A 10% Lactobionic acid‐containing moisturizer reduces skin surface pH without irritation—An in vivo/in vitro study

Influence of Lactobionic Acid on Hydration and Elasticity Parameters in Women Aged 30-40 and 50-60 Years in Comparison to Mandelic Acid

Background/Objectives: Mandelic acid as a chemical peel has been used in cosmetology for years and is being gradually exchanged for lactobionic acid. However, in the cosmetology literature, there is no information on the effectiveness of the aforementioned peels in terms of hydration and elasticity for women's facial skin depending on their age. The effects of lactobionic and mandelic acid on the skin of women aged 30-40 and 50-60 years are assessed in terms of their moisturizing and elasticizing effects. Methods: The participants of this study were 180 women aged 30-40 and 50-60 years. The selection of the group was random. Contraindications to the examination were excluded in all participants. The level of hydration was assessed using Tewameter and the level of elasticity using a cutometric probe (Courage-Khazaka Multi Test Skin Center MC 1000, Kőln, Germany). The participants also used a moisturizer. Moreover, a series of five exfoliating treatments using 40% mandelic acid or 40% lactobionic acid were performed in 120 of the participants. After 14 days since the last treatment, the assessment of their facial skin's hydration and elasticity was performed yet again. Results: In the case of women aged 30-40 years, the level of hydration and elasticity increased after using lactobionic and mandelic acid, as well as a moisturizer. In the group of older women aged 50-60 years, the level of elasticity increased after using both acids and moisturizer, but the hydration parameter increased only after the usage of lactobionic acid and moisturizer. Conclusions: In terms of age, lactobionic acid will be more suitable for people aged 50-60, while for women aged 30-40, lactobionic or mandelic acid can be used.

1927nm fractional thulium fiber laser combined with 30% salicylic acid for the treatment of acne and acne scars: A prospective, randomized, and split-face study

OBJECTIVES

Patients with acne usually develops acne scars subsequently, early intervention of scars is crucial in acne management. 1927nm fractional thulium fiber laser (TFL) is effective in scars improvement and chemical peels with 30% supramolecular salicylic acid (SSA) can be applied for the treatment of acne. The purpose of this study is to evaluate and compare the efficacy and safety of TFL monotherapy versus the concomitant application of TFL and 30% SSA on acne and acne scars.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Thirty-three patients with acne and acne scars were enrolled, and two sides of the face were randomly divided to receive either TFL and SSA chemical peeling or TFL. Four sessions of TFL treatments were applied with 4-week intervals for both sides, SSA combined treatment side received eight SSA chemical peels with 2-week intervals additionally. GAGS, ECCA score, the number of acne lesions, melanin index (MI) and erythema index (EI), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and side effects were recorded at Weeks 0, 4, 8, 12, and 18. Satisfaction of patients was recorded on both sides at the end of the study.

RESULTS

Thirty patients completed the study. Both control group (TFL monotherapy) and SSA group (TFL combined with SSA chemical peeling) significantly improved GAGS and ECCA score. SSA group showed higher efficacy in terms of GAGS and ECCA score, acne lesion count, TEWL, MI, EI, and satisfaction than control group. All the side effects were temporary and tolerable, no adverse effects were observed.

CONCLUSIONS

Both TFL and the TFL combined with 30% SSA chemical peeling are safe and effective for the treatment and prevention of acne and acne scars, though the combined group has higher efficacy.

Split-face evaluation: Gluconolactone plus oxybrasion versus gluconolactone plus microneedling. The effects on skin parameters

BACKGROUND

The application of polyhydroxy acids and alpha-hydroxy acids to the skin is often used in cosmetology. To enhance the effect of gluconolactone chemical peeling, a combined method including water-oxygen oxybrasion or microneedle mesotherapy can be used.

OBJECTIVES

To evaluate skin parameters such as hydration, sebum, pH and TEWL after application of a 10% gluconolactone chemical peel in combination with oxybrasion and microneedling.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Twenty-one Caucasian women participated in the study. A series of three split face treatments was carried out at 1-week intervals. Oxybrasion was performed on the right side of the face and micro-needle mesotherapy on the left side. A 10% gluconolactone solution was applied to the entire face. Before the first and third treatments and 2 weeks after the last treatment, skin parameters were evaluated. Photographic documentation was also made before and after the treatment series.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSION

Evaluation of skin parameters using Courage & Khazaka 580 Multi Probe Adapter probes (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany) showed an increase in hydration and a decrease in sebum, pH and TEWL for both treatments. There were no statistically significant differences between the treatments. Combining chemical peeling of gluconolactone with oxybrasion and microneedle mesotherapy is a good method to seal the hydrolipid barrier and increase skin hydration.

Standardized wild apple fruit extract as a bioactive agent in dermocosmetic products for efficacy skin hydration - in vitro and in vivo evaluation

BACKGROUND

Wild apple fruit are rich source of bioactive substances, which can be potentially used for a production of dermocosmetic products.

AIM

The aim of study was in vitro and in vivo investigation of standardized wild apple fruit extracts (obtained by purified water and maceration-EM, percolation-EP, Soxhlet extraction-ES and ultrasonic extraction-EU) and dermocosmetic creams of o/w type containing 6%, 12% and 15% of extract-EU, as extract with the best content of polyphenolic compounds (CE6, CE12, CE15, respectively), in order to determine the optimal concentration of the extract, which manifests the best effect on the biophysical characteristics of the skin after application.

METHODS

Content of polyphenolic substances-PP was investigated using HPLC analysis, while in vitro biological activity was examined on L929 fibroblasts using MTT viability test. In vivo efficacy included screening and comparation of skin hydration potential, transepidermal water loss-TEWL and skin pH after 28 days of creams application on healthy volunteers' skin.

RESULTS

Content of identified PP was the highest in the extract-EU (2001.57±0.87 mgPP/100gEU) and satisfactory in cream-CE6 (53.83±0.23 mgPP/100gCE6). Procyanidin B2 was the most common PP. Biological activity analysis showed that extract-EU could be considered as non-cytotoxic for fibroblasts in examined concentrations. In vivo investigation revealed an increase of skin hydration (after 28 days ΔEC was 21.19±7.59, 26.71±7.94 and 29.60±10.95 for CE6, CE12 and CE15, respectively), with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values.

CONCLUSION

Obtained results indicate that wild apple fruit extract represents a valuable source of bioactive substances, with good hydration effects of creams on human skin (effect of creams increased proportionally to the increase of concentration of incorporated extract), so it might be considered as a great potential for application in dermocosmetic industry.

Towards Optimal pH of the Skin and Topical Formulations: From the Current State of the Art to Tailored Products

Acidic pH of the skin surface has been recognized as a regulating factor for the maintenance of the stratum corneum homeostasis and barrier permeability. The most important functions of acidic pH seem to be related to the keratinocyte differentiation process, the formation and function of epidermal lipids and the corneocyte lipid envelope, the maintenance of the skin microbiome and, consequently, skin disturbances and diseases. As acknowledged extrinsic factors that affect skin pH, topically applied products could contribute to skin health maintenance via skin pH value control. The obtained knowledge on skins’ pH could be used in the formulation of more effective topical products, which would add to the development of the so-called products ‘for skin health maintenance’. There is a high level of agreement that topical products should be acidified and possess pH in the range of 4 to 6. However, formulators, dermatologists and consumers would benefit from some more precise guidance concerning favorable products pH values and the selection of cosmetic ingredients which could be responsible for acidification, together with a more extensive understanding of the mechanisms underlaying the process of skin acidification by topical products.

Comparison of novel aluminium lactate versus aluminium chloride-based antiperspirant in excessive axillary perspiration: First prospective cohort study

Aluminium chloride-based antiperspirants are an effective topical therapeutic option for mild to moderate states of excessive perspiration. Its use is primarily limited by the occurrence of skin irritation, especially in sensitive skin types. The objective of this study was to compare the antiperspirant efficacy and tolerability of a novel antiperspirant with 12.5% aluminium lactate, and a 12.5% aluminium chloride-based antiperspirant. This cohort study was conducted as a two-sided self-assessment comparison between both preparations in healthy volunteers to generate selfcare-related data. Almost half of the participants stated that aluminium chloride was more efficacious than aluminium lactate; 22% stated aluminium lactate was more efficacious than aluminium chloride; 28% observed no difference in the efficacy of both preparations (p = 0.04). However, 88% described greater tolerability with aluminium lactate (p < 0.0001). In this study, aluminium lactate showed significantly greater tolerability than aluminium chloride, although the latter tended to show slightly greater efficacy.

Formulation of topical acidic products and acidification of the skin - Contribution of glycolic acid

OBJECTIVE

The acidic skin pH is one of the regulating factors of skin barrier homeostasis. Topical products as extrinsic factors which influence skin pH could be used for acidification of the skin and consequent beneficial effect. To formulate stabile and safe topical emulsion product with low pH is on-going challenge and areas interesting to explore are related to the effect of acidic products on the skin pH together with development of protocols for these studies. Aim of our work was to investigate formulations of acidic topical products with glycolic acid (GA) stabilized with long chain alkyl polyglucoside emulsifier, in regard to the specific colloidal structure of the vehicle, together with effect of products with different concentration of acidic active on skin pH.

METHODS

Investigated formulations were basic vehicle and two creams with glycolic acid (concentration 2 and 10 wt%). Microstructure was investigated by polarization microscopy, Raman spectral imaging, thermal analysis and rheological measurements. Effects on the skin were assessed by measurement of biophysical skin parameters in vivo studies (5-hour, 24-hour and 7-days). In vitro screening of antimicrobial activity was performed against bacteria Staphylococcus epidermidis.

RESULTS

Polarization micrographs and Raman images have shown that GA does not disturb the specific colloidal structure. Together with rheological and thermal analysis obtained results have shown that GA in higher concentrations contributes to vehicles' lamellar structure. In 5-hour study the mean values of skin pH ranged from 3.98-4.25 and 3.89-4.10 after application of products with smaller and higher GA concentration. GA samples lowered skin surface pH to 5 and less in 24-hour and 7-day study, with stronger effect of sample with more GA. Sample with 10% of GA had significant inhibitory effect on growth of S. epidermidis in 1:1 concentration.

CONCLUSIONS

Investigated APG emulsifier could be used as a stabilizer for acidic topical products with GA which are characterized by satisfactory safety profile. Topical products induce acidification of the skin after short- and long-term application without barrier impairment or sign of irritation. Acidification of the skin depends on presence of ingredients which are proton donors and their concentrations.