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Tomas M, Günal-Köroğlu D, Kamiloglu S, Ozdal T, Capanoglu E. The state of the art in anti-aging: plant-based phytochemicals for skin care. Immun Ageing 2025; 22:5. [PMID: 39891253 PMCID: PMC11783858 DOI: 10.1186/s12979-025-00498-9] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/23/2024] [Accepted: 01/06/2025] [Indexed: 02/03/2025]
Abstract
Phytochemicals help mitigate skin aging by scavenging free radicals, modulating key enzymatic pathways, and promoting the skin's structural integrity. Carotenoids, vitamins, essential fatty acids, and phenolic compounds work by acting as antioxidants, inhibiting enzymes like hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase, which degrade skin structure, and reducing levels of inflammatory markers (IL-6, IL-8, etc.) and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-2) linked to aging. Recent research highlights that plant-based phytochemicals can improve skin elasticity, reduce hyperpigmentation, prevent the breakdown of important skin proteins, and support wound healing, making them valuable components for skin care and treatments. This review explores the multifaceted roles of phytochemicals in maintaining and improving skin health, highlighting their mechanisms of action and potential in skin anti-aging innovations.
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Affiliation(s)
- Merve Tomas
- Department of Food Engineering, Faculty of Chemical and Metallurgical Engineering, Istanbul Technical University, 34469, Maslak, Istanbul, Türkiye
| | - Deniz Günal-Köroğlu
- Department of Food Engineering, Faculty of Chemical and Metallurgical Engineering, Istanbul Technical University, 34469, Maslak, Istanbul, Türkiye
| | - Senem Kamiloglu
- Department of Food Engineering, Faculty of Agriculture, Bursa Uludag University, 16059, Gorukle, Bursa, Türkiye
- Science and Technology Application and Research Center (BITUAM), Bursa Uludag University, 16059, Gorukle, Bursa, Türkiye
| | - Tugba Ozdal
- Department of Food Engineering, Faculty of Engineering and Natural Sciences, Istanbul Okan University, 34959, Tuzla, Istanbul, Türkiye
| | - Esra Capanoglu
- Department of Food Engineering, Faculty of Chemical and Metallurgical Engineering, Istanbul Technical University, 34469, Maslak, Istanbul, Türkiye.
- School of Food and Biological Engineering, Jiangsu University, Zhenjiang, 212013, China.
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Guerra LO, Cortinoz JR, Vasques LI, Leonardi GR. Methods for skin image analysis and their applications in dermatology and cosmetic research: a comprehensive review. Ital J Dermatol Venerol 2024; 159:146-160. [PMID: 38376503 DOI: 10.23736/s2784-8671.23.07704-6] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 02/21/2024]
Abstract
INTRODUCTION In recent years, several non-invasive imaging methods have been introduced to facilitate studies in dermatology and cosmetic research, almost completely replacing invasive methods such as biopsy. Imaging devices have proven to be useful tools in skin analysis and therapy monitoring. This review aimed to investigate the most recent studies in cosmetic dermatology the imaging technology and methods that are being used to assess skin characteristics and summarize its fundamentals, possible applications, advantages, and limitations, and to give a future perspective to the clinical trials. EVIDENCE ACQUISITION For that, a literature review was carried out in the main scientific database platforms and the studies associating skin image analysis with dermatology and cosmetic research were selected and discussed. EVIDENCE SYNTHESIS It was possible to infer that skin image analyses are not only practical and effective, but have also become increasingly essential for the skin sciences. The in vivo and real-time image analyses allow a more complete evaluation and the follow-up of the same region for different periods. It was also possible to observe that macroscopic, microscopic, and mesoscopic imaging methods are complementary, allowing different approaches in the same study. CONCLUSIONS These technologies are expected to evolve more and more quickly in the near future.
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Affiliation(s)
- Lucas O Guerra
- Faculty of Medical Sciences, University of Campinas, Campinas, São Paulo, Brazil
- ALS Life Sciences-Allergisa Pesquisa Dermato-Cosmética Ltda, São Paulo, Brazil
| | - Janaina R Cortinoz
- ALS Life Sciences-Allergisa Pesquisa Dermato-Cosmética Ltda, São Paulo, Brazil
| | - Louise I Vasques
- Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Campinas, Campinas, São Paulo, Brazil -
| | - Gislaine R Leonardi
- Faculty of Medical Sciences, University of Campinas, Campinas, São Paulo, Brazil
- Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of Campinas, Campinas, São Paulo, Brazil
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Wang B, Li S, Long X, Liu Z, Yu N, Wang X. Re-recognition of the role of roughness in keloid assessment. Burns 2024; 50:204-211. [PMID: 37945507 DOI: 10.1016/j.burns.2023.09.016] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/13/2023] [Revised: 09/03/2023] [Accepted: 09/26/2023] [Indexed: 11/12/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Under visual observation, keloids are more rough than normal skin. This roughness may be used to assess the activity and severity of keloids but lacks the support of objective and accurate evidence. The purpose of this study was to verify the role of roughness in the development of keloids and to clarify the advantage of roughness in the comprehensive assessment of keloids. METHODS Patients with keloids who attended Peking Union Medical College Hospital were recruited. Keloids were classified into progressive, stable, and atrophic stages based on the change in size over the past year and blood perfusion. The keloids were evaluated using the Vancouver Scar Scale (VSS) and the Patient and Observer Scar Assessment Scale (POSAS). The roughnesses of the keloid and normal skin were measured using the Phaseshift Rapid In vivo Measurement Of the Skin (PRIMOS), and blood perfusion was measured using laser speckle contrast imaging (LSCI). RESULTS Thirty-three patients with a total of 81 keloids were included. The surface roughness values Sa, Sq, and Sz of the keloid region were 243.70 (143.85-328.05), 316.20 (179.85-475.20), and 1708.20 (1098.30-4087.20), respectively, which were 4.87, 4.80, and 3.08 times higher than those of normal skin. There were significant differences in roughness among the different keloid stages. A significantly strong correlation between roughness and other assessed indices was found. CONCLUSIONS Roughness as a morphological characteristic is of great value in the evaluation of keloids. It is recommended as an important examination for keloids.
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Affiliation(s)
- Binghan Wang
- Department of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, Peking Union Medical College Hospital, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences & Peking Union Medical College, Beijing, China; 4+4 Medical Doctor Program, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences & Peking Union Medical College, China
| | - Shuo Li
- Department of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, Peking Union Medical College Hospital, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences & Peking Union Medical College, Beijing, China
| | - Xiao Long
- Department of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, Peking Union Medical College Hospital, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences & Peking Union Medical College, Beijing, China
| | - Zhifei Liu
- Department of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, Peking Union Medical College Hospital, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences & Peking Union Medical College, Beijing, China
| | - Nanze Yu
- Department of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, Peking Union Medical College Hospital, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences & Peking Union Medical College, Beijing, China.
| | - Xiaojun Wang
- Department of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, Peking Union Medical College Hospital, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences & Peking Union Medical College, Beijing, China.
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Jaros-Sajda A, Budzisz E, Erkiert-Polguj A. Ascorbic Acid Treatments as Effective and Safe Anti-Aging Therapies for Sensitive Skin. Antioxidants (Basel) 2024; 13:174. [PMID: 38397772 PMCID: PMC10885991 DOI: 10.3390/antiox13020174] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/13/2023] [Revised: 01/20/2024] [Accepted: 01/27/2024] [Indexed: 02/25/2024] Open
Abstract
The most common signs of aging skin include a decrease in firmness and density, uneven skin tone, and a tendency to erythema. There is an ever-increasing interest in aesthetic treatments that maintain the skin's favorable appearance. However, such therapies are difficult in the case of sensitive skin, defined as a set of stimuli-triggered symptoms (stinging, erythema, burning, and itching) that would not appear in healthy skin. Sensitive skin is common and affects, to varying degrees, about half of the European population. This study was aimed at evaluating the effects of ascorbic acid-a known antioxidant-applied with sonophoresis and microneedling on the signs of photoaging in reactive and erythematous skin. A significant improvement in skin elasticity was observed after a series of tests. A significant reduction in erythema was observed after both therapies. The greatest reduction was observed on the cheeks after applying vitamin C combined with microneedling. At the same time, the results showed an excellent tolerance of both treatments, which proved them to be safe and effective.
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Affiliation(s)
- Anna Jaros-Sajda
- Department of Cosmetic Raw Materials Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University of Lodz, 90-419 Lodz, Poland (E.B.)
| | - Elzbieta Budzisz
- Department of Cosmetic Raw Materials Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University of Lodz, 90-419 Lodz, Poland (E.B.)
| | - Anna Erkiert-Polguj
- Department of Cosmetology and Aesthetic Dermatology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University of Lodz, 90-419 Lodz, Poland
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Li F, Chen H, Chen D, Zhang B, Shi Q, He X, Zhao H, Wang F. Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new multi-peptide anti-aging topical eye serum. J Cosmet Dermatol 2023; 22:3340-3346. [PMID: 37335808 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.15849] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/01/2023] [Revised: 05/17/2023] [Accepted: 05/19/2023] [Indexed: 06/21/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Skin aging is a complex multifactorial progressive process. With age, intrinsic and extrinsic factors cause the loss of skin elasticity, with the formation of wrinkles, resulting in skin sagging through various pathways. A combination of multiple bioactive peptides could be used as a treatment for skin wrinkles and sagging. OBJECTIVES This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic efficacy of a multi-peptide eye serum as a daily skin-care product for improving the periocular skin of women within the ages of 20-45 years. METHODS The stratum corneum skin hydration and skin elasticity were assessed using a Corneometer CM825 and Skin Elastometer MPA580, respectively. The PRIMOS CR technique based on digital strip projection technology was used for skin image and wrinkle analysis around the "crow's feet" area. Self-assessment questionnaires were filled on Day 14 and 28 of product use. RESULTS This study included 32 subjects with an average age of 28.5 years. On Day 28, there was a significant decrease in the number, depth, and volume of wrinkles. Skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness increased continuously during the study period, consistent with typical anti-aging claims. A majority of the participants (75.00%) expressed overall satisfaction with their skin appearance after using the product. Most participants noted a visible skin improvement, with an increase in skin elasticity and smoothness, and confirmed the extensibility, applicability, and temperance of the product. No adverse reactions related to product use were observed. CONCLUSIONS The multi-peptide eye serum uses a multi-targeted mechanism against skin aging to improve the skin appearance, making it an ideal choice for daily skincare.
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Affiliation(s)
- Fengzhu Li
- College of Biotechnology, Tianjin University of Science and Technology, Tianjin, China
| | - Haowei Chen
- Dingmageili Biotechnology Ltd., Beijing, China
| | - Dongxiao Chen
- College of Biotechnology, Tianjin University of Science and Technology, Tianjin, China
| | - Bingjie Zhang
- College of Biotechnology, Tianjin University of Science and Technology, Tianjin, China
| | - Qingying Shi
- College of Biotechnology, Tianjin University of Science and Technology, Tianjin, China
| | - Xihong He
- College of Biotechnology, Tianjin University of Science and Technology, Tianjin, China
- Key Laboratory of Industrial Fermentation Microbiology, Ministry of Education, Tianjin University of Science and Technology, Tianjin, China
| | - Huabing Zhao
- College of Biotechnology, Tianjin University of Science and Technology, Tianjin, China
- Key Laboratory of Industrial Fermentation Microbiology, Ministry of Education, Tianjin University of Science and Technology, Tianjin, China
| | - Fang Wang
- Dingmageili Biotechnology Ltd., Beijing, China
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Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies. Antioxidants (Basel) 2022; 11:antiox11091663. [PMID: 36139737 PMCID: PMC9495646 DOI: 10.3390/antiox11091663] [Citation(s) in RCA: 38] [Impact Index Per Article: 12.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/27/2022] [Revised: 08/15/2022] [Accepted: 08/23/2022] [Indexed: 11/16/2022] Open
Abstract
Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.
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Oluwole DO, Coleman L, Buchanan W, Chen T, La Ragione RM, Liu LX. Antibiotics-Free Compounds for Chronic Wound Healing. Pharmaceutics 2022; 14:pharmaceutics14051021. [PMID: 35631606 PMCID: PMC9143489 DOI: 10.3390/pharmaceutics14051021] [Citation(s) in RCA: 8] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/12/2022] [Revised: 04/04/2022] [Accepted: 05/05/2022] [Indexed: 02/05/2023] Open
Abstract
The rapid rise in the health burden associated with chronic wounds is of great concern to policymakers, academia, and industry. This could be attributed to the devastating implications of this condition, and specifically, chronic wounds which have been linked to invasive microbial infections affecting patients' quality of life. Unfortunately, antibiotics are not always helpful due to their poor penetration of bacterial biofilms and the emergence of antimicrobial resistance. Hence, there is an urgent need to explore antibiotics-free compounds/formulations with proven or potential antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing efficacy. The mechanism of antibiotics-free compounds is thought to include the disruption of the bacteria cell structure, preventing cell division, membrane porins, motility, and the formation of a biofilm. Furthermore, some of these compounds foster tissue regeneration by modulating growth factor expression. In this review article, the focus is placed on a number of non-antibiotic compounds possessing some of the aforementioned pharmacological and physiological activities. Specific interest is given to Aloevera, curcumin, cinnamaldehyde, polyhexanide, retinoids, ascorbate, tocochromanols, and chitosan. These compounds (when alone or in formulation with other biologically active molecules) could be a dependable alternative in the management or prevention of chronic wounds.
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Affiliation(s)
- David O. Oluwole
- Chemical and Process Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering and Physical Science, University of Surrey, Guildford GU2 7XH, UK; (L.C.); (T.C.)
- Correspondence: (D.O.O.); (L.X.L.)
| | - Lucy Coleman
- Chemical and Process Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering and Physical Science, University of Surrey, Guildford GU2 7XH, UK; (L.C.); (T.C.)
| | | | - Tao Chen
- Chemical and Process Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering and Physical Science, University of Surrey, Guildford GU2 7XH, UK; (L.C.); (T.C.)
| | - Roberto M. La Ragione
- School of Biosciences and Medicine, Faculty of Health and Medical Sciences, University of Surrey, Guildford GU2 7XH, UK;
- School of Veterinary Medicine, Faculty of Health and Medical Sciences, University of Surrey, Guildford GU2 7AL, UK
| | - Lian X. Liu
- Chemical and Process Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering and Physical Science, University of Surrey, Guildford GU2 7XH, UK; (L.C.); (T.C.)
- Correspondence: (D.O.O.); (L.X.L.)
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Lintner K, Gerstein F, Solish N. A serum containing vitamins C & E and a matrix-repair tripeptide reduces facial signs of aging as evidenced by Primos® analysis and frequently repeated auto-perception. J Cosmet Dermatol 2020; 19:3262-3269. [PMID: 33103342 PMCID: PMC7756752 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.13770] [Citation(s) in RCA: 7] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/30/2020] [Revised: 09/17/2020] [Accepted: 10/01/2020] [Indexed: 01/09/2023]
Abstract
Background Allegations on the benefits of incorporating vitamin C, vitamin E, and combinations thereof in topical skincare formulations are mostly based on in vitro and ex vivo experiments and/or limited protocols of specific stress conditions (pollution, UV exposure, laser irradiation,…). Objective To evaluate the instrumentally measurable effects and quantitative consumer perceptions of a protective and reparative serum on a panel of volunteers under normal nonstressed conditions of use, employing FOITS technology and innovative self‐assessment methods. Method In an open‐label study women of ≥40 years with visible signs of photoaging applied a serum comprising l‐ascorbic acid USP (15% w/v), tocopheryl acetate USP, and 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38 to the face once daily for 56 days. Skin roughness and isotropy changes were evaluated on days 0, 28, and 56, visual instrumental evaluation of skin‐tone parameters was assessed on days 0 and 56. Subjects completed self‐assessment questionnaires every third day of the trial period for radiance, homogeneity, and wrinkle appearance. Results Skin‐roughness parameters decreased significantly by 8%‐9% (P < .05) and subjects experienced a significant increase in skin isotropy (P < .05). Photographic analysis revealed significant improvements in skin tone, with a 9% decrease in redness and 8% increase in homogeneity (P < .0001 for both), in excellent agreement with subjects' perception of significant improvements of radiance, complexion, and wrinkles. Conclusion The study confirms statistically significant correlation between objectively measured and quantitative subjectively perceived benefits of the bespoke serum containing antioxidants and a matrix‐restoring peptide.
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