An open-label, investigator-initiated, single-center, prospective, pilot clinical study to evaluate the efficacy of a skin whitening serum applied twice daily combined with a spot-preventing SPF50+ sunscreen in healthy female subjects with melasma hyperpigmentation

A Scoping Review on Melasma Treatments and Their Histopathologic Correlates

Melasma is an incredibly common dyschromic disorder, mostly impacting women with skin of color. There are three variants of melasma based on the depth of pathologic involvement: epidermal, mixed, and dermal. While there are many treatments for melasma, there is a paucity of research on melasma treatments and their dermatopathological correlates. A scoping review was conducted of all human trials on melasma with histopathologic analysis, including 37 trials in the final analysis. Most studies were conducted on women with a Fitzpatrick skin type of III or greater. Strong histologic evidence supports the utilization of retinols/retinoids for epidermal melasma and microneedling for dermal melasma. There is a paucity of trials conducted on melasma utilizing histologic correlates, and fewer still that are comprehensive to include analyses on quality of life.

Applications of reflectance confocal microscopy in photoaging and aesthetic conditions: skin characterization and treatment monitoring

Reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) is an in-vivo, non-invasive imaging modality that provides a high-resolution image of the epidermis and upper dermis. RCM has been utilized as a diagnostic aid for several inflammatory, infectious, and malignant skin conditions; however, its use for clinical and aesthetic skin purposes has not been well established. The purpose of this review is to describe the landscape of RCM utilization for the application of aesthetic skin conditions. A comprehensive literature search was conducted using PubMed using the search terms "reflectance confocal microscopy cosmetic", and "reflectance confocal microscopy aesthetic". The search was limited to clinical and animal studies published in English in the last 10 years. RCM must have been utilized to measure an aesthetic dermatological outcome to be eligible for the review. After data abstraction, a total of 46 studies that met the inclusion criteria were identified. The most common utilization of RCM for cosmetic conditions included treatment monitoring and skin morphologic characterization. The primary skin conditions evaluated included skin aging, pigmentation, skin dryness, irritated, and sensitive skin related conditions. Treatment monitoring was primarily conducted for topical agents for skin hydration, skin UV protection, acne, skin dryness, and skin pigmentation purposes. Identification of histo-structural correlations with aesthetic skin conditions may pave the way for future aesthetic drug development. As the popularity of cosmetic dermatologic procedures continues to increase, utilization of RCM for skin characterization and treatment monitoring may be beneficial.

Potential of Encapsulated Bovine Colostrum in Powder-Based Formulations for Facial Clay, Peel-Off Gel, and Sleeping Gel Masks

Bovine colostrum is a bioactive compound with potential in cosmetic applications but has a limited shelf life. This study aimed to develop an effective encapsulation system for bovine colostrum using the complex coacervation method and incorporate it into powder formulations for facial masks. The research explored various gelatin-to-gum Arabic ratios to optimize the physical and chemical stability, encapsulation efficiency, and loading capacity of the encapsulated bovine colostrum (EBC). The EBC was further incorporated into powder formulations for clay masks, peel-off gel masks, and sleeping gel masks. The optimal gelatin-to-gum Arabic ratio was found to be 2:1, yielding the highest entrapment efficiency (66.6 ± 3.3% w/w) and loading capacity (67.6 ± 3.4% w/w) of bovine colostrum. For clay masks, the most effective powder blend incorporating EBC enhanced the moisture content, water solubility, and hygroscopicity, without affecting the drying time (9.7 ± 0.6 min). Additionally, peel-off gel masks incorporating EBC significantly reduced water activity and improved moisture content and hygroscopicity, while the drying time decreased from 44.3 ± 0.6 to 25.0 ± 1.7 min. For sleeping gel masks, the formulation with EBC increased water activity, while other parameters remained stable. In conclusion, the EBC with enhanced stability was effectively integrated into various powders for facial mask formulations.

Determination of 4-n-butylresorcinol by fluorescence derivatization based on dopamine

4-n-butylresorcinol (4nBR) is a frequently utilized as whitening ingredients in skincare cosmetics. Compared with other whitening ingredients, it can effectively inhibit tyrosinase with lower toxicity and superior inhibition efficacy. Under alkaline conditions, an induced oxidative coupling reaction can occur between 4nBR and dopamine (DA) to generate strong fluorescent substance azamonardine with an intense emission band centering at 476 nm when excited at 440 nm. This phenomenon can be used to establish a fluorescence analysis method for 4nBR. The results indicated that the linear range of the method was 1.0-24.0 nmol L-1, and the detection limit was as low as 0.25 nmol L-1. The method showed high sensitivity, good selectivity, mild experimental conditions and low cost. The proposed method was successfully used to detect 4nBR in cosmetics, and the results were consistent with those of HPLC. The spiking recoveries were between 98.2% and 108 %.

Melasma and reflectance confocal microscopy: from baseline to treatment monitoring

Melasma is a frequent condition worldwide, and it represents one of the most challenging disorders to treat in cosmetic dermatology. One of the critical factors for treatment prognosis is the assessment of the depth and distribution of pigment within the hyperpigmented area. Nowadays, non-invasive skin imaging techniques, such as reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM), have been used to estimate pigment distribution and depth within different skin layers. This article aims to provide a systematic review of RCM applications in melasma, providing terminology and investigating characteristics of melasma at baseline and after medical and laser treatment. Our results support the recognition of two main types of melasma, epidermal and mixed type, thanks to the role of RCM in highlighting the precise pigment depth location in the skin non-invasively. RCM treatment monitoring enables the objectification of pigment variations after treatment and the identification of prognostic factors for different treatment modalities. After the era of the application of RCM as a technique applied strictly to skin cancers, additional cosmetic applications are emerging, such as the application of melasma treatment monitoring.

Methods for skin image analysis and their applications in dermatology and cosmetic research: a comprehensive review

INTRODUCTION

In recent years, several non-invasive imaging methods have been introduced to facilitate studies in dermatology and cosmetic research, almost completely replacing invasive methods such as biopsy. Imaging devices have proven to be useful tools in skin analysis and therapy monitoring. This review aimed to investigate the most recent studies in cosmetic dermatology the imaging technology and methods that are being used to assess skin characteristics and summarize its fundamentals, possible applications, advantages, and limitations, and to give a future perspective to the clinical trials.

EVIDENCE ACQUISITION

For that, a literature review was carried out in the main scientific database platforms and the studies associating skin image analysis with dermatology and cosmetic research were selected and discussed.

EVIDENCE SYNTHESIS

It was possible to infer that skin image analyses are not only practical and effective, but have also become increasingly essential for the skin sciences. The in vivo and real-time image analyses allow a more complete evaluation and the follow-up of the same region for different periods. It was also possible to observe that macroscopic, microscopic, and mesoscopic imaging methods are complementary, allowing different approaches in the same study.

CONCLUSIONS

These technologies are expected to evolve more and more quickly in the near future.

The effectiveness of tomato extract on superoxide dismutase (SOD) and severity degree of patients with melasma

BACKGROUND

Melasma is present in 40% of cases in Southeast Asia. The condition is often unresponsive to therapy; treatment has variable success rates, and melasma has high recurrence rates. Lycopene-rich tomato extract is needed to avoid oxidative stress due to ultraviolet rays that cause melasma through the melanogenesis pathway. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of an oral tomato extract supplement as an adjuvant for melasma therapy.

METHODS

The study recruited 62 subjects with melasma to a true-experimental clinic with a double-blind, randomized, pre and post-test control design over 12 weeks at the Diponegoro National Hospital, Indonesia. The subjects received an oral tomato extract supplement contains lycopene 30 mg (placebo). All subjects applied topical sunscreen and hydroquinone-4%-cream. Subjects were assessed by superoxide dismutase (SOD) and melasma area and severity index (MASI).

RESULTS

Fifty-nine patients completed the research. The serum SOD levels in the treatment group (tomato extract supplementation) were higher than in the control group given the placebo, with delta SOD (P<0.05). The difference in MASI Scores after therapy in the treatment group had a significant decrease compared to the control group, with statistical review results suggesting that the difference was significant (P<0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

Supplementation of tomato extract as an adjuvant therapy can increase serum SOD levels and improve melasma severity.

Skin Depigmenting Agents in Anti-Aging Cosmetics: A Medicinal Perspective on Emerging Ingredients

Human skin aging results from intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Uneven pigmentation is one of the major changes of extrinsic aging. Many compounds have been tested for depigmenting activity but only a few are actually used by the cosmetic industry, which is continually looking for new ingredients. In this study, the trends in the use of skin depigmenting ingredients in a panel of anti-aging formulations commercialized in the Portuguese pharmacy market were analyzed, by comparing the composition of the products marketed in 2011 with products launched or reformulated in 2018 (59% and 74%, respectively). The analysis of the top 12 ingredients put forward three novelties for 2018: tranexamic acid, bakuchiol, and 4-butylresorcinol. Regarding their mechanisms of action, tranexamic acid inhibits melanin synthesis through inhibition of the plasminogen/plasmin system. Bakuchiol depigmenting efficacy was attributed to the ability to block both α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and tyrosinase activation, while 4-butylresorcinol exerts its action through the inhibition of both tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1). Industry-optimized and efficient synthetic methodologies that embrace green chemistry, reducing the environmental impact, are commonly used. This analysis aims to bring insights to both formulators, involved in the development of depigmenting cosmetic products, and chemists performing the synthesis of new and existing compounds intended for this purpose.