Use of alpha-tocopherol esters for topical vitamin E treatment: evaluation of their skin permeation and metabolism

Tocopherol succinate-loaded ethosomal gel synthesized by cold method technique: Deeper biophysical characterizations for translational application on human skin

BACKGROUND

Tocopherols are well-known antioxidant and moisturizing agent. Tocopherol succinate (TS) are widely used in many skin products especially used in anti-aging and skin whitening product formulation.

AIM

We previously reported the successful synthesis and preliminary characterizations of stable TS ethosomal gels (TSEG) (DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14907). Herein, we develop and further characterize TSEG to enhance the stability of the developed formulation with increased permeation through skin.

METHODS

Cold method technique was used to prepare TS ethosomes. The developed ethosomal vesicle size was 250 nm, which allowed TS to penetrate through the stratum corneum layer and act on melanocytes. For stability study was assessed by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) by placing TSEG and unloaded/control ethosomal gel (CEG) at various temperature conditions, that is, 8°C, 25°C, 40°C, and 40°C ± 75% RH for 3 months. Organoleptic evaluation was done in terms of color, odor, and phase separation. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM), Fourier Transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), x-ray diffraction spectroscopy (XRD), zeta potential (ZP) and particle size (PS) was used for TSEG physical characterizations. In vitro dissolution and ex-vivo permeation studies (using Franz diffusion cell) were performed for both TSEG and CEG formulations. Human women (N = 34) were used to evaluate in vivo biophysical parameters including erythema, melanin, moisture content, sebum level, and skin elasticity.

RESULTS

Developed formulation was highly thermostable during the 3 months. Erythema, melanin, and sebum level decreased while marked improvement (p < 0.05) in moisture content and elasticity have been observed for the developed TSEG.

CONCLUSION

The developed TSEG formulation was found to be efficient, safe (no adverse effects observed), stable (at least for 3 months), and easy to use for topical application with improved skin complexation and skin integrity.

Contribution of Nanoscience Research in Antioxidants Delivery Used in Nutricosmetic Sector

Nanoscience applications in the food and cosmetic industry offer many potential benefits for consumers and society. Nanotechnologies permit the manipulation of matter at the nanoscale level, resulting in new properties and characteristics useful in food and cosmetic production, processing, packaging, and storage. Nanotechnology protects sensitive bioactive compounds, improves their bioavailability and water solubility, guarantees their release at a site of action, avoids contact with other constituents, and masks unpleasant taste. Biopolymeric nanoparticles, nanofibers, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules, and colloids are delivery systems used to produce food supplements and cosmetics. There are no barriers to nanoscience applications in food supplements and cosmetic industries, although the toxicity of nano-sized delivery systems is not clear. The physicochemical and toxicological characterization of nanoscale delivery systems used by the nutricosmeceutic industry is reviewed in this work.

In Silico Evaluation of Enzymatic Tunnels in the Biotransformation of α-Tocopherol Esters

Motivation: α-Tocopherol is a molecule obtained primarily from plant sources that are important for the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry. However, this component has some limitations such as sensitivity to oxygen, presence of light, and high temperatures. For this molecule to become more widely used, it is important to carry out a structural modification so that there is better stability and thus it can carry out its activities. To carry out this structural modification, some modifications are carried out, including the application of biotransformation using enzymes as biocatalysts. Thus, the application of a computational tool that helps in understanding the transport mechanisms of molecules in the tunnels present in the enzymatic structures is of fundamental importance because it promotes a computational screening facilitating bench applications.

Objective: The aim of this work was to perform a computational analysis of the biotransformation of α-tocopherol into tocopherol esters, observing the tunnels present in the enzymatic structures as well as the energies which correspond to the transport of molecules.

Method: To carry out this work, 9 lipases from different organisms were selected; their structures were analyzed by identifying the tunnels (quantity, conformation, and possibility of transport) and later the calculations of substrate transport for the biotransformation reaction in the identified tunnels were carried out. Additionally, the transport of the product obtained in the reaction through the tunnels was also carried out.

Results: In this work, the quantity of existing tunnels in the morphological conformational characteristics in the lipases was verified. Thus, the enzymes with fewer tunnels were RML (3 tunnels), LBC and RNL (4 tunnels), PBLL (5 tunnels), CALB (6 tunnels), HLG (7 tunnels), and LCR and LTL (8 tunnels) and followed by the enzyme LPP with the largest number of tunnels (39 tunnels). However, the enzyme that was most likely to transport substrates in terms of α-tocopherol biotransformation (in relation to the E_max and E_a energies of ligands and products) was CALB, as it obtains conformational and transport characteristics of molecules with a particularity. The most conditions of transport analysis were α-tocopherol tunnel 3 (E_max: −4.6 kcal/mol; E_a: 1.1 kcal/mol), vinyl acetate tunnel 1 (E_max: −2.4 kcal/mol; E_a: 0.1 kcal/mol), and tocopherol acetate tunnel 2 (E_max: −3.7 kcal/mol; E_a: 2 kcal/mol).

Marine Collagen: A Promising Biomaterial for Wound Healing, Skin Anti-Aging, and Bone Regeneration

Marine organisms harbor numerous bioactive substances that can be utilized in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Scientific research on various applications of collagen extracted from these organisms has become increasingly prevalent. Marine collagen can be used as a biomaterial because it is water soluble, metabolically compatible, and highly accessible. Upon review of the literature, it is evident that marine collagen is a versatile compound capable of healing skin injuries of varying severity, as well as delaying the natural human aging process. From in vitro to in vivo experiments, collagen has demonstrated its ability to invoke keratinocyte and fibroblast migration as well as vascularization of the skin. Additionally, marine collagen and derivatives have proven beneficial and useful for both osteoporosis and osteoarthritis prevention and treatment. Other bone-related diseases may also be targeted by collagen, as it is capable of increasing bone mineral density, mineral deposition, and importantly, osteoblast maturation and proliferation. In this review, we demonstrate the advantages of marine collagen over land animal sources and the biomedical applications of marine collagen related to bone and skin damage. Finally, some limitations of marine collagen are briefly discussed.

Water-Soluble Vitamin E-Tocopheryl Phosphate

The hydrophobicity of vitamin E poses transport and metabolic challenges to regulate its bioavailability and to prevent its accumulation in lipid-rich tissues such as adipose tissue, brain, and liver. Water-soluble precursors of vitamin E (α-tocopherol, αT), such as its esters with acetate (αTA), succinate (αTS), or phosphate (αTP), have increased solubility in water and stability against reaction with free radicals, but they are rapidly converted during their uptake into the lipid-soluble vitamin E. Therefore, the bioavailability of these precursors as intact molecules is low; nevertheless, at least for αTS and αTP, the recent research has revealed unique regulatory effects on signal transduction and gene expression and the modulation of cellular events ranging from proliferation, survival/apoptosis, lipid uptake and metabolism, phagocytosis, long term potentiation, cell migration, telomere maintenance, and angiogenesis. Moreover, water-soluble derivatives of vitamin E including some based on αTP are increasingly used as components of nanocarriers for enhanced and targeted delivery of drugs and other molecules (vitamins, including αT and αTP itself, vitamin D3, carnosine, caffeine, docosahexaenoic acid (DHA), insulin) and cofactors such as coenzyme Q10. In this review, the chemical characteristics, transport, metabolic pathways, and molecular mechanisms of action of αTP in cells and tissues are summarized and put into perspective with its possible role in the prevention of a number of diseases.