Suboptimal UVA attenuation by broad spectrum sunscreens under outdoor solar conditions contributes to lifetime UVA burden

Determining the ability to differentiate results between independent sun protection factor tests using the ISO24444 method

Introduction

The sun protection factor has nowadays become a familiar metric to understand sunscreen effectiveness. This value is displayed on the label of sunscreens and it is established by translating the results obtained from standardized testing methods to regulatory labeling criteria. The ISO24444, a widely accepted method to measure the sun protection factor, is designed to determine the validity of a single test, but it lacks criteria to compare results and many regulators only endorse the method as a valid means to label sunscreens. This supposes a challenge for manufacturers and regulators routinely using the method to take decisions on product labeling when confronted with disparate results for the same product.

Methods

Analytical review of the statistical criteria used by the method to determine test validity.

Results

For the same product, results from independent tests (of 10 subjects each) separated less than ×1.73 can be considered as the same from the point of view of compliance to the standard.

Conclusion

This range of sun protection factor values far exceeds the ranges for labeling and categorizing sunscreens as per current regulations and thus opens the possibility that sunscreens are unknowingly mislabeled. These findings can be summarized in a "discriminability map" to assist comparing results from different tests and to better inform the labeling of sunscreen products and thus increase confidence to prescribers and consumers.

In vitro safety evaluation of sunscreen formulation from nanostructured lipid carriers using human cells and skin model

There is a risk of toxicological reactions due to systemic absorption and photo-instability of sunscreens. The study aimed to investigate the safety profile (cytotoxicity, phototoxicity, photostability, UV filter release profile, and skin irritation properties) of sunscreen (NLC-TRF sunscreen) produced from nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and tocotrienol-rich fraction (TRF). The cytotoxicity and phototoxicity of the sunscreen were evaluated on normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) and skin irritation properties was tested on skin model. Besides, the photoprotection in pre- and post-UV irradiation were analysed to determine the photostability. Additionally, the release profile for UV filters (diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) and ethylhexyl triazone (EHT)) were evaluated. The NLC-TRF sunscreen demonstrated no cytotoxicity and skin irritation to cause cell death. It showed no phototoxic effect and high photostability up to 10 Minimal Erythema Dose (MED) to ensure high SPF value above 50 and broad-spectrum of UV absorption. The NLC-TRF sunscreen implies its safety for topical application with sustainable release profile for UV filter (cumulative release of 28% for DHHB and 40% for EHT after 8 h) due to the application of NLCs. The results suggest that the NLC-TRF sunscreen is an advanced formulation with improved stability and is safe for topical delivery.

Laboratory testing of sunscreens on the US market finds lower in vitro SPF values than on labels and even less UVA protection

Background

New research has attributed increased significance to the causal link between ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation and immunosuppression and carcinogenesis. In the United States, sunscreens are labeled with only their sun protection factor (SPF) and an imprecise term “broad‐spectrum protection.” Sunscreen marketing and efficacy evaluations continue to be based primarily on skin redness (sunburn) or erythema. We sought to evaluate the ultraviolet (UV) protection offered by common sunscreen products on the US market using laboratory‐measured UV‐absorption testing and comparing with computer‐modeled protection and the labeled SPF values. This approach enables an investigation of the relationship between the labeled SPF and measured UVA protection, a factor that is ignored in current regulations.

Methods

Fifty‐one sunscreen products for sale in the United States with SPF values from 15 to 110 and labeled as providing broad‐spectrum protection were tested using a commercial laboratory. All products were evaluated using the ISO 24443:2012 method for sunscreen effectiveness. The final absorbance spectra were used for analysis of in vitro UV protection.

Results

In vitro SPF values from laboratory‐measured UV absorption and computer modeling were on average just 59 and 42 percent of the labeled SPF. The majority of products provided significantly lower UVA protection with the average unweighted UVA protection factor just 24 percent of the labeled SPF.

Conclusion

Regulations and marketplace forces promote sunscreens that reduce sunburn instead of products that provide better, more broad‐spectrum UV protection. The production and use of products with broad spectrum UV protection should be incentivized, removing the emphasis on sunburn protection and ending testing on people.