Histological and Immunohistochemical Evaluation of the Efficacy of a New Cosmetic Formulation in the Treatment of Skin Photoaging

Topical growth factors and home-based microneedling for facial skin rejuvenation

BACKGROUND

Cosmeceutical products are an important therapeutic option for facial rejuvenation. Of these, topical application of growth factors has been shown to increase dermal collagen synthesis, improve skin texture, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Limited data exist for the use of growth factors in combination with microneedling.

OBJECTIVE

This prospective, single-center, uncontrolled study evaluated the efficacy of topical growth factor treatment in conjunction with transdermal delivery of growth factors via home-based microneedling for facial skin rejuvenation.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Eleven healthy female individuals aged 33-61 years, with mild-moderate facial wrinkling were included in the study. Over 3 months, participants received twice-daily application of a topical recombinant human growth factor preparation (SkinGenuity^® Regenerative and Reparative Serums) along with twice-weekly transdermal delivery of growth factors using a home-based microneedling (0.2 mm) device. Objective skin analysis (VISIA^® ) and a subjective patient-reported outcome (FACE-Q^® ) assessment measuring satisfaction with appearance were performed at baseline and after 3 months.

RESULTS

Objective skin analysis showed a significant improvement in skin texture (17.6%, p < 0.001), wrinkles (17.3%, p < 0.001), red areas (12.4%, p =0.004), and brown spots (6.0%, p =0.03) at 3 months follow-up. FACE-Q scales showed a significant improvement from baseline, including satisfaction with skin, facial appearance, nasolabial folds, cheeks, and lower face/jawline (all p ≤ 0.02). Numerical improvement in adverse effects related to skin was also observed (p = 0.07). No serious adverse effects were reported.

CONCLUSIONS

Three months of twice-daily topical growth factor treatment in conjunction with transdermal delivery of growth factors via microneedling improved skin analysis parameters and participant-reported outcome measures, indicative of facial skin rejuvenation.

MicroRNA31 and MMP-1 contribute to the differentiated pathway of invasion -with enhanced epithelial-to-mesenchymal transition- in squamous cell carcinoma of the skin

Epithelial to mesenchymal transition (EMT) is an important mechanism of invasion in cutaneous squamous cell carcinomas (cSCCs) and has been found to be enhanced in tumors originated from actinic keratosis with transformation limited to the basal epithelial layer -differentiated pathway-, compared to cases with invasion subsequent to complete epidermal transformation -classical pathway-. Several microRNAs and proteins can contribute to EMT modulation in cSCCs. MicroRNA21 and microRNA31 are involved in posttranscriptional regulation of protein expression and could play a relevant role in EMT and cSCC progression. Throughout the EMT process upregulation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) enhances invasiveness and MMP-1 and MMP-3 contribute to local invasion, angiogenesis and metastasis in cSCCs. Additionally, cSCC development is associated with PTEN loss and NF-κB, NOTCH-1 and p63 activation. The aim of this work is to identify differences in the expression of those molecules between both pathways of cSCCs development. Eight tissue microarrays from 80 consecutive cSCCs were analyzed using LNA-based miRNA in situ hybridization for miRNA21 and miRNA31 evaluation, and immunohistochemistry for MMP-1, MMP-3, PTEN, NOTCH-1, NF-κB, p63 and CD31. Significantly higher expression of miRNA31 (p < 0.0001) and MMP-1 (p = 0.0072) and angiogenesis (p = 0.0199) were found in the differentiated pathway, whereas PTEN loss (p = 0.0430) was more marked in the classical pathway. No significant differences were found for the other markers. Our findings support a contribution of miRNA31 and MMP-1 in the differentiated pathway, associated to EMT and increased microvascularization. The greater PTEN loss in the classical pathway indicate that its relevance in cSCC is not EMT-related.

Synthesis of Retinol-Loaded Lipid Nanocarrier via Vacuum Emulsification to Improve Topical Skin Delivery

Retinol has been widely used as an anti-wrinkle active ingredient in cosmetic fields. However, the oxidation of retinol by air was one of the critical problems for application in the skincare field. In this study, Retinol-loaded lipid nanocarriers were prepared via the vacuum emulsification method to increase the stability of retinol vulnerable to air and optimized encapsulation conditions and to increase the penetration efficiency into skin. Optimizing the components of lipid nanocarriers, gradients of carbon chain C8-22 using various lipid species which made the amorphous structure and enough spaces to load retinol inside the capsules were estimated from the lower enthalpy change and peak shift in DSC analysis. The vacuum-assisted lipid nanocarriers (VLN) could help suppress oxidation, which could have advantages to increase the thermal stability of retinol. The retinol-loaded VLN (VLN-ROL) had narrow size distribution under 0.3 PDI value, under 200 nm scaled particle size, and fully negative surface charge of about -50 mV for the electrostatic repulsion to avoid aggregation phenomenon among the lipid nanoparticles. It maintained 90% or more retinol concentration after 4 weeks of storage at 25, 40 and 50 °C and kept stable. The VLN-ROL-containing cream showed improved penetration efficiency applied to porcine skins compared to the commercial retinol 10S from BASF. The total amount of retinol into the skin of VLN-ROL (0.1% of retinol) was enhanced by about 2.2-fold (2.86 ± 0.23 μg) higher than that in 0.1% of bare retinol (about 1.29 ± 0.09 μg). In addition, applied on a 3D Human skin model, the epidermal thickness and the relative percentage of dermal collagen area effectively increased compared to the control and retinol, respectively. Additionally, the level of secreted IL-1α was lower and epidermal damage was weaker than commercial product A. This retinol-loaded lipid nanocarrier could be a potentially superior material for cosmetics and biomedical research.

Efficacy and Safety of a New Cosmeceutical Regimen Based on the Combination of Snail Secretion Filtrate and Snail Egg Extract to Improve Signs of Skin Aging

BACKGROUND: Two extracts derived from the gastropod Cryptomphalus aspersa have been shown to have dermal regeneration properties: SCA® (secretion filtrate) with fibroblast growth factor-like activity and IFC®-CAF (cellular activating factor), a snail egg extract with skin stem cell activation activity. OBJECTIVE: The objectives of this study were to evaluate the synergic antiaging activity and tolerability of SCA and IFC-CAF in a combined regimen compared to vehicle as a placebo control. METHODS: A three-month, single-center, double-blinded, randomized, vehicle-controlled trial assessed the effects of a daily skincare routine divided into two treatment phases, as follows: intensive (1 month) and maintenance (2 months). Fifty women, aged 45-65 years, with signs of photoaging were randomized to receive either the active ingredients (n=30) or vehicle (n=20). Clinical evaluations included objective measurements of barrier function and skin hydration, elasticity, and color/brightness. Subjective assessments were conducted according to the Rao-Goldman and Glogau scales for wrinkles, the Patient Global Assessment (PGA) scale and Investigator Global Assessment (IGA) scale. RESULTS: Subjects in the active treatment group experienced reductions in transepidermal water loss and significant improvements in skin roughness, firmness, and elasticity. Both groups showed significant improvements in fine lines and wrinkles. PGA and IGA assessments indicated greater improvement in the active treatment group. CONCLUSION: The active snail extract treatment appears to be effective in improving signs of skin aging in women 45 to 65 years old. Larger randomized, controlled studies are needed to confirm our results.

Resveratrol protects HaCaT cells from ultraviolet B-induced photoaging via upregulation of HSP27 and modulation of mitochondrial caspase-dependent apoptotic pathway

The skin is the outermost protective barrier between the internal and external environment in humans. Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major cause of photoaging. Evidence suggests that resveratrol suppresses UVB-induced photoaging. In this study, we aimed to investigate the protective effects of resveratrol against UVB-induced photoaging in HaCaT cells and to determine the underlying mechanisms. Apoptosis of normal or HSP27-overexpressing HaCaT cells in the presence of UVB was analyzed by flow cytometry. The mRNA and protein expression levels were measured by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qRT-PCR) and western blotting. Resveratrol inhibited UVB-induced apoptosis by upregulating the expression of HSP27, reducing the production of proapoptotic proteins such as p65, Bax, and cleaved caspase-3, and promoting the expression of anti-apoptotic protein Bcl-2. However, UVB irradiation on HaCaT cells pretreated with resveratrol led to the upregulation of Bax, downregulation of Bcl-2, and promotion of p65 and caspase-3 activation after silencing of HSP27 gene. These findings suggest that the inhibition of HSP27 expression can partially reverse the anti-apoptotic effect of resveratrol and confirm that resveratrol can regulate HSP27 and thus control p65 and caspase-3 activation. In summary, resveratrol plays a role in photoprotection by upregulating HSP27 expression, increasing Bcl-2/Bax ratio, and inhibiting caspase-3 activity and p65 expression.