Safety Assessment of Zinc Salts as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 27 inorganic and organometallic zinc salts as used in cosmetic formulations; these salts are specifically of the 2+ (II) oxidation state cation of zinc. These ingredients included in this report have various reported functions in cosmetics, including hair conditioning agents, skin conditioning agents, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, preservatives, oral care agents, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating agents, and viscosity increasing agents. The Panel reviewed the relevant data for these ingredients, and concluded that these 27 ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 274 polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. Each of the esters in this group is a polyether comprising 2 to 20 glyceryl residues, end-capped by esterification with simple carboxylic acids, such as fatty acids. Most of these ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents and/or surfactants. The Panel reviewed the available data and considered conclusions from their relevant previous reports, and determined that these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.

Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 51 triglycerides; 25 of these ingredients were previously reviewed by the Panel, and 26 are reviewed herein for the first time. The majority of the ingredients named in this assessment have several functions, with most reported to function as skin conditioning agents (occlusive or emollient) and/or viscosity increasing agents in cosmetics; some are also reported to function as a fragrance or solvent. The Panel reviewed relevant new data, including frequency and concentration of use, and considered the data from previous reports. The Panel concluded the 51 triglycerides reviewed in this report are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Ethers and Esters of Ascorbic Acid as Used in Cosmetics

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 7 ethers and esters of ascorbic acid, which collectively function as antioxidants, skin-conditioning agents, skin protectants, fragrance ingredients, and skin bleaching agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients, and concluded that the ethers and esters of ascorbic acid are safe in the present practices of use and concentration, as described in this safety assessment.

Lipids from Insects in Cosmetics and for Personal Care Products

Simple Summary

The use of insects as a new source of lipids is a topic of great interest from both environmental and economic points of view. In addition to use in feed and energy applications, lipids could be used for the formulation of personal care products. The cosmetics industry is always in search of new ingredients to use in novel product formulations. The processes mediated by bioconverter insects, such as Hermetia illucens, are really advantageous because starting from substrates of low economic and biological value (agri-food by-products, zootechnical, catering, and other waste), it is possible to obtain products of high commercial value. The composition of insect lipids depends on the feeding substrate, as well as the insect species, therefore for each personal care application, it is possible to find the most suitable starting conditions. In this review, we display a general outlook on insect lipids, the extraction processes, and their use in cosmetics and personal care fields.

Abstract

Insects, the most varied group of known organisms on Earth, are arousing great interest also for the possibility to use them as a feed and food source. The mass rearing of some species, defined as “bioconverters”, is spreading worldwide, thanks to their sustainability. At the end of the bioconversion process, breeders obtain eco-friendly biomolecules of high biological and economic value, including proteins and lipids, from larvae of bioconverter insects, in particular Hermetia illucens. Besides the most classical use of insect lipids as food additives, they are also used in the formulation of several products for personal care. The composition of insect lipids depends on the substrate on which the insects are reared but also on the insect species, so the cosmetic producers should consider these features to choose their insect starting point. The most abundant fatty acids detected in H. illucens are lauric, myristic, palmitic, and oleic acids, regardless of feed substrate; its fatty acids composition is favorable for soap composition, while their derivatives are used for detergent and shampoo. Here, we offer an overview of insect lipids, their extraction methods, and their application in cosmetics and personal care products.

Biochemical Profile by GC-MS of Fungal Biomass Produced from the Ascospores of Tirmania nivea as a Natural Renewable Resource

The edible fruiting bodies of desert truffles are seasonally collected and consumed in many regions of the world. Although they are very expensive, they are bought and sold as a result of considerable scientific reports confirming their health and nutritional benefits. This study aimed to conduct laboratory production of the fungal biomass of Tirmania nivea as a natural renewable resource of many active biological compounds using an artificial growth medium. The T. nivea collected from Hafar Al-Batin, which is north of Saudi Arabia, and their ascospores were harvested and used to produce fungal biomass in potato dextrose broth. The cultivation was conducted using a shaking incubator at 25 °C for two weeks at 200 rpm. The crud extracts of the fungal biomass and mycelium-free broth were prepared using ethyl acetate, methanol and hexane. Preliminary gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis and their biological activity as antimicrobial agents were investigated. The results showed that the crude extracts have biological activity against mold, yeast and bacteria. The preliminary GC-MS analysis reported that the fungal biomass and extracellular metabolites in the growth medium are industrial renewable resources of several biological compounds that could be used as antifungal, antibacterial, antiviral, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-trypanosomal and anti-inflammatory agents.

Aluminium in cosmetics and personal care products

Usage of inorganic ingredients like aluminium salts in cosmetics and personal care products has been a concern for producers and consumers. Although aluminium is used to treat hyperhidrosis, some worries have been raised about aluminium's role in breast cancer, breast cyst and Alzheimer's disease. The human population is exposed to aluminium from vaccines, diet, and drinking water, but the frequent use of aluminium-based cosmetics might add additional local exposure. This paper reviews literature to determine if aluminium-based products may pose potential harm to the body. The dermal absorption of aluminium is not widely understood. It is not yet known whether aluminium can travel from the skin to brain to cause Alzheimer's disease. Aluminium may cause gene instability, alter gene expression or enhance oxidative stress, but the carcinogenicity of aluminium has not been proved yet. Until now, epidemiological researches were based on oral information, which lacks consistency, and the results are conflicting. Future studies should target real-life-based long-time exposure to antiperspirants and other aluminium-containing cosmetics and personal care products.

The Selective Antibacterial Activity of the Mixed Systems Containing Myristic Acid against Staphylococci

Fatty acids and their derivatives are interesting cosmetic ingredients because they show the selective antibacterial activity against Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus). However, the antibacterial activity in mixed systems containing several active ingredients is unclear because previous studies focused antibacterial systems containing one kind of fatty acid. In the present study, the minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) and the fractional inhibitory concentration (FIC) were evaluated for myristic acid/lauric acid, myristic acid/palmitoleic acid, and myristic acid/lactic acid mixed systems to show the effect of the coexisting components on the selective antibacterial activity of myristic acid. In the myristic acid/palmitoleic acid mixed system, the antibacterial activity against S. aureus was enhanced by additive effect, whereas the antibacterial activity was not observed against S. epidermidis. On the other hand, the myristic acid/lauric acid mixed system showed antibacterial activity against S. epidermidis: Lauric acid impaired the selectivity of antibacterial activity of myristic acid. These results suggest that the selective activity of myristic acid varies with the additives. The present findings are useful for designing formulations of cosmetics and body cleansers containing myristic acid.

Synthesis and Characterization of Nanostructured Lipid Nanocarriers for Enhanced Sun Protection Factor of Octyl p-methoxycinnamate

Sunlight is important to health, but higher exposure to radiation causes early aging of the skin and skin damage that can lead to skin cancers. This study aimed at producing a stable octyl p-methoxycinnamate (OMC)-loaded nanostructured lipid carrier (NLC) sunscreen, which can help in the photoprotective effect. NLC was produced by emulsification-sonication method and these systems were composed of myristyl myristate (MM), caprylic capric triglyceride (CCT), Tween® 80 (TW), and soybean phosphatidylcholine (SP) and characterized by dynamic light scattering (DLS), zeta potential (ZP) measurement, atomic force microscopy (AFM), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and in vitro release studies. Pre-formulation studies were performed changing TW concentrations and no differences were found at concentrations of 1.0 and 2.0%. Two selected formulations were designed and showed an average size of 91.5-131.7, polydispersity index > 0.2, and a negative value of ZP. AFM presented a sphere-like morphology and SEM showed ability to form a thin film. DSC exhibited that the incorporation of OMC promoted reduction of enthalpy due to formation of a more amorphous structure. Drug release shows up to 55.74% and 30.57%, and this difference could be related to the presence of SP in this formulation that promoted a more amorphous structure; the release mechanism study indicated Fickian diffusion and relaxation. Sun protection factor (SPF) evaluation was performed using NLC and presented values around 40, considerably higher than those observed in the literature. The developed formulations provide a beneficial alternative to conventional sunscreen formulations.

Safety Assessment of Diethanolamine and Its Salts as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel assessed the safety of diethanolamine and its salts as used in cosmetics. Diethanolamine functions as a pH adjuster; the 16 salts included in this rereview reportedly function as surfactants, emulsifying agents, viscosity increasing agents, hair or skin conditioning agents, foam boosters, or antistatic agents. The Panel reviewed available animal and clinical data, as well as information from previous CIR reports. Since data were not available for each individual ingredient, and since the salts dissociate freely in water, the Panel extrapolated from previous reports to support safety. The Panel concluded that diethanolamine and its salts are safe for use when formulated to be nonirritating. These ingredients should not be used in cosmetic products in which N-nitroso compounds can be formed.

Safety Assessment of Alumina and Aluminum Hydroxide as Used in Cosmetics

This is a safety assessment of alumina and aluminum hydroxide as used in cosmetics. Alumina functions as an abrasive, absorbent, anticaking agent, bulking agent, and opacifying agent. Aluminum hydroxide functions as a buffering agent, corrosion inhibitor, and pH adjuster. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) evaluated the safe use of alumina in several medical devices and aluminum hydroxide in over-the-counter drugs, which included a review of human and animal safety data. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel considered the FDA evaluations as part of the basis for determining the safety of these ingredients as used in cosmetics. Alumina used in cosmetics is essentially the same as that used in medical devices. This safety assessment does not include metallic or elemental aluminum as a cosmetic ingredient. The CIR Expert Panel concluded that alumina and aluminum hydroxide are safe in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment.

Safety Assessment of Amino Acid Alkyl Amides as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) reviewed the product use, formulation, and safety data of 115 amino acid alkyl amides, which function as skin and hair conditioning agents and as surfactants—cleansing agents in personal care products. Safety test data on dermal irritation and sensitization for the ingredients with the highest use concentrations, lauroyl lysine and sodium lauroyl glutamate, were reviewed and determined to adequately support the safe use of the ingredients in this report. The Panel concluded that amino acid alkyl amides are safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics, when formulated to be nonirritating.

Amended Safety Assessment of Isethionate Salts as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel (Panel) rereviewed the safety of 12 isethionate salts as used in cosmetics and concluded that these ingredients are safe in the present practices of use and concentration, when formulated to be nonirritating. These isethionate salts are reported to function mostly as surfactants and cleansing agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data as well as information from previous CIR reports. Although there are data gaps, the shared chemical core structure, expected similarities in physicochemical properties, and similar functions and concentrations in cosmetics enabled grouping these ingredients and reading across the available toxicological data to support the safety assessment of each ingredient.

Environmental fatty acids enable emergence of infectious Staphylococcus aureus resistant to FASII-targeted antimicrobials

The bacterial pathway for fatty acid biosynthesis, FASII, is a target for development of new anti-staphylococcal drugs. This strategy is based on previous reports indicating that self-synthesized fatty acids appear to be indispensable for Staphylococcus aureus growth and virulence, although other bacteria can use exogenous fatty acids to compensate FASII inhibition. Here we report that staphylococci can become resistant to the FASII-targeted inhibitor triclosan via high frequency mutations in fabD, one of the FASII genes. The fabD mutants can be conditional for FASII and not require exogenous fatty acids for normal growth, and can use diverse fatty acid combinations (including host fatty acids) when FASII is blocked. These mutants show cross-resistance to inhibitors of other FASII enzymes and are infectious in mice. Clinical isolates bearing fabD polymorphisms also bypass FASII inhibition. We propose that fatty acid-rich environments within the host, in the presence of FASII inhibitors, might favour the emergence of staphylococcal strains displaying resistance to multiple FASII inhibitors.

The bacterial pathway for fatty acid biosynthesis, FASII, is a target for development of new anti-staphylococcal drugs. Here, Morvan et al. show that exogenous fatty acids can favour the emergence of staphylococcal strains displaying resistance to multiple FASII inhibitors.

Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 237 alkyl esters for use in cosmetics. The alkyl esters included in this assessment have a variety of reported functions in cosmetics, with skin-conditioning agent being the most common function. The Panel reviewed available animal and clinical data in making its determination of safety on these ingredients, and where there were data gaps, similarity in structure, properties, functions, and uses of these ingredients allowed for extrapolation of the available toxicological data to assess the safety of the entire group. The Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe in cosmetic formulations in the present practices of use and concentration when formulated to be nonirritating.

Safety assessment of Vitis vinifera (grape)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 24 Vitis vinifera (grape)-derived ingredients and found them safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics. These ingredients function in cosmetics mostly as skin-conditioning agents, but some function as antioxidants, flavoring agents, and/or colorants. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Additionally, some constituents of grapes have been assessed previously for safety as cosmetic ingredients by the Panel, and others are compounds that have been discussed in previous Panel safety assessments.

Safety Assessment of Cucumis sativus (Cucumber)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The CIR Expert Panel assessed the safety of 6 Cucumis sativus (cucumber)-derived ingredients and found them safe in cosmetic formulations in the present practices of use and concentration. These ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents. Cucumber is a commonly consumed food with no history of significant adverse effects, suggesting that its ingredients should not pose any major safety issues following oral exposure. This assessment focused on the dermal exposure to the low concentrations of these ingredients as used in cosmetics. Some of the constituents of cucumbers have been assessed previously for safe use as cosmetic ingredients.

Safety Assessment of Diethanolamides as Used in Cosmetics

Cocamide diethanolamine (DEA) and some of the other diethanolamides are mainly used as surfactant foam boosters or viscosity increasing agents in cosmetics, although a few are reported to be used as hair and skin conditioning agents, surfactant-cleansing or surfactant-emulsifying agents, or as an opacifying agent. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel considered new data and information from previous CIR reports to assess the concerns about the potential for amidases in human skin to convert these diethanolamides into DEA and the corresponding fatty acids. The Expert Panel concluded that these diethanolamides are safe as used when formulated to be nonirritating and when the levels of free DEA in the diethanolamides do not exceed those considered safe by the Panel. The Panel also recommended that these ingredients not be used in cosmetic products in which N-nitroso compounds can be formed.

Safety Assessment of Triethanolamine and Triethanolamine-Containing Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed the safety of triethanolamine (TEA) and 31 related TEA-containing ingredients as used in cosmetics. The TEA is reported to function as a surfactant or pH adjuster; the related TEA-containing ingredients included in this safety assessment are reported to function as surfactants and hair- or skin-conditioning agents. The exception is TEA-sorbate, which is reported to function as a preservative. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data. Although data were not available for all the ingredients, the panel relied on the information available for TEA in conjunction with previous safety assessments of components of TEA-containing ingredients. These data could be extrapolated to support the safety of all included ingredients. The panel concluded that TEA and related TEA-containing ingredients named in this report are safe as used when formulated to be nonirritating. These ingredients should not be used in cosmetic products in which N-nitroso compounds can be formed.