Infrared spectroscopic study of stratum corneum model membranes prepared from human ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids

Molecular Dynamics Investigation into CerENP's Effect on the Lipid Matrix of Stratum Corneum

The extracellular lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC) plays a critical role in skin barrier functionality, comprising three primary components: ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. The diverse ceramides, differentiated by molecular structures such as hydroxylations and varying chain lengths, are essential for the lipid matrix's structural integrity. Recently, a new subclass of ceramide, 1-O-acylceramide NP (CerENP), has been identified; however, its precise role in the lipid matrix of the SC is still elusive. Herein, we investigate the role of CerENP on the structure and permeability of the SC using molecular dynamics simulations. Our findings indicate that CerENP contributes to a compact lipid matrix in the lateral dimension of our SC model with a repeat distance of about 13 nm. Additionally, ethanol permeability assessments show that CerENP effectively reduces molecular penetration through the lipid matrix. This study provides an insight into the role of a new subclass of ceramide in the SC, enhancing our understanding of skin structure and the mechanisms behind barrier dysfunction in skin diseases.

The heterogeneity and complexity of skin surface lipids in human skin health and disease

The outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is not simply a barrier that safeguards skin integrity from external insults and invaders, it is also a delicately integrated interface composed of firm, essentially dead corneocytes and a distinctive lipid matrix. Together, the stratum corneum lipid matrix and sebum lipids derived from sebaceous glands give rise to a remarkably complex but quite unique blend of skin surface lipids that demonstrates tremendous heterogeneity and provides the skin with its indispensable protective coating. The stratum corneum lipid matrix is composed primarily of three major lipid classes: ceramides, non-esterified fatty acids and cholesterol, whereas sebum is a waxy mixture predominantly composed of acylglycerols, wax esters, non-esterified fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol esters. The balance of these skin surface lipids in terms of their relative abundance, composition, molecular organisation and dynamics, and their intricate interactions play a crucial role in the maintenance of healthy skin. For that reason, even minuscule alterations in skin surface lipid properties or overall lipid profile have been implicated in the aetiology of many common skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, xerosis, ichthyosis and acne. Novel lipid-based interventions aimed at correcting the skin surface lipid abnormalities have the potential to repair skin barrier integrity and the symptoms associated with such skin diseases, even though the exact mechanisms of lipid restoration remain elusive.

Towards skin-on-a-chip for screening the dermal absorption of cosmetics

Over the past few decades, there have been increasing global efforts to limit or ban the use of animals for testing cosmetic products. This ambition has been at the heart of international endeavours to develop new in vitro and animal-free approaches for assessing the safety of cosmetics. While several of these new approach methodologies (NAMs) have been approved for assessing different toxicological endpoints in the UK and across the EU, there remains an absence of animal-free methods for screening for dermal absorption; a measure that assesses the degree to which chemical substances can become systemically available through contact with human skin. Here, we identify some of the major technical barriers that have impacted regulatory recognition of an in vitro skin model for this purpose and propose how these could be overcome on-chip using artificial cells engineered from the bottom-up. As part of our future perspective, we suggest how this could be realised using a digital biomanufacturing pipeline that connects the design, microfluidic generation and 3D printing of artificial cells into user-crafted synthetic tissues. We highlight milestone achievements towards this goal, identify future challenges, and suggest how the ability to engineer animal-free skin models could have significant long-term consequences for dermal absorption screening, as well as for other applications.

Biomimetic Stratum Corneum Liposome Models: Lamellar Organization and Permeability Studies

The stratum corneum (SC), the outer layer of the skin, plays a crucial role as a barrier protecting the underlying cells from external stress. The SC comprises three key components: ceramide (CER), free fatty acid (FFA), and cholesterol, along with small fractions of cholesterol sulfate and cholesterol ester. In order to gain a deeper understanding about the interdependence of the two major components, CER and FFA, on the organizational, structural, and functional properties of the SC layer, a library of SC lipid liposome (SCLL) models was developed by mixing CER (phytosphingosine or sphingosine), FFA (oleic acid, palmitic acid, or stearic acid), cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Self-assembly of the SC lipids into lamellar phases was first confirmed by small-angle X-ray scattering. Short periodicity and long periodicity phases were identified for SCLLs containing phytosphingosines and sphingosine CERs, respectively. Furthermore, unsaturation in the CER acyl and FFA chains reduced the lipid conformational ordering and packing density of the liposomal bilayer, which were measured by differential scanning calorimetry and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The introduction of unsaturation in the CER and/or FFA chains also impacted the lamellar integrity and permeability. This extensive library of SCLL models exhibiting physiologically relevant lamellar phases with defined structural and functional properties may potentially be used as a model system for screening pharmaceuticals or cosmetic agents.

Biogeographic and disease-specific alterations in epidermal lipid composition and single cell analysis of acral keratinocytes

The epidermis is the outermost layer of skin. Here, we used targeted lipid profiling to characterize the biogeographic alterations of human epidermal lipids across 12 anatomically distinct body sites, and we used single-cell RNA-Seq to compare keratinocyte gene expression at acral and nonacral sites. We demonstrate that acral skin has low expression of EOS acyl-ceramides and the genes involved in their synthesis, as well as low expression of genes involved in filaggrin and keratin citrullination (PADI1 and PADI3) and corneodesmosome degradation, changes that are consistent with increased corneocyte retention. Several overarching principles governing epidermal lipid expression were also noted. For example, there was a strong negative correlation between the expression of 18-carbon and 22-carbon sphingoid base ceramides. Disease-specific alterations in epidermal lipid gene expression and their corresponding alterations to the epidermal lipidome were characterized. Lipid biomarkers with diagnostic utility for inflammatory and precancerous conditions were identified, and a 2-analyte diagnostic model of psoriasis was constructed using a step-forward algorithm. Finally, gene coexpression analysis revealed a strong connection between lipid and immune gene expression. This work highlights (a) mechanisms by which the epidermis is uniquely adapted for the specific environmental insults encountered at different body surfaces and (b) how inflammation-associated alterations in gene expression affect the epidermal lipidome.

Implications of surfactant hydrophobic chain architecture on the Surfactant-Skin lipid model interaction

Although surfactants have been widely used in skin care and other related applications, our knowledge about how surfactants interact with stratum corneum (SC) lipids remains limited. This work reports how surfactants interact with a lipid SC model by neutron diffraction and molecular dynamics (MD) simulations, focusing on examining the impact of surfactant molecular architecture. The surfactant-SC mixed membrane was constructed by an equimolar mixture of ceramide/cholesterol/fatty acids and surfactant at 1% molar ratio of total lipids. The arrangements of water and surfactant molecules in the membrane were obtained through neutron scattering length density (NSLD) profiles via contrast variation method, meanwhile, MD simulation clearly demonstrated the mechanism of hydration change in the surfactant-model SC mixed membrane. No drastic difference was detected in the repeating distance of the short periodicity phase (SPP) upon adding surfactants, however, it significantly enhanced the membrane hydration and reduced the amount of phase separated crystalline cholesterol, showing a strong dependence on surfactant chain length, branching and double bond. This work clearly demonstrates how surfactant architecture affects its interaction with the SC membrane, providing useful guidance for either choosing an existing surfactant or designing a new one for surfactant-based transdermal application.

Terpenoid Hydrazones as Biomembrane Penetration Enhancers: FT-IR Spectroscopy and Fluorescence Probe Studies

Hydrazones based on mono- and bicyclic terpenoids (verbenone, menthone and carvone) have been investigated in vitro as potential biomembrane penetration enhancers. In this regard, liposomes composed of lecithin or cardiolipin as phospholipid phase components with incorporated fluorescence probes have been prepared using the thin-film ultrasonic dispersion method. The mean particle size of the obtained liposomes, established using laser diffraction, was found to be 583 ± 0.95 nm, allowing us to categorize them as multilamellar vesicles (MLVs) according to their morphology. Pursuant to fluorescence analysis, we may assume a reduction in microviscosity and, consequently, a decrease in the packing density of lecithin and cardiolipin lipids to be the major mechanism of action for terpenoid hydrazones 1–15. In order to determine the molecular organization of the lipid matrix, lipids were isolated from rat strata cornea (SCs) and their interaction with tested compounds was studied by means of Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. FT-IR examination suggested that these hydrazones fluidized the SC lipids via the disruption of the hydrogen-bonded network formed by polar groups of SC constituents. The relationship between the structure of terpenoid hydrazones and their ability to enhance biomembrane penetration is discussed.

Increased Levels of Short-Chain Ceramides Modify the Lipid Organization and Reduce the Lipid Barrier of Skin Model Membranes

The skin barrier function is attributed to the stratum corneum (SC) intercellular lipid matrix, which is composed primarily of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids, and cholesterol. These lipids are organized in two lamellar phases: the short and long periodicity phases (SPP and LPP), respectively. The LPP is considered important for the skin barrier function. High levels of short-chain CERs are observed in various inflammatory skin diseases and have been correlated with barrier dysfunction. In this research, we investigated how the increase in the fraction of the short-chain CER with a nonhydroxy C16 acyl chain linked to a C18 sphingosine base CER NS(C16) at the expense of the physiological chain length CER NS with a C24 acyl chain (CER NS(C24)) impacts the microstructure and barrier function of a lipid model that mimicked certain characteristics of the SC lipid organization. The permeability and lipid organization of the model membranes were compared with that of a control model without CER NS(C16). The permeability increased significantly when ≥50% of CER NS(C24) was substituted with CER NS(C16). Employing biophysical techniques, we showed that the lipid packing density reduced with an increasing proportion of CER NS(C16). Substitution of 75% of CER NS(C24) by CER NS(C16) resulted in the formation of phase-separated lipid domains and alteration of the LPP structure. Using deuterium-labeled lipids enabled simultaneous characterization of the C24 and C16 acyl chains in the lipid models, providing insight into the mechanisms underlying the reduced skin barrier function in diseased skin.

Effects of ozone on stratum corneum lipid integrity and assembly

The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O₃) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O₃ induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O₃ can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O₃ and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies reveal that O₃ induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, the modifications improved the barrier function of the SCS.

Multitargeted Approach for the Optimization of Morphogenesis and Barrier Formation in Human Skin Equivalents

In vitro skin tissue engineering is challenging due to the manifold differences between the in vivo and in vitro conditions. Yet, three-dimensional (3D) human skin equivalents (HSEs) are able to mimic native human skin in many fundamental aspects. However, the epidermal lipid barrier formation, which is essential for the functionality of the skin barrier, remains compromised. Recently, HSEs with an improved lipid barrier formation were generated by (i) incorporating chitosan in the dermal collagen matrix, (ii) reducing the external oxygen level to 3%, and (iii) inhibiting the liver X receptor (LXR). In this study, we aimed to determine the synergic effects in full-thickness models (FTMs) with combinations of these factors as single-, double-, and triple-targeted optimization approaches. The collagen–chitosan FTM supplemented with the LXR inhibitor showed improved epidermal morphogenesis, an enhanced lipid composition, and a better lipid organization. Importantly, barrier functionality was improved in the corresponding approach. In conclusion, our leading optimization approach substantially improved the epidermal morphogenesis, barrier formation, and functionality in the FTM, which therefore better resembled native human skin.

High concentration of the ester-linked ω-hydroxy ceramide increases the permeability in skin lipid model membranes

The ester-linked ω-hydroxy acyl chain linked to a sphingosine base referred to as CER EOS is essential for the skin barrier lipid organization. While the majority of the skin lipids form a dense, crystalline structure, associated with low permeability, the unsaturated moiety of CER EOS, (either the linoleate or the oleate chain) exists in a liquid phase at the skin's physiological temperature. Thus, the relationship between CER EOS and barrier function is not entirely comprehended. We studied the permeability and lipid organization in skin lipid models, gradually increasing in CER EOS concentration, mixed with non-hydroxy sphingosine-based ceramide (CER NS) in an equimolar ratio of CERs, cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFAs) mimicking the ratio in the native skin. A significant increase in the orthorhombic-hexagonal phase transition temperature was recorded when CER EOS concentration was raised to 70 mol% of the total CER content and higher, rendering a higher fraction of lipids in the orthorhombic phase at the expense of the hexagonal phase at physiological temperature. The model's permeability did not differ when CER EOS concentration ranged between 10 and 30% but increased significantly at 70% and higher. Using CER EOS with a perdeuterated oleate chain, it was shown that the fraction of lipids in a liquid phase increased with CER EOS concentration, while the neighboring CERs and FFAs remained in a crystalline state. The increased fraction of the liquid phase therefore, had a stronger effect on permeability than the increased fraction of lipids forming an orthorhombic phase.

Raman and AFM-IR chemical imaging of stratum corneum model membranes

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis, is the primary barrier to percutaneous absorption. The diffusion of substances through the skin occurs through the SC lipid fraction, which is essentially constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. The lipid constituents of SC are mainly forming continuous multilamellar membranes in the solid/crystalline state. However, recent findings suggest the presence of a highly disordered (liquid) phase formed by the unsaturated C18 chain of ceramide EOS, surrounded by a highly ordered lipid environment. The aim of the present work was to study the lipid spatial distribution of model SC membranes composed of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, a mixture of free fatty acids, and cholesterol, using Raman microspectroscopy and AFM-IR spectroscopy techniques. The enhanced spatial resolution at the tens of nanometers scale of the AFM-IR technique revealed that the lipid matrix is overall homogeneous, with the presence of small, slightly enriched, and depleted regions in a lipid component. No liquid domains of ceramide EOS were observed at this scale, a result that is consistent with the model proposing that the oleate nanodrops are concentrated in the central layer of the three-layer organization of the SC membranes forming the long periodicity phase. In addition, both Raman microspectroscopy and AFM-IR techniques confirmed the fluid nature of the unsaturated chain of ceramide EOS while the rest of the lipid matrix was found highly ordered.

Alzheimer's disease-related amyloid β peptide causes structural disordering of lipids and changes the electric properties of a floating bilayer lipid membrane

Neurodegeneration in Alzheimer's disease is associated with disruption of the neuronal cell membrane by the amyloid β (Aβ) peptide. However, the disruption mechanism and the resulting changes in membrane properties remain to be elucidated. To address this issue, herein the interaction of amyloid β monomers (AβMs) and amyloid β oligomers (AβOs) with a floating bilayer lipid membrane (fBLM) was studied using electrochemical and IR spectroscopy techniques. IR measurements showed that both Aβ forms interacted similarly with the hydrophobic membrane core (lipid acyl chains), causing conformational and orientational changes of the lipid acyl chains, thus decreasing acyl chain mobility and altering the lipid packing unit cell. In the presence of AβOs, these changes were more significant than those in the presence of AβMs. However, respective interactions of AβMs and AβOs with the membrane hydrophilic exterior (lipid heads) were quite different. AβMs dehydrated lipid heads without affecting their orientation while AβOs changed the orientation of lipid heads keeping their hydration level intact. Electrochemical measurements showed that only AβOs porated the fBLM, thus significantly changing the fBLM electrical properties. The present results provide new molecular-level insight into the mechanism of membrane destruction by AβOs and changes in the membrane properties.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

The effects of LXR agonist T0901317 and LXR antagonist GSK2033 on morphogenesis and lipid properties in full thickness skin models

Full thickness models (FTMs) are 3D-cultured human skin models that mimic many aspects of native human skin (NHS). However, their stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition differs from NHS causing a reduced skin barrier. The most pronounced differences in lipid composition are a reduction in lipid chain length and increased monounsaturated lipids. The liver-X-receptor (LXR) activates the monounsaturated lipid synthesis via stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1). Therefore, the aim was to improve the SC lipid synthesis of FTMs by LXR deactivation. This was achieved by supplementing culture medium with LXR antagonist GSK2033. LXR agonist T0901317 was added for comparison. Subsequently, epidermal morphogenesis, lipid composition, lipid organization and the barrier functionality of these FTMs were assessed. We demonstrate that LXR deactivation resulted in a lipid composition with increased overall chain lengths and reduced levels of monounsaturation, whereas LXR activation increased the amount of monounsaturated lipids and led to a reduction in the overall chain length. However, these changes did not affect the barrier functionality. In conclusion, LXR deactivation led to the development of FTMs with improved lipid properties, which mimic the lipid composition of NHS more closely. These novel findings may contribute to design interventions to normalize SC lipid composition of atopic dermatitis patients.

New insight into phase behavior and permeability of skin lipid models based on sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides

The intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum (SC), which consist mainly of ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids and cholesterol, is fundamental to the skin barrier function. These lipids assemble into two lamellar phases, known as the long and short periodicity phases (LPP and SPP respectively). The LPP is unique in the SC and is considered important for the skin barrier function. Alterations in CER composition, as well as impaired skin barrier function, are commonly observed in diseased skin, yet the understanding of this relationship remains insufficient. In this study, we have investigated the influence of non-hydroxy and α-hydroxy sphingosine-based CERs and their phytosphingosine counterparts on the permeability and lipid organization of model membranes, which were adjusted in composition to enhance formation of the LPP. The permeability was compared by diffusion studies using ethyl-p-aminobenzoate as a model drug, and the lipid organization was characterized by X-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. Both the sphingosine- and phytosphingosine-based CER models formed the LPP, while the latter exhibited a longer LPP repeat distance. The ethyl-p-aminobenzoate flux across the sphingosine-based CER models was higher when compared to the phytosphingosine counterparts, contrary to the fact that the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based CER model had the lowest chain packing density. The unanticipated low permeability of the α-hydroxy phytosphingosine-based model is probably associated with a stronger headgroup hydrogen bonding network. Our findings indicate that the increased level of sphingosine-based CERs at the expense of phytosphingosine-based CERs, as observed in the diseased skin, may contribute to the barrier function impairment.

Quantification of Lipid Phase Order of In Vivo Human Skin Using Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier Transform Infrared (ATR FT-IR) Spectroscopy and Multivariate Curve Resolution Analysis

A new analysis methodology utilizing multivariate curve resolution (MCR) has been successfully combined with Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) measurement of in vivo human skin to resolve lipid phase constituents in the spectra relative to high and low chain ordering. A clinical study was performed to measure lipid order through different depths of stratum corneum of human subjects. Fourier transform IR spectra were collected through the top 10 layers of the skin on four sites on the left and right forearm of 12 individuals. Depth profiling was achieved by tape stripping to remove layers of skin with 10 successive tapes from each site. In vivo ATR FT-IR spectra were collected after removing each tape. Three isolated spectral regions were analyzed, centered around 2850 cm^-1, 1460-1480 cm^-1, and 730 cm^-1, corresponding to stretching, scissoring, and rocking -CH₂ vibrational modes, respectively. Both traditional lipid conformation analysis and MCR analysis were performed on the same spectral data. The lipid order ratio, expressed as the fraction of highly ordered orthorhombic (OR) lipids to the total lipids content (orthorhombic + hexagonal [HEX] + liquid crystal [LC]), was assessed as function of depth. Lipid order depth profiles (LODP) show an increase in order with the stratum corneum depth which can be adequately described by an exponential function for the data obtained in this study. The LODP derived from the three vibrational modes show very similar trends, although the absolute order ratios are somewhat different. The variance of the skin LODP across individuals is much greater than between sites within the same individual. The higher arm sites closer to the elbow on the left and right arm show no statistically significant difference and are recommended for use in comparative studies. The scissoring mode shows the highest sensitivity for determination of LODP value.

State of the art in Stratum Corneum research: The biophysical properties of ceramides

This review is summarizing an important part of the state of the art in stratum corneum research. A complete overview on discoveries about the general biophysical and physicochemical properties of the known ceramide species' is provided. The ceramides are one of the three major components of the lipid matrix and mainly govern its properties and structure. They are shown to exhibit very little redundancy, despite the minor differences in their chemical structure. The results are discussed, compared to each other as well as the current base of knowledge. New interesting aspects and concepts are concluded or suggested. A novel interpretation of the 3-dimensional structure of the lipid matrix and its influence on the barrier function will be discussed. The most important conclusion is the presentation of a new and up to date theoretical model of the nanostructure of the short periodicity phase. The model suggests three perpendicular layers: The rigid head group region, the rigid chain region and, a liquid-like overlapping middle layer. The general principle of the skin barrier function is highlighted in regard to this structure and the ceramides biophysical and physicochemical properties. As a result of these considerations, the entropy vs. enthalpy principle is introduced, shedding light on the function as well as the effectiveness of the skin barrier. Additionally, general ideas to effectively overcome this barrier principle for dermal and transdermal delivery of actives or how to use it for specific targeting of the stratum corneum are proposed.

Action of surfactants on the mammal epidermal skin barrier

BACKGROUND

Daily skin washing routines can promote undesirable effects on skin barrier function. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix is crucial for skin barrier function. Skin cleansing products are mostly composed of surfactants: surface-active molecules that interact with skin lipids in several ways. The main aim of this work was to investigate the effect produced by surfactants on skin barrier permeability. Porcine skin is a well-accepted and readily available model of the human skin barrier. The effect of two cleansing formulations (based on different surfactant mixtures) on the barrier properties of mammalian skin were evaluated.

METHODS

Water sorption/desorption (DVS) experiments were used to measure skin permeability. Attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy and confocal Raman were useful to study SC lipid organization.

RESULTS

The results showed that while anionic surfactants (SLS) had a negative impact on the skin barrier, with a clear increase of alkyl chain disorder; cosurfactants present in the shampoo formulation diminished the detrimental effect of their primary ionic surfactant, inducing less modification on lipid intramolecular chain disorder.

CONCLUSIONS

The obtained results confirmed that the mild cleansing formulations studied had gentle interaction with skin. The capacity to discriminate between detergent systems was clearly established with both DVS and spectroscopy techniques.

ATR-IR study of skin components: Lipids, proteins and water. Part I: Temperature effect

In this work we report the studies of the effect of temperature on skin components, such as lipids, proteins and water. Modifications of lipids structure induced by increasing temperature (from 20 to 90°C) have been studied using ATR-IR (Attenuated Total Reflectance Infrared) spectroscopy, which is a powerful tool for characterization of the molecular structure and properties of tissues, such as skin. Due to the small depth of penetration (0.6-5.6μm), ATR-IR spectroscopy probes only the outermost layer of the skin, i.e. the stratum corneum (SC). The assignment of main spectral features of skin components allows for the determination of phase transitions from the temperature dependencies of band intensities [e.g. ν_as(CH₂) and ν_s(CH₂)]. The phase transitions were determined by using two methods: the first one was based on the first derivative of the Boltzmann function and the second one employed tangent lines of sigmoidal, aforementioned dependencies. The phase transitions in lipids were correlated with modifications of the structure of water and proteins.

Evidence of hydrocarbon nanodrops in highly ordered stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of skin, dictates the rate of both water loss through the skin and absorption of exogenous molecules into the body. The crystalline organization of the lipids in the SC is believed to be a key feature associated with the very limited permeability of the skin. In this work, we characterized the organization of SC lipid models that include, as in native SC, cholesterol, a series of FFAs (saturated with C16-C24 chains), as well as a ceramide bearing an oleate chain-linked to a very long saturated acyl chain [N-melissoyl-oleoyloxy hexacosanoyl-D-erythro-sphingosine (Cer EOS)]. The latter is reported to be essential for the native SC lipid organization. Our ²H-NMR, infrared, and Raman spectroscopy data reveal that Cer EOS leads to the formation of highly disordered liquid domains in a solid/crystalline matrix. The lipid organization imposes steric constraint on Cer EOS oleate chains in such a way that these hydrocarbon nanodroplets remain in the liquid state down to -30°C. These findings modify the structural description of the SC substantially and propose a novel role of Cer EOS, as this lipid is a strong modulator of SC solid/liquid balance.

A Coarse-Grained Model of Stratum Corneum Lipids: Free Fatty Acids and Ceramide NS

Ceramide (CER)-based biological membranes are used both experimentally and in simulations as simplified model systems of the skin barrier. Molecular dynamics studies have generally focused on simulating preassembled structures using atomistically detailed models of CERs, which limit the system sizes and time scales that can practically be probed, rendering them ineffective for studying particular phenomena, including self-assembly into bilayer and lamellar superstructures. Here, we report on the development of a coarse-grained (CG) model for CER NS, the most abundant CER in human stratum corneum. Multistate iterative Boltzmann inversion is used to derive the intermolecular pair potentials, resulting in a force field that is applicable over a range of state points and suitable for studying ceramide self-assembly. The chosen CG mapping, which includes explicit interaction sites for hydroxyl groups, captures the directional nature of hydrogen bonding and allows for accurate predictions of several key structural properties of CER NS bilayers. Simulated wetting experiments allow the hydrophobicity of CG beads to be accurately tuned to match atomistic wetting behavior, which affects the whole system, since inaccurate hydrophobic character is found to unphysically alter the lipid packing in hydrated lamellar states. We find that CER NS can self-assemble into multilamellar structures, enabling the study of lipid systems more representative of the multilamellar lipid structures present in the skin barrier. The coarse-grained force field derived herein represents an important step in using molecular dynamics to study the human skin barrier, which gives a resolution not available through experiment alone.

Free fatty acids chain length distribution affects the permeability of skin lipid model membranes

The lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC) plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. The main lipid classes in this lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to determine whether a variation in CER subclass composition and chain length distribution of FFAs affect the permeability of this matrix. To examine this, we make use of lipid model membranes, referred to as stratum corneum substitute (SCS). We prepared SCS containing i) single CER subclass with either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs and CHOL, or ii) a mixture of various CER subclasses with either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs and CHOL. In vitro permeation studies were performed using ethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid (E-PABA) as a model drug. The flux of E-PABA across the SCS containing the mixture of FFAs was higher than that across the SCS containing a single FA with a chain length of 24 C atoms (FA C24), while the E-PABA flux was not effected by the CER composition. To select the underlying factors for the changes in permeability, the SCSs were examined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and Small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS). All lipid models demonstrated a similar phase behavior. However, when focusing on the conformational ordering of the individual FFA chains, the shorter chain FFA (with a chain length of 16, 18 or 20 C atoms forming only 11m/m% of the total FFA level) had a higher conformational disordering, while the conformational ordering of the chains of the CER and FA C24 and FA C22 hardly did not change irrespective of the composition of the SCS. In conclusion, the conformational mobility of the short chain FFAs present only at low levels in the model SC lipid membranes has a great impact on the permeability of E-PABA.

Chain Length of Free Fatty Acids Influences the Phase Behavior of Stratum Corneum Model Membranes

The skin, the largest organ of the human body, forms a flexible interface between our internal and external environment that protects our organism from exogenous compounds as well as excessive water loss. The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammal epidermis, is mainly responsible for the skin impermeability. The SC is formed by corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix, which is mostly constituted of ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol), organized in two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases. This arrangement of lipids is crucial to skin barrier function. The aim of this paper is to determine the impact of FFA chain length on the phase behavior of SC model lipid membranes using solid-state deuterium NMR and IR spectroscopy. We studied ternary mixtures of N-lignoceroyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (Cer24), cholesterol, and palmitic (FFA16) or lignoceric (FFA24) acid in an equimolar ratio. This proportion replicates the lipid composition found in the SC lipid matrix. Our studies revealed that the phase behavior of Cer24/FFA/Chol ternary mixtures is strongly affected by the length of the FFA. We found the formation of phase-separated crystalline lipid domains when using palmitic acid whereas the use of lignoceric acid results in a more homogeneous mixture. In addition, it was observed that mixtures with lignoceric acid form a gel phase, a very unusual feature for SC model mixtures.

Interaction of fengycin with stratum corneum mimicking model membranes: a calorimetry study

Based on its outstanding antifungal properties, it is reasonable to believe that fengycin might be efficient to topically treat localized dermatomycoses. Since most of the fungi species involved in the formation of those mycotic skin diseases colonize primarily the stratum corneum (SC), studying the interaction between fengycin and SC-mimicking lipid membranes is a primary step to determine the potential of fengycin to overcome the physical barrier of the skin. In this respect, multilamellar lipid vesicles (MLVs), with a lipid composition mimicking that of the SC, were prepared and characterized by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). The critical micelle concentration (CMC) of fengycin was also assessed under skin conditions and found to be 1.2±0.1μM. The molecular interactions of fengycin with SC-mimicking MLVs were investigated by both DSC and isothermal titration calorimetry (ITC). Results showed that the interactions were considerably affected by changes in lipid phase behaviour. At 40°C and below, fengycin induced exothermic changes in the lipid structures suggesting that less-ordered lipid domains became more-ordered in presence of fengycin. At 60°C, clearly endothermic interaction enthalpies were observed, which could arise from the "melting" of remaining solid domains enriched in high melting lipids that without fengycin melt at higher temperatures.

The effect of the chain length distribution of free fatty acids on the mixing properties of stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC) plays a fundamental role in the barrier function of the skin. The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. The main lipid classes in the lipid matrix are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). The aim of this study was to examine the effect of the chain length of FFAs on the thermotropic phase behavior and mixing properties of SC lipids. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and Raman imaging spectroscopy were used to study the mixing properties using either protonated or deuterated FFAs. We selected SC model lipid mixtures containing only a single CER, CHOL and either a single FFA or a mixture of FFAs mimicking the FFA SC composition. The single CER consists of a sphingoid base with 18 carbon atoms and an acyl chain with a chain length of 24 carbon atoms. When using lignoceric acid (24 carbon atoms) or a mixture of FFAs, the CER and FFAs participated in mixed crystals, but hydration of the mixtures induced a slight phase separation between CER and FFA. The mixed crystalline structures did not phase separate during storage even up to a time period of 3months. When using palmitic acid (16 carbon atoms), a slight phase separation was observed between FFA and CER. This phase separation was clearly enhanced during hydration and storage. In conclusion, the thermotropic phase behavior and the mixing properties of the SC lipid mixtures were shown to strongly depend on the chain length and chain length distribution of FFAs, while hydration enhanced the phase separation.

The important role of stratum corneum lipids for the cutaneous barrier function

The skin protects the body from unwanted influences from the environment as well as excessive water loss. The barrier function of the skin is located in the stratum corneum (SC). The SC consists of corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix. This lipid matrix is crucial for the lipid skin barrier function. This paper provides an overview of the reported SC lipid composition and organization mainly focusing on healthy and diseased human skin. In addition, an overview is provided on the data describing the relation between lipid modulations and the impaired skin barrier function. Finally, the use of in vitro lipid models for a better understanding of the relation between the lipid composition, lipid organization and skin lipid barrier is discussed. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. This article is part of a Special Issue entitled The Important Role of Lipids in the Epidermis and their Role in the Formation and Maintenance of the Cutaneous Barrier. Guest Editors: Kenneth R. Feingold and Peter Elias.

Electron diffraction study of lipids in non-lesional stratum corneum of atopic eczema patients

Skin barrier impairment is thought to be an important factor in the pathogenesis of atopic eczema (AE). The skin barrier is located in the stratum corneum (SC), consisting of corneocytes embedded in lipids. Ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids are the major lipid classes and are crucial for the skin barrier function, but their role in relation to AE is indistinct. Filaggrin is an epidermal barrier protein and common mutations in the filaggrin gene strongly predispose for AE. However, there is no strong evidence that filaggrin mutations are related to the reduced skin barrier in AE. In this study, electron diffraction is used in order to study the lipid organization of control SC and non-lesional SC of AE patients in vivo. An increased presence of the hexagonal lipid organization was observed in non-lesional SC of AE patients, indicating a less dense lipid organization. These changes correlate with a reduced skin barrier function as measured with transepidermal water loss but do not correlate with the presence of filaggrin mutations. These results are indicative for the importance of the lipid organization for a proper skin barrier function.

Regenerated keratin membrane to match the in vitro drug diffusion through human epidermis

This work aimed to develop membranes made of regenerated keratin and ceramides (CERs) to match the barrier property of the human stratum corneum in in vitro percutaneous absorption studies. The membrane composition was optimized on the basis of the in vitro drug diffusion profiles of ibuprofen, propranolol and testosterone chosen as model drugs on the basis of their different diffusion and solubility properties. The data were compared to those obtained using human epidermis.

The ATR-FTIR and SEM analyses revealed that CERs were suspended into the regenerated keratin matrix, even if a partial solubilization occurred. It resulted in the membranes being physically stable after exposure to aqueous buffer and/or mineral oil and the fluxes of ibuprofen and propranolol from these vehicles through membranes and human skin were of the same order of magnitude. The best relationship with human epidermis data was obtained with 180 μm-thick membrane containing 1% ceramide III and 1% ceramide VI. The data on the testosterone diffusion were affected by the exposure of the membrane to a water/ethanol solution over a prolonged period of time, indicating that such an organic solvent was able to modify the supermolecular organization of keratin and CERs.

The keratin/CER membranes can represent a simplified model to assay the in vitro skin permeability study of small molecules.

Disposition of ceramide in model lipid membranes determined by neutron diffraction

The lipid matrix present in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, plays a crucial role in the skin barrier function. The lipids are organized into two lamellar phases. To gain more insight into the molecular organization of one of these lamellar phases, we performed neutron diffraction studies. In the diffraction pattern, five diffraction orders were observed attributed to a lamellar phase with a repeat distance of 5.4 nm. Using contrast variation, the scattering length density profile could be calculated showing a typical bilayer arrangement. To obtain information on the arrangement of ceramides in the unit cell, a mixture that included a partly deuterated ceramide was also examined. The scattering length density profile of the 5.4-nm phase containing this deuterated ceramide demonstrated a symmetric arrangement of the ceramides with interdigitating acyl chains in the center of the unit cell.

Investigating the barrier function of skin lipid models with varying compositions

The lipids in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play an important role in the barrier function. The main lipid classes in stratum corneum are ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. In previous publications, a lipid model was presented, referred to as the stratum corneum substitute (SCS), that closely mimics the SC lipid organization and SC barrier function. In the present study, we use the SCS to study the effect of changes in lipid organization on the lipid barrier function using benzoic acid as permeation compound. First, in the SCS, we increased the level of one of the three major lipid classes keeping the ratio between the other lipid classes constant. An increased cholesterol level resulted in an increase in phase-separated cholesterol and a reduction in the permeability. An increase in ceramide or free fatty acid level resulted in the formation of additional phases, but had no significant influence on the permeability. We also examined models that mimic selected changes in lipid composition reported for dry or diseased skin. The SCS that mimics the composition in recessive X-linked ichthyosis skin displayed a twofold increase in permeability. This increase is possibly related to the formation of an additional, less ordered phase in this model.

Vibrational spectroscopy of biomembranes

Vibrational spectroscopy, commonly associated with IR absorption and Raman scattering, has provided a powerful approach for investigating interactions between biomolecules that make up cellular membranes. Because the IR and Raman signals arise from the intrinsic properties of these molecules, vibrational spectroscopy probes the delicate interactions that regulate biomembranes with minimal perturbation. Numerous innovative measurements, including nonlinear optical processes and confined bilayer assemblies, have provided new insights into membrane behavior. In this review, we highlight the use of vibrational spectroscopy to study lipid-lipid interactions. We also examine recent work in which vibrational measurements have been used to investigate the incorporation of peptides and proteins into lipid bilayers, and we discuss the interactions of small molecules and drugs with membrane structures. Emerging techniques and measurements on intact cellular membranes provide a prospective on the future of vibrational spectroscopic studies of biomembranes.

Is an orthorhombic lateral packing and a proper lamellar organization important for the skin barrier function?

The lipid organization in the stratum corneum (SC), plays an important role in the barrier function of the skin. SC lipids form two lamellar phases with a predominantly orthorhombic packing. In previous publications a lipid model was presented, referred to as the stratum corneum substitute (SCS), that closely mimics the SC lipid organization and barrier function. Therefore, the SCS serves as a unique tool to relate lipid organization with barrier function. In the present study we examined the effect of the orthorhombic to hexagonal phase transition on the barrier function of human SC and SCS. In addition, the SCS was modified by changing the free fatty acid composition, resulting in a hexagonal packing and perturbed lamellar organization. By measuring the permeability to benzoic acid as function of temperature, Arrhenius plots were constructed from which activation energies were calculated. The results suggest that the change from orthorhombic to hexagonal packing in human SC and SCS, does not have an effect on the permeability. However, the modified SCS revealed an increased permeability to benzoic acid, which we related to its perturbed lamellar organization. Thus, a proper lamellar organization is more crucial for a competent barrier function than the presence of an orthorhombic lateral packing.