Exploring the antioxidant potentiality of two food by-products into a topical cream: stability, in vitro and in vivo evaluation

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Chlorogenic Acids and Caffeine from Coffee By-Products: A Review on Skincare Applications

Upcycling is a modern trend in the cosmetic sector, focusing on by-products reuse and waste reduction. Consumers are more aware of the origin of cosmetic products and their environmental impact, promoting the upcycling phenomenon. Converting these raw materials into products of higher quality or value contributes to the final product’s sustainability. In fact, several agri-food by-products that are typically discarded have generated great interest, due to their value-added compounds with high functionality and/or bioactivity. Coffee is well known as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly due to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids, and caffeine. Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth. Chlorogenic acids are powerful antioxidants and exhibit anti-aging and photoprotector abilities. Coffee by-products, such as coffee beans, possess these bioactive compounds and other chemical characteristics that can provide functional properties in cosmetic formulations. Coffee silverskin and spent coffee grounds are high-volume by-products of the coffee industry. Their use has been explored in different cosmetic formulations demonstrating safety, stability, acceptability as well as skin improvement, thus supporting their valorization as natural and sustainable new ingredients in skincare products.

Valorization of Juglans regia Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development

The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from Juglans regia by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing J. regia leaf extract. The extract’s antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 ± 0.04 mg/g), quercetin-O-pentoside (9.64 ± 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3-O-glucoside (6.70 ± 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 µg/mL. Within Proteus vulgaris-infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 µg/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photo-irritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored.

Scientometric Overview of Coffee By-Products and Their Applications

As coffee consumption is on the rise, and the global coffee production creates an excess of 23 million tons of waste per year, a revolutionary transition towards a circular economy via the transformation and valorization of the main by-products from its cultivation and preparation (Coffee Husk (CH), Coffee Pulp (CP), Coffee Silverskin (CS), and Spent Coffee Grounds (SCG)) is inspiring researchers around the world. The recent growth of scholarly publications in the field and the emerging applications of coffee by-products published in these scientific papers encourages a systematic review to identify the knowledge structure, research hotspots, and to discuss the challenges and future directions. This paper displays a comprehensive scientometric analysis based on 108 articles with a high level of influence in the field of coffee by-products and their applications. According to our analysis, the research in this field shows an explosive growth since 2017, clustered in five core applications: bioactive compounds, microbial transformation, environmental applications, biofuels from thermochemical processes, and construction materials.

Development, Characterization, and Clinical Investigation of a New Topical Emulsion System Containing a Castanea sativa Spiny Burs Active Extract

The study focused on the development and characterization of an O/W emulsion for skincare containing Castanea sativa spiny burs extract (CSE) as functional agent. The emulsion was stable and had suitable physicochemical and technological properties for dermal application and CSE showed no cytotoxicity in spontaneously immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) at active concentrations. A single-blind, placebo-controlled, monocentric study was designed to evaluate the skin tolerability and the skin performance of the CSE-loaded emulsion on healthy human volunteers. An improvement was observed in skin biomechanical properties such as hydration, skin elasticity and a reduction in the periorbital wrinkles in 30 days without altering the skin barrier function, sebum, pH, and erythema values. A significant skin moisturizing effect was detected while the skin barrier function was preserved. The selected natural ingredient combined with the designed formulation and the optimized preparation method has led to a final product that satisfies the physico-chemical and technological requirements underlying the safety of use and the formulative stability over time. With no negative skin reactions and highly significant effects on skin elasticity, wrinkles, and moisturization, the CSE-based emulsion achieved very satisfying outcomes representing a promising functional formulation for skin care.

Green coffee: economic relevance and a systematic review of the effects on human health

Coffee is probably the most popular beverage after water and is an important component in diet and health since its consumption is high worldwide. Globally, it is the most relevant food commodity being just behind crude oil. Besides its pleasant flavor, it is an antioxidant source due to polyphenols, which are protective compounds against several diseases. This study aimed to evaluate the economic relevance and perform a systematic review of green coffee's effects on human health. Databases such as MEDLINE-PubMed, EMBASE, COCHRANE, and GOOGLE SCHOLAR were searched, and PRISMA guidelines were followed. Green coffee is considered a novel food product because consumers usually consume only roasted coffee. It can be marketed as such or as an extract. Due to the content of bioactive compounds, which are partially lost during the roasting process, the extracts are usually marketed concerning the potential regarding health effects. Green coffee can be used as dietary supplements, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals, as a source of antioxidants. It can benefit human health, such as improvement in blood pressure, plasma lipids, and body weight (thus contributing to the improvement of risk components of Metabolic Syndrome). Moreover, benefits for cognitive functions may also be included.

Lightening Effect of Skin Lightening Cream Containing Piper betle L. Extract in Human Volunteers

Hyperpigmentation affects people globally with negative psychological impacts. Piper betle L. leaf (PBL) extract has many benefits including skin lightening which may reduce hyperpigmentation. The objective of this study was to develop an effective skin-lightening cream containing PBL with ideal characteristics. A formulation of base cream and PBL cream was prepared and characterized by centrifugation, particle size and zeta potential analysis, rheological profile studies and physical properties’ observation. In vivo studies on 30 human subjects tested the effects of base and PBL cream on skin-lightening, hydration, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and elasticity through weekly tests 4 weeks in duration. Base and PBL creams had a non-Newtonian property with acceptable color, odor, texture, zeta potential, particle size and showed no phase separation. The in vivo study indicated a significant reduction in melanin content and an improvement in skin tone for PBL cream but not in base cream. TEWL and elasticity also showed significant reduction for both formulations, indicating a healthier skin barrier and supple skin with consistent use, although hydration fluctuated with no significant changes. The developed PBL cream showed significant results in the reduction in melanin content and improving skin tone, which shows the formulation can confer skin-lightening effect.

Applications of Compounds from Coffee Processing By-Products

To obtain the coffee beverage, approximately 90% of the edible parts of the coffee cherry are discarded as agricultural waste or by-products (cascara or husk, parchment, mucilage, silverskin and spent coffee grounds). These by-products are a potential source of nutrients and non-nutrient health-promoting compounds, which can be used as a whole ingredient or as an enriched extract of a specific compound. The chemical composition of by-products also determines food safety of the novel ingredients. To ensure the food safety of coffee by-products to be used as novel ingredients for the general consumer population, pesticides, mycotoxins, acrylamide and gluten must be analyzed. According with the priorities proposed by the Food Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) to maximize the benefit for the environment, society and economy, food waste generation should be avoided in the first place. In this context, the valorization of food waste can be carried out through an integrated bio-refinery approach to produce nutrients and bioactive molecules for pharmaceutical, cosmetic, food and non-food applications. The present research is an updated literature review of the definition of coffee by-products, their composition, safety and those food applications which have been proposed or made commercially available to date based on their chemical composition.

Natural Formulations Provide Antioxidant Complement to Hyaluronic Acid-Based Topical Applications Used in Wound Healing

Hyaluronic acid (HA) promotes wound healing, and, accordingly, formulations based on HA have been widely used in regenerative medicine. In addition, naturally derived compounds, e.g., plant-based extracts and vitamin E, have exhibited antioxidant activity. In this study, a formulation containing hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, raspberry extract, and green tea was developed for potential topical applications, targeting wound healing. Rheological analysis was performed along with antioxidant and biological studies. The rheological characterization showed that the HA-based formulation is a thixotropic platform and possesses higher mechanical properties than the control formulation. To evaluate the wound healing potential of the formulation, an in vitro “wound healing” assay was carried out using human derived fibroblasts (HDF) with a cell-free gap on the tissue culture dish. The formulation showed better wound healing ability than the control formulation.

Microencapsulation of Rambutan Peel Extract by Spray Drying

Microencapsulation of bioactive compounds (BC) from rambutan peel by spray drying using DE10 maltodextrin as encapsulating agent was performed. The optimal conditions for the ethanolic extraction of BC were 60 °C, with a time of 1 h, 55% aqueous ethanol and three extraction cycles. The best spray drying encapsulating conditions for BC and antioxidant capacity (AC) were: inlet temperature 160 °C, outlet temperature 80 °C, and 10% encapsulating agent concentration in the feeding solution (core:encapsulating agent ratio of 1:4). With these conditions, retention and encapsulation efficiencies obtained were higher than 85%, the water activity value, moisture content and Hausner Index were of 0.25 ± 0.01, 3.95 ± 0.10%, and 1.42 ± 0.00, respectively. The optimized powder presented good solubility and morphological properties, showing microcapsules without ruptures. Based on these results, microencapsulation by spray drying is a viable technique which protects BC of rambutan peel, facilitating its application in the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries.

Vine-Canes as a Source of Value-Added Compounds for Cosmetic Formulations

The majority of works about vine-canes are focused on the evaluation of their chemical composition and antioxidant potential. To the best of our knowledge, the possible applications of produced extracts in cosmetic formulations have never been explored. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the antioxidant properties of vine-canes subcritical water extracts for use as active ingredients in the cosmetic industry. For that, the phenolic content and antioxidant activity of six vine-cane varieties, namely Alvarinho and Loureiro from the Minho region and Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz (TR) from both the Douro and Dão regions, were evaluated through spectrophotometric and chromatographic methods. All extracts presented similar antioxidant activity and the highest phenolic content was reported for TR variety from the Douro region (33.7 ± 1.9 mg GAE/g dw). The capacity of vine-cane extracts to capture reactive oxygen species superoxide (O₂^-) was also studied, with the highest IC₅₀ value being obtained for Loureiro variety (56.68 ± 2.60 µg/mL). Furthermore, no adverse effects on HaCaT and HFF-1 dermal cell lines in concentrations below 100 and 1000 µg/mL, respectively, were determined. Finally, Loureiro vine-cane extract was incorporated into a topical formulation, and physical and microbiological properties were within expected values, demonstrating that vine-canes extracts can be successfully incorporated in cosmetic products.

Renewable sources: applications in personal care formulations

A global tendency for products considered environmentally sustainable, and ecologically obtained led the industry related to personal care formulations to fund the research and the development of personal care/cosmetics containing ingredients from natural resources. Furthermore, consumers are aware of environmental and sustainability issueans, thus not harming the environment represents a key consideration when developing a new cosmetic ingredient. In this study we review some examples of active ingredients or raw materials used in cosmetics/personal care/biomedical products that are coming from either through biotechnological systems, or as byproducts of several industries. A skin formulation containing biosynthetic actives, prepared by us and the study regarding its dermocosmetic properties are also described. The need for the standardization processes, the safety assessment tools, the improvement of the exploitation methods of these renewable sources in order the production to be ecologically and economically better are also discussed.

Sugar and mineral enriched fraction from olive mill wastewater for promising cosmeceutical application: characterization, in vitro and in vivo studies

Nowadays, agro-food by-products represent a potential low-cost source of biologically active ingredients which have been paid significant attention as nutraceuticals, medicine, food and cosmetics. In a previous study we evaluated the total sugars, metals and polyphenols of olive mill wastewater (OMWW) from a Cerasuola olive cultivar. In the present work we selectively recovered a sugar and mineral enriched fraction (SMEF) from Cerasuola OMWW by a green adsorption/desorption process. The SMEF was mainly found to be composed of monosaccharides and potassium by HPLC-ELSD and ICP-MS. The in vitro cytotoxicity on human fibroblasts, at different concentrations of the fraction, was investigated by MTT and comet assays. In addition, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, apoptosis and cell morphological changes were examined. The physical stability of a formulation containing the SMEF (1% w/w) and its in vivo skin effects were also assessed.Our results highlighted that the SMEF showed a toxic effect at higher concentrations (i.e. cell viability reduction, DNA fragmentation and morphological alterations) well correlated with high ROS levels. Conversely, at low concentrations (0.5% and 1% w/w), no significant changes were observed. For the first time, through stability studies and in vivo tests, we also demonstrated that the SMEF formulation is stable and safe for topical application, since skin hydration improvement without negative effects was observed after 7 days of its use. Therefore, the SMEF has great potential to be used for cosmeceutical applications.

Coffee Silverskin: A Review on Potential Cosmetic Applications

Coffee silverskin, the major coffee-roasting by-product, is currently used as fuel and for soil fertilization. However, there are several studies reporting silverskin as a good source of bioactive compounds that can be extracted and further used by cosmetic industry. Its high antioxidant potential may be due to the synergistic interaction of chlorogenic acids (1–6%), caffeine (0.8–1.25%), and melanoidins (17–23%), among other antioxidant compounds. The bioactive compounds of silverskin can answer to the new fields of cosmetic industry on natural active ingredient resources that improve health skin appearance, counteract skin aging and related diseases, in an environmentally friendly approach. Skin aging is a complex process associated with oxidative metabolism and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. ROS production increase matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), as well as pro-inflammatory mediators, resulting in consequent skin damage and aging. To counteract this process, cosmetic industry is looking for compounds able to increase MMP inhibitory activities, hyaluronidase inhibitory activity, expression of collagen and elastase inhibitory activity, as potential bioactive ingredients with anti-aging purposes. This review focuses on skin aging factors and the potential anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-cellulite and anti-hair loss activity, as well as protection against UV damage, of coffee silverskin and their bioactive compounds.

UHPLC-PDA-ESI-TOF/MS metabolic profiling and antioxidant capacity of arabica and robusta coffee silverskin: Antioxidants vs phytotoxins

A deeper knowledge of the chemical composition of coffee silverskin (CS) is needed due to the growing interest in its use as a food additive or an ingredient of dietary supplements. Accordingly, the aim of this paper was to investigate the metabolic profile of aqueous extracts of two varieties of CS, Coffee arabica (CS-A), Coffee canephora var. robusta (CS-R) and of a blend of the two (CS-b) and to compare it to the profile of Coffee arabica green coffee (GC). Chlorogenic acids, caffeine, furokauranes, and atractyligenins, phytotoxins not previously detected in CS, were either identified or tentatively assigned. An unknown compound, presumably a carboxyatractyligenin glycoside was detected only in GC. Caffeine and chlorogenic acids were quantified while the content of furokauranes and atractyligens was estimated. GC and CS were also characterized in terms of total polyphenols and antioxidant capacity. Differences in the metabolites distribution, polyphenols and antioxidant capacity in GC and CS were detailed.