Portocarrero Huang G, Idkowiak-Baldys J, Liebel F, Jones C, Haxaire C, DiNatale L, Bayat A, Glynn JR. L-4-thiazolylalanine (Protinol), a novel non-proteinogenic amino acid, demonstrates epidermal and dermal efficacy with clinically observable benefits.
Int J Cosmet Sci 2024;
46:24-38. [PMID:
37562497 DOI:
10.1111/ics.12887]
[Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/30/2023] [Revised: 07/11/2023] [Accepted: 07/28/2023] [Indexed: 08/12/2023]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE
Facial skin undergoes major structural and functional changes as a result of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. The goal of the current work is to demonstrate L-4-thiazolylalaine (L4, Protinol), a non-proteinogenic amino acid shown to stimulate the production of dermal proteins by fibroblasts, is an alternative efficacious topical ingredient for visible signs of ageing.
METHODS
In vitro studies using 3D human skin tissue models were performed to show changes in protein and gene expression of key dermal markers in samples treated with 0.3% L4 compared to vehicle control. In vivo evaluation of skin turnover was measured in volunteers after treatment with L4 compared to retinol. Skin biopsies (n = 30) were taken to investigate epidermal and dermal changes in cases treated with L4 and compared to retinol. Finally, a clinical evaluation (n = 28) was conducted to assess the efficacy of L4 over a base formulation using various ageing parameters within a population of women 46-66 years old with mild-to-moderate wrinkles.
RESULTS
In vitro studies on 3D tissues displayed significant changes in the dermal matrix via an increase in HA and pro-collagen I production and a decrease in the expression of inflammatory genes. In vivo biopsy studies demonstrated that L4 and retinol independently increased epidermal thickness and collagen remodelling significantly more compared with the base formula. Clinical evaluation showed firmer and smoother skin at day 28 post-treatment with L4 over the vehicle control without causing side effects such as redness or irritation.
CONCLUSION
L4 is a novel, multi-functional ingredient which offers a superior alternative to currently available technologies for improving epidermal and dermal parameters that change during ageing and photodamage.
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