Bai XD, Fei WC, Liu YC, Yang SP. Enzymatically modified isoquercitrin and its protective effects against photoaging: In-vitro and clinical studies.
Photochem Photobiol 2024. [PMID:
38185856 DOI:
10.1111/php.13891]
[Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/20/2023] [Revised: 10/23/2023] [Accepted: 11/07/2023] [Indexed: 01/09/2024]
Abstract
This research examines the anti-aging potential of the flavonoid derivative of isoquercitrin known as enzymatically modified isoquercitrin (EMIQ). Initial HPLC analyses showed that EMIQ used in the study contained 1-12 glucosides and 10.7% pentahydroxyflavonoids, promising potent antioxidant properties. In subsequent in-vitro studies with UVA-exposed human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa), EMIQ demonstrated protective properties by reducing collagen damage. It modulated both the TGFβ/Smad pathway and the MMP1 pathway, contributing to collagen preservation. This protective effect was further confirmed using the T-Skin™ model, a reconstructed full-thickness human skin model, which illustrated that EMIQ could defend the physiological structures of both the epidermis and dermis against UV radiation. A 28-day clinical trial with 30 volunteers aged 31-55 years highlighted EMIQ's effectiveness. Participants using EMIQ-containing Essence displayed reduced facial trans-epidermal water loss and skin roughness, alongside improved skin elasticity. This study emphasizes EMIQ's potential as an anti-photoaging ingredient in cosmetics, warranting further research. The findings pave the way for developing innovative skincare products addressing photoaging effects.
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