The Age Factor in the Cosmetic Management of Biophysical Skin Parameters

Effects of a leave-on product on the strength of the dermoepidermal junction: An exploratory, intraindividual, randomized controlled trial in older adults with dry skin

Background and Aims

Skin aging is associated with dry skin and a decrease of the strength of the dermoepidermal adhesion, which increases the risk for lacerations (skin tears). Application of leave-on products improves dry skin and seems to reduce skin tear incidence. The aim of this study was to measure the effects of a humectant containing leave-on product on the strength of the dermoepidermal junction in older adult participants with dry skin.

Methods

A randomized controlled trial using a split body design was conducted. One forearm was randomly selected and treated with a lipophilic leave-on product containing 5% urea for 8 weeks. The other forearm was the control. The parameters stratum corneum hydration (SCH), transepidermal water loss, pH, roughness, epidermal thickness and skin stiffness were measured at the baseline, Weeks 4 and 8. At Week 8, suction blisters were created and time to blistering was measured. Blister roofs and interstitial fluid were analyzed for Interleukin-1α, 6 and 8.

Results

Twelve participants were included. After 8 weeks treatment, SCH was higher (median difference 11.6 AU), and the overall dry skin score (median difference -1) and median roughness (Rz difference -12.2 µm) were lower compared to the control arms. The median group difference for Interleukin-1α was -452 fg/µg total protein (TP) in the blister roofs and -2.2 fg/µg TP in the blister fluids. The median time to blister formation was 7.7 min higher compared to the control arms.

Conclusion

The regular application of humectant containing leave-on products improves dry skin and seems to lower inflammation and contribute to the strengthening of the dermoepidermal adhesion. This partly explains how the use of topical leave-on products helps to prevent skin tears.

Collagen Hydrolysate Prepared from Chicken By-Product as a Functional Polymer in Cosmetic Formulation

Chicken stomachs can be processed into collagen hydrolysate usable in cosmetic products. The aim of the study was to verify the effects of a carbopol gel formulation enriched with 1.0% (w/w) chicken hydrolysate on the properties of the skin in the periorbital area after regular application twice a day for eight weeks in volunteers ageed 50 ± 9 years. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity and skin relief were evaluated. Overall, skin hydration increased by 11.82% and 9.45%, TEWL decreased by 25.70% and 17.80% (always reported for the right and left area). Generally, there was an increase in skin elasticity, a decrease in skin roughness, as the resonance times decreased by 85%. The average reduction of wrinkles was 35.40% on the right and 41.20% on the left. For all results, it can be seen that the longer the cosmetic gel formulation is applied, the better the results. Due to the positive effect on the quality and functionality of the skin, it is possible to apply the cosmetic gel formulation in the periorbital area. The advantage of the product with chicken collagen hydrolysate is also the biocompatibility with the skin and the biodegradability of the formulation.