In Vitro Methodologies to Evaluate the Effects of Hair Care Products on Hair Fiber

Comparison on Quality Performance of Human Hair Types with Herbal Oils (Grape Seed/Safflower Seed/Rosehip) by Analysis Techniques

Hair is exposed to harmful factors such as sunlight, pollution, cosmetic applications, and cleaning every day. With lost moisture, the hair is worn out, loses shine, and exhibits color changes in the case of dyed hair. In this study, the effects of herbal oils on hair were investigated by comparing the properties with measurements. Three different types of hair were used: natural (unprocessed), damaged, and dyed hair. After washing hair with a base shampoo, herbal oils were applied, and brightness, color changes, elasticity, and breaking points were examined. Safflower seed oil, grape seed oil, and rosehip oil were applied to the samples. It was tried to regain the properties that have decreased as a result of shampoo application in the hair with the applied oils. The highest gloss was observed with grape seed oil, and according to color change calculations, the best result was seen with safflower seed oil. Tensile-strain testing was performed for all samples, and rosehip oil gave the best results. The changes in hair fractures were examined with a scanning electron microscope, and grape seed oil was the best for all hair types. When all analyses were evaluated, the best performing herbal oil was grape seed oil. All analysis results showed that herbal oils can be used in the cosmetics industry with different applications.

A method to measure oil penetration into hair and correlation to tensile strength

Aim:

The aim of this study is to identify a new method to measure oil penetration into hair, compare penetration ability of two types of oil: Type 3 hair oil and coconut oil into the hair shaft and explore its correlation to a physical property of hair, tensile strength.

Materials and Methods:

The study utilizes the measurements of two parameters, thickness, and cohesive force to define penetration of oil. The hypothesis was that an increase in hair fiber thickness along with reduction in cohesive force would indicate higher penetration of oil into the hair strand. The tensile strength of hair was then determined by measuring the behavior of treated hair strands while an axial stretching load was applied.

Results:

In experiment of hair thickness measurement, there was a significant increase in the hair fiber thickness post oil application in both the test oils as compared to baseline (untreated control). However, this increase was higher in hair swatches treated with Type 3 hair oil. For cohesive force measurement, significantly lower force was required for hair swatches treated with Type 3 hair oil when compared to coconut oil. For tensile strength, both test oils exhibited increase versus baseline but increase in tensile strength was significantly more with type 3 hair oil when compared to coconut oil.

Conclusions:

The present study shows that conjoint assessment of hair thickness and cohesive force post oil application can be a suitable method to indicate the extent of oil penetration into the hair. Overall, the study indicated the positive influence of oil penetration on hair strength.

Flexabrasion Applied to the Evaluation of the Photodegradation of Hair Fibers

Solar radiation is a significant source of damage to hair fibers. However, the instrumental measurement of the consequences of its interaction with hair fibers’ constituents remains a challenge. In this work, the flexabrasion methodology was investigated as a potential tool to quantify the damage to mechanical hair properties caused by solar rays. The in vitro experiment developed for this study simulated four initial conditions of human hair samples, which subsequently underwent different periods of exposure to the radiation emitted by a Xenon arc lamp source. The statistical analysis of the results characterized the methodology’s ability to evaluate the impact of solar radiation on the hair’s mechanical resistance. More evident effects were observed on natural fibers subjected to exposures of up to 60 h and over, corresponding to about 1.5 h per day of sun exposure in Rio de Janeiro over five months. The results point to flexabrasion as an option to evaluate the photoprotection efficacy offered by hair-care products.

The Use of Calcium Phosphates in Cosmetics, State of the Art and Future Perspectives

Calcium phosphates (CaPs) belong to a class of biomimetic materials widely employed for medical applications thanks to their excellent properties, such as biodegradability, biocompatibility and osteoinductivity. The recent trend in the cosmetics field of substituting potentially hazardous materials with natural, safe, and sustainable ingredients for the health of consumers and for the environment, as well as the progress in the materials science of academics and chemical industries, has opened new perspectives in the use of CaPs in this field. While several reviews have been focused on the applications of CaP-based materials in medicine, this is the first attempt to catalogue the properties and use of CaPs in cosmetics. In this review a brief introduction on the chemical and physical characteristics of the main CaP phases is given, followed by an up-to-date report of their use in cosmetics through a large literature survey of research papers and patents. The application of CaPs as agents in oral care, skin care, hair care, and odor control has been selected and extensively discussed, highlighting the correlation between the chemical, physical and toxicological properties of the materials with their final applications. Finally, perspectives on the main challenges that should be addressed by the scientific community and cosmetics companies to widen the application of CaPs in cosmetics are given.

Protective effect of conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye

BACKGROUND

Hair coloring is broadly used by women and men either to change their natural hair color or to delay the onset of gray hair. Oxidative dyes may damage the hair, as chemical and physical processes are required to convert the fiber structure and, consequently, alterations in its mechanical and surface properties.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to evaluate the protective effect of silanetriol (and) Panthenol, PEG-12 dimethicone, and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose as conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye by protein loss, combability, and breaking strength.

METHODS

In this research, we analyzed the untreated hair (sample I) and the effect of oxidative hair dye emulsions, with or without conditioner agents (sample II) silanetriol (and) Panthenol (sample III), PEG-12 dimethicone (sample IV), and hydrolyzed silk (and) hydrolyzed milk protein (and) lactose (sample V) on Caucasian hair. The hair samples were submitted to protein loss quantification, breaking strength, and combing analysis.

RESULTS

For protein loss, the results were: II^a  = V^a  > IV^b  > III^c  > I^d . For the breaking strength: I^e  = II^e  = III^e  = IV^e  = V^e . For the combing analysis for wet and dry hair, the results were, respectively: II^a  > III^b  = IV^b  > V^c  > I^d and II^A  > III^b  = V^b  > IV ^c = I^c . Data classified by different letters presented statistically significant alterations, α = 5, P ≤ . 05, n = 15.

CONCLUSIONS

Based on these results, the incorporation of conditioner agents into emulsion blond color decreased the damage caused by the coloring process.