Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts as Valuable Ingredients in Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Kombucha as a Potential Active Ingredient in Cosmetics-An Ex Vivo Skin Permeation Study

Kombucha is a non-alcoholic beverage, that is increasingly used in the cosmetic industry. The available literature reports the positive effects of kombucha on the skin, in particular its antioxidant action. However, there is a lack of information on skin permeation and the accumulation of active ingredients showing such effects. Skin aging is largely dependent on oxidative stress, therefore in our study we assessed the ex vivo permeation of two types of kombucha (green and black tea) through porcine skin. The antioxidant activity (DPPH, ABTS, FRAP methods) and total polyphenol content of these extracts were determined before and after permeation testing. Moreover, the content of selected phenolic acids as well as caffeine was assessed. Skin permeation was determined using a Franz diffusion cell. The antioxidant activity of both Kombuchas was found to be high. In addition, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, protocatechuic acid, coumaric acid, m-hydroxybenzoic acid, and caffeine were identified. A 24-h ex vivo study showed the permeation of some phenolic acids and caffeine and their accumulation in the skin. Our results confirm the importance of studying the skin permeation of what are still little known ingredients in cosmetic preparations. Evaluation of the accumulation of these ingredients can guarantee the efficacy of such preparations.

Investigation of Epilobium hirsutum L. Optimized Extract's Anti-Inflammatory and Antitumor Potential

Epilobium hirsutum L., commonly known as hairy willowherb, is a perennial herbaceous plant native to Europe and Asia. In Romania, the Epilobium genus includes 17 species that are used in folk medicine for various purposes. This study aimed to investigate the anti-inflammatory and antitumor potential of the optimized extract of Epilobium hirsutum (EH) in animal models. The first study investigated the anti-inflammatory properties of EH optimized extract and the model used was carrageenan-induced paw inflammation. Wistar rats were divided into three groups: negative control, positive control treated with indomethacin, and a group treated with the extract. Oxidative stress markers, cytokine levels, and protein expressions were assessed. The extract demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties comparable to those of the control group. In the second study, the antitumor effects of the extract were assessed using the tumor model of Ehrlich ascites carcinoma. Swiss albino mice with Ehrlich ascites were divided into four groups: negative, positive treated with cyclophosphamide (Cph), Group 3 treated with Cph and EH optimized extract, and Group 4 treated with extract alone. Samples from the ascites fluid, liver, and heart were analyzed to evaluate oxidative stress, inflammation, and cancer markers. The extract showed a reduction in tumor-associated inflammation and oxidative stress. Overall, the EH optimized extract exhibited promising anti-inflammatory and antitumor effects in the animal models studied. These findings suggest its potential as a natural adjuvant therapeutic agent for addressing inflammation and oxidative stress induced by different pathologies.

Phenological Variations in the Content of Polyphenols and Triterpenoids in Epilobium angustifolium Herb Originating from Ukraine

The composition of secondary metabolites undergoes significant changes in plants depending on the growth phase and the influence of environmental factors. Therefore, it is important to determine the harvesting time of plant material for the optimum secondary metabolite profile and therapeutic activity of the primary material. The shoots of Epilobium angustifolium are used as a healing tea due to the presence of polyphenolic compounds. The aim of this study was to assess the composition of phenolic compounds and triterpenoid saponins in E. angustifolium leaves and flowers and to estimate the dynamics of their content depending on the flowering phase. Qualitative and quantitative characterisation of polyphenols and triterpenoids in E. angustifolium samples from Ukraine of three flowering phases were performed using the high-performance liquid chromatography photo diode array (HPLC-PDA) method. During the present study, 13 polyphenolic compounds and seven triterpenoids were identified in the plant material. It was noted that the largest content and the best polyphenol profile was in late flowering. The most important polyphenolic compounds in the plant material were chlorogenic acid, hyperoside, isoquercitin, and oenothein B. The triterpenoid profile was at its maximum during mass flowering, with corosolic and ursolic acids being the dominant metabolites. The results of the analysis revealed that the quantity of many of the tested metabolites in the raw material of E. angustifolium is dependent on the plant organ and flowering phase. The largest content of most metabolites in the leaves was in late flowering. In the flowers, the quantity of the metabolites studied was more variable, but decreased during mass flowering and increased significantly again in late flowering. The results show that E. angustifolium raw material is a potential source of oenothein B and triterpenoids.

Influence of Epilobium parviflorum Herbal Extract on Physicochemical Properties of Thermoplastic Starch Films

In this study, for the first time, Epilobium parviflorum Schreb. (E, hoary willowherb) aqueous extract was introduced into edible biopolymer films and its influence on physicochemical properties of the final products were investigated. Potato starch was gelatinized in the herbal tea to obtain thermoplastic starch (TPS) films via the casting method. The characterization of the films included mechanical, antioxidative, water (WVTR, contact angle, swelling degree) and UV radiation barrier properties as well as microstructure analysis (SEM). Obtained results indicated that the presence of the extract (rich in phenolic compounds) in the films acted as a co-plasticizer for starch and led to a higher elongation at break, up to 70%, with a parallel increase in tensile strength up to ca. 9 MPa. Moreover, TPS films with E exhibited lower WVTR values and absorption of UV light in comparison with the control TPS film. DPPH scavenging activity of TPS E films immersed in methanol was ca. 92%, and it was related to the release of the extract into liquid media. Novel TPS E films are characterized by multifunctional properties that can be used, e.g., in the active packaging sector.

Antibacterial and Antimycotic Activity of Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts: A Review

The aim of this work was to provide an overview of available information on the antibacterial and antifungal properties of Epilobium angustifolium extracts. A literature search of Scopus, PubMed/Medline, and Google Scholar for peer-reviewed articles published between January 2000 and June 2023 was undertaken. A total of 23 studies were eligible for inclusion in this review. Significant variation of antimicrobial activity depending on the tested species and strains, type of extract solvent, or plant organs utilized for the extract preparation was found. E. angustifolium extracts were active against both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and showed antimycotic effects against the fungi of Microsporum canis and Trichophyton tonsurans and the dermatophytes Arthroderma spp. Greater susceptibility of Gram-positive than Gram-negative bacteria to fireweed extracts was found. A strong antibacterial effect was recorded for Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus cereus, Micrococcus luteus, Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Acinetobacter baumannii including multi-drug resistant strains. E. angustifolium extract might find practical application as an antimicrobial in wound healing, components of cosmetic products for human and animals, or as food preservatives.

Chemical Characterization and Biological Evaluation of Epilobium parviflorum Extracts in an In Vitro Model of Human Malignant Melanoma

Malignant melanoma is an aggressive type of skin cancer characterised by high metastatic capacity and mortality rate. On the other hand, Epilobium parviflorum is known for its medicinal properties, including its anticancer potency. In this context, we aimed to (i) isolate various extracts of E. parviflorum, (ii) characterize their phytochemical content, and (iii) determine their cytotoxic potential in an in vitro model of human malignant melanoma. To these ends, we utilized various spectrophotometric and chromatographic (UPLC-MS/MS) approaches to document the higher content of the methanolic extract in polyphenols, soluble sugars, proteins, condensed tannins, and chlorophylls -a and -b as opposed to those of dichloromethane and petroleum. In addition, the cytotoxicity profiling of all extracts was assessed through a colorimetric-based Alamar Blue assay in human malignant melanoma (A375 and COLO-679) as well as non-tumorigenic immortalized keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells. Overall, the methanolic extract was shown to exert significant cytotoxicity, in a time- and concentration-dependent manner, as opposed to the other extracts. The observed cytotoxicity was confined only to human malignant melanoma cells, whereas non-tumorigenic keratinocyte cells remained relatively unaffected. Finally, the expression levels of various apoptotic genes were assessed by qRT-PCR, indicating the activation of both intrinsic and extrinsic apoptotic cascades.

Anticancer properties of bacterial cellulose membrane containing ethanolic extract of Epilobium angustifolium L

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a medicinal plant well known for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antioxidant, and anticancer properties related to its high polyphenols content. In the present study, we evaluated the antiproliferative properties of ethanolic extract of E. angustifolium (EAE) against normal human fibroblasts (HDF) and selected cancer cell lines, including melanoma (A375), breast (MCF7), colon (HT-29), lung (A549) and liver (HepG2). Next, bacterial cellulose (BC) membranes were applied as a matrix for the controlled delivery of the plant extract (BC-EAE) and characterized by thermogravimetry (TG), infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images. In addition, EAE loading and kinetic release were defined. Finally, the anticancer activity of BC-EAE was evaluated against the HT-29 cell line, which presented the highest sensitivity to the tested plant extract (IC₅₀ = 61.73 ± 6.42 µM). Our study confirmed the biocompatibility of empty BC and the dose and time-dependent cytotoxicity of the released EAE. The plant extract released from BC-2.5%EAE significantly reduced cell viability to 18.16% and 6.15% of the control values and increased number apoptotic/dead cells up to 37.53% and 66.90% after 48 and 72 h of treatment, respectively. In conclusion, our study has shown that BC membranes could be used as a carrier for the delivery of higher doses of anticancer compounds released in a sustained manner in the target tissue.

Epilobium Species: From Optimization of the Extraction Process to Evaluation of Biological Properties

Epilobium species are used in Romanian folk medicine as tinctures, tea, or tablets for ameliorating the symptoms of benign prostate hyperplasia (BPH), but scientific-based evidence is scarce for this species or other endemic plants of the same genus. Therefore, the aims of this research were to evaluate the phytochemical profile of five endemic Epilobium species (E. hirsutum L., E. parviflorum Schreb., E. palustre L. E. dodonaei Vill., and E. angustifolium L.) and to assess their in vitro biological activity. For enhanced recovery of polyphenols, a D-optimal experimental plan was developed using Modde software and the optimal working conditions were ultra-turrax-assisted extraction, for 8 min, with 30% ethanol in water. The optimized extracts were obtained from various plant parts and were further characterized by LC-MS analysis, with the major compound being oenothein B. All extracts demonstrated good antioxidant activity, evaluated by DPPH and TEAC assays. The most prominent antimicrobial potency of optimized extracts was displayed against Bacillus cereus, while against Gram-(+) bacteria, a moderate efficacy was observed. Furthermore, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant potential were assessed on normal fibroblasts and prostate carcinoma cell lines. From the evaluated optimized extracts, E. angustifolium aerial parts had the highest selectivity toward killing cancerous cells, followed by E. hirsutum aerial parts extract. For the antioxidant effect, E. hirsutum leaves and E. hirstum aerial parts extracts displayed the highest potency, decreasing ROS at the level observed for the positive control. The highest anti-inflammatory potential, based on the IL-6 and IL-8 levels, was displayed by E. dodonaei aerial parts and E. angustifolium leaves extracts. In conclusion, all five endemic species of Epilobium harvested from Romanian flora possess a diverse phytochemical composition, which supports complex biological activities.

New Ferulic Acid and Amino Acid Derivatives with Increased Cosmeceutical and Pharmaceutical Potential

Ferulic acid (FA) has been widely used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry due to its, inter alia, antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory effects This compound added to cosmetic preparations can protect skin because of its photoprotective activity. However, the usefulness of FA as a therapeutic agent is limited due to its low solubility and bioavailability. The paper presents the synthesis, identification, and physicochemical properties of new FA derivatives with propyl esters of three amino acids, glycine (GPr[FA]), L-leucine (LPr[FA]), and L-proline (PPr[FA]). The NMR and FTIR spectroscopy, DSC, and TG analysis were used as analytical methods. Moreover, water solubility of the new conjugates was compared with the parent acid. Both ferulic acid and its conjugates were introduced into hydrogel and emulsion, and the resulting formulations were evaluated for stability. Additionally, in vitro penetration of all studied compounds from both formulations and for comparative purposes using Franz diffusion cells was evaluated from the solution in 70% (v/v) ethanol. Finally, cytotoxicity against murine fibroblasts L929 was tested. All of the analyzed compounds permeated pig skin and accumulated in it. LPr[FA] and PPr[FA] were characterized by much better permeability compared to the parent ferulic acid. Additionally, it was shown that all the analyzed derivatives are characterized by high antioxidant activity and lack of cytotoxicity. Therefore, they can be considered as an interesting alternative to be applied in dermatologic and cosmetic preparations.

Content of sterols in in vitro propagated Chamerion angustifolium (L.) Holub plants

Introduction: Chamerion angustifolium (L.) Holub (syn. Epilobium angustifolium L.) plants have been used in the treatment and alleviating symptoms of mild Benign Prostatic Hyperplasia (BPH). Plants are abundant in polyphenols, particularly ellagitannins, phenolic acids and flavonoids. Apart from polyphenols, herb of this species also contains steroids, triterpenes and fatty acids.

Objective: The aim of this study was to determine the content of campesterol, β-sitosterol and stigmasterol in C. angustifolium genotypes cultivated in vitro.

Methods: Plants grown in vitro and the plants harvested from field were subjected to the HPLC-DAD analysis.

Results: The investigated genotypes differed in sterol content. Stigmasterol (375.64–577.77 mg/100 g of dry weight – DW) was a predominant compound among the tested sterols. In contrast to in vitro cultures, plants harvested from field synthesized mainly β-sitosterol (103.05 mg/100 g DW), whereas campesterol and stigmasterol were less abundant.

Conclusions: C. angustifolium in vitro cultures are rich source of phytosterols, particularly stigmasterol. Genotype had a significant effect on phytosterol accumulation under in vitro conditions.

Assessment of the Anti-Inflammatory, Antibacterial and Anti-Aging Properties and Possible Use on the Skin of Hydrogels Containing Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts

Epilobium angustifolium L. is an ethnomedicinal plant known as a medicinal plant in many regions of the world, among others, in various skin diseases. Despite the great interest in this plant, there are still few reports of biological activity of ready-made dermatological or cosmetical preparations containing the E. angustifolium extracts. The antioxidant, anti-ageing, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial properties and toxicity, wound healing, and skin permeation of topical hydrogels containing E. angustifolium extracts (HEas) was assessed. First, the plant extracts were prepared using three solvents: 70% (v/v) ethanol, 70% (v/v) isopropanol and water, next by preparing hydrogels witch by dry extracts (HEa-EtOH), (HEa-iPrOH) and (HEa-WA), respectively. Finally, the content of selected phenolic acids in the HEas was evaluated by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). All the HEas were characterized by high antioxidant activity. The most increased antibacterial activity was observed for a strain of Streptococcus pneumoniae ATCC 49619, Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis ATCC 29212, Enterococcus faecium, Sarcina lutea ATCC 9341 and Bacillus pseudomycoides, while the strains of Streptococcus epidermidis, Bacillus subtilis, and Staphylococcus aureus were the least sensitive. All the HEas showed a reduction in the activity of lipoxygenase enzymes, proteases, and inhibition of protein denaturation. The HEa-EtOH and HEa-iPrOH also enhanced the wound healing activity of HDF cells. Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using the Franz diffusion cells. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in E. angustifolium penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. Furthermore, the hydrogels containing E. angustifolium extracts showed a broad spectrum of activity. Therefore, they can be considered as an interesting alternative for dermatologic and cosmetic preparations.

Epilobium angustifolium L. as a Potential Herbal Component of Topical Products for Skin Care and Treatment-A Review

Epilobium angustifolium L. (EA) has been used as a topical agent since ancient times. There has been an increasing interest in applying EA as a raw material used topically in recent years. However, in the literature, there are not many reports on the comprehensive application of this plant to skin care and treatment. EA contains many valuable secondary metabolites, which determine antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and antiproliferative activity effects. One of the most important active compounds found in EA is oenothein B (OeB), which increases the level of ROS and protects cells from oxidative damage. OeB also influences wound healing and reduces inflammation by strongly inhibiting hyaluronidase enzymes and inhibiting COX-1 and COX-2 cyclooxygenases. Other compounds that play a key role in the context of application to the skin are flavonoids, which inhibit collagenase and hyaluronidase enzymes, showing anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties. While terpenes in EA play an important role in fighting bacterial skin infections, causing, among other things cell membrane, permeability increase as well as the modification of the lipid profiles and the alteration of the adhesion of the pathogen to the animal cells. The available scientific information on the biological potential of natural compounds can be the basis for the wider use of EA in skin care and treatment. The aim of the article is to review the existing literature on the dermocosmetic use of E. angustifolium.

Epilobium angustifolium L. Essential Oil-Biological Activity and Enhancement of the Skin Penetration of Drugs-In Vitro Study

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular medicinal plant found in many regions of the world. This plant contains small amounts of essential oil whose composition and properties have not been extensively investigated. There are few reports in the literature on the antioxidant and antifungal properties of this essential oil and the possibility of applying it as a potential promoter of the skin penetration of drugs. The essential oil was obtained by distillation using a Clavenger type apparatus. The chemical composition was analyzed by the GC-MS method. The major active compounds of E. angustifolium L. essential oil (EOEa) were terpenes, including α-caryophyllene oxide, eucalyptol, β-linalool, camphor, (S)-carvone, and β-caryophyllene. The analyzed essential oil was also characterized by antioxidant activity amounting to 78% RSA (Radical Scavenging Activity). Antifungal activity against the strains Aspergillus niger, A. ochraceus, A. parasiticum, and Penicillium cyclopium was also determined. The largest inhibition zone was observed for strains from the Aspergillus group. The EOEa enhanced the percutaneous penetration of ibuprofen and lidocaine. After a 24 h test, the content of terpene in the skin and the acceptor fluid was examined. It has been shown that the main compounds contained in the essential oil do not penetrate through the skin, but accumulate in it. Additionally, FTIR-ATR analysis showed a disturbance of the stratum corneum (SC) lipids caused by the essential oil application. Due to its rich composition and high biological activity, EOEa may be a potential candidate to be applied, for example, in the pharmaceutical or cosmetic industries. Moreover, due to the reaction of the essential oil components with SC lipids, the EOEa could be an effective permeation enhancer of topically applied hydrophilic and lipophilic drugs.

Natural Products and Skin Diseases

The skin is the largest multifunctional organ in the human body, serving as an excellent barrier against chemical and biological hazards [...].