Recent Advances in Herbal-Derived Products with Skin Anti-Aging Properties and Cosmetic Applications

A study of anti-wrinkle functions and improvement of cream with Phaseolus angularis

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Antiaging Effects of Topical Defensins

Topical defensins have recently gained attention as agents to improve skin composition. This study aimed to aggregate and synthesize studies in the literature assessing the effects of topical defensins on skin composition in the context of its ability to combat signs of aging.