Freezing Weakens the Barrier Function of Reconstructed Human Epidermis as Evidenced by Raman Spectroscopy and Percutaneous Permeation

Development of a novel human stratum corneum mimetic phospholipid -vesicle-based permeation assay models for in vitro permeation studies

OBJECTIVES

To develop and evaluate a novel human stratum corneum (SC) mimetic phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay (PVPASC) model for in vitro permeation studies.

SIGNIFICANCE

Due to the increasing restrictions on the use of human and animal skins, artificial skin models have attracted substantial interest in pharmaceuticals and cosmetic industries. In this study, a modified PVPASC model containing both SC lipids and proteins was developed.

METHODS

The PVPASC model was optimized by altering the lipid composition and adding keratin in the formulation of large liposomes. The barrier properties were monitored by measuring the electrical resistance (ER) and permeability of Rhodamine B (RB). The modified PVPASC model was characterized in terms of the surface topography, solvent influence and storage stability. The permeation studies of the active components in Compound Nanxing Zhitong Plaster (CNZP) were performed to examine the capability of PVPASC in the application of skin penetration.

RESULTS

The ER and Papp values of RB obtained from the optimized PVPASC model indicated a similar barrier property to porcine ear skin. Scanning electron microscope analysis demonstrated a mimic 'brick-and-mortar' structure. The PVPASC model can be stored for three weeks at -20 °C, and withstand the presence of different receptor medium for 24 h. The permeation studies of the active components demonstrated a good correlation (r2 = 0.9136) of Papp values between the drugs' permeation through the PVPASC model and porcine ear skin.

CONCLUSION

Keratin contained composite phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay models have been proven to be potential skin tools in topical/transdermal permeation studies.

Strat-M® positioning for skin permeation studies: A comparative study including EpiSkin® RHE, and human skin

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

Characterization and ex vivo evaluation of excised skin samples as substitutes for human dermal barrier in pharmaceutical and dermatological studies

BACKGROUND

Excised animal and human skins are frequently used in permeability testing in pharmaceutical research. Several factors exist that may have influence on the results. In the current study some of the skin parameters that may affect drug permeability were analysed for human, mouse, rat and pig skin.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Classic biophysical skin parameters were measured (e.g. pH, hydration, permittivity, transepidermal water loss). Physiological characteristics of the skins were also analysed by confocal Raman spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and two-photon microscopy.

RESULTS

Based on biophysical testing, skin barrier function was damaged in psoriatic mouse skin and in marketed pig skin. Hydration and pH values were similar among the species, but freezing and thawing reduced the water content of the skins and shifted the surface pH to acidic. Aging reduced hydration and permittivity, resulting in impaired barrier function. Mechanical sensitization used in permeability studies resulted in proportional thinning of dead epidermis.

DISCUSSION

Results indicate that depending on the scientific question it should be considered whether fresh or frozen tissue is used, and for certain purposes rodent skins are well usable. The structure of the skin tissue (ceramide, cholesterol, keratin, natural moisturizing factor or urea) is similar in rats and mice, but due to the higher skin thickness the lipid distribution is different in porcine skin. Psoriasis led to irregular chemical composition of the skin.

CONCLUSION

A comprehensive evaluation of skin samples of four species was performed. The biophysical and microscopic observations should be considered when selecting drug penetration models and experimental conditions.

Estimating the Analytical Performance of Raman Spectroscopy for Quantification of Active Ingredients in Human Stratum Corneum

Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) has become a versatile technique that can be applied routinely to monitor skin penetration of active molecules. In the present study, CRM coupled to multivariate analysis (namely PLSR—partial least squares regression) is used for the quantitative measurement of an active ingredient (AI) applied to isolated (ex vivo) human stratum corneum (SC), using systematically varied doses of resorcinol, as model compound, and the performance is quantified according to key figures of merit defined by regulatory bodies (ICH, FDA, and EMA). A methodology is thus demonstrated to establish the limit of detection (LOD), precision, accuracy, sensitivity (SEN), and selectivity (SEL) of the technique, and the performance according to these key figures of merit is compared to that of similar established methodologies, based on studies available in literature. First, principal components analysis (PCA) was used to examine the variability within the spectral data set collected. Second, ratios calculated from the area under the curve (AUC) of characteristic resorcinol and proteins/lipids bands (1400–1500 cm⁻¹) were used to perform linear regression analysis of the Raman spectra. Third, cross-validated PLSR analysis was applied to perform quantitative analysis in the fingerprint region. The AUC results show clearly that the intensities of Raman features in the spectra collected are linearly correlated to resorcinol concentrations in the SC (R² = 0.999) despite a heterogeneity in the distribution of the active molecule in the samples. The Root Mean Square Error of Cross-Validation (RMSECV) (0.017 mg resorcinol/mg SC), The Root Mean Square of Prediction (RMSEP) (0.015 mg resorcinol/mg SC), and R² (0.971) demonstrate the reliability of the linear regression constructed, enabling accurate quantification of resorcinol. Furthermore, the results have enabled the determination, for the first time, of numerical criteria to estimate analytical performances of CRM, including LOD, precision using bias corrected mean square error prediction (BCMSEP), sensitivity, and selectivity, for quantification of the performance of the analytical technique. This is one step further towards demonstrating that Raman spectroscopy complies with international guidelines and to establishing the technique as a reference and approved tool for permeation studies.

Highlighting the efficiency of ultrasound-based emulsifier-free emulsions to penetrate reconstructed human skin

OBJECTIVE

The cosmetic industry endeavours to strengthen the greener and safer claims of processes to respond to the high demand from customers for natural and environmentally friendly products. High Frequency Ultrasonication Technology (HFUT) is a physical process enabling the stabilisation of emulsions without requiring additional ingredients such as Emulsifying Surfactants (ES) to be introduced into the formulations. In this study, key formulation characteristics of an emulsion synthesised by HFUT and a reference emulsion (RE) were compared, as well as the permeation kinetics of caffeine, used as a model active cosmetic ingredient, from both types of emulsions.

METHODS

The pH, particle size and viscosity of emulsions prepared by the HFUT and the RE were determined and compared. The permeation of caffeine from the HFUT emulsion and the RE applied to the surface of reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models was compared.

RESULTS

The ES-free formulations prepared by HFUT displayed a nearly 2-fold lower average particle size and over 3-fold greater viscosity, compared to the RE. Despite these differences, the absence of ES in the HFUT emulsion did not significantly alter the permeation kinetics of caffeine through RHE. The caffeine steady-state flux, lag time and permeability coefficients differed by 20 to 30% only.

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrates the potential of the HFUT to yield topical cosmetic products with lower requirements ingredients-wise, without losing efficacy, supporting the possible implementation of the technology in the cosmetic industry.

In Vitro Assessment of Sunscreen Efficacy Using Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopy on Synthetic Skin

Although there are several methods for assessing the sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreen products, there is no standard and reliable in vitro method. Each test entails limitations and drawbacks. Therefore, this study aimed to assess the employability of FTIR as an alternative and quick method to evaluate the efficacy of various sunscreen formulations, their concentrations, and the timing of their application. Infrared radiation has longer wavelengths than ultraviolet, penetrates deeply into the skin, and hence enables the understanding of sunscreens' ability to block the transmission of radiation. The FTIR transmission using synthetic skin to study the effect of sunscreen agents (oxybenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, titanium dioxide (TiO₂), and zinc oxide (ZnO)) was conducted in the range 450-4000cm^-1. Comparison studies were made at the peak of 805cm^-1. After 2 h of sunscreen application, using the maximum concentrations, the FTIR peak at wavenumber 805cm^-1 demonstrated a significant reduction of transmission from 96.55 to 60.09%, 57.59%, 32.02%, and 37.1% for oxybenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, TiO₂, and ZnO respectively (P<0.05). A significant reduction in transmission was observed (P<0.05) with increasing sunscreen concentrations after 2 h of application. Nevertheless, the upper limit of concentration showed no appreciable change from the middle level of concentration, and hence it is cost-effective to employ the middle concentration. Inorganic sunscreens showed a higher protection level than organic. Fixed-dose combinations of sunscreens showed an enhanced effect yet were not synergistic. In conclusion, the use of FTIR spectroscopy with synthetic skin is a quick and user-friendly technique that enables the assessment of the efficacy of sunscreen formulations.

Optimization and Evaluation of the In Vitro Permeation Parameters of Topical Products with Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs through Strat-M® Membrane

Pharmaceutical products containing non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are among the most prescribed topical formulations used for analgesic and antirheumatic properties. These drugs must overcome the skin barrier to cause a therapeutic effect. Human skin has been widely used as a model to study in vitro drug diffusion and permeation, however, it suffers from many limitations. Therefore, to perform in vitro permeation test (IVPT), we used a Strat-M^® membrane with diffusion characteristics well-correlated to human skin. This study’s objective was to optimize the IVPT conditions using Plackett–Burman experimental design for bio-predictive evaluation of the in vitro permeation rates of five non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (diclofenac, etofenamate, ibuprofen, ketoprofen, naproxen) across Strat-M^® membrane from commercial topical formulations. The Plackett–Burman factorial design was used to screen the effect of seven factors in eight runs with one additional center point. This tool allowed us to set the sensitive and discriminative IVPT final conditions that can appropriately characterize the NSAIDs formulations. The permeation rate of etofenamate (ETF) across the Strat-M^® membrane was 1.7–14.8 times faster than other NSAIDs from selected semisolids but 1.6 times slower than the ETF spray formulation.

Polymer-Based Smart Drug Delivery Systems for Skin Application and Demonstration of Stimuli-Responsiveness

Progress in recent years in the field of stimuli-responsive polymers, whose properties change depending on the intensity of a signal, permitted an increase in smart drug delivery systems (SDDS). SDDS have attracted the attention of the scientific community because they can help meet two current challenges of the pharmaceutical industry: targeted drug delivery and personalized medicine. Controlled release of the active ingredient can be achieved through various stimuli, among which are temperature, pH, redox potential or even enzymes. SDDS, hitherto explored mainly in oncology, are now developed in the fields of dermatology and cosmetics. They are mostly hydrogels or nanosystems, and the most-used stimuli are pH and temperature. This review offers an overview of polymer-based SDDS developed to trigger the release of active ingredients intended to treat skin conditions or pathologies. The methods used to attest to stimuli-responsiveness in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo are discussed.