Integrating Wearable Sensors and Video to Determine Microlocation-Specific Physiologic and Motion Biometrics-Method Development for Competitive Climbing

Wearable and Non-Invasive Sensors for Rock Climbing Applications: Science-Based Training and Performance Optimization

Rock climbing has evolved from a method for alpine mountaineering into a popular recreational activity and competitive sport. Advances in safety equipment and the rapid growth of indoor climbing facilities has enabled climbers to focus on the physical and technical movements needed to elevate performance. Through improved training methods, climbers can now achieve ascents of extreme difficulty. A critical aspect to further improve performance is the ability to continuously measure body movement and physiologic responses while ascending the climbing wall. However, traditional measurement devices (e.g., dynamometer) limit data collection during climbing. Advances in wearable and non-invasive sensor technologies have enabled new applications for climbing. This paper presents an overview and critical analysis of the scientific literature on sensors used during climbing. We focus on the several highlighted sensors with the ability to provide continuous measurements during climbing. These selected sensors consist of five main types (body movement, respiration, heart activity, eye gazing, skeletal muscle characterization) that demonstrate their capabilities and potential climbing applications. This review will facilitate the selection of these types of sensors in support of climbing training and strategies.

Wearable and Portable Devices for Acquisition of Cardiac Signals while Practicing Sport: A Scoping Review

Wearable and portable devices capable of acquiring cardiac signals are at the frontier of the sport industry. They are becoming increasingly popular for monitoring physiological parameters while practicing sport, given the advances in miniaturized technologies, powerful data, and signal processing applications. Data and signals acquired by these devices are increasingly used to monitor athletes' performances and thus to define risk indices for sport-related cardiac diseases, such as sudden cardiac death. This scoping review investigated commercial wearable and portable devices employed for cardiac signal monitoring during sport activity. A systematic search of the literature was conducted on PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science. After study selection, a total of 35 studies were included in the review. The studies were categorized based on the application of wearable or portable devices in (1) validation studies, (2) clinical studies, and (3) development studies. The analysis revealed that standardized protocols for validating these technologies are necessary. Indeed, results obtained from the validation studies turned out to be heterogeneous and scarcely comparable, since the metrological characteristics reported were different. Moreover, the validation of several devices was carried out during different sport activities. Finally, results from clinical studies highlighted that wearable devices are crucial to improve athletes' performance and to prevent adverse cardiovascular events.

Using Inertial and Physiological Sensors to Investigate the Effects of a High-Intensity Interval Training and Plyometric Program on the Performance of Young Judokas

The use of inertial and physiological sensors in a sport such as judo is scarce to date. The information provided by these sensors would allow practitioners to have a better understanding of sports performance, which is necessary for an accurate training prescription. The purpose of this study was to use inertial and physiological sensors in order to investigate the effect of a plyometric and high-intensity interval training (HIIT) training program on Special Judo Fitness Test (SJFT) performance and speed of execution of throws in young judokas. A total of 32 participants were divided into two groups: experimental and control. The intervention consisted of six sessions with a duration of 60 min for 3 weeks. Physiological sensors collected heart rate data to assess the Special Judo Fitness Test, and inertial sensors collected angular velocity. The results show a significant decrease in the SJFT index (Score pre: 22.27 ± 2.73; Score post: 19.65 ± 1.70; p ≤ 0.05; d = 0.61) and a significant increase in the angular velocity of the X-axis (Pre: 320.87 ± 51.15°/s; Post: 356.50 ± 40.47°/s; p ≤ 0.05; d = 0.45) and Y-axis (Pre: 259.40 ± 41.99°/s; Post: 288.02 ± 65.12°/s; p ≤ 0.05; d = 0.31) in the experimental group. In conclusion, this study demonstrates that using inertial and physiological sensors allowed us to analyze the effect that a high-intensity interval training program and plyometrics had on the performance of young judokas. Strength and conditioning coaches should consider these results because including plyometric training and HIIT in judokas' workout programming can be especially positive for eliciting increases in performance. However, future training interventions should investigate the training adaptations to longer interventions.