Skin Penetration and Stability Enhancement of Celastrus paniculatus Seed Oil by 2-Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complex for Cosmeceutical Applications

Cyclodextrins for the Delivery of Bioactive Compounds from Natural Sources: Medicinal, Food and Cosmetics Applications

Cyclodextrins have gained significant and established attention as versatile carriers for the delivery of bioactive compounds derived from natural sources in various applications, including medicine, food and cosmetics. Their toroidal structure and hydrophobic cavity render them ideal candidates for encapsulating and solubilizing hydrophobic and poorly soluble compounds. Most medicinal, food and cosmetic ingredients share the challenges of hydrophobicity and degradation that can be effectively addressed by various cyclodextrin types. Though not new or novel-their first applications appeared in the market in the 1970s-their versatility has inspired numerous developments, either on the academic or industrial level. This review article provides an overview of the ever-growing applications of cyclodextrins in the delivery of bioactive compounds from natural sources and their potential application benefits.

An extensive review on phytochemistry and pharmacological activities of Indian medicinal plant Celastrus paniculatus Willd

Celastrus paniculatus is a traditional herb belonging to the family Celastraceae and is widely used for a number of medicinal activities in the Indian Unani and Ayurvedic systems. In this study, the extensive literature search was carried out on phytochemistry, ethnobotanical uses and pharmacological activities of C. paniculatus (Willd.) in various scientific databases as well as patents. Research on phytochemical investigation has shown the presence of monoterpenes (linalool, α-terpinyl acetate, nerol acetate), sesqueterpene esters (such as malkanguniol, malkangunin, valerenal, globulol, viridiflorol, cubenol and agarofuran derivatives), diterpenoids (such as phytone, isophytol), triterpenoids (such as lupeol, pristimerin, paniculatadiol, zeylasteral, zeylasterone, β-amyrin, squalene), alkaloids (celapanin, celapanigin, celapagin, paniculatine, celastrine, maymyrsine), fatty acids, steroids (β-sitosterol, carpesterol benzoate), flavonoids (paniculatin), benzoic acid, and vitamin C in this plant. All the reported pharmacological activities of this plant could be due to the presence of these phytochemicals. This plant possesses strong antioxidant activity which includes total flavonoid content, total phenolic content, nitric oxide scavenging activity and free radical scavenging activity. This plant possesses multiple pharmacological activities including cognition-enhancing, neuroprotective, antipsychotic, anti-depressant, antibacterial, anti-arthritic, anti-malarial, analgesic, anti-inflammatory, anti-fertility, cardiovascular, locomotor, anxiolytic, wound healing activity, anti-spasmodic, hypolipidemic, anti-cancerous and iron-chelating activity with different extracts of this plant as well as various phytoconstituents present in this plant. The objective of this review article is to discuss in detail the reported ethnopharmacological uses, phytochemistry and various pharmacological activities of C. paniculatus.

Methoxy-Substituted Tyramine Derivatives Synthesis, Computational Studies and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Kinetics

Targeting tyrosinase for melanogenesis disorders is an established strategy. Hydroxyl-substituted benzoic and cinnamic acid scaffolds were incorporated into new chemotypes that displayed in vitro inhibitory effects against mushroom and human tyrosinase for the purpose of identifying anti-melanogenic ingredients. The most active compound 2-((4-methoxyphenethyl)amino)-2-oxoethyl (E)-3-(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) acrylate (Ph9), inhibited mushroom tyrosinase with an IC₅₀ of 0.059 nM, while 2-((4-methoxyphenethyl)amino)-2-oxoethyl cinnamate (Ph6) had an IC₅₀ of 2.1 nM compared to the positive control, kojic acid IC₅₀ 16700 nM. Results of human tyrosinase inhibitory activity in A375 human melanoma cells showed that compound (Ph9) and Ph6 exhibited 94.6% and 92.2% inhibitory activity respectively while the positive control kojic acid showed 72.9% inhibition. Enzyme kinetics reflected a mixed type of inhibition for inhibitor Ph9 (K_i 0.093 nM) and non-competitive inhibition for Ph6 (K_i 2.3 nM) revealed from Lineweaver–Burk plots. In silico docking studies with mushroom tyrosinase (PDB ID:2Y9X) predicted possible binding modes in the catalytic site for these active compounds. Ph9 displayed no PAINS (pan-assay interference compounds) alerts. Our results showed that compound Ph9 is a potential candidate for further development of tyrosinase inhibitors.

Effect of hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin in fluid and semi-solid submicron emulsions on physiological skin parameters during regular in vivo application

Objective

The aim of the present study was to evaluate the effect of hydroxypropyl‐β‐cyclodextrin (HP‐β‐CD) in cosmetic submicron emulsions and submicron emulsion gels on physiological skin parameters during regular application in a clinical set‐up.

Methods

Formulation morphology was investigated using cryo‐transmission electron microscopy. Stability of the employed formulations was determined by photon correlation spectroscopy, measurement of pH and rheological properties. Effect on physiological skin parameters was evaluated during regular application over four weeks in a parallel group study (n = 15, healthy forearm skin) with a Corneometer, Sebumeter, skin‐pH‐Meter, Aquaflux and an Epsilon sensor. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was employed to monitor urea and NMF levels.

Results

Both submicron emulsions and gels showed satisfying storage stability irrespective of cyclodextrin incorporation. No statistically significant effects on skin barrier function and any of the observed parameters were obtained, indicating good skin tolerability of all tested formulations.

Conclusion

Results suggest good skin tolerability of the developed cosmetic submicron emulsions and gels with HP‐β‐CD.