Topical Delivery of 3-O-ethyl l-ascorbic Acid from Complex Solvent Systems

Liposomal formulation of a vitamin C derivative: a promising strategy to increase skin permeability

This study describes the development of a novel liposomal formulation incorporating 3-O-ethyl-L-ascorbic acid (EAA), a derivative of vitamin C. The EAA-loaded liposomes were fully characterized, particle size and zeta potential values suitable for drug delivery. The skin penetration studies revealed that liposomal formulation enhanced EAA retention in the skin compared to free EAA. Additionally, the impact of topical treatments with liposomal EAA on photo-aging markers in skin explants was investigated. EAA charged liposomes display a protective or stimulatory effect on cellular metabolism. Finally, liposomal EAA have a significant effect on the inflamatory markers, reducing the extracellular matrix degradation associated with UV-induced damage of skin. These findings provide valuable insights into the potential of liposomal formulations for the development of advanced cosmetic products.

Lipid-Based Gels for Delivery of 3-O-Ethyl L-Ascorbic acid in Topical Applications

This study explores the incorporation of 10% 3-O-ethyl L-ascorbic acid (ETVC), a derivative of vitamin C, into two lipid gel systems: a hydrogel (HG) consisting exclusively of lipids and water and a bigel (BG) combining the hydrogel with an oleogel made from olive oil and beeswax. We investigated the ETVC release profiles from both materials using synthetic membranes and measured their permeation through porcine skin in vitro. Additionally, the interaction of these lipid gel systems with the stratum corneum (SC) was determined. Results from the release study indicate that the BG exhibited slower ETVC release compared to the HG. The permeation experiments showed that the presence of lipids in the formulations enhanced ETVC retention in the skin. The HG delivered a higher amount to the SC, while the BG achieved greater retention in the epidermis. This difference is attributed to the different lipophilic nature of each material. The structural analysis of SC lipids revealed that the organization of surface lipids remained unaltered by the application of the gels. Finally, an in vitro efficacy test in porcine skin using methylene blue indicated that our ETVC gels exhibited antioxidant activity. These findings provide valuable insights into the potential of lipid-based gels for topical applications.

The Anti-Inflammatory Action of Cannabigerol Accompanied by the Antioxidant Effect of 3-O-ethyl Ascorbic Acid in UVA-Irradiated Human Keratinocytes

Excessive daily exposure of human skin to natural UVA radiation leads to impaired redox homeostasis in epidermal keratinocytes, resulting in changes in their proteome. Commonly used antioxidants usually exhibit protection in a narrowed range, which makes it necessary to combine their effects. Therefore, the aim of this study was to analyze the protective effect of cannabigerol (CBG) and 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA), used separately and together, on the proteomic profile of UVA irradiated keratinocytes. Proteomic analysis with the use of the Q Exactive HF mass spectrometer, combined with biostatistic tests, performed on UVA-irradiated keratinocytes indicated enhanced and lowered expression of 186 and 160 proteins, respectively. CBG treatment after UVA irradiation reduced these numbers to 110 upregulated and 49 downregulated proteins, while EAA eliminated all these changes. CBG completely eliminated the UV-induced effect on the expression of pro-inflammatory proteins and significantly increased the level of proteins responsible for cellular locomotion. On the other hand, CBG reduced the level of UVA-induced 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts fivefold, whereas EAA had no effect on this modification. At the same time, CBG and EAA did not modify the expression/structure of proteins in relation to the nonirradiated control keratinocytes in the case of an unaccompanied use or slightly modified the protein profile when used in a mixture. The combined protective effects of CBG on protein structure and EAA on protein expression profile allowed us to obtain a wider protection of cells against UVA radiation, compared with when the compounds were used alone. SIGNIFICANCE STATEMENT: Proteomic analysis of human skin cells allows to conclude that 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid eliminates UVA-induced changes in the expression of keratinocyte proteins, while cannabigerol significantly reduces 4-hydroxynonenal protein adducts. The combined protective effects of cannabigerol on protein structure and of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid on protein expression profile allowed to obtain a wider protection of cells against UVA radiation.

Dermal Delivery of Diclofenac Sodium-In Vitro and In Vivo Studies

Previously, we reported the use of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) as a novel non-invasive approach to determine drug disposition in the skin in vivo. Results obtained by CRS were found to correlate with data from the well-established in vitro permeation test (IVPT) model using human epidermis. However, these studies used simple vehicles comprising single solvents and binary or ternary solvent mixtures; to date, the utility of CRS for monitoring dermal absorption following application of complex marketed formulations has not been examined. In the present work, skin delivery of diclofenac sodium (DFNa) from two topical dermatological drug products, namely Diclac® Lipogel 10 mg/g and Primofenac® Emulsion gel 1%, was determined by IVPT and in vivo by both CRS and tape stripping (TS) methodologies under similar experimental conditions. The in vivo data were evaluated against the in vitro findings, and a direct comparison between CRS and TS was performed. Results from all methodologies showed that Diclac promoted significantly greater DFNa delivery to the skin (p < 0.05). The cumulative amounts of DFNa which permeated at 24 h in vitro for Diclac (86.5 ± 9.4 µg/cm2) were 3.6-fold greater than the corresponding amounts found for Primofenac (24.4 ± 2.7 µg/cm2). Additionally, total skin uptake of DFNa in vivo, estimated by the area under the depth profiles curves (AUC), or the signal intensity of the drug detected in the upper stratum corneum (SC) (4 µm) ranged from 3.5 to 3.6-fold greater for Diclac than for Primofenac. The shape of the distribution profiles and the depth of DFNa penetration to the SC estimated by CRS and TS were similar for the two methods. However, TS data indicated a 4.7-fold greater efficacy of Diclac relative to Primofenac, with corresponding total amounts of drug penetrated, 94.1 ± 22.6 µg and 20.2 ± 7.0 µg. The findings demonstrate that CRS is a methodology that is capable of distinguishing skin delivery of DFNa from different formulations. The results support the use of this approach for non-invasive evaluation of topical products in vivo. Future studies will examine additional formulations with more complex compositions and will use a wider range of drugs with different physicochemical properties. The non-invasive nature of CRS coupled with the ability to monitor drug permeation in real time offer significant advantages for testing and development of topical dermatological products.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

Chemical Permeation Enhancers for Topically-Applied Vitamin C and Its Derivatives: A Systematic Review

This paper reports the permeation-enhancing properties and safety of different chemical permeation enhancers (CPEs) on the topical delivery of vitamin C (VC) and its derivatives. A literature search using search keywords or phrases was done in PubMed®, ScienceDirect, and MEDLINE databases. The calculated Log P (cLog P) values were referenced from PubChem and the dermal LD50 values were referenced from safety data sheets. Thirteen studies described the permeation-enhancing activity of 18 identified CPEs in the topical delivery of VC. Correlation analysis between ER and cLog P values for porcine (r = 0.114) and rabbit (r = 0.471) showed weak and moderate positive correlation, while mouse (r = −0.135), and reconstructed human epidermis (r = −0.438) had a negative correlation. The majority (n = 17) of the CPEs belonged to Category 5 of the Globally Harmonized System of Classification or low toxicity hazard. CPEs alone or in combination enhanced permeation (ER = 0.198–106.57) of VC in topical formulations. The combination of isopropyl myristate, sorbitan monolaurate, and polyoxyethylene 80 as CPEs for VC resulted in the highest permeation enhancement ratio.

Detachable dissolvable microneedles: intra-epidermal and intradermal diffusion, effect on skin surface, and application in hyperpigmentation treatment

Delivering bioactive compounds into skin tissue has long been a challenge. Using ex vivo porcine and rat skins, here we demonstrate that a detachable dissolvable microneedle (DDMN) array, a special dissolvable microneedle that allows needle detachment from the base within 2 min post administration, can effectively embed a model compound into epidermis and dermis. Diffusion of the compound from the needle embedding sites to the nearby skin tissue is demonstrated at various post administration periods. The relationship between the time that a conventional dissolvable microneedle array is left on skin without needle detachment from the base and the degree of skin surface abrasion at each microneedle penetration spot is also demonstrated on skin of human volunteers. Co-loading glutathione with vitamin C (vitC) can stabilize vitC in the DDMN. DDMN loaded with vitC and glutathione can help erasing post-acne-hyperpigmentation spots.

A comparison of the in vitro permeation of 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid in human skin and in a living skin equivalent (LabSkin™)

OBJECTIVES

The safety assessment of personal care products often entails determining dermal absorption of their ingredients. Such experiments are typically performed in human or animal skin in vitro; however, ethical and safety considerations are associated with obtaining these tissues. Several human skin equivalent models (HSEs) have been developed as alternatives to human tissue. The barrier function of such models however, is normally less developed than human skin. Here, we examine the permeability of the HSE LabSkin^TM to a model compound, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid (EA) compared with human skin.

METHODS

Skin uptake and permeation of EA was investigated in vitro using heat-separated human epidermis and LabSkin^TM . Finite dose (5 μL cm^-2 ) Franz-diffusion studies were conducted using 2 % (w/w) EA in a ternary solvent mixture comprising propylene glycol (PG), propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML), and isopropyl myristate (IPM). These excipients are commonly used in cosmetic products and they have been reported to promote permeation of EA in a different model, namely porcine skin.

RESULTS

Permeation of EA through LabSkin^TM was evident from 2 h; however, EA permeation in human skin was not detected until 5 h. Similar amounts of EA permeated through the two membranes at time points 8, 10, 12 and 24 h (p > 0.05). The cumulative amounts of EA delivered through LabSkin^TM at 24 h were 41.3 ± 2.0 µg cm^-2 , corresponding to 55.1 ± 1.8 % of the applied dose. Similar amounts permeated across human skin, 49.4 ± 4.1 µg cm^-2 , accounting for 58.0 ± 4.2 % of the dose applied (p > 0.05).

CONCLUSION

The permeation of EA in LabSkin^TM compared well with results for human epidermis in terms of the permeation profiles and the cumulative amounts of EA that permeated. The data suggest that the skin barrier of the two models was similar with regard to their overall permeability to the hydrophilic active EA. The findings are promising for the use of LabSkin^TM as a surrogate for human skin in permeability testing. Future studies will focus on exploring the reproducibility and robustness of LabSkin^TM for delivery of other actives that span a range of physicochemical properties.

Franz Cell Diffusion Testing and Quantitative Confocal Raman Spectroscopy: In Vitro-In Vivo Correlation

Previously, we reported the use of Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS) to investigate the topical delivery of actives and excipients. We have also correlated the results from CRS with findings from in vitro diffusion studies in human skin. However, until now CRS has only been used as a semi-quantitative method of determining the skin uptake of molecules, with results expressed as arbitrary units of signal intensity. Clearly, this posed challenges for using CRS to determine skin delivery and to assess the drug bioavailability and bioequivalence of topical formulations. In the present work, the permeation of niacinamide (NIA) from various formulations in human skin was studied in vitro using conventional Franz cells and in vivo using a quantitative CRS method under finite dose conditions. The selection of NIA was based on its wide use in pharmaceutical and personal care formulations for many years. This is the first fully quantitative study to compare these methods. The vehicles investigated were neat Transcutol^® P (TC); binary combinations of propylene glycol (PG) with propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML); and ternary mixtures of PG, PGML, and isopropyl myristate (IPM). These solvents were selected to encompass a range of physicochemical properties. NIA permeation was evident from all formulations in vitro and in vivo. The vehicles PG:PGML and PG:PGML:IPM delivered comparable amounts across the skin in vitro at 24 h (100.3–106.7 µg/cm², p > 0.05) that were significantly higher compared with those of TC (1.3 µg/cm², p < 0.05). An excellent in vitro in vivo correlation (R² = 0.98) was found following the linear regression of the cumulative amounts of NIA permeated in vitro and the amounts of NIA at 2 μm in the skin measured with CRS. A very good correlation between the cumulative permeation of NIA in vitro and the total amount of NIA that penetrated the stratum corneum (SC) per unit of surface area (μg/cm²) in vivo was also observed, with a Pearson correlation coefficient (R²) of 0.94. The findings support the use of CRS for the quantitative measurement of actives delivered to the skin in vivo. Future studies will focus on exploring the reproducibility and reliability of the method by investigating the delivery of different actives from a wider range of vehicles. Additionally, quantitative CRS will be evaluated further as a method for assessing the bioequivalence of topical formulations.

Investigation of binary and ternary solvent systems for dermal delivery of methadone

Methadone appears to be a promising candidate for pain management. Previously, we conducted a comprehensive characterization study of methadone base and evaluated the dermal delivery of methadone from various neat solvents. Four solvents, namely d-limonene (LIM), ethyl oleate (EO), Transcutol® P (TC) and octyl salicylate (OSAL), were identified as the optimal neat solvents for skin delivery of the compound. To explore further approaches to improve methadone permeation, the present work investigated a range of binary and ternary vehicles. In vitro permeation studies in porcine skin confirmed that binary systems delivered significantly higher (p < 0.05) amounts of methadone through the skin compared with neat solvents. The highest skin permeation was observed for formulations composed of propylene glycol (PG) and TC. Nine formulations were subsequently examined in human skin. A good correlation (r² = 0.80) for methadone permeation was obtained between porcine ear skin and human skin data. Solvent uptake studies indicated that the presence of PG not only increased methadone permeation but also TC permeation. The drug appears to "track" the permeation of TC. Future studies will expand further the range of potential vehicles for optimal delivery of the drug, that will ultimately to be investigated in clinical studies.