Dermal Stability and In Vitro Skin Permeation of Collagen Pentapeptides (KTTKS and palmitoyl-KTTKS)

Current Approaches in Cosmeceuticals: Peptides, Biotics and Marine Biopolymers

Today's consumer perception and expectations of personal care have gone beyond merely cleansing, moisturizing, and makeup products, focusing more on the reduction or elimination of signs of aging. Cosmeceuticals, developed to create a more youthful appearance, commonly contain substances with therapeutic and physiological effects. The development of cosmeceutical products containing peptides, biotic ingredients, and marine-based compounds has become a highly popular strategy to enhance anti-aging effects and better address consumer demands. Peptides are frequently used in anti-aging products due to their effects on enhancing fibroblast proliferation and collagen synthesis, contributing to the skin's barrier function, and reducing skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, biotic components are extensively evaluated for their potential to improve barrier function by maintaining the balance of the skin microflora. On the other hand, the increasing interest of cosmetic consumers in natural and eco-friendly products, along with the rich biodiversity in the oceans and seas, has made marine-derived substances highly significant for the cosmetic industry. Marine polysaccharides are particularly valuable as biopolymers, offering useful properties for gel formation in cosmetic formulations. This review discusses scientific studies and commercially available products using peptides, biotic and marine-based compounds in cosmetic formulations, their cosmetic and cosmeceutical benefits, and the challenges in the formulation design of these products.

Microscale Delivery Systems for Hydrophilic Active Ingredients in Functional Consumer Goods

Hydrophilic active ingredients play a crucial role in formulated consumer products, encompassing antioxidants, flavoring substances, and pharmaceuticals. Yet, their susceptibility to environmental factors, such as light, pH, temperature, and humidity, poses challenges to their stability and sustained release. Microencapsulation offers a promising avenue to address these challenges, facilitating stabilization, targeted delivery, and enhanced efficacy of hydrophilic actives. However, despite significant advancements in the field, microencapsulation of hydrophilic actives remains at the forefront of innovation. This is primarily due to the intrinsic characteristics of hydrophilic actives, including small molecular weight and thus high permeability through many microcarriers (e.g., shells), which often necessitate complex and costly technologies to be developed. Moreover, in light of escalating regulatory frameworks, the pursuit of biodegradable and other compliant materials suitable for the entrapment of hydrophilic ingredients is gaining momentum. These advancements aim to provide alternatives to currently used non-degradable synthetic polymer materials. Research is currently pushing towards meeting these regulatory constraints via cutting-edge technologies to engineer novel microscale delivery systems for hydrophilic active ingredients, including microcapsules, microspheres, microneedles, and micropatches. Although still in its infancy, this approach holds true potential for revolutionizing the future of formulated consumer goods.

Self-Assembly of a Conjugate of Lipoic Acid With a Collagen-Stimulating Pentapeptide Showing Cytocompatibility and Wound Healing Properties, and Chemical and Photolytic Disassembly

Lipoic acid is a biocompatible compound with antioxidant activity that is of considerable interest in cosmetic formulations, and the disulfide group in the N-terminal ring confers redox activity. Here, we study the self-assembly and aspects of the bioactivity of a lipopeptide (peptide amphiphile) comprising the KTTKS collagen-stimulating pentapeptide sequence conjugated to an N-terminal lipoic acid chain, lipoyl-KTTKS. Using SAXS, SANS and cryo-TEM, lipoyl-KTTKS is found to form a population of curly fibrils (wormlike micelles) above a critical aggregation concentration. Upon chemical reduction, the fibrils (and β-sheet structure) are disrupted because of the breaking of the disulfide bond, which produces dihydrolipoic acid. Lipoyl-KTTKS also undergoes photo-degradation in the presence of UV radiation. Through cell assays using fibroblasts, we found that lipoyl-KTTKS has excellent cytocompatibility across a wide concentration range, stimulates collagen production, and enhances the rate of cell coverage in a simple in vitro scratch assay of 'wound healing'. Lipoyl-KTTKS thus has several notable properties that may be useful for the development of cosmetics, cell scaffolds or tissue engineering materials.

Overview of Peptides and Their Potential Roles in Skin Health and Beauty

Peptides are molecules that consist of at least two amino acids linked by peptide bonds. The difference between peptides and proteins is primarily based on size and structure. Typically, oligopeptides consist of fewer than about 10-20 amino acids, and polypeptides consist of more than 20 amino acids, whereas proteins usually are made up more than 50 amino acids and often contain multiple peptide subunits as stated in the International Union of Pure and Applied Chemistry rules. Beyond the nutritional properties, peptides are also structural components of hormones, enzymes, toxins, and antibiotics and play several fundamental physiological roles in the body. Since the introduction of the first commercial peptide drug, insulin, peptide-based drugs have gained increased interest. So far, more than 80 peptide-based drugs have reached the market for a wide range of conditions, such as diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, and urological disorders. Meanwhile, peptides have also gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry because of their potential in boosting skin health. In this review, peptides were comprehensively summarized in the aspects of sources, function, the use of peptides in cosmetics and skin care, and indications for the delivery of cosmetic peptides.

Bioactive Glycyrrhizic Acid Ionic Liquid Self-Assembled Nanomicelles for Enhanced Transdermal Delivery of Anti-Photoaging Signal Peptides

Sigal peptides have garnered remarkable efficacy in rejuvenating photoaged skin and delaying senescence. Nevertheless, their low solubility and poor permeability bring about a formidable challenge in their transdermal delivery. To address this challenge, bioactive ionic liquids (ILs) synthesized from natural glycyrrhizic acid (GA) and oxymatrine (OMT) with eminent biocompatibility is first prepared. The components ratios and inherent forming mechanisms of GA-OMT (GAO) are optimized by molecular dynamics simulations and density functional theory calculations. Remarkably, GAO can significantly improve the sparingly soluble properties of palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (PAL-4), a model peptide drug. Subsequently, GAO self-assembled micelles loading PAL-4 (GAO/PAL-4-SM) are fabricated without additional auxiliary materials. The permeation and subcutaneous retention of PAL-4 are significantly promoted with 10wt.% GAO-SM. Moreover, GAO ILs facilitated PAL-4 permeation by enhancing its miscibility and interaction with stratum corneum (SC), offering a pulling effect and micellar structures for PAL-4, as elucidated by computational simulations. In cellular and animal photoaging experiments, GAO/PAL-4-SM possessed remarkable capabilities in boosting collagen and hyaluronic acid regeneration, mitigating inflammation and apoptosis, accelerating macrophage M2 polarization, thereby lessening skin wrinkles and leveraging elasticity. Collectively, the research innovatively designed an ILs self-assembled nano-micellar transdermal delivery system to enhance the permeability and anti-photoaging effect of signal peptides.

Matrikines in the skin: Origin, effects, and therapeutic potential

The extracellular matrix (ECM) represents a complex multi-component environment that has a decisive influence on the biomechanical properties of tissues and organs. Depending on the tissue, ECM components are subject to a homeostasis of synthesis and degradation, a subtle interplay that is influenced by external factors and the intrinsic aging process and is often disturbed in pathologies. Upon proteolytic cleavage of ECM proteins, small bioactive peptides termed matrikines can be formed. These bioactive peptides play a crucial role in cell signaling and contribute to the dynamic regulation of both physiological and pathological processes such as tissue remodeling and repair as well as inflammatory responses. In the skin, matrikines exert an influence for instance on cell adhesion, migration, and proliferation as well as vasodilation, angiogenesis and protein expression. Due to their manifold functions, matrikines represent promising leads for developing new therapeutic options for the treatment of skin diseases. This review article gives a comprehensive overview on matrikines in the skin, including their origin in the dermal ECM, their biological effects and therapeutic potential for the treatment of skin pathologies such as melanoma, chronic wounds and inflammatory skin diseases or for their use in anti-aging cosmeceuticals.

Retro-Inverso Collagen Modulator Peptide Derived from Serpin A1 with Enhanced Stability and Activity In Vitro

The rising demand for novel cosmeceutical ingredients has highlighted peptides as a significant category. Based on the collagen turnover modulation properties of SA1-III, a decapeptide derived from a serine protease inhibitor (serpin A1), this study focused on designing shorter, second-generation peptides endowed with improved properties. A tetrapeptide candidate was further modified employing the retro-inverso approach that uses d-amino acids aiming to enhance peptide stability against dermal enzymes. Surprisingly, the modified peptide AAT11RI displayed notably high activity in vitro, as compared to its precursors, and suggested a mode of action based on the inhibition of collagen degradation. It is worth noting that AAT11RI showcases stability against dermal enzymes contained in human skin homogenates due to its rationally designed structure that hampers recognition by most proteases. The rational approach we embraced in this study underscored the added value of substantiated claims in the design of new cosmeceutical ingredients, representing a rarity in the field.

Liposome Encapsulation of the Palmitoyl-KTTKS Peptide: Structural and Functional Characterization

In this study, the amphiphilic N-palmitoyl-KTTKS peptide was integrated in the bilayer of egg-derived phosphatidylcholine (PC) vesicles using two different preparation methods, namely thin-film evaporation (TLE) and reverse-phase evaporation (REV). Both the REV and TLE methods allowed for the formation of homogeneous liposome dispersions (PdI < 0.20) with mean hydrodynamic diameters of <100 nm and <200 nm, respectively, a net negative surface charge and a percentage of structured phospholipids higher than 90%. The inclusion of the amphiphilic N-palmitoyl-KTTKS peptide within phospholipid-based vesicles could improve peptide stability and skin delivery. Therefore, the obtained liposomes were evaluated via experiments assessing the synthesis of collagen and the ECM in 3T3-NIH fibroblasts. The obtained results showed that, when delivered with PC liposomes, pal-KTTKS stimulated collagen production more than free pentapeptide and 1 mM ascorbic acid, used as a positive control.

In situ photo-crosslinkable hyaluronic acid-based hydrogel embedded with GHK peptide nanofibers for bioactive wound healing

A versatile hydrogel was developed for enhancing bioactive wound healing by introducing the amphiphilic GHK peptide (GHK-C16) into a photo-crosslinkable tyramine-modified hyaluronic acid (HA-Ty). GHK-C16 self-assembled into GHK nanofibers (GHK NF) in HA-Ty solution, which underwent in situ gelation after the wound area was filled with precursor solution. Blue light irradiation (460-490 nm), with riboflavin phosphate as a photoinitiator, was used to trigger crosslinking, which enhanced the stability of the highly degradable hyaluronic acid and enabled sustained release of the nanostructured GHK derivatives. The hydrogels provided a microenvironment that promoted the proliferation of dermal fibroblasts and the activation of cytokines, leading to reduced inflammation and increased collagen expression during wound healing. The complexation of Cu2+ into GHK nanofibers resulted in superior wound healing capabilities compared with non-lipidated GHK peptide with a comparable level of growth factor (EGF). Additionally, nanostructured Cu-GHK improved angiogenesis through vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) activation, which exerted a synergistic therapeutic effect. Furthermore, in vivo wound healing experiments revealed that the Cu-GHK NF/HA-Ty hydrogel accelerated wound healing through densely packed remodeled collagen in the dermis and promoting the growth of denser fibroblasts. HA-Ty hydrogels incorporating GHK NF also possessed improved mechanical properties and a faster wound healing rate, making them suitable for advanced bioactive wound healing applications. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: By combining photo-crosslinkable tyramine-modified hyaluronic acid with self-assembled Cu-GHK-C16 peptide nanofibers (Cu-GHK NF), the Cu-GHK NF/HA-Ty hydrogel offers remarkable advantages over conventional non-structured Cu-GHK for wound healing. It enhances cell proliferation, migration, and collagen remodeling-critical factors in tissue regeneration. The incorporation of GHK nanofibers complexed with copper ions imparts potent anti-inflammatory effects, promoting cytokine activation and angiogenesis during wound healing. The Cu-GHK NF/hydrogel's unique properties, including in situ photo-crosslinking, ensure high customization and potency in tissue regeneration, providing a cost-effective alternative to growth factors. In vivo experiments further validate its efficacy, demonstrating significant wound closure, collagen remodeling, and increased fibroblast density. Overall, the Cu-GHK NF/HA-Ty hydrogel represents an advanced therapeutic option for wound healing applications.

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

The Radical Scavenging Activities and Anti-Wrinkle Effects of Soymilk Fractions Fermented with Lacticaseibacillus paracasei MK1 and Their Derived Peptides

Soybean-derived peptides exert several beneficial effects in various experimental models. However, only a few studies have focused on the radical scavenging and anti-wrinkle effects of soymilk-derived peptides produced via different processes, such as fermentation, enzymatic treatment, and ultrafiltration. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the radical scavenging and antiwrinkle effects of soymilk fractions produced using these processes. We found that 50SFMKUF5, a 5 kDa ultrafiltration fraction fermented with Lacticaseibacillus paracasei MK1 after flavourzyme treatment, exhibited the highest radical scavenging activity using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging assay as well as potent anti-wrinkle effects assessed by type 1 procollagen production and tumor necrosis factor-α production in ultraviolet B (UVB)-treated human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes. To identify potential bioactive peptides, candidate peptides were synthesized, and their anti-wrinkle effects were assessed. APEFLKEAFGVN (APE), palmitoyl-APE, and QIVTVEGGLSVISPK peptides were synthesized and used to treat UVB-irradiated fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes, and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced B16F1 melanoma cells. Among these peptides, Pal-APE exerted the strongest effect. Our results highlight the potential of soymilk peptides as anti-aging substances.

[Research progress of natural collagen peptides and its skincare efficacy]

Natural collagen peptides are collagen hydrolysates. Because of their unique physicochemical properties and excellent biological activities, collagen peptides have been a research hotspot of cosmetic raw materials development and skincare efficacy improvement. Combined with the needs of the skincare efficacy and the development trends of cosmetics, the extraction methods and their structural characteristics of natural collagen peptides were summarized in detail. The applications and its research progress in skincare efficacy of collagen peptides, such as moisturizing and anti-wrinkle, trophism and anti-aging, filling and skin regeneration were expressed with emphasis. Finally, the development and practical applications in cosmetics of natural collagen peptides were adequately prospected.

Design and Evaluation of Complex Polypeptide-Loaded Dissolving Microneedles for Improving Facial Wrinkles in Different Areas

Wrinkles are one of the most intuitive manifestations of skin aging. Complex polypeptide-loaded dissolving microneedles (CP-DMNs) for facial wrinkles in different areas have been developed and evaluated for the first time. In optimizing formulations, we compared the differences in CP-DMNs heights on skin insertion depth and skin repair and healing. Furthermore, systemic safety experiments were carried out to provide a reference for clinical application. On this basis, an 84-day efficacy assessment based on the improvement of facial wrinkles in different areas and a comparison between CP-DMNs vs. placebo was performed on 30 healthy subjects. As a result, DMNs with a height of 300 μm presented sufficient strength to pierce the stratum corneum with minimized skin damage. In addition, CP-DMNs possessed excellent biological safety and skin compatibility for clinical application. Compared with placebo, CP-DMNs exhibited obvious improvements in wrinkles distributed in the corners of eyes, under-eyes, and nasolabial folds. Furthermore, after using CP-DMNs for 84 days, facial wrinkles in five different areas were smoothed. In short, the complex polypeptides showed apparent anti-wrinkle efficacy with the aid of DMNs technology, and CP-DMNs seemed to work better on deeper wrinkles, such as frown lines and nasolabial folds.

Matrixyl Patch vs Matrixyl Cream: A Comparative In Vivo Investigation of Matrixyl (MTI) Effect on Wound Healing

Wound healing is one of the most complex biological processes. Studies show that Matrixyl (MTI), known as a cosmetic peptide, can lead to a faster healing process. The contribution of MTI to collagen formation during wound healing also depends on its mode of delivery and its release over time. Here, we investigate two modes of MTI-delivery system, the influence of MTI patch for wound healing application in comparison with MTI cream. In this study, animals were randomly divided into seven groups and studied for 21 days: patches containing two different concentrations of MTI (P-MTI-0.1 mg and P-MTI-1 mg), a cream containing MTI (C-MTI-1 mg), a patch (P-MTI-0), a cream with no MTI (C-MTI-0), a positive control (Comfeel), and a negative control (sham) group. To study the wound healing process, the change in collagen density, angiogenesis, epitheliogenesis, histopathology, immunohistochemical analysis, and wound area through imaging was monitored and measured. The macroscopic results showed that wound healing was improved from 63.5 up to 81.81% in treatment groups compared to that in the negative control group (P < 0.05 and P < 0.001). In addition, C-MTI-1 and P-MTI-1 had a larger impact on wound healing compared to that in the positive control group (Comfeel, P < 0.05). In hematoxylin and eosin (H&E) staining analysis, the rejuvenation of skin appendage was visible in both groups of cream and patches with MTI. According to the obtained results, the re-epithelialization had a higher range for the patch with MTI in comparison with cream containing MTI and positive control.

Matrikines as mediators of tissue remodelling

Extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins confer biomechanical properties, maintain cell phenotype and mediate tissue repair (via release of sequestered cytokines and proteases). In contrast to intracellular proteomes, where proteins are monitored and replaced over short time periods, many ECM proteins function for years (decades in humans) without replacement. The longevity of abundant ECM proteins, such as collagen I and elastin, leaves them vulnerable to damage accumulation and their host organs prone to chronic, age-related diseases. However, ECM protein fragmentation can potentially produce peptide cytokines (matrikines) which may exacerbate and/or ameliorate age- and disease-related ECM remodelling. In this review, we discuss ECM composition, function and degradation and highlight examples of endogenous matrikines. We then critically and comprehensively analyse published studies of matrix-derived peptides used as topical skin treatments, before considering the potential for improvements in the discovery and delivery of novel matrix-derived peptides to skin and internal organs. From this, we conclude that while the translational impact of matrix-derived peptide therapeutics is evident, the mechanisms of action of these peptides are poorly defined. Further, well-designed, multimodal studies are required.

Skin permeability, a dismissed necessity for anti-wrinkle peptide performance

The skin offers various benefits and potential for peptide delivery if its barrier performance can be reduced temporarily and reversibly. Since peptides possess high molecular weight, hydrophilic nature (in most cases), and ionizable groups in the structure, their skin delivery is highly challenging. Apart from this, they are susceptible to the proteolytic enzymes in the skin. Anti-wrinkle peptides, like other peptides, suffer from insufficient skin permeability, while most of them must penetrate deep in the skin to present their efficacy. Although the cellular studies indicate the effectiveness of such peptides, without the ability to permeate the skin sufficiently, this efficacy is useless. Poor skin permeability of anti-wrinkle peptides has led to ongoing research for finding feasible and noninvasive enhancement methods that would be desirable for consumers of cosmetic products. In this paper, the possibility of skin permeation of anti-wrinkle peptides as well as the chemical, physical, and encapsulation approaches that have been employed to date to increase permeability of these difficult molecules are thoroughly reviewed.

Bioactivities, Applications, Safety, and Health Benefits of Bioactive Peptides From Food and By-Products: A Review

Bioactive peptides generated from food proteins have great potential as functional foods and nutraceuticals. Bioactive peptides possess several significant functions, such as antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, antimicrobial, immunomodulatory, and antihypertensive effects in the living body. In recent years, numerous reports have been published describing bioactive peptides/hydrolysates produced from various food sources. Herein, we reviewed the bioactive peptides or protein hydrolysates found in the plant, animal, marine, and dairy products, as well as their by-products. This review also emphasizes the health benefits, bioactivities, and utilization of active peptides obtained from the mentioned sources. Their possible application in functional product development, feed, wound healing, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, and their use as food additives have all been investigated alongside considerations on their safety.

Peptides as Active Ingredients: A Challenge for Cosmeceutical Industry

Cosmeceutical field, which merges cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, is nowadays a highly investigated research area, because a scientific demonstration of the claimed bioactivity of new cosmeceutical ingredients is increasingly requested. In fact, an aspect differentiating traditional cosmetics from cosmeceuticals is the identification and characterization of the active ingredients and demonstrating its efficacy in the claimed activity. An interesting group of bioactive cosmeceutical ingredients are peptides, which due to their particular properties, meets most of the requirements presented by the cosmeceutical industry when composing new formulas. In this context, beside bioactivity, two additional aspects have been recently considered, when dealing with peptides as cosmeceutical ingredients: bioavailability and stability. We describe herein novel methods applied in order to enhance peptides skin-penetration and stability, reviewing both scientific articles and patents, issued in the cosmeceutical arena.

Susceptibility of cosmeceutical peptides to proteases activity: Development of dermal stability test by LC-MS/MS analysis

Recently, several peptides are used as active ingredients in topical cosmetic formulations, few information are available on their dermal stability against proteases. In this study, it was developed a simple and reliable assay to evaluate the stability of cosmeceutical peptides in skin homogenates. The quantification of studied peptides was performed by liquid chromatography coupled with a triple quadrupole mass spectrometer operating in tandem mass spectrometry mode (LC-MS/MS) and the conditions were tuned through energy resolved MS/MS (ERMS) experiments. The sample preparation procedure was carried out on rat skin homogenates by employing pal-KTTKS (reference peptide and the parameters that may affect the assay results were evaluated, including substrate concentration, dilution of skin homogenate, protein concentration and batch-to-batch variation of the homogenate. The optimized conditions were applied to check the degradation profile of pal-KTTKS in human skin samples and the obtained results were compared. Finally, the degradation profiles of SA1-III and pamSA1-III, recently described as cosmeceutical peptides, in human skin homogenate were evaluated. The results showed that proposed peptides are stable toward proteases for up to 8 h of incubation. Thanks to this characteristic, these peptides can be considered very interesting candidates as active ingredients for creams intended for a daily application.

Cosmeceutical Peptides in the Framework of Sustainable Wellness Economy

Among the many aspects that contribute to the wellness of each individual, healthy and younger-looking skin play a relevant role, as clearly shown by the important growth of the skin-care products market observed in recent years. In this scenario, the field of cosmeceuticals appears particularly promising, being based on cosmetic products containing active ingredients. Among these, several peptides were proposed for cosmeceutical applications, thanks to their specific interaction with biological targets. In this mini-review, we report some of the most investigated and used peptides for cosmetic formulations, taking into account that cosmeceutical peptides are basically divided into three main categories (i.e., neurotransmitter inhibitors, carriers, and signal peptides). Special attention was payed to the scientific studies supporting the claimed biological activity of these peptides, as a fundamental aspect that should underpin the growth of this field in the framework of a sustainable wellness economy.

The Effects of a Novel Series of KTTKS Analogues on Cytotoxicity and Proteolytic Activity

KTTKS is a matrikine that originates from the proteolytic hydrolysis of collagen. This peptide stimulates ECM production and types I and III collagen expression in vitro. A more stable form of KTTKS is pal-KTTKS, known as Matrixyl^® or palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. A series of novel pentapeptides, analogues of KTTKS with the general formula X-KTTKS-OH(NH₂), where X = acetyl, lipoyl, palmitoyl residues, was designed and synthesized. Their effect on amidolytic activity of urokinase, thrombin, trypsin, plasmin, t-PA, and kallikrein were tested. Cytotoxic tests on fibroblasts, as well as collagen and DNA biosynthesis tests for selected peptides, were also carried out. The test results showed that the most active plasmin inhibitors were palmitoyl peptides, whether in acid or amide form. No biological effects of lysine modification to arginine in the synthesized peptides were found. None of the synthesized peptides was not cytotoxic on fibroblasts, and three of them showed cell growth. These three compounds showed no concentration-activity relationship in the collagen and DNA biosynthesis assays.

Turning a Collagenesis-Inducing Peptide Into a Potent Antibacterial and Antibiofilm Agent Against Multidrug-Resistant Gram-Negative Bacteria

Antimicrobial resistance is becoming one the most serious health threats worldwide, as it not only hampers effective treatment of infectious diseases using current antibiotics, but also increases the risks of medical procedures like surgery, transplantation, bone and dental implantation, chemotherapy, or chronic wound management. To date, there are no effective measures to tackle life-threatening nosocomial infections caused by multidrug resistant bacterial species, of which Gram-negative species within the so-called "ESKAPE" pathogens are the most worrisome. Many such bacteria are frequently isolated from severely infected skin lesions such as diabetic foot ulcers (DFU). In this connection, we are pursuing new peptide constructs encompassing antimicrobial and collagenesis-inducing motifs, to tackle skin and soft tissue infections by exerting a dual effect: antimicrobial protection and faster healing of the wound. This produced peptide 3.1-PP4 showed MIC values as low as 1.0 and 2.1 μM against Escherichia coli and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, respectively, and low toxicity to HFF-1 human fibroblasts. Remarkably, the peptide was also potent against multidrug-resistant isolates of Klebsiella pneumoniae, E. coli, and P. aeruginosa (MIC values between 0.5 and 4.1 μM), and hampered the formation of/disaggregated K. pneumoniae biofilms of resistant clinical isolates. Moreover, this notable hybrid peptide retained the collagenesis-inducing behavior of the reference cosmeceutical peptide C16-PP4 ("Matrixyl"). In conclusion, 3.1-PP4 is a highly promising lead toward development of a topical treatment for severely infected skin injuries.

Halal Cosmetics: A Review on Ingredients, Production, and Testing Methods

The demand for halal cosmetic products among the 2.4 billion Muslim consumers worldwide is increasing. However, the demand for halal cosmetics remains unmet because cosmetics production is dominated by non-halal cosmetic manufacturers, whose production methods may not conform with the requirements of halal science. The development of halal cosmetics and the assessment of their product performance is still in its infancy. The integration of halal science in the manufacture of most cosmetic products remains inadequate. Moreover, there is a global dearth of guiding documents on the development and assessment techniques in the production of comprehensively halal cosmetics. This paper aims to abridge existing literature and knowledge of halal and cosmetic science in order to provide essential technical guidance in the manufacture of halal cosmetics. In addition, the adoption of these methods addresses the unique ethical issues associated with conformance of cosmetics’ product performance to religious practices and halal science. It highlights the applicability of established methods in skin science in the assessment of halal cosmetics.

Emerging PEGylated non-biologic drugs

Introduction: PEGylation is a well-established technology for improving the therapeutic value of drugs by attaching polyethylene glycol (PEG). The first PEGylated enzyme products appeared on the market in the early 1990s; currently, more than 18 PEGylated products have been approved by Food and Drug Administration, which encompass various classes of drug molecules, such as enzymes, interferons, granulocyte colony-stimulating factors, hormones, antibody fragments, coagulation factors, oligonucleotide aptamers, synthetic peptides, and small organic molecules. Areas covered: While PEGylated products mainly comprise biologic drugs, such as recombinant proteins and enzymes, non-biologic drugs have recently emerged as a target for PEGylation. This review focuses on the recent development of PEGylated non-biologic drugs, such as small organic molecules, synthetic peptides, and aptamers. Expert opinion: Several PEGylated versions of anti-cancer drugs, opioid agonists, glucagon-like peptide-1 receptor agonists, and oligonucleotide aptamers are in active development stage, and it is likely that they will have a dramatic impact on the market. Although some safety concerns about PEG in clinical trials have been recently issued, PEGylation is still a commercially attractive proposition as a half-life extension technology for long-acting drug development.

A review of lipidation in the development of advanced protein and peptide therapeutics

The use of biologics (peptide and protein based drugs) has increased significantly over the past few decades. However, their development has been limited by their short half-life, immunogenicity and low membrane permeability, restricting most therapies to extracellular targets and administration by injection. Lipidation is a clinically-proven post-translational modification that has shown great promise to address these issues: improving half-life, reducing immunogenicity and enabling intracellular uptake and delivery across epithelia. Despite its great potential, lipidation remains an underutilized strategy in the clinical translation of lead biologics. We review how lipidation can overcome common challenges in biologics development as well as highlight gaps in our understanding of the effect of lipidation on therapeutic efficacy, where increased research and development efforts may lead to next-generation drugs.

Effect of Palmitoyl-Pentapeptide (Pal-KTTKS) on Wound Contractile Process in Relation with Connective Tissue Growth Factor and α-Smooth Muscle Actin Expression

To evaluate whether Palmitoyl-pentapeptide (Pal-KTTKS), a lipidated subfragment of type 1 pro-collagen (residues 212-216), plays a role in fibroblast contractility, the effect of Pal-KTTKS on the expression of pro-fibrotic mediators in hypertropic scarring were investigated in relation with trans-differentiation of fibroblast to myofibroblast, an icon of scar formation. α-SMA was visualized by immunofluorescence confocal microscopy with a Cy-3-conjugated monoclonal antibody. The extent of α-SMA-positive fibroblasts was determined in collagen lattices and in cell culture study. Pal-KTTKS (0-0.5 µM) induced CTGF and α-SMA protein levels were determined by western blot analysis and fibroblast contractility was assessed in three-dimensional collagen lattice contraction assay. In confocal analysis, fibroblasts were observed as elongated and spindle shapes while myofibroblast observed as squamous, enlarged cells with pronounced stress fibers. Without Pal-KTTKS treatment, three quarters of the fibroblasts differentiates into the myofibroblast; α-SMA-positive stress fibers per field decreased twofold with 0.1 µM Pal-KTTKS treatment (75 ± 7.1 vs 38.6 ± 16.1%, n = 3, p < 0.05). The inhibitory effect was not significant in 0.5 µM Pal-KTTKS treatment. Stress fiber level and collagen contractility correlates with α-SMA expression level. In conclusion, Pal-KTTKS (0.1 µM) reduces α-SMA expression and trans-differentiation of fibroblasts to myofibroblast. The degree of reduction is dose-dependent. An abundance of myofibroblast and fibrotic scarring is correlated with excessive levels of α-SMA and collagen contractility. Delicate balance between the wound healing properties and pro-fibrotic abilities of pentapeptide KTTKS should be considered for selecting therapeutic dose for scar prevention.

Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review of the literature

Skin aging is primarily due to alterations in the dermal extracellular matrix, especially a decrease in collagen I content, fragmentation of collagen fibrils, and accumulation of amorphous elastin material, also known as elastosis. Growth factors and cytokines are included in several cosmetic products intended for skin rejuvenation because of their ability to promote collagen synthesis. Matrikines and matrikine-like peptides offer the advantage of growth factor-like activities but better skin penetration due to their much smaller molecular size. In this review, we summarize the commercially available products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines for which there is evidence that they promote skin rejuvenation.

Skin rejuvenation using cosmetic products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines: a review of the literature

Skin aging is primarily due to alterations in the dermal extracellular matrix, especially a decrease in collagen I content, fragmentation of collagen fibrils, and accumulation of amorphous elastin material, also known as elastosis. Growth factors and cytokines are included in several cosmetic products intended for skin rejuvenation because of their ability to promote collagen synthesis. Matrikines and matrikine-like peptides offer the advantage of growth factor-like activities but better skin penetration due to their much smaller molecular size. In this review, we summarize the commercially available products containing growth factors, cytokines, and matrikines for which there is evidence that they promote skin rejuvenation.