An extensive review on phenolic compounds and their potential estrogenic properties on skin physiology

Polyphenolic compounds constitute a diverse group of natural components commonly occurring in various plant species, known for their potential to exert both beneficial and detrimental effects. Additionally, these polyphenols have also been implicated as endocrine-disrupting (ED) chemicals, raising concerns about their widespread use in the cosmetics industry. In this comprehensive review, we focus on the body of literature pertaining to the estrogenic properties of ED chemicals, with a particular emphasis on the interaction of isoflavones with estrogen receptors. Within this review, we aim to elucidate the multifaceted roles and effects of polyphenols on the skin, exploring their potential benefits as well as their capacity to act as ED agents. By delving into this intricate subject matter, we intend to provoke thoughtful consideration, effectively opening a Pandora's box of questions for the reader to ponder. Ultimately, we invite the reader to contemplate whether polyphenols should be regarded as friends or foes in the realm of skincare and endocrine disruption.

In Silico Models for Skin Sensitization and Irritation

The assessment of skin irritation, and in particular of skin sensitization, has undergone an evolution process over the last years, pushing forward to new heights of quality and innovation. Public and commercial in silico tools have been developed for skin sensitization and irritation, introducing the possibility to simplify the evaluation process and the development of topical products within the dogma of the computational methods, representing the new doctrine in the field of risk assessment.The possibility of using in silico methods is particularly appealing and advantageous due to their high speed and low-cost results.The most widespread and popular topical products are represented by cosmetics. The European Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetic products represents a paradigm shift for the safety assessment of cosmetics transitioning from a classical toxicological approach based on animal testing, towards a completely novel strategy, where the use of animals for toxicity testing is completely banned. In this context sustainable alternatives to animal testing need to be developed, especially for skin sensitization and irritation, two critical and fundamental endpoints for the assessment of cosmetics.The Quantitative Risk Assessment (QRA) methodology and the risk assessment using New Approach Methodologies (NAM) represent new frontiers to further improve the risk assessment process for these endpoints, in particular for skin sensitization.In this chapter we present an overview of the already existing models for skin sensitization and irritation. Some examples are presented here to illustrate tools and platforms used for the evaluation of chemicals.

SpheraCosmolife: a new tool for the risk assessment of cosmetic products

A new, freely available software for cosmetic products has been designed considering the regulatory framework for cosmetics. This software allows an overall toxicological evaluation of cosmetic ingredients without the need of additional testing and, depending on the product type, it applies defined exposure scenarios to derive risk for consumers. It takes regulatory thresholds into account and uses either experimental values, if available, or predictions.  Based on experimental or predicted no observed adverse effect level (NOAEL), the software can define a point of departure (POD), which is useful to calculate the margin of safety (MoS) of the query chemicals. The software also provides other toxicological properties, such as mutagenicity, skin sensitization and the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) to provide an overall evaluation of the potential chemical hazard. Predictions are calculated using in silico models implemented within the VEGA software. The full list of ingredients of a cosmetic product can be processed at the same time, at the effective concentration in the product given by the user. SpheraCosmolife is designed as a support tool for the safety assessors of cosmetic products and can be used to prioritize the cosmetic ingredients or formulations according to their potential risk for the consumers. The major novelty of the tool is that it wraps a series of models (some of them new) into a single user-friendly software system.

Safety evaluation of traces of nickel and chrome in cosmetics: The case of Dead Sea mud

BACKGROUND

Metal impurities such as nickel and chrome are present in natural ingredients-containing cosmetic products. These traces are unavoidable due to the ubiquitous nature of these elements. Dead Sea mud is a popular natural ingredient of cosmetic products in which nickel and chrome residues are likely to occur.

OBJECTIVE

To analyze the potential systemic and local toxicity of Dead Sea mud taking into consideration Dead Sea muds' natural content of nickel and chrome.

METHODS

The following endpoints were evaluated: (Regulation No. 1223/20, 21/12/2009) systemic and (SCCS's Notes of Guidance) local toxicity of topical application of Dead Sea mud; health reports during the last five years of commercial marketing of Dead Sea mud.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS

Following exposure to Dead Sea mud, MoS (margin of safety) calculations for nickel and chrome indicate no toxicological concern for systemic toxicity. Skin sensitization is also not to be expected by exposure of normal healthy skin to Dead Sea mud. Topical application, however, is not recommended for already nickel-or chrome-sensitized persons. As risk assessment of impurities present in cosmetics may be a difficult exercise, the case of Dead Sea mud is taken here as an example of a natural material that may contain traces of unavoidable metals.

Release-enhancing pre-synaptic muscarinic and nicotinic receptors co-exist and interact on dopaminergic nerve endings of rat nucleus accumbens

Dopaminergic nerve endings in the corpus striatum possess nicotinic (nAChRs) and muscarinic cholinergic receptors (mAChRs) mediating release of dopamine (DA). Whether nAChRs and mAChRs co-exist and interact on the same nerve endings is unknown. We here investigate on these possibilities using rat nucleus accumbens synaptosomes pre-labeled with [(3)H]DA and exposed in superfusion to cholinergic receptor ligands. The mixed nAChR-mAChR agonists acetylcholine (ACh) and carbachol provoked [(3)H]DA release partially sensitive to the mAChR antagonist atropine but totally blocked by the nAChR antagonist mecamylamine. Addition of the mAChR agonist oxotremorine at the minimally effective concentration of 30 micromol/L, together with 3, 10, or 100 micromol/L (-)nicotine provoked synergistic effect on [(3)H]DA overflow. The [(3)H]DA overflow elicited by 100 micromol/L (-)nicotine plus 30 micromol/L oxotremorine was reduced by atropine down to the release produced by (-)nicotine alone and it was abolished by mecamylamine. The ryanodine receptor blockers dantrolene or 8-bromo-cADP-ribose, but not the inositol 1,4,5-trisphosphate receptor blocker xestospongin C inhibited the (-)nicotine/oxotremorine evoked [(3)H]DA overflow similarly to atropine. This overflow was partly sensitive to 100 nmol/L methyllycaconitine which did not prevent the synergistic effect of (-)nicotine/oxotremorine. Similarly to (-)nicotine, the selective alpha4beta2 nAChR agonist RJR2403 exhibited synergism when added together with oxotremorine. To conclude, in rat nucleus accumbens, alpha4beta2 nAChRs exert a permissive role on the releasing function of reportedly M(5) mAChRs co-existing on the same dopaminergic nerve endings.

Modulation of the function of presynaptic alpha7 and non-alpha7 nicotinic receptors by the tryptophan metabolites, 5-hydroxyindole and kynurenate in mouse brain

BACKGROUND AND PURPOSE

Two metabolites of tryptophan, 5-hydroxyindole and kynurenic acid (kynurenate) affect the function of alpha7 nicotinic acetylcholine receptors (nAChRs), as measured by electrophysiological and Ca2+ fluorescence techniques. To better understand the modulations by 5-hydroxyindole and kynurenate of the function of nAChR subtypes, we compared the effects of 5-hydroxyindole and kynurenate on the release of various transmitters evoked by nAChR activation.

EXPERIMENTAL APPROACH

The function of alpha7nAChRs located on glutamatergic terminals was investigated by monitoring the release of [3H]D-aspartate or of endogenous glutamate from neocortical synaptosomes. We also comparatively considered non-alpha7 release-enhancing nAChRs localized on hippocampal noradrenergic or cholinergic terminals, as well as on striatal dopaminergic terminals.

KEY RESULTS

Epibatidine or nicotine, inactive on their own on basal release, enhanced [3H]D- aspartate and glutamate efflux in presence of 5-hydroxyindole. The release evoked by nicotine plus 5-hydroxyindole was abolished by methyllycaconitine or alpha-bungarotoxin. Presynaptic nAChRs mediating the release of [3H]noradrenaline ([3H]NA), [3H]dopamine ([3H]DA), or [3H]ACh were inhibited by 5-OHi. The alpha7nAChR-mediated release of [3H]D-aspartate was reduced by kynurenate at concentrations unable to affect the non-alpha7 receptor-mediated release of tritiated NA, DA or ACh.

CONCLUSIONS AND IMPLICATIONS

(i) 5-hydroxyindole permits selective activation of alpha7nAChRs mediating glutamate release; (ii) kynurenate down-regulates the permissive role of 5-hydroxyindole on alpha7nAChR activation; (iii) the non-alpha7nAChRs mediating release of NA, DA or ACh can be inhibited by 5-hydroxyindole, but not by kynurenate. These findings suggest up the possibility of developing novel drugs able to modulate selectively the cholinergic-glutamatergic transmission.