Multicenter methodology comparison of the FDA and ISO standard for measurement of in vitro UVA protection of sunscreen products

In vitro standard methods are available and accepted worldwide to assess UVA protection of sunscreen products. Though, harmonisation of methods has made progress in the last decade, still two differing methods - one by FDA the other by ISO - are in use. In a multicentre study including 9 centres in Germany, 4 different commercial sunscreen products were assessed using both methods to discover their similarities and differences. UVA protection factor and Critical Wavelength were detected at various substrate type (sandblasted versus moulded PMMA plates), at different surface roughness of the plates as well as at different product application dose using two different irradiation spectra. Results: The strongest influence on UVA protection factor results from the surface roughness of the plates. Depending on the roughness (accepted range of 2 to 7 μm in the FDA method) a variability in the UVA protection factor of up to 25% was observed, while the much narrower definition of plate roughness by ISO (4.5 to 5.2 μm) had no relevant influence on the test results. Sandblasted plates in our assessment led to higher UVA protection factors and produced less scattered results compared to moulded plates. These differences were not pronounced. Application dose and spectra of the irradiation source were of negligible influence on UVA protection factor results for the investigated UV-filter combinations. The UVA protection factor which is the endpoint of the ISO method was found to be a parameter with a high potential to differentiate among different test products. The endpoint of the FDA method - the Critical Wavelength - was found to be an unambitious endpoint. Insensitivity to all described modifications of the method was observed. All investigated products performed similar and passed the Critical Wavelength criteria independent of method and parameters.

Photobiologische Wirkungen der Sonnenstrahlung auf die Haut und Schutz durch Sonnenschutzmittel

Die Wellenlängenabhängigkeit photobiologischer Wirkungen wird durch Wirkungsspektren beschrieben. Die physikalischen Voraussetzungen für die Ermittlung und Anwendung von Wirkungsspektren werden erläutert. Die Bewertung von Strahlungsquellen durch Wirkungsspektren wird am Beispiel der Erythembildung und der Bildung von Provitamin D gezeigt.

Die Schutzwirkung von Sonnenschutzmitteln in verschiedenen Spektralbereichen kann durch die Wahl geeigneter UV-Absorber variiert werden. Die Bestimmung von Schutzfaktoren gegenüber erythemwirksamer Strahlung und UVA-Strahlung wird beschrieben. Sonnenschutzmittel reduzieren automatisch auch diejenigen Strahlungsanteile, die für die Produktion von Provitamin D verantwortlich sind. Es wird eine Optimierung von Sonnenschutzmitteln beschrieben, die bei vorgegebenem Erythemschutz ein Optimum an Provitamin D-erzeugender Strahlung auf der Haut zulassen.

In vitro testing to assess the UVA protection performance of sun care products

The UVA protection delivered by sunscreens is an issue of increasing importance due to the increasing knowledge about UVA-induced skin damage. In Europe there is no officially accepted method available to determine the degree of UVA protection. Therefore, the objective of the present study was to design a protocol combining the merits of an in vitro model, which are simple and reproducible, with aspects known to be relevant from in vivo studies. The principle is: an UV-transparent support to which the test product is applied, a (pre)irradiation and a transmission measurement. Transpore(R) tape (standard support for SPF determinations) was found to be incompatible with many preparations on prolonged contact times. Roughened quartz was adopted as a suitable alternative. Transmission measurements on this support are not reliable with a layer of 2 mg cm(-2) (standard for SPF) due to detection limitations of spectrophotometers, hence a reduced layer of 0.75 mg cm(-2) was adopted. Overall, it is very difficult to apply products in a reproducible thin layer on appropriate substrates. As a consequence, absolute parameters derived from the transmission profile show relatively large dispersion, whereas relative parameters, such as critical wavelength lambda(c)[1] or UVA/UVB ratio are much less sensitive to unavoidable variations in layer thickness. An increase in deviations was observed when the samples were irradiated before measurement. It is crucial to control the output carefully (spectral distribution and even more importantly, irradiance and dose delivered) of the light source. By doing so and also taking into account the previous learning steps, a protocol was drafted and tested in a ringtest (four samples in six laboratories). The results are encouraging and show that if relative parameters (e.g. lambda(c), UVA/UVB ratio) are considered, the intra- as well as interlaboratory reproducibility is clearly better than can be obtained in vivo. In general, we describe a suitable method, which can be considered in any future official discussions about the methodology to determine UVA protection.

Comparison of sun protection factors determined by an in vivo and different in vitro methodologies: a study with 58 different commercially available sunscreen products

An extensive study on the sun protection factors (SPF) of sun care products was carried out using the COLIPA (The European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association) method, which relates to in vivo experiments. Furthermore, in vitro methods were tested with sunscreen formulations that were prepared as films on surface-roughened plates of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA). One of the in vitro methods, i.e. using the sunscreen tester, has been recently developed, whereas the second has been defined by a pure spectroscopic approach, which is based on spectral transmission measurements of sunscreen films. Altogether 58 different sunscreen formulations, with manufacturer declared SPF values ranging from 4 to 60 and currently available on the European market, were investigated. The quality of correlations with results from the individual products based on the different in vitro methods versus the COLIPA values that were considered as generally accepted standard values was assessed. In this context, also variations because of sample preparation and spectral measurement were discussed. For sunscreen products with in vivo SPF values larger 25, the spectral transmittance within the UVA/UVB range is rapidly decreasing, which is experienced even for products with reduced amounts reaching 0.5 mg cm(-2) and still leading to unsatisfactory correlation of the spectroscopically derived SPF values versus the results from the alternative assays. Opposite to these small amounts, a sunscreen product spread of 2 mg cm(-2) is standard for the in vivo COLIPA method, whereas an area-normalized amount of 1 mg cm(-2) is currently routinely used for the sunscreen tester method. Furthermore, an overview of the individual product characteristics, such as their specific critical wavelengths and their UVA/UVB ratios is provided; both parameters can also be calculated from the spectral absorbances of the standardized sunscreen films.

[UV, visible and infrared light. Which wavelengths produce oxidative stress in human skin?]

Experimental evidence suggests that the creation of free radicals--mainly reactive oxygen species (ROS)--is the common photobiological answer to the skin-sunlight interaction. The free radical action spectrum (wavelength dependency) for ultraviolet and visible light (280-700 nm) has been determined by quantitative ESR spectroscopy. Visible light produces around 50% of the total oxidative stress caused by sunlight. Reactive species like *O(-)(2), *OH and *CHR are generated by visible light. The amount of ROS correlates with the visible light intensity (illuminance). We demonstrated the creation of excess free radicals by near-infrared light (NIR, 700-1600 nm). Free radical generation does not depend exclusively on the NIR irradiance, but also on the NIR initiated skin temperature increase. The temperature dependence follows the physiological fever curve. Our results indicate that the complex biological system skin creates the same type of free radicals over the entire active solar spectrum. This general response will make it possible to define the beneficial or deleterious action of sunlight on human skin by introduction of a free radical threshold value.

Influence of Applied Quantity of Sunscreen Products on the Sun Protection Factor – A Multicenter Study Organized by the DGK Task Force Sun Protection

It is often debated that the protection against solar-induced erythema under real conditions is dependent upon the amount of sunscreen applied. It is believed that when too little is applied a lower sun protection than indicated on the label will result. The aim of this study was to quantify this effect. In this multicenter study, the influence of three different amounts (0.5, 1.0, 2.0 mg/cm(2)) of three commercial sunscreen products in three reliable test centers was investigated according to the test protocol of The International Sun Protection Factor Test Method. The main result was a linear dependence of the SPF on the quantity applied. Taking into consideration the volunteer-specific variations, an exponential dependence of confidence interval of the in vivo SPF and amount applied was found. The highest amount applied (2.0 mg/cm(2)) was linked to the lowest confidence intervals. Thus, from the point of view of producing reliable and reproducible in vivo results under laboratory conditions, the recommendation of this multicenter study is an application quantity of 2.0 mg/cm(2).