Nonlinear Fourier classification of 663 rogue waves measured in the Philippine Sea

Rogue waves are sudden and extreme occurrences, with heights that exceed twice the significant wave height of their neighboring waves. The formation of rogue waves has been attributed to several possible mechanisms such as linear superposition of random waves, dispersive focusing, and modulational instability. Recently, nonlinear Fourier transforms (NFTs), which generalize the usual Fourier transform, have been leveraged to analyze oceanic rogue waves. Next to the usual linear Fourier modes, NFTs can additionally uncover nonlinear Fourier modes in time series that are usually hidden. However, so far only individual oceanic rogue waves have been analyzed using NFTs in the literature. Moreover, the completely different types of nonlinear Fourier modes have been observed in these studies. Exploiting twelve years of field measurement data from an ocean buoy, we apply the nonlinear Fourier transform (NFT) for the nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLSE) (referred to NLSE-NFT) to a large dataset of measured rogue waves. While the NLSE-NFT has been used to analyze rogue waves before, this is the first time that it is systematically applied to a large real-world dataset of deep-water rogue waves. We categorize the measured rogue waves into four types based on the characteristics of the largest nonlinear mode: stable, small breather, large breather and (envelope) soliton. We find that all types can occur at a single site, and investigate which conditions are dominated by a single type at the measurement site. The one and two-dimensional Benjamin-Feir indices (BFIs) are employed to examine the four types of nonlinear spectra. Furthermore, we verify on a part of the data set that for the localized types, the largest nonlinear Fourier mode can be attributed directly to the rogue wave, and investigate the relation between the height of the rogue waves and that of the dominant nonlinear Fourier mode. While the dominant nonlinear Fourier mode in general only contributes a small fraction of the rogue wave, we find that soliton modes can contribute up to half of the rogue wave. Since the NLSE does not account for directional spreading, the classification is repeated for the first quartile with the lowest directional spreading for each type. Similar results are obtained.

Incorporating stakeholders' preferences into a multi-criteria framework for planning large-scale Nature-Based Solutions

Hydro-meteorological risks are a growing issue for societies, economies and environments around the world. An effective, sustainable response to such risks and their future uncertainty requires a paradigm shift in our research and practical efforts. In this respect, Nature-Based Solutions (NBSs) offer the potential to achieve a more effective and flexible response to hydro-meteorological risks while also enhancing human well-being and biodiversity. The present paper describes a new methodology that incorporates stakeholders' preferences into a multi-criteria analysis framework, as part of a tool for selecting risk mitigation measures. The methodology has been applied to Tamnava river basin in Serbia and Nangang river basin in Taiwan within the EC-funded RECONECT project. The results highlight the importance of involving stakeholders in the early stages of projects in order to achieve successful implementation of NBSs. The methodology can assist decision-makers in formulating desirable benefits and co-benefits and can enable a systematic and transparent NBSs planning process.

Development of a GNSS Buoy for Monitoring Water Surface Elevations in Estuaries and Coastal Areas

In this work, a Global Navigation Satellite System (GNSS) buoy that utilizes a Virtual Base Station (VBS) combined with the Real-Time Kinematic (RTK) positioning technology was developed to monitor water surface elevations in estuaries and coastal areas. The GNSS buoy includes a buoy hull, a RTK GNSS receiver, data-transmission devices, a data logger, and General Purpose Radio Service (GPRS) modems for transmitting data to the desired land locations. Laboratory and field tests were conducted to test the capability of the buoy and verify the accuracy of the monitored water surface elevations. For the field tests, the GNSS buoy was deployed in the waters of Suao (northeastern part of Taiwan). Tide data obtained from the GNSS buoy were consistent with those obtained from the neighboring tide station. Significant wave heights, zero-crossing periods, and peak wave directions obtained from the GNSS buoy were generally consistent with those obtained from an accelerometer-tilt-compass (ATC) sensor. The field tests demonstrate that the developed GNSS buoy can be used to obtain accurate real-time tide and wave data in estuaries and coastal areas.

Wave measurements using GPS velocity signals

This study presents the idea of using GPS-output velocity signals to obtain wave measurement data. The application of the transformation from a velocity spectrum to a displacement spectrum in conjunction with the directional wave spectral theory are the core concepts in this study. Laboratory experiments were conducted to verify the accuracy of the inversed displacement of the surface of the sea. A GPS device was installed on a moored accelerometer buoy to verify the GPS-derived wave parameters. It was determined that loss or drifting of the GPS signal, as well as energy spikes occurring in the low frequency band led to erroneous measurements. Through the application of moving average skill and a process of frequency cut-off to the GPS output velocity, correlations between GPS-derived, and accelerometer buoy-measured significant wave heights and periods were both improved to 0.95. The GPS-derived one-dimensional and directional wave spectra were in agreement with the measurements. Despite the direction verification showing a 10° bias, this exercise still provided useful information with sufficient accuracy for a number of specific purposes. The results presented in this study indicate that using GPS output velocity is a reasonable alternative for the measurement of ocean waves.

Quantity, distribution, and impacts of coastal driftwood triggered by a typhoon

Typhoon Morakot pounded Taiwan in 2009 with record-breaking rainfall, washing an unprecedented amount of driftwood into the sea that was partially deposited at the coastal areas. According to the satellite imagery analysis, more than three million trees fell and were washed away to occupy 83.2% of the Taiwanese coastline, including 52 fishing harbors. The amount cleaned-up was only 1/7 of the total coastal driftwood. It was found that the amount of coastal driftwood is not only related to the amount of precipitation but is also related to the distance from the location of the landslide to the river mouth and to the landslide area. The amount of accumulated coastal driftwood demonstrated log-profile declines with increasing distance to the river mouth. Nearshore current and wave motion are the critical factors for driftwood deposition. Much of the driftwood washed into the sea harmed the tourism and fishing industries, endangered navigation and oceanic activities, and impacted the marine environment and ecosystem.