Raman and AFM-IR chemical imaging of stratum corneum model membranes

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the epidermis, is the primary barrier to percutaneous absorption. The diffusion of substances through the skin occurs through the SC lipid fraction, which is essentially constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides, free fatty acids, and cholesterol. The lipid constituents of SC are mainly forming continuous multilamellar membranes in the solid/crystalline state. However, recent findings suggest the presence of a highly disordered (liquid) phase formed by the unsaturated C18 chain of ceramide EOS, surrounded by a highly ordered lipid environment. The aim of the present work was to study the lipid spatial distribution of model SC membranes composed of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, a mixture of free fatty acids, and cholesterol, using Raman microspectroscopy and AFM-IR spectroscopy techniques. The enhanced spatial resolution at the tens of nanometers scale of the AFM-IR technique revealed that the lipid matrix is overall homogeneous, with the presence of small, slightly enriched, and depleted regions in a lipid component. No liquid domains of ceramide EOS were observed at this scale, a result that is consistent with the model proposing that the oleate nanodrops are concentrated in the central layer of the three-layer organization of the SC membranes forming the long periodicity phase. In addition, both Raman microspectroscopy and AFM-IR techniques confirmed the fluid nature of the unsaturated chain of ceramide EOS while the rest of the lipid matrix was found highly ordered.

Characterization of human skin equivalents developed at body's core and surface temperatures

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are in vitro developed three‐dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) to a high extent. However, the epidermal lipid biosynthesis, barrier lipid composition, and organization are altered, leading to an elevated diffusion rate of therapeutic molecules. The altered lipid barrier formation in HSEs may be induced by standardized culture conditions, including a culture temperature of 37°C, which is dissimilar to skin surface temperature. Therefore, we aim to determine the influence of culture temperature during the generation of full thickness models (FTMs) on epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation. For this purpose, FTMs were developed at conventional core temperature (37°C) or lower temperatures (35°C and 33°C) and evaluated over a time period of 4 weeks. The stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition was analysed using advanced liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analysis. Our results show that SC layers accumulated at a similar rate irrespective of culture temperature. At reduced culture temperature, an increased epidermal thickness, a disorganization of the lower epidermal cell layers, a delayed early differentiation, and an enlargement of granular cells were detected. Interestingly, melanogenesis was reduced at lower temperature. The ceramide subclass profile, chain length distribution, and level of unsaturated ceramides were similar in FTMs generated at 37°C and 35°C but changed when generated at 33°C, reducing the resemblance to NHS. Herein, we report that culture temperature affects epidermal morphogenesis substantially and to a lesser extent the lipid barrier formation, highlighting the importance of optimized external parameters during reconstruction of skin.

Shedding light on the effects of 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D3 on epidermal lipid barrier formation in three-dimensional human skin equivalents

Human skin equivalents (HSEs) are three dimensional models resembling native human skin (NHS) in many aspects. Despite the manifold similarities to NHS, a restriction in its applications is the altered in vitro lipid barrier formation, which compromises the barrier functionality. This could be induced by suboptimal cell culturing conditions, which amongst others is the diminished activation of the vitamin D receptor (VDR) signalling pathway. The active metabolite of this signalling pathway is 1,25-dihydroxyvitamin D₃ (1,25(OH)₂D₃). An interacting role in the formation of the skin barrier has been ascribed to this pathway, although it remains unresolved to which extent this pathway contributes to the (mal-)formation of the epidermal barrier in HSEs. Our aim is to study whether cell culture medium enriched with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ affects epidermal morphogenesis and lipid barrier formation in HSEs. Addition of 20 nM 1,25(OH)₂D₃ resulted in activation of the VDR signalling pathway by inducing transcription of VDR target genes (CYP24A and LL37) in keratinocyte monocultures and in HSEs. Characterization of HSEs supplemented with 1,25(OH)₂D₃ using immunohistochemical analyses revealed a high similarity in epidermal morphogenesis and in expression of lipid processing enzymes. The barrier formation was assessed using state-of-the art techniques analysing lipid composition and organization. Addition of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ did not alter the composition of ceramides. Additionally, the lateral and lamellar organization of the lipids was similar, irrespective of supplementation. In conclusion, epidermal morphogenesis and barrier formation in HSEs generated in presence or absence of 1,25(OH)₂D₃ leads to a similar morphogenesis and comparable barrier formation in vitro.

Determination of the influence of C24 D/(2R)- and L/(2S)-isomers of the CER[AP] on the lamellar structure of stratum corneum model systems using neutron diffraction

This study was able to investigate the different influence of the d- and l-ceramide [AP] on the lamellar as well as molecular nanostructure of stratum corneum simulating lipid model mixtures. In this case, neutron diffraction together with specifically deuterated ceramide was used as an effective tool to investigate the lamellar and the molecular nanostructure of the mixtures. It could clearly be demonstrated, that both isomers show distinctly different characteristics, even though the variation between both is only a single differently arranged OH-group. The l-ceramide [AP] promotes a crystalline like phase behaviour even if mixed with ceramide [NP], cholesterol and free fatty acids. The d-ceramide [AP] only shows crystalline-like features if mixed only with cholesterol and free fatty acids but adopts a native-like behaviour if additionally mixed with ceramide [NP]. It furthermore demonstrates that the l-ceramide [AP] should not be used for any applications concerning ceramide substitution. It could however possibly serve its own purpose, if this crystalline like behaviour has some kind of positive influence on the SC or can be utilized for any practical applications. The results obtained in this study demonstrate that the diastereomers of ceramide [AP] are an attractive target for further research because their influence on the lamellar as well as the nanostructure is exceptionally strong. Additionally, the results furthermore show a very strong influence on hydration of the model membrane. With these properties, the d-ceramide [AP] could be effectively used to simulate native like behaviour even in very simple mixtures and could also have a strong impact on the native stratum corneum as well as high relevance for dermal ceramide substitution. The unnatural l-ceramide [AP] on the other hand should be investigated further, to assess its applicability.

Evidence of hydrocarbon nanodrops in highly ordered stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of skin, dictates the rate of both water loss through the skin and absorption of exogenous molecules into the body. The crystalline organization of the lipids in the SC is believed to be a key feature associated with the very limited permeability of the skin. In this work, we characterized the organization of SC lipid models that include, as in native SC, cholesterol, a series of FFAs (saturated with C16-C24 chains), as well as a ceramide bearing an oleate chain-linked to a very long saturated acyl chain [N-melissoyl-oleoyloxy hexacosanoyl-D-erythro-sphingosine (Cer EOS)]. The latter is reported to be essential for the native SC lipid organization. Our ²H-NMR, infrared, and Raman spectroscopy data reveal that Cer EOS leads to the formation of highly disordered liquid domains in a solid/crystalline matrix. The lipid organization imposes steric constraint on Cer EOS oleate chains in such a way that these hydrocarbon nanodroplets remain in the liquid state down to -30°C. These findings modify the structural description of the SC substantially and propose a novel role of Cer EOS, as this lipid is a strong modulator of SC solid/liquid balance.

Altered expression of epidermal lipid bio-synthesis enzymes in atopic dermatitis skin is accompanied by changes in stratum corneum lipid composition

BACKGROUND

The barrier dysfunction in atopic dermatitis (AD) skin correlates with stratum corneum (SC) lipid abnormalities including reduction of global lipid content, shorter ceramide (CER) as well as free fatty acid (FFA) chain length and altered CER subclass levels. However, the underlying cause of these changes in lipid composition has not been fully investigated.

AIM

We investigated whether the expression of CER and FFA biosynthesis enzymes are altered in AD skin compared with control skin and determine whether changes in enzyme expression can be related with changes in lipid composition.

METHODS

In AD patients and controls the expression of enzymes involved in the biosynthesis of FFAs and CERs was analyzed in relation to the SC lipid composition. These enzymes include stearoyl CoA desaturase (SCD), elongase 1 (ELOVL1) and ELOVL6 involved in FFA synthesis and β-glucocerebrosidase (GBA), acid-sphingomyelinase (aSmase), ceramide synthase 3 (CerS3) involved in CER synthesis. In TH2 treated human skin equivalents (AD HSEs) mimicking lesional AD skin, the mRNA expression of these enzymes was investigated.

RESULTS

The results reveal an altered expression of SCD and ELOVL1 in AD lesional skin. This was accompanied by functional changes displayed by increased unsaturated FFAs (SCD) and reduced FFA C22-C28 (ELOVL1) in AD lesional skin. The expression of GBA, aSmase and CerS3 were also altered in lesional skin. The CER composition in AD lesional skin showed corresponding changes such as increased CER AS and NS (aSmase) and decreased esterified ω-hydroxy CERs (CerS3). In support of the results from AD skin, the AD HSEs showed reduced mRNA ELOVL1, GBA and a Smase levels.

CONCLUSION

This study shows that alterations in the expression of key enzymes involved in SC lipid synthesis contribute to changes in the lipid composition in AD skin and inflammation may influence expression of these enzymes.

Ceramides in the skin lipid membranes: length matters

Ceramides are essential constituents of the skin barrier that allow humans to live on dry land. Reduced levels of ceramides have been associated with skin diseases, e.g., atopic dermatitis. However, the structural requirements and mechanisms of action of ceramides are not fully understood. Here, we report the effects of ceramide acyl chain length on the permeabilities and biophysics of lipid membranes composed of ceramides (or free sphingosine), fatty acids, cholesterol, and cholesterol sulfate. Short-chain ceramides increased the permeability of the lipid membranes compared to a long-chain ceramide with maxima at 4-6 carbons in the acyl. By a combination of differential scanning calorimetry, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, Langmuir monolayers, and atomic force microscopy, we found that the reason for this effect in short ceramides was a lower proportion of tight orthorhombic packing and phase separation of continuous short ceramide-enriched domains with shorter lamellar periodicity compared to native long ceramides. Thus, long acyl chains in ceramides are essential for the formation of tightly packed impermeable lipid lamellae. Moreover, the model skin lipid membranes are a valuable tool to study the relationships between the lipid structure and composition, lipid organization, and the membrane permeability.

Physicochemical characterization of drug-loaded rigid and elastic vesicles

Ketorolac loaded rigid and elastic vesicles were prepared by sonication and the physicochemical properties of the drug loaded-vesicle formulations were examined. Rigid and elastic vesicles were prepared from the double chain surfactant sucrose-ester laurate (L-595) and the single chain surfactant octaoxyethylene-laurate ester (PEG-8-L). Sulfosuccinate (TR-70) was used as a negative charge inducer. Evaluation of the prepared vesicle was performed by dynamic light scattering, extrusion and by (1)H NMR (T(2) relaxation studies). The vesicles mean size varied between 90 and 150 nm. The elasticity of the vesicles was enhanced with increasing PEG-8-L/L-595 ratio, while an increase in loading of ketorolac resulted in a reduction in vesicle elasticity. (1)H NMR measurements showed that the molecular mobility of ketorolac was restricted, which indicates that ketorolac molecules were entrapped within the vesicle bilayers. The T(2) values of the aromatic protons of ketorolac increased gradually at higher PEG-8-L levels, indicating that ketorolac mobility increased in the vesicle bilayer. The chemical stability of ketorolac was dramatically improved in the vesicle formulation compared to a buffer solution. The strong interactions of ketorolac with the bilayers of the vesicles might be the explanation for this increased stability of ketorolac.

Effect of the ω-acylceramides on the lipid organization of stratum corneum model membranes evaluated by X-ray diffraction and FTIR studies (Part I)

The lipid organization in the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is important for the skin barrier function. The stratum corneum lipids are composed of ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL). In the present study Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) and small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) techniques were utilized to evaluate the effect of three C18 fatty acid esterified ω-acylceramides (CER EOS) on the lipid organization of stratum corneum model membranes. FTIR spectra (scissoring and rocking bands) showed as a function of temperature significant line-shape changes for both components assigned to the orthorhombic phase. Second-derivative analyzes revealed a significant decrease in the interchain coupling strength (Δν values) for the samples formed by CER EOS with the linoleate (CER EOS-L) and oleate (CER EOS-O) moiety around 28.5°C. However, only a gradual decrease in the Δν values was noticed for the mixture formed with CER EOS with the stearate moiety (CER EOS-S) over the whole temperature range. In the absence of CER EOS the decrease started already at 25.5°C, demonstrating that CER EOS stabilized the orthorhombic lattice. This stabilization was most pronounced for the CER EOS-S. Spectral fittings allowed to evaluate the orientation changes of the skeletal plane within the orthorhombic unit cell (θ values) for a given temperature range. From the best-fit parameters (peak area values), a decrease in the orthorhombic phase contribution to the scissoring band was also monitored as a function of the temperature. SAXS studies showed the coexistence of two lamellar phases with a periodicity of ∼5.5 nm (short periodicity phase, SPP) and ∼12 nm (LPP) in the presence of the CER EOS-L and CER EOS-O. However, no diffraction peaks associated to the LPP were detected for CER EOS-S. While CER EOS-S most efficiently stabilized the orthorhombic phase, CER EOS-L and CER EOS-O promoted the presence of the LPP. Therefore, the presence of all three CER EOS as observed in human stratum corneum may contribute to a proper skin barrier function.

Preparation and characterization of a stratum corneum substitute for in vitro percutaneous penetration studies

The intercellular stratum corneum (SC) lipids form the main barrier for diffusion of substances through the skin. A porous substrate covered with synthetic SC lipids would be an attractive model to study percutaneous penetration, hereby replacing native human SC. Prerequisite is that this stratum corneum substitute (SCS) is prepared with a uniform lipid composition and layer thickness. Furthermore, the lipid organization and orientation should resemble that in SC. The objective of this study was to investigate the utility of an airbrush spraying device to prepare a SCS composed of cholesterol, ceramides and free fatty acids on a polycarbonate filter. The results demonstrate that a proper choice of solvent mixture and lipid concentration is crucial to achieve a uniform distribution of the applied lipids over the filter surface. A smooth and tightly packed lipid layer is only obtained when the equilibration conditions are appropriately chosen. The SCS possesses two crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities similar to those present in native SC. The orientation of these lamellae is mainly parallel to the surface of the polycarbonate filter, which resembles the orientation of the intercellular SC lipids. In conclusion, the airbrush technique enables generation of a homogeneous SCS, which ultimately may function as a predictive in vitro percutaneous penetration model.

Acylceramide Head Group Architecture Affects Lipid Organization in Synthetic Ceramide Mixtures

The lipid organization in the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is important for the skin barrier function. This lipid organization, including the characteristic 13 nm lamellar phase, can be reproduced in vitro with mixtures based on cholesterol, free fatty acids and natural as well as synthetic ceramides (CER). In human SC, nine CER classes have been identified (CER1-CER9). Detailed studies on the effect of molecular structure of individual ceramides on the SC lipid organization are only possible with synthetic lipid mixtures, as their composition can be accurately chosen and systematically modified. In the present study, small-angle X-ray diffraction was used to examine the organization in synthetic lipid mixtures of which the synthetic ceramide fraction was prepared with sphingosine-based CER1 or phytosphingosine-based CER9. The latter acylceramide contains an additional hydroxyl group at the sphingoid backbone. The results show that a gradual increase in CER1 level consistently promotes the formation of the 13 nm lamellar phase and that partial replacement of CER1 by CER9 does not affect the phase behavior. Interestingly, complete substitution of CER1 with CER9 reduces the formation of the long periodicity phase and results in phase separation of CER9.

The lipid organisation of the skin barrier: liquid and crystalline domains coexist in lamellar phases

The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is the main barrier for diffusion of substances across the skin. The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes embedded in lipid lamellae. In previous studies two lamellar phases have been identified with periodicities of 6.4 and 13.4 nm of which the 13.4 nm phase (long periodicity phase = LPP) is considered to be very important for the skin banier function. The main lipid classes in stratumcorneum are ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Until now 8 subclassesof ceramides are identified in human stratum corneum referred to as ceramide 1 to 8. Studies with mixtures prepared with isolated human ceramides revealed that cholesterol and ceramides are very important for the formation of the lamellar phases. After addition of free fatty acids the lipids are organised in an orthorhombic packing with a small proportion of lipids in a liquid phase. Our most recent results show that the presence of ceramide 1 and the formation of a liquid phase are crucial elements for the formation of the LPP. These observations and the broad-narrowbroad sequence of lipid layers in the LPP led us to propose a molecular model for this phase. This consists of one narrow central lipid layer with fluid domains with on both sides a broad layer with a crystalline structure. This model is referred to as `the sandwich model'.

New aspects of the skin barrier organization

In the superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), the lipids form two crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities of 6.4 and 13.4 nm (long-periodicity phase). The main lipid classes in SC are ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol. Studies with mixtures prepared with isolated ceramides revealed that cholesterol and ceramides are very important for the formation of the lamellar phases, and the presence of ceramide 1 is crucial for the formation of the long-periodicity phase. This observation and the broad-narrow-broad sequence of lipid layers in the 13.4-nm phase led us to propose a molecular model for this phase. This consists of one narrow central lipid layer with fluid domains on both sides of a broad layer with a crystalline structure. This model is referred to as 'the sandwich model'. While the presence of free fatty acids does not substantially affect the lipid lamellar organization, it is crucial for the formation of the orthorhombic sublattice, since the addition of free fatty acids to cholesterol/ceramide mixtures results in transition from a hexagonal to a crystalline lipid phase. Studies examining lipid organization in SC derived from dry or lamellar X-linked ichthyosis skin revealed that in native tissue the role of ceramide 1 and free fatty acids is similar to that observed with mixtures prepared with isolated SC lipids. From this we conclude that the results obtained with lipid mixtures can be used to predict the SC lipid organization in native tissue.

Transdermal macromolecular delivery: real-time visualization of iontophoretic and chemically enhanced transport using two-photon excitation microscopy

PURPOSE

To investigate the transdermal delivery of a model macromolecule by passive and iontophoretic means following pretreatment with C12-penetration enhancers and to visualise transport across human stratum corneum (SC) in real time.

METHODS

Transport studies of dextran, labelled with fluorescent Cascade Blue (D-CB: M(R) = 3 kDa) across human stratum corneum, were conducted during passive and iontophoretic modes of delivery following pretreatment with either dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide (DTAB), sodium dodecyl sulphate (SDS) or Azone. Size-exclusion chromatography was used to assess maintenance of dextran structural integrity throughout experimental lifetime. Two-photon excitation microscopy was employed to visualise real-time dextran transport during current application.

RESULTS

The positively charged C12-enhancer DTAB elevated passive D-CB steady-state flux (J(ss)) and was the only enhancer to do so above control during iontophoresis. The negatively charged SDS had the least effect during both stages. On-line macromolecular transport was visualised, indicating both inter- and intra-cellular pathways across SC during current application. No transport was visible across untreated SC during passive transport.

CONCLUSIONS

Use of a positively charged enhancer may improve J(ss) of anionic macromolecular penetrants during passive and iontophoretic delivery. On-line visualisation of iontophoresis across SC was possible and can provide mechanistic insight into SC transport pathways.

Effect of divalent cations on lipid organization of cardiolipin isolated from Escherichia coli strain AH930

Escherichia coli strain AH930 is a lipid biosynthetic mutant, which is unable to synthesize phosphatidylethanolamine. Instead it produces large amounts of phosphatidylglycerol and cardiolipin and has an absolute requirement for certain divalent cations. Cardiolipin was isolated from this mutant strain and its interaction with divalent cations was studied by various biophysical techniques. Monolayer measurements showed that the cations decrease the molecular surface area of cardiolipin in the order Ca2+ approximately Mg2+ > Sr2+ > Ba2+. 31P-NMR and X-ray diffraction measurements demonstrated a comparable sequence for the ability of the cations to promote HII phase formation in dispersions of the E. coli cardiolipin: Ca2+ and Mg2+ induced HII phase formation at 50 degrees C, Sr2+ at 75 degrees C, while Ba2+ was found to be unable to promote HII phase formation in the temperature range measured. Furthermore, all divalent cations were found to increase the temperature at which the transition to the liquid-crystalline phase takes place, which was below 5 degrees C for the lipid in the absence of divalent cations. In the presence of Sr2+, Mg2+ and Ba2+ and at 25 degrees C two lamellar phases were observed, one corresponding to a liquid-crystalline phase, the other to either a gel or a crystalline phase. In the presence of Ca2+ at 25 degrees C and even at 45 degrees C no evidence for a liquid-crystalline phase was obtained and only a crystalline phase could be observed. The ability of the different cations to promote HII phase formation in the isolated E. coli cardiolipin was found to correlate with their ability to support growth of the mutant strain (De Chavigny, A., Heacock, P.N., Dowhan, W. (1991) J. Biol. Chem. 266, 5323-5332), suggesting that cardiolipin with divalent cations can replace the role of phosphatidylethanolamine in the mutant strain, and that this role involves the preference of these lipids for organization in non-bilayer lipid structures.

The influence of the molar ratio of cholesteryl hemisuccinate/dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine on 'liposome' formation after lipid film hydration

The morphology of the structures formed after hydration of lipid films of cholesteryl hemisuccinate/dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (CHEMS/DPPC) was investigated in low ionic strength solutions. The importance of addition of a charge inducing agent/geometrical structure such as CHEMS for the formation of stable vesicle dispersions upon hydration was demonstrated. The encapsulated volume measured for CHEMS/DPPC ratios below 1:50 was low. For a ratio of CHEMS/DPPC of 1:30 EM micrographs showed mainly small unilamellar vesicles, with particle sizes between 0.07 and 0.3 microns, together with a small number of much larger vesicles. For ratios of CHEMS/DPPC above 0.1 only unilamellar vesicles and no bilayer stacks were found. The results confirm the hypothesis by Hauser (Biochim. Biophys. Acta 772 (1984) 37-50), that the structures formed upon hydration of charged phospholipid films are unilamellar vesicles, while for neutral phospholipid films upon hydration bilayer stacks and multilamellar vesicles are formed. The effect of CHEMS on the liposome bilayer structure can be mainly ascribed to its charge inducing properties and presumably to a minor extent to its molecular geometry, or to a combination of both.