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Validation of a new in vitro Sun Protection Factor method to include a wide range of sunscreen product emulsion types. Int J Cosmet Sci 2020; 42:421-428. [PMID: 32390187 PMCID: PMC8246923 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12625] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/23/2020] [Accepted: 05/04/2020] [Indexed: 12/02/2022]
Abstract
In 2017, Cosmetics Europe performed a double‐blinded ring test of 24 emulsion‐type sunscreen products, across 3 in vivo test laboratories and 3 in vitro test laboratories, using a new candidate in vitro SPF test method. Based on the results of this work, an article was published showing how data derived from a new lead candidate method conform to new International Standards (ISO) acceptance criteria for alternative SPF test methods (Any alternative method should consider the matrix effect and if required, specify the matrix applicability of the method; Criterion 1a: Systematic differences between methods should be negligible: 95% of all individual results of an alternative method are within the range of ±2× reproducibility standard deviation of the in vivo method, that is overall bias must be below 0.5× reproducibility standard deviation of the in vivo method; Criterion 1b: Measurement uncertainty of an alternative method should be below the measurement uncertainty of the in vivo method. Candidate method predicted values must fall within the full ‘funnel’ (SPF 6‐50+) limits proposed by Cosmetics Europe (derived from the same minimum test design, that is using the ISO24444 Method to measure at least 24 products across at least 3 laboratories using at least 5 test subjects/laboratory, in a blinded fashion).). Of the 24 sunscreen products tested, the majority of emulsions were of the oil‐in‐water (O/W) type, whereas only one was water‐in‐oil (W/O) and there were no products with a mineral‐only sun filter system. In order to confirm the scope of this method, therefore, a new study was conducted that included 73 W/O (12 mineral + organic, 44 mineral only and 17 organic only) and 3 O/W mineral‐only, emulsion‐type sunscreen products (a total of 76 new sunscreen products). When combined with the previous 24 products (tested in 3 different laboratories), this yielded a new data set comprising a total of 100 emulsion‐type sunscreen products, with SPF values ranging from 6 to 50+ (with a total of 148 data points). These products were tested using the double‐plate in vitro SPF test method and compared with the ISO TC217/WG7 acceptance criteria for alternative SPF test methods. Over 95% of paired in vitro: in vivo SPF values lay within the upper and lower limits of the ISO acceptance criteria funnel, with no bias. This new in vitro SPF test method, therefore, meets the minimum requirements for an alternative SPF test method to ISO24444:2010, for emulsion‐type sunscreen products (which make up the majority of marketed sunscreen products).
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Personal views on the life, times and achievements of Professor Ronald Marks: a pioneering dermatologist, bioinstrumentalist and corneobiologist. Int J Cosmet Sci 2020; 42:111-115. [PMID: 32196688 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12615] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/27/2022]
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Anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant activity of ingredients of sunscreen products? Implications for SPF. Int J Cosmet Sci 2019; 41:320-324. [PMID: 31087383 PMCID: PMC6852040 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12540] [Citation(s) in RCA: 6] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/02/2019] [Accepted: 05/09/2019] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreen products is derived from testing in vivo their ability to prevent erythema ("sunburn"). Recently, certain articles have raised concerns that sunscreen products may actively suppress erythema via anti-inflammatory / anti-oxidant (AI/AO) activity. These articles reason that this may result in a higher labelled SPF value than that provided by the efficacy of the UVR filters alone, giving consumers a "false sense of security". On the other hand, since inflammatory processes are known to play a role in the mechanisms of photodamage / skin cancer induction and propagation, AI/AO activity may provide valuable incremental photoprotective benefit (provided that there is no interference with visible erythema). The objective of these studies, therefore, was to investigate the potential of AI/AO ingredients to suppress UVR-induced erythemal response in human skin, in vivo. METHODS In vivo studies with SPF30 sunscreen formulations containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients were performed according to the International Standard ISO24444:2010 method. While ISO24444:2010 requires assessment of erythema at 20 ± 4h post-irradiation, an additional assessment at 5 h post-irradiation was also used to determine potential delay in erythema development. RESULTS None of the formulations, containing a variety of AI/AO ingredients, influenced SPF determination in comparison to the vehicle formulation. CONCLUSION Our in vivo results demonstrate that commonly-used AI/AO ingredients, at concentrations typically used in sunscreen products, neither influence SPF value nor delay erythemal response, i.e., the measured SPF reflects the true photoprotective capacity of the product.
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Validation of an in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) method in blinded ring-testing. Int J Cosmet Sci 2018; 40:263-268. [PMID: 29676800 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12459] [Citation(s) in RCA: 11] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/01/2018] [Accepted: 04/10/2018] [Indexed: 02/28/2024]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE The objective of this work was to investigate the utility of a new in vitro SPF test method in blinded ring-testing, against new ISO acceptance criteria. METHODS Twenty four blinded, commercial, emulsion-type, primary sunscreen products, covering the full range of labelled SPF in Europe (SPF6 - 50+), were tested by three test institutes using the current ISO24444:2010 In Vivo SPF Test Method and simultaneously by three separate test laboratories using a new candidate in vitro SPF test method, developed under the leadership of Cosmetics Europe (CE). The resulting relationship between in vitro SPF and in vivo SPF values was then compared with acceptance criteria developed recently by the International Standards (ISO) TC217/WG7 Sun Protection Test Methods Working Group. RESULTS Analysis of the mean inter-laboratory in vitro and mean inter-institute in vivo SPF values revealed a strong correlation between in vitro and in vivo values, with a Pearson correlation coefficient of r2 = 0.88 (P < 0.0001), a slope of 1.01 and a non-significant intercept (-1.48; P = 0.62). When these data were compared to the new ISO WG7 acceptance criteria, method bias was found to be extremely low and over 95% of the coupled data lay within the model 'funnel' (defined by upper and lower confidence intervals). CONCLUSION In conclusion, the results of blinded ring testing and comparison to new ISO WG7 acceptance criteria indicate that a new in vitro SPF test method meets (and exceeds) these minimum criteria and is an interesting candidate for possible deployment as an industry test methodology.
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The effect of skin surface topography and skin colouration cues on perception of male facial age, health and attractiveness. Int J Cosmet Sci 2018; 40:193-198. [PMID: 29469966 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12451] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/14/2017] [Accepted: 02/18/2018] [Indexed: 12/22/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE Previous studies investigating the effects of skin surface topography and colouration cues on the perception of female faces reported a differential weighting for the perception of skin topography and colour evenness, where topography was a stronger visual cue for the perception of age, whereas skin colour evenness was a stronger visual cue for the perception of health. We extend these findings in a study of the effect of skin surface topography and colour evenness cues on the perceptions of facial age, health and attractiveness in males. METHODS Facial images of six men (aged 40 to 70 years), selected for co-expression of lines/wrinkles and discolouration, were manipulated digitally to create eight stimuli, namely, separate removal of these two features (a) on the forehead, (b) in the periorbital area, (c) on the cheeks and (d) across the entire face. Omnibus (within-face) pairwise combinations, including the original (unmodified) face, were presented to a total of 240 male and female judges, who selected the face they considered younger, healthier and more attractive. RESULTS Significant effects were detected for facial image choice, in response to skin feature manipulation. The combined removal of skin surface topography resulted in younger age perception compared with that seen with the removal of skin colouration cues, whereas the opposite pattern was found for health preference. No difference was detected for the perception of attractiveness. These perceptual effects were seen particularly on the forehead and cheeks. Removing skin topography cues (but not discolouration) in the periorbital area resulted in higher preferences for all three attributes. CONCLUSION Skin surface topography and colouration cues affect the perception of age, health and attractiveness in men's faces. The combined removal of these features on the forehead, cheeks and in the periorbital area results in the most positive assessments.
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Hexamidine salts - applications in skin health and personal care products. Int J Cosmet Sci 2017; 39:361-365. [DOI: 10.1111/ics.12392] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/10/2016] [Accepted: 01/23/2017] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
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Randomized, double-blinded, vehicle-controlled, split-face study to evaluate the effects of topical application of a Gold Silk Sericin/Niacinamide/Signaline complex on biophysical parameters related to skin ageing. Int J Cosmet Sci 2015; 37:606-12. [PMID: 25940759 DOI: 10.1111/ics.12237] [Citation(s) in RCA: 10] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/06/2015] [Accepted: 04/24/2015] [Indexed: 11/28/2022]
Abstract
OBJECTIVE To investigate the effects of topical application of a Gold Silk Sericin (GSS) complex on biophysical parameters related to skin ageing. METHODS A range of non-invasive bioengineering methods were deployed in an 8-week randomized, double-blinded, vehicle-controlled, split-face study among 40 female subjects aged 40-70. Endpoints measured included expert grades of skin condition, stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC barrier function, elasticity and surface topography. RESULTS The GSS complex produced significant single-variable (P < 0.05) improvements in SC hydration, barrier function, elasticity and surface topography compared with the Vehicle control. CONCLUSION The GSS complex examined in this study represents an interesting new cosmetic topical technology with which to address multiple aspects of aged/photoaged female facial skin.
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Influence of niacinamide containing formulations on the molecular and biophysical properties of the stratum corneum. Int J Pharm 2012; 441:192-201. [PMID: 23220080 DOI: 10.1016/j.ijpharm.2012.11.043] [Citation(s) in RCA: 33] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/27/2012] [Revised: 11/26/2012] [Accepted: 11/28/2012] [Indexed: 10/27/2022]
Abstract
Niacinamide-containing moisturisers are known be efficacious in alleviating dry skin conditions and improving stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. However, the mechanisms of action of niacinamide at the molecular level in the SC are still not well understood. Previously, we have reported the development of novel methods to probe SC barrier properties in vivo. The aim of the present study was to characterise changes in Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), corneocyte surface area and maturity, selected protease activities and SC thickness after repeated application of a simple vehicle containing niacinamide. A commercial formulation was also included as a reference. The left and right mid-volar forearms of 20 healthy volunteers were used as study sites, to which topical formulations were applied twice daily for 28 days. After successive tape-stripping, corneocyte maturity and surface area were assessed. In addition, activity of the desquamatory kallikrein (KLK) protease enzymes KLK5 and KLK7, and tryptase and plasmin (implicated in inflammatory process) were measured using a fluorogenic probe assay. The amount of protein removed and TEWL were also recorded. SC thickness before and after treatment was determined using Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS). Overall (i) corneocyte maturity and surface area decreased with increasing number of tape strips, (ii) activity of both the desquamatory and inflammatory enzymes was highest in the outer layers of the SC and decreased with depth (iii) TEWL increased as more SC layers were removed. Furthermore, areas treated with formulations containing niacinamide were significantly different to pre-treatment baseline and untreated/vehicle-control treated sites, with larger and more mature corneocytes, decreased inflammatory activity, decreased TEWL and increased SC thickness. These data (a) confirm the utility of measures and metrics developed previously for the non-invasive assay of SC barrier function, (b) present an holistic picture of a SC compartment managing barrier function through dynamic optimisation of pathlength and quality of building materials used, and (c) shed new light on niacinamide as a topical formulation adjunct with unique SC barrier-augmentation properties.
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Visible skin colouration predicts perception of male facial age, health and attractiveness. Int J Cosmet Sci 2012; 34:307-10. [PMID: 22515406 DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00724.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 41] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/08/2023]
Abstract
Although there is evidence that perception of facial age, health and attractiveness is informed by shape characteristics as well as by visible skin condition, studies on the latter have focused almost exclusively on female skin. Recent research, however, suggests that a decrease in skin colour homogeneity leads to older, less healthy and less attractive ratings of facial skin in both women and men. Here, we elaborate on the significance of the homogeneity of visible skin colouration in men by testing the hypothesis that perception of age, health and attractiveness of (non-contextual) digitally isolated fields of cheek skin only can predict that of whole facial images. Facial digital images of 160 British men (all Caucasian) aged between 10 and 70 were blind-rated for age, health and attractiveness by a total of 147 men and 154 women (mean age = 22.95, SD = 4.26), and these ratings were related to those of corresponding images of cheek skin reported by Fink et al. (J. Eur. Acad. Dermatol. Venereol. in press). Linear regression analysis showed that age, health and attractiveness perception of men's faces could be predicted by the ratings of cheek skin only, such that older men were viewed as older, less healthy and less attractive. This result underlines once again the potent signalling role of skin in its own right, independent of shape or other factors and suggests strongly that visible skin condition, and skin colour homogeneity in particular, plays a significant role in the perception of men's faces.
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Influence of Aqueous Cream BP on corneocyte size, maturity, skin protease activity, protein content and transepidermal water loss. Br J Dermatol 2012; 164:1304-10. [PMID: 21443526 DOI: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10338.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 46] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/26/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Aqueous Cream BP is frequently prescribed for patients with eczema and is known to induce sensitivity in certain patients and also to decrease the thickness of the stratum corneum (SC). We have previously reported methodology to quantify corneocyte maturity and size, protease activity and protein content within different levels of the SC. OBJECTIVES The aim of the present study was to investigate changes in corneocyte size, corneocyte maturity, selected protease activities, protein content and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in normal skin after a 28-day application of Aqueous Cream BP. METHODS The left and right mid volar forearms of six healthy female volunteers were selected as the study sites. Aqueous Cream BP was applied twice daily to treated sites for 28 days. At the end of this period, the site was tape-stripped and corneocyte maturity, corneocyte size and protease activity of the desquamatory kallikrein proteases, KLK5 and KLK7, and the inflammatory proteases tryptase and plasmin were measured. Protein content and TEWL measurements were also recorded. RESULTS Corneocyte maturity and size decreased with increasing number of tape strips, and were significantly lower in treated sites compared with untreated sites. Protease activity and TEWL values were higher (P < 0·05) for the treated sites compared with untreated sites. The amount of protein removed from deeper layers of treated sites was significantly lower than from untreated sites. CONCLUSIONS We report rapid minimally invasive measures of the effects of Aqueous Cream BP at the cellular and molecular level of the skin. Treatment with this formulation is associated with increased desquamatory and inflammatory protease activity. Changes in corneocyte maturity and size are also indicative of accelerated skin turnover induced by chronic application of this emollient. These findings question firmly the routine prescription of this preparation as a moisturizer in patients with atopic dermatitis.
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Colour homogeneity and visual perception of age, health and attractiveness of male facial skin. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2011; 26:1486-92. [PMID: 22044626 DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2011.04316.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 24] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 12/16/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Visible facial skin condition in females is known to affect perception of age, health and attractiveness. Skin colour distribution in shape- and topography-standardized female faces, driven by localized melanin and haemoglobin, can account for up to twenty years of apparent age perception. Although this is corroborated by an ability to discern female age even in isolated, non-contextual skin images, a similar effect in the perception of male skin is yet to be demonstrated. OBJECTIVES To investigate the effect of skin colour homogeneity and chromophore distribution on the visual perception of age, health and attractiveness of male facial skin. METHODS Cropped images from the cheeks of facial images of 160 Caucasian British men aged 10-70 years were blind-rated for age, health and attractiveness by a total of 308 participants. In addition, the homogeneity of skin images and corresponding eumelanin/oxyhaemoglobin concentration maps were analysed objectively using Haralick's image segmentation algorithm. RESULTS Isolated skin images taken from the cheeks of younger males were judged as healthier and more attractive. Perception of age, health and attractiveness was strongly related to melanin and haemoglobin distribution, whereby more even distributions led to perception of younger age and greater health and attractiveness. The evenness of melanized features was a stronger cue for age perception, whereas haemoglobin distribution was associated more strongly with health and attractiveness perception. CONCLUSIONS Male skin colour homogeneity, driven by melanin and haemoglobin distribution, influences perception of age, health and attractiveness.
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Differences in visual perception of age and attractiveness of female facial and body skin. Int J Cosmet Sci 2010; 33:126-31. [DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00594.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
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The COLIPAin vitroUVA method: a standard and reproducible measure of sunscreen UVA protection. Int J Cosmet Sci 2010; 32:35-46. [DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00542.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 45] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.2] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/30/2022]
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Abstract
Evolutionary psychology suggests that certain human beauty standards have evolved to provide reliable cues of fertility and health. Hence, preferences for some physical characteristics of the face and body are thought to reflect adaptations for the promotion of mate choice. Studies that have investigated facial attractiveness have concentrated mainly on features such as symmetry, averageness and sex-typical traits, which are developed under the influence of sex steroids. Few studies, however, have addressed the effect of human skin condition on perception of facial appearance in this context, and possible implications for sexual selection. There is now accumulating evidence that skin pigmentation and skin surface topography cues, particularly in women, have a significant influence on attractiveness judgements, as they seem primarily to signal aspects of age and health. This article (i) reviews briefly some of the main determinants of visible skin condition, (ii) presents recent evidence on its signalling value in face perception and (iii) suggests areas for future research with reference to an evolutionary psychology framework.
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Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizers with a combination of topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial. Br J Dermatol 2009; 162:435-41. [PMID: 19845667 DOI: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2009.09477.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 49] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) each individually inhibit epidermal pigmentation in cell culture. In small clinical studies, niacinamide-containing and NAG-containing formulations reduced the appearance of hyperpigmentation. OBJECTIVES To assess the effect of a combination of niacinamide and NAG in a topical moisturizing formulation on irregular facial pigmentation, including specific detection of changes in colour features associated with melanin. METHODS This was a 10-week, double-blind, vehicle-controlled, full-face, parallel-group clinical study conducted in women aged 40-60 years. After a 2-week washout period, subjects used a daily regimen of either a morning sun protection factor (SPF) 15 sunscreen moisturizing lotion and evening moisturizing cream each containing 4% niacinamide + 2% NAG (test formulation; n = 101) or the SPF 15 lotion and cream vehicles (vehicle control; n = 101). Product-induced changes in apparent pigmentation were assessed by capturing digital photographic images of the women after 0, 4, 6 and 8 weeks of product use and evaluating the images by algorithm-based computer image analysis for coloured spot area fraction, by expert visual grading, and by chromophore-specific image analysis based on noncontact SIAscopy for melanin spot area fraction and melanin chromophore evenness. RESULTS By all four measures, the niacinamide + NAG formulation regimen was significantly (P < 0.05) more effective than the vehicle control formulation regimen in reducing the detectable area of facial spots and the appearance of pigmentation. CONCLUSIONS A formulation containing the combination of niacinamide + NAG reduced the appearance of irregular pigmentation including hypermelaninization, providing an effect beyond that achieved with SPF 15 sunscreen.
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Measuring the effects of topical moisturizers on changes in stratum corneum thickness, water gradients and hydration in vivo. Br J Dermatol 2008; 159:567-77. [PMID: 18616783 DOI: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2008.08703.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 66] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Moisturizers are the most commonly used topically applied product for the treatment of dry skin conditions. They affect many properties and functions of the stratum corneum but some moisturizers have been reported to be detrimental to barrier function. Stratum corneum barrier function is a composite of its total structure and thickness but few studies have taken this into account. As a biosensor, the stratum corneum (SC) will change its structure in response to treatment and a swelling effect has been clearly demonstrated by skin hydration. Recently several moisturizing agents have been shown to have an effect on SC swelling behaviour with conflicting results. However, there is a paucity of data reported for measuring the effects of long-term usage of moisturizers on SC thickness in vivo as, until recently, traditional techniques did not have the resolution to measure the effects of moisturizers on nonpalmoplantar body sites. The development of confocal Raman spectroscopy for use in human subjects provides noninvasive, real-time, in vivo measurement of SC water concentration profiles and we have also used this state of the art equipment to measure the effect of the long-term use of moisturizers on SC thickness for the first time. OBJECTIVES To validate the use of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) to measure SC thickness and then use it to investigate the short- and long-term effects of moisturizers (one of which is known to improve SC barrier function) on SC thickness, water gradients and hydration. METHODS Two studies were conducted: (i) to validate the use of CRS for measuring SC thickness through comparison with optical coherence tomography (OCT); and (ii) once validated to use CRS to measure the long-term effects of three commercially available moisturizers (A, B, C) on SC thickness and water gradients, together with total hydration, over a 3-week period (2 weeks of treatment and 1 week regression) and compare the spectroscopy-derived hydration value with instrumentally derived capacitance hydration values. RESULTS (i) A strong, positive correlation in SC thickness was obtained between CRS and OCT (OCT-derived thickness = 0.96 x CRS-derived thickness, r(2) = 0.93; P <0.0001). OCT was shown, however, to have a lower resolution than CRS in distinguishing SC thickness on thinner nonpalmoplantar body sites. Using the CRS method, differences in SC thickness were readily apparent on different body sites (cheek 12.8 +/- 0.9 microm, volar forearm 18.0 +/- 3.9 microm, leg 22.0 +/- 6.9 microm). (ii) Examining the effects of moisturizers in a blinded, randomized 3-week study in human volunteers (n = 14) demonstrated that only one commercially available formulation (A) changed SC water gradients, thickness and hydration as measured by CRS. These hydration data did not directly correlate with capacitance hydration values. CONCLUSIONS (i) In vivo CRS was validated as a technique to measure SC thickness on both palmoplantar and, particularly, on nonpalmoplantar skin sites. (ii) Moisturizers improve skin moisturization but in this study only formulation A improved SC thickness, water gradients and hydration as measured by CRS. We hypothesize that this was due to compositional differences between the products. We believe that niacinamide (nicotinamide, vitamin B(3)) is probably contributing significantly to this effect, as it has been proven to increase epidermal lipogenesis and SC barrier function in other studies. These results show that by using CRS, we were able for the first time to determine the effect of moisturizer on multiple SC barrier endpoints including SC thickness, and water content as a function of depth and total SC water content.
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The effects of skin colour distribution and topography cues on the perception of female facial age and health. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2007; 22:493-8. [PMID: 18081752 DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-3083.2007.02512.x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 76] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
According to evolutionary psychology, the preference for some facial characteristics reflects adaptations for mate choice because they signal aspects of mate quality. Although morphological features such as facial symmetry and sexually dimorphic traits have been studied extensively in recent years, little is known about skin condition in this context. The preferences for young and healthy looking skin could offer an explanation as to why women place such an importance on the condition of their skin and its refinement through e.g., cosmetic products. Recent research showed that facial skin colour distribution significantly influences the perception of age and attractiveness of female faces, independent of skin surface topography cues. However, the relative effect of skin colour distribution and topography cues on age and health perception remains to be investigated. We present data showing that both skin colour distribution and skin surface topography cues not only significantly influence the perception of female facial age and health but also convey differential information with regard to the strength of these effects. Our data indicate that skin surface topography cues account for a large proportion of variation in facial age perception, whereas skin colour distribution seems to be a stronger health cue.
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Abstract
BACKGROUND There continues to be a need for objective, noninvasive methods to measure melanin concentration in vivo in human skin, independent of the confounding chromophore, haemoglobin. Existing methods are limited by a lack of specificity and inability to resolve the spatial distribution of these chromophores. OBJECTIVES To validate and calibrate the measurement of eumelanin in vivo using SIAscopic techniques, relating this with histologically and analytically determined eumelanin concentrations in nonsun-exposed skin from subjects of Fitzpatrick skin types I-VI. METHODS Observations were made in five subjects from each of the Fitzpatrick skin types I-VI using chromophore mapping by contact and noncontact SIAscopy and other noninvasive spectrophotometric means. Measurements were performed on the inner aspect of both upper arms. Subsequently two 4 mm punch biopsies were taken from the inner upper arm, one per arm after injection of local anaesthesia. One biopsy was fixed in formalin and processed for histology; specifically, sections were stained for melanin using a silver staining technique and the amount of melanin was graded microscopically. The other biopsy was subjected to an analytical assay to yield precise quantitative measures of melanin. The correlation between the different methods of melanin measurement was determined. RESULTS Clear, significant correlations were obtained between contact and noncontact SIAscope-derived eumelanin values and actual eumelanin tissue content (determined both histologically and analytically), across the full range of Fitzpatrick skin types. There was no correlation between SIAscope-derived eumelanin and haemoglobin values, indicating efficient separation of the two chromophores. CONCLUSIONS New contact and noncontact chromophore SIAscopic mapping techniques provide robust, rapid noninvasive measures of the concentration and spatial distribution of eumelanin in vivo, independent of haemoglobin, which correspond to true tissue values for this chromophore.
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Abstract
BACKGROUND There are considerable data to suggest that protection from solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation will reduce the risk of acute and chronic skin damage in humans. Whereas the sun protection factor (SPF) provides an index of protection against erythemally effective solar UV, largely confined to the UVB (290-320 nm) and short-wavelength UVA (320-340 nm) region, there is currently no agreed-upon method to measure broad-spectrum protection against long-wavelength UVA (340-400 nm). OBJECTIVE The objective of these studies was to assess the potential of in vitro UV substrate spectrophotometry and subsequent calculation of the "critical wavelength" value as a measure of broad-spectrum UV protection and as a routine, practical procedure for classification of sunscreen products. METHODS The spectral absorption of 59 commercially available sunscreen products and multiple experimental formulas with one or more UV filters was measured. Sunscreen product, 1 mg/cm(2), was applied to a hydrated synthetic collagen substrate, preirradiated with a solar simulator, and then subjected to UV substrate spectrophotometry. Multiple determinations from 5 independent samples per product were used to calculate the critical wavelength value, defined as the wavelength at which the integral of the spectral absorbance curve reached 90% of the integral from 290 to 400 nm. RESULTS We found that a recognized long-wave UVA active ingredient such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or avobenzone is a necessary but insufficient product requirement for achieving the highest proposed broad-spectrum classification, that is, critical wavelength of 370 nm or more. Although SPF and critical wavelength are largely independent of each other, UVA absorbance must increase commensurate with SPF to maintain the same critical wavelength value. Substrate spectrophotometry and the calculation of critical wavelength can readily account for sunscreen photostability by UV preirradiation. Finally, there is also a strong positive relationship between critical wavelength and a currently available in vivo measure of UVA protection. CONCLUSION Determination of critical wavelength by means of UV substrate spectrophotometry provides a rapid, inexpensive, and reliable measure of broad-spectrum protection, which is largely independent of SPF, yet ensures long-wavelength UVA protection commensurate with SPF. The procedure provides a routine, sensitive means of differentiating and classifying sunscreen products and, importantly, obviates the need to subject volunteers to acute exposures of high-dose, nonterrestrial UV, the health risks of which are still poorly understood.
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Purification and characterization of the short-chain alkylsulphatase of coryneform B1a. Biochem J 1994; 304 ( Pt 3):937-43. [PMID: 7818500 PMCID: PMC1137423 DOI: 10.1042/bj3040937] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [Abstract] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/27/2023]
Abstract
Using a combination of streptomycin sulphate precipitation, and DEAE-cellulose and butyl-agarose chromatography, an alkylsulphatase active towards short-chain alkyl sulphates has been purified approx. 70-fold from extracts of coryneform B1a grown on butyl-1-sulphate. The enzyme protein is dimeric with a subunit molecular mass of 77.6 kDa, has an isoelectric point of pI 7.2, and converts butyl-1-sulphate stoichiometrically into butan-1-ol and inorganic sulphate. Stoichiometric incorporation of 18O from H2(18)O into sulphate during the reaction showed that enzymic hydrolysis occurred at the O-S bond of the C-O-S ester linkage. The enzyme was active on C3-C7 linear primary alkyl sulphates but not on higher (C8,9) or lower (C1,2) homologues, although the latter pair were competitive inhibitors. The specificity constant (kcat./Km) was highest for pentyl sulphate (Km 1.89 +/- 0.38 mM; kcat. 6.86 +/- 0.52 s-1) and decreased for higher and lower homologues. No activity was detected towards C3-C9 racemic alkyl-2-sulphates, D- or L-enantiomers of butyl-2-sulphate, the symmetrical secondary alkyl sulphates pentyl-3-sulphate, heptyl-4-sulphate, nonyl-5-sulphate, C1-C8 alkane sulphonates, choline sulphate, or butyric acid-4-sulphate; none of these compounds (except the symmetrical esters and butyric acid-4-sulphate, which were not tested) was demonstrably inhibitory. The enzyme was compared with other alkylsulphatases in terms of substrate specificity and mode of action.
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