Chemical and Skincare Property Characterization of the Main Cocoa Byproducts: Extraction Optimization by RSM Approach for Development of Sustainable Ingredients

Methylxanthines and polyphenols from cocoa byproducts should be considered for their application in the development of functional ingredients for food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Different cocoa byproducts were analyzed for their chemical contents, and skincare properties were measured by antioxidant assays and anti-skin aging activity. Musty cocoa beans (MC) and second-quality cocoa beans (SQ) extracts showed the highest polyphenol contents and antioxidant capacities. In the collagenase and elastase inhibition study, the highest effect was observed for the SQ extract with 86 inhibition and 36% inhibition, respectively. Among cocoa byproducts, the contents of catechin and epicatechin were higher in the SQ extract, with 18.15 mg/100 g of sample and 229.8 mg/100 g of sample, respectively. Cocoa bean shells (BS) constitute the main byproduct due to their methylxanthine content (1085 mg of theobromine and 267 mg of caffeine/100 g of sample). Using BS, various influencing factors in the extraction process were investigated by response surface methodology (RSM), before scaling up separations. The extraction process developed under optimized conditions allows us to obtain almost 2 g/min and 0.2 g/min of total methylxanthines and epicatechin, respectively. In this way, this work contributes to the sustainability and valorization of the cocoa production chain.

Epilobium angustifolium L. Extracts as Valuable Ingredients in Cosmetic and Dermatological Products

Epilobium angustifolium L. is a popular and well-known medicinal plant. In this study, an attempt to evaluate the possibility of using this plant in preparations for the care and treatment of skin diseases was made. The antioxidant, antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties of ethanolic extracts from Epilobium angustifolium (FEE) were assessed. Qualitative and quantitative evaluation of extracts chemically composition was performed by gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The total polyphenol content (TPC) of biologically active compounds, such as the total content of polyphenols (TPC), flavonoids (TFC), and assimilation pigments, as well as selected phenolic acids, was assessed. FEE was evaluated for their anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties, achieving 68% inhibition of lipoxygenase activity, 60% of collagenase and 49% of elastase. FEE also showed high antioxidant activity, reaching to 87% of free radical scavenging using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 59% using 2,2'-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS). Additionally, in vitro penetration studies were performed using two vehicles, i.e., a hydrogel and an emulsion containing FEE. These studies showed that the active ingredients contained in FEE penetrate through human skin and accumulate in it. The obtained results indicate that E. angustifolium may be an interesting plant material to be applied as a component of cosmetic and dermatological preparations with antiaging and anti-inflammatory properties.

Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a review

Resveratrol is now being increasingly used in cosmetology and dermatology. This polyphenolic phytoalexin present in large amounts in red grapes and berries has a number of scientifically proven health-promoting properties associated with a positive effect on the cardiovascular system, lowering the concentration of low-density lipoprotein, and the ability to inhibit the cyclooxygenases activity. Additionally, it has antiproliferative, anti-angiogenic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties. Its popularity in cosmetology and dermatology is primarily associated with proven ability to penetrate the skin barrier and antiaging activity. It has been shown that formulations with resveratrol can stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and contributing to the increase in the concentration of collagen III. Resveratrol has an affinity for the estrogen protein receptors (both ERα and ERβ), thereby contributing to the stimulation of collagen types I and II production. Moreover, resveratrol also has the antioxidant properties, thus can protect cells against oxidative damage associated with the effects of free radicals and UV radiation on the skin by reducing the expression of AP-1 and NF-kB factors and it slows down the process of photoaging of the skin. This study reviews literature on the skin care properties of resveratrol and its dermal bioavailability, metabolism, and dermal safety of application.