Distribution of Domains Formed by Lateral Packing of Intercellular Lipid in the Stratum Corneum

Intercellular lipids fill the interstices of corneocytes and serve a barrier function. The amount of transdermal water evaporation varies depending on the packing structure of intercellular lipids, as this structure is important for maintaining barrier efficacy. This packing structure consists of a mixture of crystals (orthorhombic and hexagonal) and liquid crystals (fluid phase), and the proportion of these phases is thought to affect barrier function. However, there have been no methods to visualize the actual distribution of the domains formed by packing structure in intercellular lipids. In this study, the planar distribution of intercellular lipid structures was determined using focal plane array (FPA)-based Fourier transform (FT) IR imaging analysis of stratum corneum cell units obtained by grid stripping. The lipid composition of ceramides was revealed by electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (ESI-MS/MS)-based shotgun lipidomics. The distribution of domains formed by packing structures and the lipid composition of ceramides was compared in skin with high- or low-transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The orthorhombic proportion was lower in high-TEWL skin than in low-TEWL skin. ESI-MS/MS-based shotgun lipidomics analysis showed that the alpha-hydroxyceramide content in the low- and high-TEWL groups differed regarding the distribution of fatty acid chain lengths. The evaluation of stratum corneum cell units using FPA-based FTIR imaging is an innovative technology that can visualize the distribution of domains formed by intercellular lipid-packing structures. Increased proportions of alpha-hydroxyceramide subclasses such as alpha-hydroxy-sphingosine ceramide and alpha-hydroxy-phytosphingosine ceramide were associated with a reduced proportion of the orthorhombic packing structure domain.

Amino Acids and Their N-Acetylated Derivatives Maintain the Skin's Barrier Function

The hydrocarbon-chain packing structure of intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC) is critical to the skin's barrier function. We previously found that formation of V-shaped ceramide reduces the barrier function of skin. There are few agents, apart from ceramides and fatty acids that can improve the orthorhombic packing (Orth) ratio of the intercellular lipid packing structure. In this study, we investigated agents that directly increase the Orth ratio. We selected an intercellular lipid model consisting of ceramide, cholesterol, and palmitic acid and performed differential scanning calorimetry. We focused on natural moisturizing factor components in the SC, and therefore investigated amino acids and their derivatives. The results of our intercellular lipid model-based study indicate that N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline (AHYP), remarkably, maintains the lamellar structure. We verified the effect of AHYP on the lamellar structure and hydrocarbon chain packing structure of intercellular lipids using time-resolved X-ray diffraction measurements of human SC. We also determined the direct physicochemical effects of AHYP on the Orth ratio of the hydrocarbon-chain packing structure. Hence, the results of our human SC study suggest that AHYP preserves skin barrier function by maintaining the hydrocarbon-chain packing structure of intercellular lipids via electrostatic repulsion. These findings will facilitate the development of skincare formulation that can maintain the skin's barrier function.

Phase Separation in Lipid Lamellae Result from Ceramide Conformations and Lateral Packing Structure

Intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum protect the living body from invasion by allergens and pathogens, and also suppresses water evaporation within the body. It is important to understand how differences in the microstructure of intercellular lipids arise. This microstructure is affected by lipid composition. Studies using intercellular lipid models have reported the formation of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities. However, the details of the packing structure characteristics of the two phases observed in these intercellular lipid models are unclear. Our previous report revealed that different short periodicity phases coexist in the N-(α-hydroxyoctadecanoyl)-dihydrosphingosine (CER[ADS]), cholesterol (CHOL), and palmitic acid (PA) complex model. In this study, the characteristics of the packing structure of two phases with different short lamellar periodicities, which were observed in the intercellular lipid model (CER[ADS]/CHOL/PA) that we used previously, were adjusted for models with different lipid compositions. The characteristics of the packed and lamellar structures have been determined by temperature-scanning small-angle X-ray scattering and wide-angle X-ray diffraction measurements simultaneously. These differences in lamellar structure were thought to be caused by differences in ceramides (CER) conformation between the hairpin and the V-shape type. The lamellar structure of the V-shaped CER conformation has a low orthorhombic ratio. The above results suggest that an increase in the ratio of CER with the V-shaped structure causes the lamellar structure to have low orthorhombic ratio, thereby contributing to a decrease in the bilayer's barrier function.

Moisturizing mechanism of glycerol and diglycerol on human stratum corneum studied by synchrotron X-ray diffraction

OBJECTIVE

Polyols are moisturizers used in cosmetics. Using X-ray diffraction, we studied the moisturizingmechanism of polyol solutions in the stratum corneum (SC). We examined whether glycerol disrupts the ordered hydrocarbon chain packing structure in isolated SC, as previously proposed in an SC lipid model.

METHODS

The SC samples were prepared by treatment with water and aqueous solutions of glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol. To examine the differences in the water-retention efficiency of polyols, using a solution cell, we performed dynamic X-ray diffraction to analyse the structural changes that occurred during water removal from the hydrated samples by a stream of dry nitrogen gas. We focused on two structures, the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure in the intercellular lipids and the soft keratin in the corneocytes where most of the water is stored.

RESULTS

The spacing formed by the soft keratin in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of water and diglycerol solution decreased rapidly by water removal. In contrast, it decreased gradually in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of glycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, indicating that the glycerol-containing solutions maintained the hydrated state of the corneocytes for longer. Furthermore, the characteristic change of the spacing in the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure over time was observed during the drying process. The hydrated state was maintained longer, in water, followed by glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, in increasing order. This is the first study to report such characteristic properties that could be indicators of the capacity of the SC to regulate water.

CONCLUSION

The dynamic X-ray diffraction experiment on the structure of the soft keratin and the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure during the drying of the hydrated SC provides an insight into the moisturizing mechanism of the polyol solutions in the SC. The results show that the glycerol/diglycerol solution functions as an effective SC moisturizer at the molecular level. Further, it was confirmed that the behaviour of glycerol in the isolated SC varies from that proposed in the SC lipid model, wherein glycerol was proposed to prevent the formation of a regular hydrocarbon chain packing structure.

Simultaneous Measurements of Structure and Water Permeability in an Isolated Human Skin Stratum Corneum Sheet

Stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of human skin, acts as an intelligent physicochemical interface between the inside and the outside of our body. To make clear the relationship between structure and physical barrier properties of SC, we developed a method that enables us to simultaneously acquire X-ray diffraction (XD) patterns and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values using a spread SC sheet isolated from human skin. The synchrotron X-ray was incident on the SC sheet surface at an angle of 45° to avoid interference between the two kinds of measurements. Detailed comparison between XD and TEWL data suggested that the thermal behavior of water permeability is closely related to the thermal expansion of the lattice spacings of the hexagonal phases above 40 °C and to the existence ratio of the orthorhombic phase below 40 °C. Thus, the new method we developed can give useful information on the mechanism of water permeation in SC without ambiguity caused by separate measurements of structure and water permeability with different samples.

A Possible Percutaneous Penetration Pathway That Should Be Considered

The intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum form structures composed of ordered phases with orthorhombic and hexagonal hydrocarbon-chain packing structures and, in addition, a structure composed of a disordered fluid phase. Although the fluid phase plays an important role in percutaneous penetration, little attention has been paid to it in the literature thus far. Recently, a method to estimate the proportion of the fluid phase within the lipids of the stratum corneum was proposed and it was shown to reach about 80%. However, since that study assumed uniform extraction of the intercellular lipids from the stratum corneum, the analysis might give rise to an overestimation of the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase. We developed a way to investigate the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase by treating with ethanol, into which the lipids in the fluid phase might be dominantly dissolved. From the experiment we pointed out the possibility that the proportion of the lipids in the fluid phase reached more than 50% of the whole intercellular lipids. Therefore, the fluid-phase region in the intercellular lipid matrix should be taken into account when considering the percutaneous penetration mechanism.