Investigation of the molecular signature of greying hair shafts

OBJECTIVE

Hair greying (i.e. canitie) is a physiological process occurring with the loss of melanin production and deposition within the hair shafts. Many studies reported the oxidation as the main biological process underlying this defect of pigmentation. Even though the overall appearance and biomechanical properties of hairs are reported to be altered with greying, there is a lack of information about molecular modifications occurring in grey hair shafts. The aim of this study was thus to investigate the molecular signature and associated changes occurring in greying hair shafts by confocal Raman microspectroscopy.

METHODS

This study was conducted on pigmented, intermediate (i.e. grey) and unpigmented hairs taken from 29 volunteers. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy measurements were acquired directly on hair shafts.

RESULTS

Automatic classification of Raman spectra revealed 5 groups displaying significant differences. Hence, the analysis of the molecular signature highlighted the existence of 3 sub-groups within grey hair: light, medium and dark intermediate. Among molecular markers altered in the course of greying, this study identified for the first time a gradual modification of lipid conformation (trans/gauche ratio) and protein secondary structure (α-helix/β-sheet ratio), referring respectively to an alteration of barrier function and biomechanical properties of greying hair.

CONCLUSION

This study thus reports for the first time a highly specific molecular signature as well as molecular modifications within grey hair shaft.

Preferential arrangement of lipids in the long-periodicity phase of a stratum corneum matrix model

The lipid matrix of the stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer, consists primarily of ceramides, cholesterol, and FFAs. These lipids form a trilayer long-periodicity phase (LPP) that is unique to this barrier. Knowledge about the LPP is essential in understanding the barrier function. Previous studies of LPP lipid models have identified the position of the major lipid classes and suggested that a large fraction of FFAs and the ceramide acyl chain are present in the central region. However, the precise arrangement, such as lipid subclass mixing (isolated or mixed) and ceramide conformation (extended or hairpin), remains unknown. Here, we deuterated FFAs and the ceramide acyl chain to study CD₂ and CH₂ interactions with Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy. The ceramide and FFAs of various chain lengths were not in separate domains but had mixed together. The larger number of CD₂-CD₂ lipid chain interactions in the LPP than in a symmetrical bilayer structure implied that the ceramide had primarily adopted an extended conformation. Shorter FFAs were present in the central region of the LPP. This model explores the biophysical properties of the stratum corneum's LPP to improve the understanding of the barrier function of this layer.