A new wrinkle on old skin: the role of elastic fibres in skin ageing

A blackberry-dill extract combination synergistically increases skin elasticity

BACKGROUND

The loss of structural elastin due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing results in the skin's inability to stretch and recoil (decrease in elasticity) and manifests as loss of skin firmness and sagging. While other extracellular matrix (ECM) components such as collagen and hyaluronic acid are continually synthesized and assembled through life, elastic fibres are not. Elastic fibre assembly and functionality require fibre cross-linking, induced by the lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) enzymes, which sharply decrease during ageing.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the enhanced elastogenic effect of a blackberry-dill extract combination, which was hypothesized to induce elastin fibre component synthesis, fibre cross-linking and reduce elastin fibre degradation.

METHODS

The blackberry and the dill extracts were tested separately and in combination to confirm single ingredient bioactivity and synergistic benefits. Human skin explants, dermal fibroblasts, elastase assays, ELISAs, quantitative real-time PCRs and spectrofluorometer measurements were used. Moreover, a double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out to assess skin elasticity using Cutometer and histologically from biopsies.

RESULTS

The blackberry extract induced elastin gene expression, elastin promoter activity and inhibited elastic fibre degradation by matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) 9 and 12. The dill extract induced elastin, collagen and LOXL1 gene expression, resulting in enhanced fibre cross-linking in human skin explants. Clinically, the blackberry and dill combination treatment displayed synergistic pro-elasticity activity as compared to each ingredient alone and placebo.

CONCLUSION

Taken together, these results demonstrated the two multimodal plant-based extracts complemented each other in terms of bioactivity and resulted in a synergistic elastogenesis induction.

Improvements in Skin Quality Biological Markers in Skin Explants Using Hyaluronic Acid Filler VYC-12L

Hyaluronic acid (HA), both crosslinked and uncrosslinked, is used clinically to treat fine lines and provides additional improvements in skin quality attributes. The purpose of this study was to assess potential early differences in the expression of biological markers of skin quality in living human skin explants injected with uncrosslinked and crosslinked HA gels.

Methods

Living human skin explants injected with VYC-12L or noncrosslinked HA with mannitol (HYD) and noninjected controls were assessed via microscopy, histology, and immunohistochemistry on days 3 and/or 8 for biological markers of elasticity (collagen density, elastin, fibrillin-1) and hydration [aquaporin-3, acidic glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), HA]. Hydration was also assessed via a corneometer probe on days 0, 1, 2, and 8.

Results

On day 3 versus controls, VYC-12L moderately increased collagen density in the upper reticular dermis and clearly increased fibrillin-1 expression, with slight increases persisting on day 8. Increases with HYD were smaller and did not persist on day 8. Both VYC-12L and HYD increased aquaporin-3 expression and GAG content on days 3 and 8, but VYC-12L produced greater GAG increases in the reticular dermis. Day 8 instrument-assessed hydration increased by 49% and 22% for VYC-12L and HYD, respectively. Elastin expression in oxytalan and elaunin fibers was unchanged. Upper-dermal HA reductions suggested HA injection-induced hyaluronidase expression.

Conclusion

VYC-12L produced greater, more lasting improvements in biological markers of skin quality than HYD.

Antiaging Activity of Peptide Identified from Fermented Trapa Japonica Fruit Extract in Human Dermal Fibroblasts

We have previously shown that Trapa japonica fruit extract (TJE) as well as its fermented extract (FTJ) can be potentially used to treat alopecia. In the current study, a newly synthesized peptide (PEP) was detected in an active compound isolated from FTJ. Several biological assays were conducted to verify the antiaging effects of TJE, FTJ, and PEP on the skin. We examined the effects of TJE, FTJ, and PEP on cell viability, collagen synthesis, and inhibition of mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), induced by tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α), in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). In addition, a wound-healing assay of the human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and a clinical study of antiaging activity were conducted. The findings confirmed that PEP exerted an effect on cell proliferation in a dose-dependent manner. Treatment with TJE, FTJ, and PEP increased collagen synthesis but inhibited TNF-α-induced mRNA expression of MMPs. Compared with TJE and FTJ, PEP promoted a significant level of wound recovery in HaCaT cells and also exhibited antiaging effect, as demonstrated by a clinical study. These results suggest that PEP shows potential as a skin antiaging cosmetic product.

Beauty from within: Oral administration of a sulfur-containing supplement methylsulfonylmethane improves signs of skin ageing

Abstract. Background: Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is an organosulfur compound with known benefits for joint health, sports nutrition, immune function, and anti‐aging formulations and is gaining popularity as a nutritional supplement for the support of hair, skin and nails. Methods: The study was conducted in two steps; in Part I (pilot study) a panel of 20 participants ingested either 3 g a day of MSM or placebo capsules for 16 weeks. Visual and subject self assessment of wrinkles and skin texture as the predominant sign of ageing was observed. In Part II (dose-response study), 63 participants ingested either 1 g or 3 g per day of MSM for 16 weeks. Expert clinical grading, instrumental measurements and consumer perception was used to evaluate skin conditions like lines and wrinkles. Additionally, instrumentational analysis was conducted using corneometer and cutometer for investigation of skin hydration, firmness and elasticity. Results: Part I of the study clearly indicates that oral ingestion of MSM (3 g/d) reduces signs of ageing like facial wrinkles ( p < 0.05) and skin roughness ( p < 0.05) as compared to placebo. Detailed analysis in Part II instrumentation assessments showed a significant ( p < 0.05) improvement from baseline in the severity of facial wrinkles, as well as improved skin firmness, elasticity and hydration with MSM. Some of these parameters exhibited a good dose-response indicating that the higher (3 g/d) of the supplement was more effective than the lower dose of 1 g/d, but generally the lower dose of 1 g/d appeared to be sufficiently effective in reducing the facial signs of ageing. Conclusion: This study indicated that MSM is effective in reducing visual signs of skin ageing even at a low dose of 1 g/d.

Stem cell secretome as a new booster for regenerative medicine

Stem cells are an undifferentiated cell population that has the ability to develop into many different cell types and also has the ability to repair damaged tissues in some cases. For a long time, the stem cell regenerative paradigm has been based on the assumption that progenitor cells play a critical role in tissue repair by means of their plasticity and differentiation potential. However, recent works suggest that the mechanism underlying the benefits of stem cell transplantation might relate to a paracrine modulatory effect rather than the replacement of affected cells at the site of injury. This paracrine modulatory effect derives from secretome which comprises a diverse host of growth factors, cytokines, chemokines, angiogenic factors, and exosomes which are extracellular vesicles that are produced in the endosomal compartment of most eukaryotic cells and are from about 30 to several hundred nanometers in diameter. The role of these factors is being increasingly recognized as key to the regulation of many physiological processes including leading endogenous and progenitor cells to sites of injury as well as mediating apoptosis, proliferation, migration, and angiogenesis. In reality, the immunomodulatory and paracrine role of these factors may mainly account for the therapeutic effects of stem cells and a number of in vitro and in vivo researches have proved limited stem cell engraftment at the site of injury. As a cell-free way for regenerative medicine therapies, stem cell secretome has shown great potential in a variety of clinical applications including prevention of cardiac disfunction, neurodegenerative disease, type 1 diabetes, hair loss, tumors, and joint osteoarthritis.

An Open-Label Single-Arm, Monocentric Study Assessing the Efficacy and Safety of Natural Pterostilbene (Pterocarpus marsupium) for Skin Brightening and Antiaging Effects

BACKGROUND

Both intrinsic and environmental factors play a role in premature ageing of the skin. Natural extracts have been extensively used to reduce the signs of ageing in recent years. Pterostilbene is a natural analog of resveratrol with therapeutic properties against numerous diseases mainly due to its ability to reduce reactive oxygen species.

METHODS

We studied the anti-aging and skin brightening effect of a 0.4% formulation of natural pterostilbene in healthy volunteers (N=38) in an open-label, single-arm, monocentric study for 8 weeks. The melanogenesis inhibitory, anti-tyrosinase and anti-collagenase and anti-elastase properties of pterostilbene were evaluated in vitro.

RESULTS

Natural pterostilbene showed significant inhibition of melanogenesis in vitro. Pterostilbene cream (0.4%) was highly effective in reducing markers of aging and induces even skin tone. The product was effective in reducing wrinkles and fine lines, improved skin hydration elasticity and showed no adverse effects.

CONCLUSION

Our results suggest that natural pterostilbene is a safe and effective ingredient for use in cosmetic preparation to reduce the markers of skin ageing and brighten the skin tone.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

Clinical Trial Registration India Identifier CTRI/2019/01/017160 [Registered on 18/01/2019].

Discovery of a Highly Selective MC1R Agonists Pentapeptide to Be Used as a Skin Pigmentation Enhancer and with Potential Anti-Aging Properties

One of the first lines of cutaneous defense against photoaging is (a) the synthesis of melanin and (b) the initiation of an oxidative stress response to protect skin against the harmful effects of solar radiation. Safe and selective means to stimulate epidermal pigmentation associated with oxidative stress defense are; however, scarce. Activation of the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) on epidermal melanocytes represents a key step in cutaneous pigmentation initiation and, additionally, it regulates cellular defense mechanisms like oxidative stress and DNA-repair. Thus, making the activation of MC1R an attractive strategy for modulating skin pigmentation and oxidative stress. In this context, we designed and synthesized pentapeptides that act as MC1R agonists. These peptides bound, with high potency, to MC1R and activated cAMP synthesis in CHO cells expressing human MC1R. Using one lead pentapeptide, we could show that this activation of MC1R was specific as testing the activation of other G-protein coupled receptors, including the MC-receptor family, was negative. In vitro efficacy on mouse melanoma cells showed similar potency as for the synthetic MC1R agonist alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (NDP-alpha-MSH). Moreover, we could reproduce this activity in human skin tissue culture. The lead pentapeptide was able to induce ex-vivo protein expression of key melanogenesis markers melanocyte inducing transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase (TYR), and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP-1). Concerning oxidative stress response, we found that the pentapeptide enhanced the activation of Nrf2 after UVA-irradiation. Our results make this pentapeptide an ideal candidate as a skin pigmentation enhancer that mimics alpha-MSH and may also have anti-photoaging effects on the skin.

Conventional Nanofat and SVF/ADSC-Concentrated Nanofat: A Comparative Study on Improving Photoaging of Nude Mice Skin

BACKGROUND

Nanofats could improve photoaging. Stromal vascular fraction (SVF) and adipose-derived stem cells (ADSCs) may play pivotal roles. However, SVFs and ADSCs in nanofats processed by conventional methods cannot be enriched. Some researchers have found that after centrifugation, the SVF/ADSC density increases from top to bottom.

OBJECTIVES

The authors hypothesized that centrifugation can be used to obtain SVF/ADSC-concentrated nanofats that are superior to conventional nanofats in improving the photoaging of skin.

METHODS

After a photoaging model was successfully established in nude mice, the back of each mouse was divided into 4 areas and randomly injected with conventional nanofat, centrifuged nanofat (either the middle or lower layer of centrifuged nanofat), or normal saline. Wrinkles, dermis thickness, dermal collagen content, and elastic fiber morphology were measured and compared at weeks 4 and 8.

RESULTS

Compared with the wrinkles in the physiological saline injection areas, the wrinkles in the areas injected with the 3 nanofats (lower and middle layers of centrifuged nanofat and conventional nanofat) were significantly reduced. All 3 nanofat groups showed increased dermal thickness, increased collagen content, and a more regular distribution of elastic fibers compared with the saline injection areas.

CONCLUSIONS

The study established the efficacy of nanofats in improving photoaging by reducing wrinkles and increasing the thickness of dermal collagen, making nanofats a promising novel treatment for photoaging. The SVF/ADSC-concentrated nanofats exhibited the most improvement.

Controlled mechanical vibration and impacts on skin biology

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE

Different biological models have shown how mechanical stimulation may induce physiological responses from solicited cells, tissues, or organs. In models of cultured skin cells, the frequency of the mechanical stress appears to be a paramount parameter, generating a biological response in some cells, particularly from dermal fibroblasts. Our objective was to explore in ex vivo human skin explants the effects of mechanical stimulation.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Mechanical stimulations were provided by a torque test device, with different end effectors, able to generate cyclic strains at different frequencies (from 40 to 120 Hz). Skin explant samples were stimulated twice daily by the device for one minute, over 10 days.

RESULTS

At days 0, 5, and 10, samples were processed by immunohistological procedures, allowing some structural dermal proteins to be quantified (fluorescence). As compared to untreated skin explant samples, the stimulation procedure clearly led some proteins of the dermal-epidermal and some dermal proteins to be overexpressed. This stimulation was found to be frequency-dependent, with the greatest overall increases occurring at 60 and 90 Hz.

CONCLUSION

For the first time, ultrafast ultrasound imaging in vitro (phantom mimicking skin mechanical properties) was used to analyze mechanical waves transmitted to the skin layers as a function of end effector shape.

Inhibitory role of silk cocoon extract against elastase, hyaluronidase and UV radiation-induced matrix metalloproteinase expression in human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes

Topical delivery of potent antioxidants maintain the redox balance of the skin, which leads to the downregulation of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression and prevents UV radiation-induced photoaging. In this study, we aimed at investigating the inhibitory role of silk cocoon extract (SCE) isolated from the Antheraea assamensis (AA), Bombyx mori (BM), and Philosamia ricini (PR) silk varieties against UV radiation-induced MMP expression. Incubation of elastase and hyaluronidase with Antheraea assamensis silk cocoon extract (AASCE) caused 50% inhibition of activity. The assessment of total collagen content using the Sirius red assay showed that AASCE (10 μg mL-1) and Philosamia ricini silk cocoon extract (PRSCE at 100 μg mL-1 concentration) post-treatment significantly enhanced the total collagen content in UVA1 and UVB irradiated HDF cells, whereas BM silk cocoon extract (BMSCE at 100 μg mL-1 concentration) post-treatment significantly enhanced the total collagen content in UVA1-irradiated HDF cells. Gene expression studies revealed AASCE and PRSCE post-treatment downregulated the expression of interleukin (IL)-6, MMP-1 and upregulated procollagen genes in UV irradiated HDF cells. Gelatin zymography studies with AASCE post-treatment downregulated the release of MMP-2 and MMP-9 by HaCaT cells. The overall results validate AASCE efficiently shielding UV radiation-induced collagen and elastin degradation by downregulation of MMP expression, substantiating its further use as a potent antioxidant complement in skin care formulations.

Use of formulations for sensitive skin improves the visible signs of aging, including wrinkle size and elasticity

Background: Sensitive skin affects an increasingly large proportion of the population and is less tolerant to frequent and prolonged use of cosmetics. This study investigates the antiaging effects of a skin care system developed for use on sensitive skin. Methods: A total of 30 healthy Caucasian females, aged 32-72, were enrolled in this double-blind randomized placebo-controlled split-face study. A routine consisting of twice daily topical applications of the test cleanser and test moisturizer or placebo or positive control products was followed for 28 days, with parameters measured at baseline and at 7-day intervals. Objective skin assessments for hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin surface topography, elasticity and safety assessment were conducted. Results: Wrinkle surface, length and depth significantly improved by 34.8±4.7% (P<0.001), 19.0±3.2% (P<0.05) and 24.3±3.5% (P<0.05), respectively, after 28 days of skin care treatment with the test cleanser and test moisturizer. R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity) and R7 (biological elasticity) significantly increased by 32.8±6.5% (P<0.001), 47.3±8.6% (P<0.001) and 50.6±5.1% (P<0.001), respectively, while R6 (viscoelastic portion) significantly decreased by 33.4±4.6% (P<0.001) after 28 days. Skin hydration was also found to increase significantly after 28 days by 42.2±8.5% (P<0.01), but there was no change in TEWL. No adverse events were reported. Conclusions: A novel skin care routine developed for use on sensitive skin significantly improves the signs of aging including hydration, wrinkle size and elasticity without significant adverse effects.

Evaluation of aging, diabetes mellitus, and skin wounds by scanning acoustic microscopy with protease digestion

Scanning acoustic microscopy (SAM) can assess tissue stiffness by calculating the speed of sound (SOS) through tissues. SOS increases as tissue stiffness increases. Sensitivity to protease digestion depends on protein type, concentration, and modification. We analyzed the SOS images of formalin-fixed paraffin-embedded skin sections from elderly, young, diabetic, and nondiabetic subjects, as well as chronic and acute wounds. SAM provided high-resolution histology similar to LM and revealed characteristic SOS alteration following pepsin treatment. SOS values of dermis samples from elderly subjects (especially females) were lower than those of younger adults, which was indicative of age-related dermal softening and loosening. SOS values of elderly females were lower than those of younger females and elderly males. Dermal SOS showed a positive correlation with epidermal thickness. SOS values of epidermis of elderly subjects were higher than those of younger adults and showed a rapid decline 0.5h after protease digestion. Reticular dermis of diabetic patients exhibited greater pepsin resistance than that of nondiabetic patients. Chronic wounds exhibited greater SOS values and pepsin resistance than acute wounds. SOS variation with aging, diabetes mellitus, and wound fibrosis reflected histological and mechanical changes associated with senescence and disease duration. Epidermal thickness reflects age-related changes in dermal stiffness.

Dermal fiber structures and photoaging

The use of multiphoton imaging has become a standard technique to visualize the dermis fibers as it requires no specific staining. The density and organization of collagen and elastin are common markers of skin intrinsic aging and photoaging; thus, there is a need of grading this skin aging with quantitative indicators able to provide a robust evaluation of the dermis fibers' state. We propose a systematic analysis of multiphoton images of skin biopsies taken on the buttock and the forearm of patients of different ages. The intensity histograms of images were analyzed through their moments, a wavelet decomposition was done, and the wavelet coefficients distribution was fitted by a generalized Gaussian distribution. Different parameters relative to the collagen or elastin densities, organizations, and structures were calculated and exhibit phenomena specific to intrinsic or extrinsic aging. Those indicators could become a standard method to analyze the degree of skin aging (intrinsic or extrinsic) through multiphoton imaging.

A novel microbial technique for producing high-quality sophorolipids from horse oil suitable for cosmetic applications

Horse oil contains linoleic, palmitoleic and unsaturated fatty acids that are similar to those in human skin, and may therefore be an ideal substance from which to isolate biosurfactants for cosmetic products to improve human skin quality. Herein, an innovative approach was developed to synthesise sophorolipids from horse oil by hydrolysis, followed by fermentation using the yeast Candida bombicola. The yield of sophorolipids from direct fermentation of horse oil and hydrolysed horse oil was 40.6 ± 1.3 g l-1 and 58.4 ± 1.8 g l-1 respectively. To further increase the yield, 30-40 g l-1 glucose was added in a fed-batch fermentation process to maintain the pH between 4.0 and 4.5, resulting in a conversion yield of 71.7 ± 0.8 g l-1 . The purity and structure of the synthesised sophorolipids were analysed by ultra-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry and nuclear magnetic resonance. An in vitro human dermal fibroblast model was used as a surrogate for human skin to measure elastase inhibition activity. Antiwrinkle properties of isolated sophorolipids were better than those of horse oil or hydrolysed horse oil in several in vitro assays. Furthermore, no cytotoxicity was observed at a concentration of 50 μg ml-1 , and wound-healing capacity was evident in a cell culture model. Additionally, the synthesised sophorolipids attenuated lipopolysaccharide-induced expression of inflammatory cytokines in macrophages, and efficiently inhibited several strains of bacteria and yeast. In conclusion, fed-batch fermentation of hydrolysed horse oil is a novel and efficient approach for producing high-quality and high-yield sophorolipids that exhibit great potential as cosmetic ingredients.

Anti-ageing skin effects of Korean bamboo salt on SKH1 hairless mice

Bamboo salt is generated by baking bamboo and sea salt and is used as a traditional food or medicine. The aim of this study was to investigate the anti-ageing skin effects of Korean bamboo salt and to compare the antioxidant, anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory effects of various salts, including purified salt, solar salt, bath solar salt, Masada solar salt, 1-time baked bamboo salt (1× bamboo salt), and 9-times baked bamboo salt (9× bamboo salt). Based on the content of mineral elements, pH, OH groups and redox potential amperometric analysis, the 9× bamboo salt showed the most antioxidant components and characteristics compared to the other salts. The in vitro results showed that the 9× bamboo salt could inhibit oxidative damage by hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) treatment in HaCaT keratinocytes, and its effect was better than that of the other salts. In an in vivo experiment, SHK-1 hairless mice were treated with UV (ultraviolet) radiation to induce ageing. The epidermal thickness and epidermal structures were then assessed by phenotypic and histological analyses. The 0.2% 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated mice had a thinner epidermis than the control mice, and the sebaceous glands were almost intact with a regular arrangement that was similar to those in the normal group. Compared with the UV-treated group (control group) and other salt-treated groups, the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups had higher dermal collagen and elastic fibre content. Fewer mast cells were observed in the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups than in the control group. The activities of the skin antioxidant-related enzymes superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) in the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups were higher than those in other groups and similar to those in the normal group, but lipid peroxide (LPO) activity and carbonylated protein levels showed the opposite trends. Furthermore, the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups had protein contents similar to those of the normal group. In addition, the 9× bamboo salt and 1× bamboo salt effectively down-regulated the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) and matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and up-regulated the expression of tissue inhibitor expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1), matrix metalloproteinase-2 (TIMP-2), SOD and CAT compared to the other salts at a concentration of 0.2% (p < 0.05). These results suggest that at appropriate concentrations, bamboo salt could prevent skin ageing induced by ultraviolet radiation b (UVB) photodamage.

The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health

The primary function of the skin is to act as a barrier against insults from the environment, and its unique structure reflects this. The skin is composed of two layers: the epidermal outer layer is highly cellular and provides the barrier function, and the inner dermal layer ensures strength and elasticity and gives nutritional support to the epidermis. Normal skin contains high concentrations of vitamin C, which supports important and well-known functions, stimulating collagen synthesis and assisting in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage. This knowledge is often used as a rationale for the addition of vitamin C to topical applications, but the efficacy of such treatment, as opposed to optimising dietary vitamin C intake, is poorly understood. This review discusses the potential roles for vitamin C in skin health and summarises the in vitro and in vivo research to date. We compare the efficacy of nutritional intake of vitamin C versus topical application, identify the areas where lack of evidence limits our understanding of the potential benefits of vitamin C on skin health, and suggest which skin properties are most likely to benefit from improved nutritional vitamin C intake.

The Possible Pre- and Post-UVA Radiation Protective Effect of Amaranth Oil on Human Skin Fibroblast Cells

Background:

The health effects of Amaranth Oil (AO) are attributed to its specific chemical composition. That makes it an outstanding natural product for the prevention and treatment of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-related pathologies such as sunburn, photoaging, photoimmunosuppression, and photocarcinogenesis. Most of the studies are taken on animal model, and there is a lack of research on the endogenous effect of AO on fibroblast level, where UVA takes it harmful place.

Objective:

The aim of this study was evaluation if AO can protect or abolish UVA exposure effect on human skin fibroblast.

Materials and Methods:

The 0.1% AO, 0.25% AO, and 0.5% AO concentration and irradiation for 15 min under UVA-emitting lamp were studied in various condition. In all experiments, the mean values for six assays ± standard deviations were calculated.

Results:

Pretreatment with various concentrations of AO was tested. The highest concentration of AO where cell survival was observed was 0.5%. Cytotoxicity assays provided evidence for pre- and post-UVA protective effect of 0.1% AO among three tested concentrations. The results also provide evidence that UVA has inhibitory effect on collagen biosynthesis in confluent skin fibroblast, but presence of 0.1% AO abolishes pre- and post-UVA effect comparing to other used AO concentration. The assessment results on DNA biosynthesis show the significant abolished post-UVA effect when 0.1% and 0.5% of AO were added.

Conclusion:

AO gives pre- and post-UVA protection in low concentration. This provides the evidence for using it not as a main protective factor against UV but as one of the combined components in cosmetic formulation.

SUMMARY

The recommended Amaranth Oil (AO) concentration in cosmetic formulation is between 0.1 and 5%

Pretreatment with various concentrations of AO suggests to use the highest 0.5% concentration of AO in human skin fibroblast cultures

The 0.1% of AO in fibroblast cultures, protects and abolishes effect of ultraviolet A (UVA) exposure

UVA has inhibitory effect on collagen biosynthesis in skin fibroblast, but presence of 0.1% AO abolishes pre- and post-UVA effect

The abolished post-UVA effect occurs when 0.1% and 0.5% of AO were added on DNA biosynthesis.

Abbreviations used: AO: Amaranth Oil.

In vivo characterization of structural changes after topical application of glucocorticoids in healthy human skin

Topical glucocorticoids (GC) are known to induce changes in human skin with the potential to develop skin atrophy. Here, atrophogenic effects and subsequent structural changes in the skin after topical application of GC were investigated in vivo. Sixteen healthy volunteers were topically treated daily on the forearms with clobetasol propionate, betamethasone dipropionate, and the petrolatum vehicle for 4 weeks. All treated skin areas and a nontreated control area were examined by ultrasound, optical coherence tomography, confocal laser scanning microscopy, multiphoton tomography (MPT), and resonance Raman spectroscopy at baseline 1 day after last application and 1 week after last application. Investigated parameters included stratum corneum thickness, epidermal, and full skin thickness, keratinocyte size and density, keratinocyte nucleus-to-cytoplasm ratio, skin surface classification, relative collagen and elastin signal intensity, second-harmonic generation-to-autofluorescence aging index of dermis (SAAID), and the antioxidant status of the skin. A reduction in epidermal and dermal skin thickness was observed in GC treated as well as in vehicle-treated and untreated skin areas on the volar forearm. MPT analysis showed an increased epidermal cell density and reduced cell size and nucleus-to-cytoplasm ratio and a significant increase of SAAID after GC treatment indicating a restructuring or compression of collagen fibers clinically being observed as atrophic changes.

Design of an elastin-layered dermal regeneration template

We demonstrate a novel approach for the production of tunable quantities of elastic fibers. We also show that exogenous tropoelastin is rate-limiting for elastin synthesis regardless of the age of the dermal fibroblast donor. Additionally, we provide a strategy to further enhance synthesis by older cells through the application of conditioned media. We show that this approach delivers an elastin layer on one side of the leading dermal repair template for contact with the deep dermis in order to deliver prefabricated elastic fibers to a physiologically appropriate site during subsequent surgery. This system is attractive because it provides for the first time a viable path for sufficient, histologically detectable levels of patient elastin into full-thickness wound sites that have until now lacked this elastic underlayer.

STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE

The scars of full thickness wounds typically lack elasticity. Elastin is essential for skin elasticity and is enriched in the deep dermis. This paper is significant because it shows that: (1) we can generate elastic fibers in tunable quantities, (2) tropoelastin is the rate-limiting component in elastin synthesis in vitro, (3) we can generate elastin fibers regardless of donor age, (4) we describe a novel approach to further increase the numbers and thickness of elastic fibers for older donors, (5) we improve on Integra Dermal Regeneration Template and generate a new hybrid biomaterial intended to subsequently surgically deliver these elastic fibers, (6) the elastic fiber layer is presented on the side of Integra that is intended for delivery into its physiologically appropriate site i.e. the deep dermis.

Effects of a skin-massaging device on the ex-vivo expression of human dermis proteins and in-vivo facial wrinkles

Mechanical and geometrical cues influence cell behaviour. At the tissue level, almost all organs exhibit immediate mechanical responsiveness, in particular by increasing their stiffness in direct proportion to an applied mechanical stress. It was recently shown in cultured-cell models, in particular with fibroblasts, that the frequency of the applied stress is a fundamental stimulating parameter. However, the influence of the stimulus frequency at the tissue level has remained elusive. Using a device to deliver an oscillating torque that generates cyclic strain at different frequencies, we studied the effect(s) of mild skin massage in an ex vivo model and in vivo. Skin explants were maintained ex vivo for 10 days and massaged twice daily for one minute at various frequencies within the range of 65–85 Hz. Biopsies were analysed at D0, D5 and D10 and processed for immuno-histological staining specific to various dermal proteins. As compared to untreated skin explants, the massaging procedure clearly led to higher rates of expression, in particular for decorin, fibrillin, tropoelastin, and procollagen-1. The mechanical stimulus thus evoked an anti-aging response. Strikingly, the expression was found to depend on the stimulus frequency with maximum expression at 75Hz. We then tested whether this mechanical stimulus had an anti-aging effect in vivo. Twenty Caucasian women (aged 65-75y) applied a commercial anti-aging cream to the face and neck, followed by daily treatments using the anti-aging massage device for 8 weeks. A control group of twenty-two women, with similar ages to the first group, applied the cream alone. At W0, W4 and W8, a blinded evaluator assessed the global facial wrinkles, skin texture, lip area, cheek wrinkles, neck sagging and neck texture using a clinical grading scale. We found that combining the massaging device with a skin anti-aging formulation amplified the beneficial effects of the cream.

Elastin structure and its involvement in skin photoageing

Skin aging is a complex process that may be caused by factors that are intrinsic and extrinsic to the body. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation represents one of the main sources of skin damage over the years and characterizes a process known as photoaging. Among the changes that affect cutaneous tissue with age, the loss of elastic properties caused by changes in elastin production, increased degradation and/or processing produces a substantial impact on tissue esthetics and health. The occurrence of solar elastosis is one of the main markers of cutaneous photoaging and is characterized by disorganized and non-functional deposition of elastic fibers. The occurrence of UV radiation-induced alternative splicing of the elastin gene, which leads to inadequate synthesis of the proteins required for the correct assembly of elastic fibers, is a potential explanation for this phenomenon. Innovative studies have been fundamental for the elucidation of rarely explored photoaging mechanisms and have enabled the identification of effective therapeutic alternatives such as cosmetic products. This review addresses cutaneous photoaging and the changes that affect elastin in this process.

The dynamic anatomy and patterning of skin

The skin is often viewed as a static barrier that protects the body from the outside world. Emphasis on studying the skin's architecture and biomechanics in the context of restoring skin movement and function is often ignored. It is fundamentally important that if skin is to be modelled or developed, we do not only focus on the biology of skin but also aim to understand its mechanical properties and structure in living dynamic tissue. In this review, we describe the architecture of skin and patterning seen in skin as viewed from a surgical perspective and highlight aspects of the microanatomy that have never fully been realized and provide evidence or concepts that support the importance of studying living skin's dynamic behaviour. We highlight how the structure of the skin has evolved to allow the body dynamic form and function, and how injury, disease or ageing results in a dramatic changes to the microarchitecture and changes physical characteristics of skin. Therefore, appreciating the dynamic microanatomy of skin from the deep fascia through to the skin surface is vitally important from a dermatological and surgical perspective. This focus provides an alternative perspective and approach to addressing skin pathologies and skin ageing.

Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proof

BACKGROUND

The megatrend of population ageing is leading to a growing demand for "anti-ageing" treatments, especially to prevent or treat skin ageing. Facing an increasing offer, consumers are choosing more and more skin care products supported by a scientific rationale, active ingredients and clinical proof of efficacy.

OBJECTIVE

Considering consumer expectations, this research led to the discovery of acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A), a novel active ingredient to improve sagging skin and loss of skin firmness.

RESULTS

This supplement is featuring seven manuscripts aiming at presenting the research and investigations from consumer insights, discovery of A-A-A, its in vitro activity confirmation, safety assessment, formulation and its dermal absorption to the clinical proof of efficacy, investigated through two pilots' double bind randomized and placebo controlled studies on photo-aged skin.

CONCLUSION

This extensive research enabled us to discover A-A-A, as an active ingredient with potential to repair sign of skin ageing and supported by clinical proof of efficacy. This active ingredient will be soon launched in a commercial innovative skin care range, delivering desirable anti-wrinkle and skin lifting benefits.

Skin mirrors human aging

Abstract Aged skin exhibits disturbed lipid barrier, angiogenesis, production of sweat, immune functions, and calcitriol synthesis as well as the tendency towards development of certain benign or malignant diseases. These complex biological processes comprise endogenous and exogenous factors. Ethnicity also markedly influences the phenotype of skin aging. The theories of cellular senescence, telomere shortening and decreased proliferative capacity, mitochondrial DNA single mutations, the inflammation theory, and the free radical theory try to explain the biological background of the global aging process, which is mirrored in the skin. The development of advanced glycation end-products and the declining hormonal levels are major factors influencing intrinsic aging. Chronic photodamage of the skin is the prime factor leading to extrinsic skin aging. The deterioration of important skin functions, due to intrinsic and extrinsic aging, leads to clinical manifestations, which mirror several internal age-associated diseases such as diabetes, arterial hypertension and malignancies.

An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin

Background

The demand for antiaging products has dramatically increased in recent years, driven by an aging population seeking to maintain the appearance of youth. This study investigates the effects of an antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) in conjunction with vitamins B₃, C, and E on the biomechanical parameters of facial skin.

Methods

Fifty two volunteers followed an antiaging skin care regimen comprising of cleanser, eye cream, day moisturizer, and night moisturizer for 21 days. Wrinkle depth (R_y) and skin roughness (R_a) were measured by skin surface profilometry of the crow’s feet area, and skin elasticity parameters R2 (gross elasticity), R5 (net elasticity), R6 (viscoelastic portion), and R7 (recovery after deformation) were determined for facial skin by cutometer, preapplication and after 7, 14, and 21 days. Volunteers also completed a self-assessment questionnaire.

Results

Compared to baseline, R_y and R_a significantly improved by 32.5% (P<0.0001) and 42.9% (P<0.0001), respectively, after 21 days of antiaging skin care treatment. These results were observed by the volunteers with 9 out of 10 discerning an improvement in skin texture and smoothness. Compared to baseline, R2 and R5 significantly increased by 15.2% (P<0.0001) and 12.5% (P=0.0449), respectively, while R6 significantly decreased by 17.7% (P<0.0001) after 21 days. R7 increased by 9.7% after 21 days compared to baseline but this was not significant over this time period.

Conclusion

An antiaging skin care system containing AHAs and vitamins significantly improves the biomechanical parameters of the skin including wrinkles and skin texture, as well as elasticity without significant adverse effects.

Damage to skin extracellular matrix induced by UV exposure

SIGNIFICANCE

Chronic exposure to environmental ultraviolet radiation (UVR) plays a key role in both photocarcinogenesis and induction of accelerated skin aging. Although the spatiotemporal consequences of UVR exposure for the composition and architecture of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) are well characterized, the pathogenesis of photoaging remains poorly defined. Given the compelling evidence for the role of reactive oxygen species (ROS) as mediators of photoaging, UVR-exposed human skin may be an accessible model system in which to characterize the role of oxidative damage in both internal and external tissues.

RECENT ADVANCES

Although the cell-mediated degradation of dermal components via UVR-induced expression of ECM proteases has long been identified as an integral part of the photoaging pathway, the relative importance and identity of cellular and extracellular photosensitizers (direct hit and bystanders models, respectively) in initiating this enzymatic activity is unclear. Recently, both age-related protein glycation and relative amino-acid composition have been identified as potential risk factors for photo-ionization and/or photo-sensitization. Here, we propose a selective multi-hit model of photoaging.

CRITICAL ISSUES

Bioinformatic analyses can be employed to identify candidate UVR targets/photosensitizers, but the action of UVR on protein structure and/or ROS production should be verified experimentally. Crucially, in the case of biochemically active ECM components such as fibronectin and fibrillin, the downstream effects of photo-degradation on tissue homeostasis remain to be confirmed.

FUTURE DIRECTIONS

Both topical antioxidants and inhibitors of detrimental cell signaling may be effective in abrogating the effects of specific UVR-mediated protein degradation in the dermis.

Skin health in older age

As people age, their skin undergoes changes which result in reduced elasticity, increased fragility and an altered immune response; in essence it becomes frail. As life expectancy is increasing the health of older skin is becoming a progressively more important facet of overall care. In addition to the consequences of ageing for otherwise healthy skin, the relative incidence of some dermatological conditions is age-dependent. In particular, xerosis (dry skin), cutaneous malignancies and skin injuries are more common in older people. In this review we describe the functional consequences of skin ageing and discuss the current evidence on how skin health may be maintained and dermatological conditions prevented in an ageing population. The future of dermatological health-care provision in the older population relies on the development of coordinated pathways of care, which start from a young age. Better quality research coordinated by the establishment of institutions dealing with skin health and ageing would be a method of addressing these needs.

In vitro techniques to assess the proficiency of skin care cosmetic formulations

Cosmetics comprising either natural or synthetic components are used almost regularly and universally in different forms to enhance the beauty. The utmost disclosure of human membrane to sunlight and environmental pollution results in the exhibition of free radical, that react with deoxyribonucleic acid, proteins and fatty acids, causation oxidative destruction dysfunction of the antioxidant system. In skin, the formation of reactive oxygen species leads to skin diseases, predominantly cutaneous malignancies, immunosuppression, wrinkles, aging, etc., The human organism fosters a barrier practice against the destructive action of free radicals, comprising mostly of vitamins, carotenoids and enzymes. Cosmetic products are the best option to reduce skin disorders such as hyper pigmentation, skin aging, skin wrinkling and rough skin texture, etc., Hence in this review, we conferred various in vitro methods that are used for the development of novel cosmetic formulation. There is an expanding fascinate employing in vitro techniques because they are less time consuming, more cost-effective and lessen the participation of human volunteers.

Ultraviolet radiation, aging and the skin: prevention of damage by topical cAMP manipulation

Being the largest and most visible organ of the body and heavily influenced by environmental factors, skin is ideal to study the long-term effects of aging. Throughout our lifetime, we accumulate damage generated by UV radiation. UV causes inflammation, immune changes, physical changes, impaired wound healing and DNA damage that promotes cellular senescence and carcinogenesis. Melanoma is the deadliest form of skin cancer and among the malignancies of highest increasing incidence over the last several decades. Melanoma incidence is directly related to age, with highest rates in individuals over the age of 55 years, making it a clear age-related disease. In this review, we will focus on UV-induced carcinogenesis and photo aging along with natural protective mechanisms that reduce amount of “realized” solar radiation dose and UV-induced injury. We will focus on the theoretical use of forskolin, a plant-derived pharmacologically active compound to protect the skin against UV injury and prevent aging symptoms by up-regulating melanin production. We will discuss its use as a topically-applied root-derived formulation of the Plectranthus barbatus (Coleus forskolii) plant that grows naturally in Asia and that has long been used in various Aryuvedic teas and therapeutic preparations.

Combined topical application of lotus and green tea improves facial skin surface parameters

No study has yet determined the anti-wrinkle efficacy of green tea plus lotus in Asian subjects using skin image analysis technique. In this study, the efficacy of two cosmetic active formulations intended for the treatment of facial wrinkles (green tea and lotus extract) has been evaluated in healthy subjects using a non-invasive device, the Visioscan(®) VC, and software for surface evaluation of living skin (SELS). Thirty-three healthy Asian subjects, all men, were enrolled after consent in a placebo-controlled comparative study with a split face design. One group applied multiple emulsions with green tea. The second group applied multiple emulsions with lotus extract, while a third group applied a multiple emulsion with a combination of both extracts. In all three groups, active formulations were applied to one side of the face and the placebo to the other side, once daily over the 60-day treatment course. Non-invasive measurements were performed at baseline and on days 30 and 60. Interesting and significant improvements were observed for the treatment effects on skin roughness (SEr), scaliness (SEsc), smoothness (SEsm), and wrinkling (SEw). For example, a 49.99% improvement in skin smoothness (SEsm) from baseline value and -23.22% and perfection in facial wrinkles (SEw) substantiated that combined treatment is superior over single treatments. Green tea and lotus combined in multiple emulsions brought a superior synergistic anti-aging effect. We conclude that diverse anti-oxidant constituents in both plants have a potential influence on skin surface parameters, thus indicating these plants as the future of new anti-aging products.

Matrix metalloproteinase enzymes and their naturally derived inhibitors: novel targets in photocarcinoma therapy

The continuous exposure of skin to ultraviolet radiations generates reactive oxygen species leading to photoaging in which degradation of dermal collagen and degeneration of elastic fibers occurs. Matrix metalloproteinase [MMP] enzymes are the proteolytic enzymes which have significant potentiality of cleaving extracellular matrix [ECM] against Ultraviolet [UV] radiation. The important MMPs are MMP1, MMP2 and MMP7 which promote skin cancer when irradiated by UV rays. In lieu of this, the investigation of MMPs and their inhibitors are constantly being studied for successive results. Recent researches have focused on some traditionally used bioactive moieties as natural matrix metalloproteinases inhibitors (MMPIs) and emphasized on the need of more extensive and specific studies on MMPIs, so that a good combination of natural or synthetic MMPIs with the conventional drugs can be evolved for cancer chemotherapy. In this review, we discuss the current view on the feasibility of MMPs as targets for therapeutic intervention in cancer. This review also summarizes the role of small molecular weight natural MMPIs and a clinical update of those natural MMPIs that are under clinical trial stage.