Altered structure indicating reduced barrier function of lesional compared to non-lesional psoriatic skin-A non-invasive in vivo study of the human stratum corneum with confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

Psoriasis, one of the most common skin diseases affecting roughly 2%-3% of the world population, is associated with a reduced skin barrier function (SBF) that might play an important role in its pathophysiology. The SBF is provided primarily by the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin. Previous studies have revealed a higher trans-epidermal water loss, lower hydration, abnormal concentration and composition of intercellular lipids, as well as alterations in secondary keratin structure in the psoriatic SC. We compared on molecular level lesional psoriatic skin (LPS) with non-lesional psoriatic skin (nLPS) from 19 patients non-invasively in vivo, using confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy. By analysing the corresponding Raman spectra, we determined SBF-defining parameters of the SC depth-dependently. Our results revealed a lower total lipid concentration, a shift of lamellar lipid organisation towards more gauche-conformers and an increase of the less dense hexagonal lateral packing of the intercellular lipids in LPS. Furthermore, we observed lower natural moisturising factor concentration, lower total water as well as a strong tendency towards less strongly bound and more weakly bound water molecules in LPS. Finally, we detected a less stable secondary keratin structure with increased β-sheets, in contrast to the tertiary structure, showing a higher degree of folded keratin in LPS. These findings clearly suggest structural differences indicating a reduced SBF in LPS, and are discussed in juxtaposition to preceding outcomes for psoriatic and healthy skin. Understanding the alterations of the psoriatic SC provides insights into the exact pathophysiology of psoriasis and paves the way for optimal future treatments.

Atopic Dermatitis: Molecular Alterations between Lesional and Non-Lesional Skin Determined Noninvasively by In Vivo Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

Atopic dermatitis (AD)/atopic eczema is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease affecting nearly 14% of the adult population. An important pathogenetic pillar in AD is the disrupted skin barrier function (SBF). The atopic stratum corneum (SC) has been examined using several methods, including Raman microspectroscopy, yet so far, there is no depth-dependent analysis over the entire SC thickness. Therefore, we recruited 21 AD patients (9 female, 12 male) and compared the lesional (LAS) with non-lesional atopic skin (nLAS) in vivo with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Our results demonstrated decreased total intercellular lipid and carotenoid concentrations, as well as a shift towards decreased orthorhombic lateral lipid organisation in LAS. Further, we observed a lower concentration of natural moisturising factor (NMF) and a trend towards increased strongly bound and decreased weakly bound water in LAS. Finally, LAS showed an altered secondary and tertiary keratin structure, demonstrating a more folded keratin state than nLAS. The obtained results are discussed in comparison with healthy skin and yield detailed insights into the atopic SC structure. LAS clearly shows molecular alterations at certain SC depths compared with nLAS which imply a reduced SBF. A thorough understanding of these alterations provides useful information on the aetiology of AD and for the development/control of targeted topical therapies.

Spectroscopic biofeedback on cutaneous carotenoids: A powerful tool for primary prevention in advanced age

Antioxidants exhibit a powerful defense mechanism against aging and chronic disease. The human skin reflects the overall antioxidant status of the body. The cutaneous carotenoid concentration is a biomarker for individual nutritional intake of antioxidants, as it correlates with the overall antioxidant status. The cutaneous carotenoid concentrations of 44 adults were measured using a multiple spatially resolved reflection spectroscopy. During the first phase of the study, measurements of carotenoid concentrations were performed without revealing the antioxidant status, followed by an intervention phase during which the volunteers were informed about their individual values by biofeedback. During the third phase, biofeedback was combined with an additional intake of fruit juices. Across time points, participants showed increasing levels of carotenoid status. Thus, biofeedback leads to an improvement of the carotenoid value of the skin. Providing a biofeedback measurement to monitor the individual antioxidative status may be an easy and cost-effective way of primary prevention.

Tattoo pigments are localized intracellularly in the epidermis and dermis of fresh and old tattoos - in vivo study using two-photon excited FLIM

BACKGROUND

The knowledge about the location and kinetics of tattoo pigments in human skin after application and during the recovery is restricted due to the limitation of in vivo methods for visualizing pigments. Here, the localization and distribution of tattoo ink pigments in freshly and old tattooed human skin during the regeneration of the epidermis and dermis were investigated in vivo.

METHODS

Two-photon excited fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPE-FLIM) was used to identify tattoo ink pigments in human skin in vivo down to the reticular dermis. One subject with a freshly applied tattoo and 10 subjects with tattoos applied over 3 years ago were investigated in the epidermal and dermal layers in vivo. One histological slide of tattooed skin was used to localize skin-resident tattoo pigment using light microscopy.

RESULTS

The carbon black particles deposited around the incision have still been visible 84 days after tattoo application, showing delayed recovery of the epidermis. The TPE-FLIM parameters of carbon black tattoo ink pigments were found to be different to all skin components except for melanin. Distinction from melanin in the skin was based on higher fluorescence intensity and agglomerate size. Using TPE-FLIM in vivo tattoo pigment was found in 75% of tattoos applied up to 9 years ago in the epidermis within keratinocytes, dendritic cells and basal cells and in the dermis within the macrophages, mast cells and fibroblasts. Loading of highly fluorescent carbon black particles enables in vivo imaging of dendritic cells in the epidermis and fibroblasts in the dermis, which cannot be visualized in native conditions. The collagen I structures showed a higher directionality similar to scar tissue resulting in a greater firmness and decreased elasticity of the tattooed skin.

CONCLUSIONS

Here we show the kinetics and location of carbon black tattoo ink pigment immediately after application for the first time in vivo in human skin. Carbon black particles are located exclusively intracellularly in the skin of fresh and old tattoos. They are found within macrophages, mast cells and fibroblasts in the dermis and within keratinocytes, dendritic cells and basal cells in the continuously renewed epidermis even in 9-year-old tattoos in skin showing no inflammation.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Label-free imaging of M1 and M2 macrophage phenotypes in the human dermis in vivo using two-photon excited FLIM

Macrophages (ΜΦs) are important immune effector cells that promote (M1 ΜΦs) or inhibit (M2 ΜΦs) inflammation and are involved in numerous physiological and pathogenic immune responses. Their precise role and relevance, however, is not fully understood for lack of non-invasive quantification methods. Here, we show that two-photon excited fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPE-FLIM), a label-free non-invasive method, can visualize ΜΦs in the human dermis in vivo. We demonstrate in vitro that human dermal ΜΦs exhibit specific TPE-FLIM properties that distinguish them from the main components of the extracellular matrix and other dermal cells. We visualized ΜΦs, their phenotypes and phagocytosis in the skin of healthy individuals in vivo using TPE-FLIM. Additionally, machine learning identified M1 and M2 MФs with a sensitivity of 0.88±0.04 and 0.82±0.03 and a specificity of 0.89±0.03 and 0.90±0.03, respectively. In clinical research, TPE-FLIM can advance the understanding of the role of MФs in health and disease.

Penetration Depth of Propylene Glycol, Sodium Fluorescein and Nile Red into the Skin Using Non-Invasive Two-Photon Excited FLIM

The stratum corneum (SC) forms a strong barrier against topical drug delivery. Therefore, understanding the penetration depth and pathways into the SC is important for the efficiency of drug delivery and cosmetic safety. In this study, TPT-FLIM (two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging) was applied as a non-invasive optical method for the visualization of skin structure and components to study penetration depths of exemplary substances, like hydrophilic propylene glycol (PG), sodium fluorescein (NaFl) and lipophilic Nile red (NR) into porcine ear skin ex vivo. Non-fluorescent PG was detected indirectly based on the pH-dependent increase in the fluorescence lifetime of SC components. The pH similarity between PG and viable epidermis limited the detection of PG. NaFl reached the viable epidermis, which was also proved by laser scanning microscopy. Tape stripping and confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy were performed additionally to study NaFl, which revealed penetration depths of ≈5 and ≈8 μm, respectively. Lastly, NR did not permeate the SC. We concluded that the amplitude-weighted mean fluorescence lifetime is the most appropriate FLIM parameter to build up penetration profiles. This work is anticipated to provide a non-invasive TPT-FLIM method for studying the penetration of topically applied drugs and cosmetics into the skin.

Relations between the Raman spectra and molecular structure of selected carotenoids: DFT study of α-carotene, β-carotene, γ-carotene and lycopene

Using the density functional theory (DFT), we calculated the structures and Raman spectra of trans-isomers of α-carotene, β-carotene, γ-carotene and lycopene as well as trans-isomers of modified β-carotene and lycopene molecules with substituted end or/and side groups. The DFT calculations showed that the position of the CC stretching band depends mainly on the number of conjugated CC bonds and decreases with an increase in the conjugation length. The weak dependence of the position of the CC stretching band on the structure of the carotenoid side and end groups suggests that this band can be used to evaluate the conjugation length for trans-isomers of various molecules containing polyene chains. The CC stretching band shifts towards lower wavenumbers with growth of the conjugation length or masses of the end groups and to higher wavenumbers in the presence of the side CH₃ groups. The intensities of the CC and CC stretching bands are enhanced with growth of the conjugation length or masses of the end groups. The presence of the side CH₃ groups results in bending of the carotenoid backbone, splitting and dumping of intensities of the CC and CC stretching bands.

Safety and efficacy of combined essential oils for the skin barrier properties: In vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the safety and the synergistic effects of tea tree, lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine essential oils in combination on the skin using in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies.

METHODS

The phototoxicity was predicted using 3T3 neutral red uptake phototoxicity test (OECD TG 432). Skin penetration was evaluated by confocal Raman microspectroscopy using direct application of essential oils to pig ears. For the clinical studies, 40 participants were enrolled and randomized in three groups: (1) lavender, eucalyptus and tangerine, (2) the same essential oils plus melaleuca and (3) placebo group. The skin was evaluated by noninvasive techniques before and after a 90-day period of topical use.

RESULTS

The essential oils were non-phototoxic, but the tangerine oil showed dose-dependent cytotoxicity (IC50: 33.1 µg/ml), presenting 35% of penetration in the viable epidermis. On the contrary, 17.7 µg/ml in combination was applied per day in the clinical study and the penetration rate for the combinations (10%, 1.77 µg/ml achieving the viable epidermis) guaranteed the safety, since in the clinical study, the application of the four essential oils improved skin barrier and morphologic skin characteristics, as well as increased skin hydration and decreased sebum levels, with no unwanted effects reported.

CONCLUSIONS

All essential oils studied were considered non-cytotoxic or non-phototoxic separately except tangerine, which present a dose-dependent cytotoxicity. Finally, the essential oils in combination in an appropriate amount were safe and effective in the improvement of the hydrolipidic balance and morphological properties of the skin.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

Influence of nanocrystal size on the in vivo absorption kinetics of caffeine after topical application

The absorption of topically applied substances is challenging due to the effective skin barrier. Encapsulation of substances into nanoparticles was expected to be promising to increase the bioavailability of topically applied products. Since nanoparticles cannot traverse the intact skin barrier, but penetrate into the hair follicles, they could be used to deliver substances via hair follicles, where the active is released and can translocate independently transfollicularly into the viable epidermis. In the present in vivo study, this effect was investigated for caffeine. Caffeine nanocrystals of two sizes, 206 nm and 694 nm, with equal amounts of caffeine were used to study caffeine serum concentration kinetics after topical application on 5 human volunteers. The study demonstrated that at early time points, the smaller nanocrystals were more effective in increasing the bioavailability of caffeine, whereas after 20 min, the serum concentration of caffeine was higher when caffeine was applied by larger nanocrystals. Caffeine was still detectable after 5 days. The area under the curve could be increased by 82% when the 694 nm nanocrystals were applied. Especially larger sized nanocrystals seem to be a promising type of nanoparticulate preparation to increase the bioavailability of topically applied drugs via the transfollicular penetration pathway.

DFT study of Raman spectra of polyenes and ß-carotene: Dependence on length of polyene chain and isomer type

We carried out calculations of non-resonance Raman spectra of ß-carotene and polyenes CH₂(CHCH)_n-2CHCH₂ using the density functional theory (DFT). We revealed that the peak positions and intensities of the CC and CC stretching bands depend on length of the polyene chain and type of the isomer. Our experimental non-resonance Raman spectra of ß-carotene powder match well the DFT-simulated Raman spectrum of ß-carotene in the all-trans form. The peak positions and relative intensities of the CC and CC stretching bands of ß-carotene turned out to be similar in the resonance and non-resonance Raman spectra. An increase in the number of conjugated double bonds (n = 3-30) in a polyene structure results in a monotonous shift of the positions of the most intense CC and CC bands towards lower wavenumbers with an increase in the band intensities. An increase in the isomer number results in the monotonous decrease of the CC stretching band intensity for polyenes with 9, 10, 11, 15 and 24 double bonds. An increase in the isomer number inhomogeneously influences the form, position and intensity of the CC stretching band.

Blind source separation of molecular components of the human skin in vivo: non-negative matrix factorization of Raman microspectroscopy data

Determination of the molecular composition of the skin is crucial for numerous tasks in medicine, pharmacology, dermatology and cosmetology. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is a sensitive method for the evaluation of molecular depth profiles in the skin in vivo. Since the Raman spectra of most of the skin constituents significantly superimpose, a spectral decomposition by a set of predefined library components is usually performed to disentangle their contributions. However, the incorrect choice of the number and type of components or differences between the spectra of the basic components measured in vitro and in vivo can lead to incorrect results of the decomposition procedure. Here, we investigate an alternative data-driven approach based on a non-negative matrix factorization (NNMF) algorithm of depth-resolved Raman spectra of skin that does not require a priori information of spectral data for the analysis. Using the model and experimentally measured depth-resolved Raman spectra of the upper epidermis in vivo, we show that NNMF provides depth profiles of endogenous molecular components and exogenous agents penetrating through the upper epidermis for the spectra and concentration. Moreover, we demonstrate that this approach is capable of providing new information on the molecular profiles of the skin.

Formulation of drug-loaded oligodepsipeptide particles with submicron size

The size of particulate carriers is key to their transport and distribution in biological systems, and needs to be tailored in the higher submicron range to enable follicular uptake for dermal treatment. Oligodepsipeptides are promising nanoparticulate carrier systems as they can be designed to exhibit enhanced interaction with drug molecules. Here, a fabrication scheme for drug-loaded submicron particles from oligo[3-(S)-sec-butylmorpholine-2,5-dione]diol (OBMD) is presented based on an emulsion solvent evaporation method with cosolvent, surfactant, and polymer concentration as variable process parameters. The particle size (300-950 nm) increased with lower surfactant concentration and higher oligomer concentration. The addition of acetone increased the particle size at low surfactant concentration. Particle size remained stable upon the encapsulation of models compounds dexamethasone (DXM) and Nile red (NR), having different physicochemical properties. DXM was released faster compared to NR due to its higher water solubility. Overall, the results indicated that both drug-loading and size control of OBMD submicron particles can be achieved. When applied on porcine ear skin samples, the NR-loaded particles have been shown to allow NR penetration into the hair follicle and the depth reached with the 300 nm particles was comparable to the one reached with the cream formulation. A potential benefit of the particles compared to a cream is their sustained release profile.

Noninvasive measurement of the 308 nm LED-based UVB protection factor of sunscreens

The current method for determining the sun protection factor (SPF) requires erythema formation. Noninvasive alternatives have recently been suggested by several groups. Our group previously developed a functional sensor based on diffuse reflectance measurements with one UVB LED, which was previously evaluated on pig ear skin. Here we present the results of a systematic in vivo study using 12 sunscreens on 10 volunteers (skin types [ST] I-III). The relationship of the UVB-LED reflectance of unprotected skin and melanin index was determined for each ST. The spatial variation of the reflectance signal of different positions was analyzed and seems to be mainly influenced by sample inhomogeneity except for high-protection factors (PFs) where signal levels are close to detection noise. Despite the low-signal levels, a correlation of the measured LED-based UVB PF with SPF reference values from test institutes with R² = 0.57 is obtained, suggesting a strong relationship of SPF and LED-based UVB-PF. Measured PFs tend to be lower for increasing skin pigmentation. The sensor design seems to be suitable for investigations where a fast measurement of relative changes of PFs, such as due to inhomogeneous application, bathing and sweating, is of interest.

Retaining Skin Barrier Function Properties of the Stratum Corneum with Components of the Natural Moisturizing Factor-A Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Double-Blind In Vivo Study

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Characterization of radical types, penetration profile and distribution pattern of the topically applied photosensitizer THPTS in porcine skin ex vivo

The topical photodynamic therapy (PDT) is mainly used in the treatment of dermato-oncological diseases. The distribution and functionality of the photosensitizer Tetrahydroporphyrin-Tetratosylat (THPTS) was investigated using microscopic and spectroscopic methods after topical application to excised porcine skin followed by irradiation. The distribution of THPTS was determined by two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPT/FLIM) and confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM). The radicals were quantified and characterized by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. Results show a penetration depth of THPTS into the skin down to around 12 ± 5 µm. A penetration of THPTS through the stratum corneum was not clearly observable after 1 h penetration time, but cannot be excluded. The irradiation within the phototherapeutic window (spectral range of visible and near infrared light in the range ≈ 650-850 nm) is needed to activate THPTS. An incubation time of 10 min showed the highest radical production. A longer incubation time affected the functionality of THPTS, whereby significant less radicals were detectable. During PDT mainly reactive oxygen species (ROS) and lipid oxygen species (LOS) are produced. Overall, the irradiation dose per se influences the radical types formed in skin. While ROS are always prominent at low doses, LOS increase at high doses, independent of previous skin treatment and the irradiation wavelength used.

Release of the model drug SR101 from polyurethane nanocapsules in porcine hair follicles triggered by LED-derived low dose UVA light

Hair follicles (HFs) are important drug delivery targets for the therapy of miscellaneous skin diseases and for skin antisepsis. Furthermore, HFs significantly contribute to drug delivery of topically applied substances. Nanoparticulate systems are excellently suited for follicular drug delivery as they entail the opportunity of directed drug transport into HFs. Moreover, they involve the possibility of an intrafollicular drug release initiated by extrinsic or intrinsic trigger mechanisms. In this study, we present a novel preclinical model for an anatomically and temporally targeted intrafollicular drug release. In vitro release kinetics of the model drug sulforhodamine 101 (SR101) from newly synthesized ultraviolet A (UVA)-responsive polyurethane nanocapsules (NCs) were investigated by fluorescence spectroscopy. Low power density UVA radiation provided by a UVA light emitting diode (LED) induced a drug release of over 50% after 2 min. We further utilized confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM) to investigate follicular penetration as well as intrafollicular drug release on an ex vivo porcine ear skin model. UVA-responsive degradation of the NCs at a mean follicular penetration depth of 509 ± 104 µm ensured liberation of SR101 in the right place and at the right time. Thus, for the first time a UVA-triggered drug release from NCs within HFs was demonstrated in the present study. Cytotoxicity tests revealed that NCs synthesized with isophorone diisocyanate show sufficient biocompatibility after UVA-induced cleavage. A considerable and controllable release of various water-soluble therapeutics could be reached by means of the presented system without risking any radiation-related tissue damage. Therefore, the implementation of the presented system into clinical routine, e.g. for preoperative antisepsis of HFs, appears very promising.

In vivo sun protection factor and UVA protection factor determination using (hybrid) diffuse reflectance spectroscopy and a multi-lambda-LED light source

The sun protection factor (SPF) values are currently determined using an invasive procedure, in which the volunteers are irradiated with ultraviolet (UV) light. Non-invasive approaches based on hybrid diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (HDRS) have shown a good correlation with conventional SPF testing. Here, we present a novel compact and adjustable DRS test system. The in vivo measurements were performed using a multi-lambda-LED light source and an 84-channel imaging spectrograph with a fiber optic probe for detection. A transmission spectrum was calculated based on the reflectance measured with sunscreen and the reflectance measured without sunscreen. The preexposure in vitro spectrum was fitted to the in vivo spectrum. Each of the 11 test products was investigated on 10 volunteers. The SPF and UVA-PF values obtained by this new approach were compared with in vivo SPF results determined by certified test institutes. A correlation coefficient R² = 0.86 for SPF, and R² = 0.92 for UVA-PF were calculated. Having examined various approaches to apply the HDRS principle, the method we present was found to produce valid and reproducible results, suggesting that the multi-lambda-LED device is suitable for in-vivo SPF testing based on the HDRS principle as well as for in-vivo UVA-PF measurements.

Fiber-based SORS-SERDS system and chemometrics for the diagnostics and therapy monitoring of psoriasis inflammatory disease in vivo

Psoriasis is considered a widespread dermatological disease that can strongly affect the quality of life. Currently, the treatment is continued until the skin surface appears clinically healed. However, lesions appearing normal may contain modifications in deeper layers. To terminate the treatment too early can highly increase the risk of relapses. Therefore, techniques are needed for a better knowledge of the treatment process, especially to detect the lesion modifications in deeper layers. In this study, we developed a fiber-based SORS-SERDS system in combination with machine learning algorithms to non-invasively determine the treatment efficiency of psoriasis. The system was designed to acquire Raman spectra from three different depths into the skin, which provide rich information about the skin modifications in deeper layers. This way, it is expected to prevent the occurrence of relapses in case of a too short treatment. The method was verified with a study of 24 patients upon their two visits: the data is acquired at the beginning of a standard treatment (visit 1) and four months afterwards (visit 2). A mean sensitivity of ≥85% was achieved to distinguish psoriasis from normal skin at visit 1. At visit 2, where the patients were healed according to the clinical appearance, the mean sensitivity was ≈65%.

Switching from healthy to unhealthy oxidative stress - does the radical type can be used as an indicator?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation leads to the formation of free radicals, which may cause immunological modulations, skin aging or skin cancer. Sunlight exposure in the UVA region according to CIE 85 promotes almost 46% of radical formation in skin. A critical radical concentration characterized by the inversion of the domination of primary ROS (reactive oxygen species) to an excess of secondary LOS (lipid oxygen species) is proven for the spectral regions UV and or VIS light and is intended to be a marker for an imbalance in the redox system, which can no longer compensate harmful effects. To investigate whether this transition point is also universally valid for one spectral region, the radical formation during and after targeted UVA in situ-irradiation at 365 ± 5 nm and three different irradiances (31, 94 and 244 mW/cm²) was investigated in ex vivo porcine skin using x-band electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy. The quantification was performed with the spin probe 3-(carboxy)-2,2,5,5-tetramethylpyrrolidin-1-oxyl (PCA), the spin trap 5,5-Dimethyl-1-Pyrroline-N-Oxide (DMPO) was used to characterize the radical species. Furthermore, the viability of the skin cells after irradiation was controlled by an MTT [3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide] assay, skin integrity was examined by histological analysis. A significant dose dependence in the radical formation is given at higher irradiance. The transition point was detected in the range of 0.5 MED after irradiation with the highest irradiance. From this point on the proportion of LOS increases with increasing dose and the proportion of ROS decreases. After switching off the UVA irradiation no further quantitative changes were detected, but rapid changes in the radical pattern were observed demonstrating the importance of in situ irradiation during the use of spin traps. Heat-pre-stressed skin showed more LOS than ROS already at the beginning of the irradiation, leading to the assumption that the transition point to the distress-level has already been reached. In summary, a postulated transition point could be verified for the UVA spectral region using only one spin trap combined with in-situ irradiation. A certain degree of stress is necessary to detect an inversion of the ratio of ROS to LOS. This reversal indicates an imbalance in the redox status. However, at low intensities no changes at all in radical pattern appeared over time (dose), probably it can be compensated by adaptation processes of the skin.

The impact of skin massage frequency on the intrafollicular transport of silica nanoparticles: Validation of the ratchet effect on an ex vivo porcine skin model

The human hair follicle (HF) represents a promising drug delivery target as an anatomical entity by itself, but also as a gateway enabling dermal or systemic bioavailability of active cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients. Due to its morphological characteristics, the HF provides a mechanically driven transport process of nanoparticles (NPs) when external forces are applied. This mechanism was presented as the so-called ratchet effect within the framework of an in silico study published recently. To investigate the influence of massage frequency on the penetration depth of NPs, and, by this, to validate the results obtained in silico, we implemented a corresponding application protocol on an ex vivo porcine skin model. In this connection, we compared three different skin massage frequencies (4.2 Hz, 50 Hz, 100 Hz) for the topical application of cyanine 5-labeled silica NPs (Cy5-SNPs). To elucidate the interplay of frequency and particle size, we furthermore applied Cy5-SNPs of three different diameters (300 nm, 676 nm, 1000 nm). Confocal laser scanning microscopy was utilized to investigate the follicular penetration depth of Cy5-SNPs on cryohistological slices. By this, we could demonstrate that the massage frequency and the follicular penetration depth exhibit an inverse relation pattern. Thus, the highest follicular penetration depth was observed within the 4.2 Hz group, while the lowest follicular penetration depth was found within the 100 Hz group for each Cy5-SNP size category. Additionally, we found that 676 nm Cy5-SNPs penetrated significantly deeper into HFs than 300 nm Cy5-SNPs and 1000 nm Cy5-SNPs, respectively. Summarizing, our results show that a low massage frequency including a dominant radial direction component leads to deeper follicular penetration depths of NPs than automated 3D-oscillation massage at 50 Hz or 100 Hz. Thus, our findings are in line with recent in silico results. Regarding translational purposes, our results are of high interest, since a massage executed at 250BPM (4.2 Hz) is within a realizable range for manual application, e.g. for the implementation into clinical routines or the domestic use of drugs or cosmetics. Furthermore, the application of different massage frequencies offers the opportunity of patho-specific targeting as different anatomical parts of the HF can be reached.

Investigation of transfollicular caffeine penetration using microdialysis on ex vivo porcine ear skin

The aim of this study was to develop an ex vivo method that allows to quantify the transfollicular penetration of topically applied substances by combining microdialysis and selective follicular closure with varnish. An experimental setup with three skin areas on ex vivo intact porcine ear skin was designed (varnish on hair follicle, varnish next to hair follicle, no varnish). On each area, 10 µl/cm² caffeine-hydroxyethyl-cellulose-gel was applied. Samples were collected for 22 h by microdialysis. After sampling, the skin layers were separated, homogenized and caffeine was quantified by high pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) in all samples. Potential impact of the varnish placed next to the follicle by tension on the follicle during the drying process was monitored by a microscopic setup and could be excluded. The microdialysis and homogenization study showed a significantly reduced penetration of caffeine when the hair follicles were closed. In areas with open hair follicles caffeine was detected already in the first ten minutes after application. The reported novel combination of two methods is suitable to investigate ex vivo transfollicular penetration. Possible impact of the closure material in the control area can be ruled out by adjusting the design of the control area in future studies.

In vivo non-invasive staining-free visualization of dermal mast cells in healthy, allergy and mastocytosis humans using two-photon fluorescence lifetime imaging

Mast cells (MCs) are multifunctional cells of the immune system and are found in skin and all major tissues of the body. They contribute to the pathology of several diseases including urticaria, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and mastocytosis where they are increased at lesional sites. Histomorphometric analysis of skin biopsies serves as a routine method for the assessment of MC numbers and their activation status, which comes with major limitations. As of now, non-invasive techniques to study MCs in vivo are not available. Here, we describe a label-free imaging technique to visualize MCs and their activation status in the human papillary dermis in vivo. This technique uses two-photon excited fluorescence lifetime imaging (TPE-FLIM) signatures, which are different for MCs and other dermal components. TPE-FLIM allows for the visualization and quantification of dermal MCs in healthy subjects and patients with skin diseases. Moreover, TPE-FLIM can differentiate between two MC populations in the papillary dermis in vivo-resting and activated MCs with a sensitivity of 0.81 and 0.87 and a specificity of 0.85 and 0.84, respectively. Results obtained on healthy volunteers and allergy and mastocytosis patients indicate the existence of other MC subpopulations within known resting and activated MC populations. The developed method may become an important tool for non-invasive in vivo diagnostics and therapy control in dermatology and immunology, which will help to better understand pathomechanisms involving MC accumulation, activation and degranulation and to characterize the effects of therapies that target MCs.

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state: a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

OBJECTIVE

It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown.

METHODS

The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated.

RESULTS

A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin.

CONCLUSION

The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.

Electrohydrodynamic spray applicator for homogenous application and reduced overspray of sunscreen

BACKGROUND

The recommended amount of sunscreen by hand application (2 mg/cm² ) is in reality not achieved, which decreases the homogeneity and thereby the effective sun protection factor (SPF).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The homogeneity of sunscreen applied by a newly developed spray applicator using an electrostatically charged aerosol, for which a hand rubbing of the formulation is not necessary, is evaluated. In vivo experiments were performed on the volar forearms of human volunteers using the spray applicator compared to the standardized hand application according to ISO 24444.

RESULTS

The distribution homogeneity was assessed qualitatively using in vivo laser scanning microscopy and quantitatively by absorption spectroscopy after tape stripping and by the standard deviation of multiple spatially displaced reflectance measurements for non-invasive SPF determination below the minimal erythemal dose, which showed a significantly higher homogeneity by 20.9% after spray application compared to hand application.

CONCLUSION

Non-invasive SPF determination of multiple spatially displaced reflectance measurements was proven to be a suitable method for the non-invasive determination of the sunscreen distribution homogeneity. Electrostatically charged spray application increased the sunscreen distribution homogeneity on the skin and can reduce the amount of overspray.

Response to comment by Puppels et al. on "A modification for the calculation of water depth profiles in oil-treated skin by in vivo Raman microscopy"

The presence of penetrated oils in the stratum corneum (SC), oil-induced occlusion of the SC and formation of occluding homogeneous film on the skin surface are discussed in relation to their influence on results of water profile calculations using conventional and newly proposed extended methods. It is shown that the conventional method does not determine the water profiles in treated skin correctly due to the superposition of Raman bands of SC's proteins and penetrated and remnant oils.

Consumption of fruits and vegetables: improved physical health, mental health, physical functioning and cognitive health in older adults from 11 European countries

Objective: Regular consumption of fruits and vegetables has been found to contribute to physical health and physical functioning. However, health is not limited to the absence of physical diseases but also encompasses mental health and cognition. Thus, we wanted to examine how the consumption of fruit and vegetables is associated with overall health, including mental health and cognitive health of older European adults.Design: We used multilevel regression analysis (participants nested within countries) to examine the effects of nutrition on overall health. Participants were asked in 2011 about their health behaviour including nutritional habits. Several health outcomes were measured longitudinally in 2013: Self-rated health, grip strength, instrumental activities of daily living (IADL), activities of daily living (ADL), mobility, depression, quality of life, short-term memory, and long-term memory.Setting: We used the 2011 and 2013 waves of the Survey of Health, Ageing and Retirement in Europe (SHARE), a multi-national population survey of older adults.Subjects:N = 22,635 older adults were sampled from 11 European countries.Results: Frequent consumption of fruits and vegetables is associated with improved health outcomes, including cognitive and mental health.Conclusions: Frequent consumption of fruits and vegetables contributes to slower disablement processes and might be an easily implementable way to improve the overall health of older adults. Future studies should examine the cross-national differences in the observed effects.

Application of parelectric spectroscopy to detect skin cancer-A pilot study

BACKGROUND

The early detection of skin cancer is still challenging and calls for objective, fast diagnostic, and ideally non-invasive methods in order to leave the potentially malignant tumor cells unaltered. In this paper, the parelectric spectroscopy was applied to evaluate the potential of a non-invasive detection of basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and malignant melanoma.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A prototype of parelectric spectroscopy was used to investigate non-invasively dipole density and mobility of suspicious skin lesions. The differences in investigated tissue were analyzed compared to pathohistological findings in a clinical study on 51 patients with suspected BCC and malignant melanoma.

RESULTS

The non-invasive parelectric spectroscopy could differentiate between normal skin, BCC, and melanoma but failed to distinguish between different types of skin cancer. The data were normalized to unsuspected nearby skin because the different skin locations influence dipole density and mobility.

CONCLUSION

The results of the pilot study indicate that the parelectric spectroscopy might be an additional, useful non-invasive diagnostic procedure to distinguish between normal skin and skin cancer.

Solvent-Containing Closure Material Can Be Used to Prevent Follicular Penetration of Caffeine and Fluorescein Sodium Salt on Porcine Ear Skin

AIM

The skin represents a drug delivery portal. The establishment of a skin model capable of distinguishing between the follicular and intercellular penetration pathways remains a challenge. The study described herein was aimed at showing the influence of two nail varnishes as closure material and four application techniques to spread the active pharmaceutical ingredient (API) on a successful follicular closure without inducing penetration-enhancing effects.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

For all experiments, ex vivo porcine ear skin was used. In study design A, a standard and a solvent-free nail varnish were compared. It was tested whether the different application techniques (spreading with pipette, careful finger massage, 5-Hz finger massage, 5-Hz automatic massage) potentially destroy an intact follicular closure. Laser scanning microscopy imaging was used to measure if the model drug (fluorescein sodium salt) penetrated into the hair follicles. Study design B investigated how the penetration is affected when applying standard nail varnish containing solvents to skin. It was tested if the varnish blocks the API (caffeine) on completely covered areas and if adjacent areas show increased penetration. Furthermore, lateral diffusion of the API was investigated. After 20 h, the skin layers were separated by tape stripping and heat separation. The tissue samples were homogenized. Caffeine was quantified by chromatography.

RESULTS

In study design A, the standard nail varnish showed a secure follicular closure, while the solvent-free nail varnish was not able to prevent follicular penetration. Moreover, rapid application techniques were found to destroy an intact follicular closure. Only the two most gentle application techniques kept the follicular closing intact. In study design B, no caffeine was detected in both skin areas that were completely covered. Since no significant difference in caffeine penetration between the two uncovered groups was found, any influence of the applied closure material on adjacent areas was excluded.

CONCLUSION

This study clearly demonstrates that a standard nail varnish in combination with a gentle application technique of the API provides a secure follicular closure. The presented study only investigated the closure for the substances caffeine and fluorescein sodium salt. The results might not be transferable to all kinds of APIs.

Investigation of TEMPO partitioning in different skin models as measured by EPR spectroscopy - Insight into the stratum corneum

Electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy represents an established tool to study properties of microenvironments, e.g. to investigate the structure and dynamics of biological and artificial membranes. In this study, the partitioning of the spin probe 2,2,6,6-tetramethylpiperidine-1-oxyl (TEMPO) in ex vivo human abdominal and breast skin, ex vivo porcine abdominal and ear skin as well as normal and inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents was investigated by EPR spectroscopy. Furthermore, the stratum corneum (SC) lipid composition (as determined by high-performance thin-layer chromatography), SC lipid chain order (probed by infrared spectroscopy) and the SC thickness (investigated by histology) were determined in the skin models. X-band EPR measurements have shown that TEMPO partitions in the lipophilic and hydrophilic microenvironment in varying ratios in different ex vivo and in vitro skin models. Ex vivo human abdominal skin exhibited the highest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment. In contrast, the lowest amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was determined in ex vivo human breast skin and the inflammatory in vitro skin equivalents. Individual EPR spectra of epidermis including SC and dermis indicated that the lipophilic microenvironment of TEMPO mainly corresponds to the most lipophilic part of the epidermis, the SC. The amount of TEMPO in the lipophilic microenvironment was independent of the SC lipid composition and the SC lipid chain order but correlated with the SC thickness. In conclusion, EPR spectroscopy could be a novel technique to determine differences in the SC thickness, thus suitably complementing existing methods.

A modification for the calculation of water depth profiles in oil-treated skin by in vivo confocal Raman microscopy

In this study, an extended calculation method for the determination of the water profiles in oil-treated skin is proposed, which is based on the calculation of the ratio between the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm^-1 ) and keratin Amide I at 1650 cm^-1 . The proposed method is compared with the conventional method based on the ratio of the Raman band intensities of water (3350-3550 cm^-1 ) and keratin at 2930 cm^-1 . The conventional method creates artifacts in the depth profiles of the water concentration in oil-treated skin, showing a lower amount of water in the upper and intermediate layers of the stratum corneum, which is due to the superposition of oil- and keratin-related Raman bands at 2930 cm^-1 . The proposed extended method shows no artifacts and has the potential to determine the water depth profiles after topical application of formulations on the skin.

Barrier-disrupted skin: Quantitative analysis of tape and cyanoacrylate stripping efficiency by multiphoton tomography

Numerous studies have employed tape stripping (TS) or cyanoacrylate stripping (CS) to induce skin barrier disruption of the stratum corneum (SC) in human and porcine skin. However, the thickness of the remaining SC and the respective changes of the skin permeability have been rarely quantified. By using high-resolution multiphoton tomography, about 5 µm thick SC was found remaining on human skin after the performance of 30 times TS or 2 times CS. 50 tape strips or 4 times CS removed the entire human SC, but on porcine skin 2-3 µm thick SC was still left. TS can only reach the transition zone between the SC and the stratum granulosum because of the limited adhesion, whereas CS was able to remove viable skin layers. Permeation investigations on porcine skin revealed that the apparent permeability coefficient of the hydrophilic nitroxide spin 2,5,5-Tetramethyl-1-pyrrolidinyloxy-3-carboxylic acid increased 15-, 18-, and 21-fold when the SC amount remaining in the skin was 30%, 16%, and 8%, respectively. It is recommended to use at most 30 times TS or 3 times CS to obtain ex vivo barrier-disrupted skin that mimics diseased skin. The study provides quantitative information for the utility of TS and CS in skin penetration research.

High-energy visible light at ambient doses and intensities induces oxidative stress of skin-Protective effects of the antioxidant and Nrf2 inducer Licochalcone A in vitro and in vivo

BACKGROUND

Solar radiation causes skin damage through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). While UV filters effectively reduce UV-induced ROS, they cannot prevent VIS-induced (400-760 nm) oxidative stress. Therefore, potent antioxidants are needed as additives to sunscreen products.

METHODS

We investigated VIS-induced ROS formation and the photoprotective effects of the Nrf2 inducer Licochalcone A (LicA).

RESULTS

Visible spectrum of 400-500 nm dose-dependently induced ROS in cultured human fibroblasts at doses equivalent to 1 hour of sunshine on a sunny summer day (150 J/cm² ). A pretreatment for 24 hours with 1 µmol/L LicA reduced ROS formation to the level of unirradiated cells while UV filters alone were ineffective, even at SPF50+. In vivo, topical treatment with a LicA-containing SPF50 + formulation significantly prevented the depletion of intradermal carotenoids by VIS irradiation while SPF50 + control did not protect.

CONCLUSION

LicA may be a useful additive antioxidant for sunscreens.

In vivo Tracking of DNA for Precise Determination of the Stratum Corneum Thickness and Superficial Microbiome Using Confocal Raman Microscopy

The skin barrier function is mostly provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the epidermis. To noninvasively analyze the physiological properties of the skin barrier functionin vivo, it is important to determine the SC thickness. Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) is widely used for this task. In the present in vivo study, a new method based on the determination of the DNA concentration profile using CRM is introduced for determining the SC thickness. The obtained SC thickness values are compared with those obtained using other CRM-based methods determining the water and lipid depth profiles. The obtained results show almost no significant differences in SC thickness for the utilized methods. Therefore, the results indicate that it is possible to calculate the SC thickness by using the DNA profile in the fingerprint region, which is comparable with the SC thickness calculated by the water depth profiles (ANOVA test p = 0.77) and the lipid depth profile (ANOVA test p = 0.74). This provides the possibility to measure the SC thickness by using the DNA profile, in case the water or lipid profile analyses are influenced by a topically applied formulation. The increase in DNA concentration in the superficial SC (0-2 µm) is related to the DNA presence in the microbiome of the skin, which was not present in the SC depth below 4 µm.

Label-Free Multiphoton Microscopy: The Origin of Fluorophores and Capabilities for Analyzing Biochemical Processes

Multiphoton microscopy (MPM) is a method of molecular imaging and specifically of intravital imaging that is characterized by high spatial resolution in combination with a greater depth of penetration into the tissue. MPM is a multimodal method based on detection of nonlinear optical signals - multiphoton fluorescence and optical harmonics - and also allows imaging with the use of the parameters of fluorescence decay kinetics. This review describes and discusses photophysical processes within major reporter molecules used in MPM with endogenous contrasts and summarizes several modern experiments that illustrate the capabilities of label-free MPM for molecular imaging of biochemical processes in connective tissue and cells.

Methods for Optical Skin Clearing in Molecular Optical Imaging in Dermatology

This short review describes recent progress in using optical clearing (OC) technique in skin studies. Optical clearing is an efficient tool for enhancing the probing depth and data quality in multiphoton microscopy and Raman spectroscopy. Here, we discuss the main mechanisms of OC, its safety, advantages, and limitations. The data on the OC effect on the skin water content are presented. It was demonstrated that 70% glycerol and 100% Omnipaque^TM 300 reduce the water content in the skin. Both OC agents (OCAs) significantly affect the strongly bound and weakly bound water. However, Omnipaque^TM 300 causes considerably less skin dehydration than glycerol. In addition, the results of examination of the OC effect on autofluorescence in two-photon excitation and background fluorescence in Raman scattering at different skin depths are presented. It is shown that Omnipaque^TM 300 is a promising OCA due to its ability to reduce background fluorescence in the upper skin layers. The possibility of multimodal imaging combining optical methods and OC technique is discussed.

Non-invasive depth profiling of the stratum corneum in vivo using confocal Raman microscopy considering the non-homogeneous distribution of keratin

Confocal Raman microscopy has a number of advantages in investigating the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo and ex vivo. The penetration profiles of xenobiotics in the SC, as well as depth profiles of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as the concentration of water depending on the strength of hydrogen bonds, total water concentration, the hydrogen bonding state of water molecules, concentration of intercellular lipids, the lamellar and lateral packing order of intercellular lipids, the concentration of natural moisturizing factor molecules, carotenoids, and the secondary and tertiary structure properties of keratin are well investigated. To consider the depth-dependent Raman signal attenuation, in most cases a normalization procedure is needed, which uses the main SC's protein keratin-related Raman peaks, based on the assumption that keratin is homogeneously distributed in the SC. We found that this assumption is not accurate for the bottom part of the SC, where the water concentration is considerably increased, thus, reducing the presence of keratin. Our results demonstrate that the bottom part of the SC depth profile should be multiplied by 0.94 in average in order to match this non-homogeneity, which result in a decrease of the uncorrected values in these depths. The correctly normalized depth profiles of the concentration of lipids, water, natural moisturizing factor and carotenoids are presented in this work. The obtained results should be taken into consideration in future skin research using confocal Raman microscopy.

Hydrogen bound water profiles in the skin influenced by optical clearing molecular agents-Quantitative analysis using confocal Raman microscopy

Confocal Raman microscopy has been used to measure depth-dependent profiles of porcine skin ex vivo in the high wavenumber region after application of molecular optical clearing agents (OCAs). Glycerol (70%) and iohexol (100% Omnipaque [300]) water solutions were used as OCAs and topically applied to porcine ear skin for 30 and 60 minutes. Using Gaussian function-based deconvolution, the changes of hydrogen bound water molecule types have been microscopically analyzed down to the depth of 200 μm. Results show that both OCAs induced skin dehydration (reduction of total water), which is 51.3% for glycerol (60 minutes), 33.1% for glycerol (30 minutes), 8.3% for Omnipaque (60 minutes) and 4.4% for Omnipaque (30 minutes), on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths. Among the water types in the skin, the following reduction was observed in concentration of weakly bound (51.1%, 33.2%, 7.5% and 4.6%), strongly bound (50.4%, 33.0%, 7.9% and 3.4%), tightly bound (63.6%, 42.3%, 26.1% and 12.9%) and unbound (55.4%, 28.7%, 10.1% and 5.9%) water types on average for the 40 to 200 μm depths, post application of glycerol (60 minutes), glycerol (30 minutes), Omnipaque (60 minutes) and Omnipaque (30 minutes), respectively. As most concentrated in the skin, weakly and strongly bound water types are preferentially involved in the OCA-induced water flux in the skin, and thus, are responsible for optical clearing efficiency.

Increasing the percutaneous absorption and follicular penetration of retinal by topical application of proretinal nanoparticles

Topical retinoids are frequently applied for therapeutic and cosmeceutical reasons although their bioavailability is low due to their chemical and photochemical instability. Moreover, skin irritation is a common side effect. Therefore, proretinal nanoparticles (PRN) as a novel formulation of topical retinoids, which are based on chitosan grafted with retinal through reversible linkage, were developed and their skin penetration behavior was studied. As nanoparticles preferably penetrate into the hair follicles, the follicular penetration depths of PRN at different time points were investigated. Moreover, the release capacity of the nanoparticulate system was studied using fluorescein as a model drug. Additionally, the concentration of retinal in the stratum corneum and in the hair follicles was quantified after application in particulate and non-particulate form. The results showed that the nanocarriers reached the infundibular area of the hair follicles, irrespective of the incubation time. The nanoparticles were able to release their model drug within the hair follicle. The retinal concentration delivered to the stratum corneum and the hair follicles was significantly higher when retinal was applied in the particulate form. In conclusion, the presented proretinal nanoparticle system may help to overcome the main problems of topical retinoid therapy, which are skin irritation, chemical and photochemical instability and low bioavailability, thus improving the topical retinoid therapy.

Influence of polyester spacer fabric, cotton, chloroprene rubber, and silicone on microclimatic and morphologic physiologic skin parameters in vivo

BACKGROUND

Skin diseases can develop upon disadvantageous microclimate in relation to skin contact with textiles of supporting devices. Increased temperature, moisture, mechanical fracture, pressure, and inflammatory processes often occur mutually and enhance each other in their adverse effects. Therefore, the early prevention of skin irritations by improvement of microclimatic properties of skin in contact with supporting devices is important.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

In this study, the microclimate under occlusion with polyester, cotton, chloroprene rubber, and silicone textiles, used for supporting devices, was analyzed by determining several characteristic physiologic skin parameters in vivo, including temperature, moisture, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This is achieved by comparing a miniaturized in vivo detection device with several established optical and sensory methods in vivo.

RESULTS

A highly significant TEWL decrease was found after polyester, chloroprene rubber, and silicone application. The application of all materials showed highly significant decrease in skin surface temperature, with chloroprene rubber showing the lowest. Similarly, all materials showed highly significant increase in relative moisture, where the highest increase was found for chloroprene rubber and silicone and the lowest increase for cotton. The cutaneous carotenoid concentration of chloroprene rubber, silicone, and polyester decreased. A manipulation of the surface structure of the stratum corneum was recognized for all materials except for cotton by laser scanning microscopy.

CONCLUSION

The skin parameters temperature, relative moisture, antioxidant status, and TEWL can effectively characterize the microclimatic environment during occlusion with medical supporting materials. These parameters could potentially be used to develop standardized testing procedures for material evaluation.

Quantification and characterization of radical production in human, animal and 3D skin models during sun irradiation measured by EPR spectroscopy

Sun radiation is indispensable to our health, however, a long term and high exposure could lead to erythema, premature skin aging and promotion of skin tumors. An underlying pathomechanism is the formation of free radicals. First, reactive oxygen species (*OH, *O₂^-) and then, secondary lipid oxygen species (C centered radicals, CCR) are formed. A high amount of free radicals results in oxidative stress with subsequent cell damage. In dermatological research different skin models are used, however, comparative data about the cutaneous radical formation are missing. In this study, the radical formation in porcine-, (SKH-1) murine-, human- ex vivo skin and reconstructed human skin (RHS) were investigated during simulated sun irradiation (305-2200 nm), with X-band EPR spectroscopy. The amount of radical formation was investigated with the spin probe PCA exposed to a moderate sun dose below one minimal erythema dose (MED, ~25 mJ/cm² UVB) in all skin models. Furthermore, the *OH and *CCR radical concentrations were measured with the spin trap DMPO within 0-4 MED (porcine-, human skin and RHS). The highest amount of radicals was found in RHS followed by murine and porcine, and the lowest amount in human ex vivo skin. In all skin models, more *OH than CCR radicals were found at 0-4 MED. Additionally, this work addresses the limitations in the characterization with the spin trap DMPO. The measurements have shown that the most comparable skin model to in vivo human skin could differ depending on the focus of the investigation. If the amount of radial production is regarded, RHS seems to be in a similar range like in vivo human skin. If the investigation is focused on the radical type, porcine skin is most comparable to ex vivo human skin, at an irradiation dose not exceeding 1 MED. Here, no comparison to in vivo human skin is possible.

Influence of Storage and Preservation Techniques on Egg-Derived Carotenoids: A Substantial Source for Cutaneous Antioxidants

Antioxidants like carotenoids play a major role in the prevention of the destructive influence of free radicals in our skin. Carotenoids, as well as all other antioxidants, are substantial substances which must be supplied by nutrition. Resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS) allows measurement of the carotenoid content of eggs, representing a rich carotenoid source in our nutrition. A previous study showed that eggs from organic production contain higher carotenoid levels in contrast to eggs from conventionally housed chicken. The uptake of these organically produced eggs led to an increased antioxidant concentration in the skin. In this study, the effects of different storage modalities, conservation techniques, and the effects of food processing on the carotenoid levels in eggs were investigated with RRS. Common storage modalities and preservation techniques showed only a limited influence on egg-derived carotenoid concentrations. However, a colder environment (at least for shell eggs) and high-pressure preservation had the best preservative influence on the carotenoid content. Surprisingly, food processing such as boiling increased the carotenoid concentration in eggs, whilst broiling destroyed the carotenoids almost completely. In conclusion, RRS is suitable for monitoring egg-derived carotenoid levels, and carotenoid levels in eggs are generally stable under common storage and preservation modalities. Boiling in contrast to broiling of eggs might be superior in terms of carotenoid preservation within food processing.

Confocal Raman microscopy combined with optical clearing for identification of inks in multicolored tattooed skin in vivo

Raman measurements applied on freshly tattooed porcine skin ex vivo showed a possibility of obtaining the ink pigment related information in the skin. Based on these results, confocal Raman microscopy was used to identify the tattoo ink pigments of different colors in multicolored tattooed human skin in vivo. The Raman signatures of tattoo ink pigments were unique. Therefore, it could be shown that the applied method is successful for the identification of the tattoo ink pigments in human skin in vivo down to depths of approx. 50 μm, which is sufficient to screen the entire epidermis and the top of the papillary dermis area on the forearm and leg skin sites. Additional application of the optical clearing technique in vivo by topical application of glycerol, combined with tape stripping removal of the uppermost stratum corneum layers and defatting allows the extension of depths of investigation in tattooed skin down to approx. 400 μm, i.e. to cover the entire papillary dermis and a large part of the reticular dermis. Thus, the tattoo ink pigments were identified in vivo and depth-dependently in human tattooed skin confirming their presence in the papillary and reticular dermis. The proposed non-invasive in vivo Raman screening combined with optical clearing for identifying the tattoo pigments in the dermis can be an important task preceding a laser-based tattoo removal procedure and for determining the optimal laser parameters.