EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods

Sex differences regarding the amelioration of wrinkles due to skin dryness by the administration of tranexamic acid

Tranexamic acid (trans-4-aminomethylcyclohexanecarboxylic acid) exerts an amelioration effect on wrinkle formation due to skin dryness. We examined the sex differences in this effect. We administered tranexamic acid (750mg/kg/day) orally for 20 consecutive days to male and female Naruto Research Institute Otsuka Atrichia (NOA) mice, which naturally develop skin dryness. In the treated female mice, the amelioration effect on the wrinkle score, deterioration of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), capacitance, and decrease in the expression of collagen type I was stronger than in the male treated mice. Furthermore, the level of β-endorphin in the plasma and the expression of β-endorphin, μ-opioid receptor, and macrophages in the dorsal skin increased after the administration of tranexamic acid, and this increase was higher in female mice than in males. In addition, the macrophage production was increased by the administration of tranexamic acid in the ovary but did not change after administration in the testes. A histological examination revealed that these macrophages produce the β-endorphin, clarifying the source of the elevated levels. The amelioration effect in the female treated mice was decreased by the administration of clophosome (a macrophage inhibitor) to a degree that did not markedly differ from the effect observed in the male treated mice. These results suggest that the amelioration effect on wrinkles is stronger in female NOA mice than in males and that β-endorphin produced by macrophages plays an important role in this sex difference.

A fundamental investigation into aspects of the physiology and biochemistry of the stratum corneum in subjects with sensitive skin

BACKGROUND

Sensitive skin is a poorly understood skin condition. Defects in stratum corneum (SC) barrier function and/or extrasensory neuronal networks in the epidermis are believed to be involved in the problem.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to unravel the relationships between bleomycin hydrolase (BH) and calpain-1 (C-1), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) levels, corneocyte maturation, transglutaminase (TG) and plasmin activities on the cheeks of subjects with sensitive skin.

METHODS

Forty-eight female Caucasian subjects, Fitzpatrick skin phototypes II-III, with self-perceived sensitive facial skin, were assessed and underwent a capsaicin reactivity test. Expert grading of skin condition was conducted as well as the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin capacitance, SC cohesion and SC integrity. BH, C-1 and plasmin activities were measured as well as PCA levels, plasmin and TG activity. Differential Nile red and involucrin immunostaining was performed to assess corneocyte maturation and size.

RESULTS

About 52% of the subjects reacted to capsaicin. There were no significant differences between the capsaicin-sensitive and non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects with reference to skin grading, TEWL, skin capacitance and SC cohesion. PCA levels and BH activity were lowest in the capsaicin-sensitive panel (P < 0.05) and were correlated in non-capsaicin-sensitive subjects (r = 0.72). The activity of TG was significantly lower (48%) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects (P < 0.001) and their corneocytes were less mature and smaller (P ≤ 0.05). SC was estimated to be thinner (6.87 ± 0.28 vs. 8.68 ± 0.26 μm; P = 0.001) in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects with a corresponding shorter SC path length (83.2 ± 4.4 μm and 113.1 ± 4.5 μm; P = 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

Despite the physiological similarities between the two groups of sensitive skin subjects, differences in their biochemistry were clearly evident. Lower levels of PCA, BH and TG activities together with a greater number of smaller and immature corneocytes indicate inferior SC maturation in the capsaicin-sensitive subjects. The reduced maturation of corneocytes and thinner SC likely contributes to a greater penetration of capsaicin and the associated increased skin sensitivity.

Skin disruption is associated with indomethacin-induced small intestinal injury in mice

One mechanism by which non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) cause intestinal injury is by inducing matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade and remodel the extracellular matrix. In addition to the intestinal mucosa, MMPs are expressed in the skin and can be activated by mast cell-secreted tryptase. We therefore investigated whether intestinal injury resulting from treatment with the NSAID indomethacin induced MMPs in the skin of mice and caused an associated disruption of skin function. Hairless mice and mast cell-deficient mice were administered indomethacin, after which damage to the jejuna and skin was assessed with immunohistochemistry and Western blotting. The plasma concentration of inflammatory mediators was assessed to evaluate potential pathways for signalling skin disruption in response to intestinal injury. In hairless mice with intestinal injury, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was higher and skin hydration was lower than in control mice. The expression levels of mast cells, tryptase, MMP-1 and MMP-9 were also increased, with concurrent degradation of types I and IV collagen. In contrast, no changes in skin TEWL or skin hydration were observed in mast cell-deficient mice with indomethacin-induced intestinal injury. In all mice evaluated, the plasma concentrations of IgE, IgA, histamine and TNF-α were increased in response to indomethacin treatment. Skin disruption was strongly associated with indomethacin-induced small intestinal injury, and the activation of mast cells and induction of tryptase, MMP-1 and MMP-9 are critical to this association.

Has dry/cold weather an impact on the skin condition of cleanroom workers?

In previous epidemiological studies irritant skin changes were reported significantly more frequently under dry/cold ambient air conditions. The aim of this study was to assess whether a similar effect might be observed in cleanroom workers, occupationally exposed to strictly controlled ambient conditions. This investigation examined 690 employees of a semiconductor production company in Germany, one half in winter (n = 358) and the other half in spring (n = 332). In both waves, both cleanroom workers, who used occlusive gloves predominantly during the entire shift, and employees in the administration, serving as the control group, were included. Ambient outdoor temperature and relative humidity (RH) were measured and absolute humidity (AH) was calculated. Hands were dermatologically examined with quantitative clinical skin score HEROS, supplemented by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum hydration measurements. Temperature ranged from -5.41 to 6.51°C in winter (RH 71.04-92.38%; AH 2.85-6.7 g/m³) and from 6.35 to 10.26°C in spring (RH 76.17-82.79%; AH 5.66-7.92 g/m³). Regarding HEROS, TEWL, and corneometry, no marked consistent pattern regarding an enhanced or decreased risk of irritant skin changes was found. Work in a strictly controlled environment with prolonged wearing of occlusive gloves, with clean hands and without exposure to additional hazardous substances, did not seem to negatively affect the skin. In this particular setting, meteorological conditions also did not appear to adversely affect the skin. It is conceivable that wearing of gloves and air conditioning in the plant protect skin of the hands from adverse effects due to dry and cold air encountered when not working.

Genetic associations and shared environmental effects on the skin microbiome of Korean twins

Background

The skin is the outermost layer of the human body and one of the key sites for host-microbe interactions. Both environmental and host genetic factors influence microbial communities in distinct anatomical niches, but little is known about their interplay in shaping the skin microbiome. Here, we investigate the heritable components of the skin microbiome and their association with host genetic factors.

Results

Based on our analysis of the microbiota from 45 individuals including monozygotic and dizygotic twins aged 26–55 years and their mothers, we found that skin microbial diversity was significantly influenced by age and skin pigmentation. Heritability analysis revealed genetic and shared environmental impacts on the skin microbiome. Furthermore, we observed a strong association between the abundance of Corynebacterium jeikeium and single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) in the host FLG gene related to epidermal barrier function.

Conclusion

This study reveals an intimate association of the human skin microbiome and host genes, and increases our understanding of the role of human genetic factors in establishing a microbial ecosystem on the body surface.

Electronic supplementary material

The online version of this article (doi:10.1186/s12864-015-2131-y) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

Microspectroscopic Confocal Raman and Macroscopic Biophysical Measurements in the in vivo Assessment of the Skin Barrier: Perspective for Dermatology and Cosmetic Sciences

Skin barrier function, confined to the stratum corneum, is traditionally evaluated using established, noninvasive biophysical methods like transepidermal water loss, capacitance and conductance. However, these methods neither measure skin molecular composition nor its structure, hindering the actual causes of skin barrier change or impairment. At the same time, confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRS) can directly measure skin molecular composition and structure and has proven itself to be a powerful technique for biomolecular analysis. The aims of this literature review were to evaluate noninvasive biophysical methods in view of CRS and to outline a direction towards more specific and informative skin measurement methods. We address this by investigating, for the first time, the relation between in vivo assessment of the skin barrier using indirect biophysical methods and the actual skin composition and structure as given by CRS, and emphasize the high potential of CRS for dermatology and cosmetic sciences. CRS acceptance in these fields will require close collaboration between dermatologists, skin scientists and spectroscopy experts towards simplifying the technology and creating robust, rapid, easy-to-use and less expensive CRS applications.

Histopathology of Incontinence-Associated Skin Lesions: Inner Tissue Damage Due to Invasion of Proteolytic Enzymes and Bacteria in Macerated Rat Skin

A common complication in patients with incontinence is perineal skin lesions, which are recognized as a form of dermatitis. In these patients, perineal skin is exposed to digestive enzymes and intestinal bacterial flora, as well as excessive water. The relative contributions of digestive enzymes and intestinal bacterial flora to skin lesion formation have not been fully shown. This study was conducted to reveal the process of histopathological changes caused by proteases and bacterial inoculation in skin maceration. For skin maceration, agarose gel containing proteases was applied to the dorsal skin of male Sprague-Dawley rats for 4 h, followed by Pseudomonas aeruginosa inoculation for 30 min. Macroscopic changes, histological changes, bacterial distribution, inflammatory response, and keratinocyte proliferation and differentiation were examined. Proteases induced digestion in the prickle cell layer of the epidermis, and slight bleeding in the papillary dermis and around hair follicles in the macerated skin without macroscopic evidence of erosion. Bacterial inoculation of the skin macerated by proteolytic solution resulted in the formation of bacteria-rich clusters comprising numerous microorganisms and inflammatory cells within the papillary dermis, with remarkable tissue damage around the clusters. Tissue damage expanded by day 2. On day 3, the proliferative keratinocyte layer was elongated from the bulge region of the hair follicles. Application of proteases and P. aeruginosa induced skin lesion formation internally without macroscopic erosion of the overhydrated area, suggesting that the histopathology might be different from regular dermatitis. The healing process of this lesion is similar to transepidermal elimination.

Chronic liver injury in mice promotes impairment of skin barrier function via tumor necrosis factor-alpha

CONTEXT

Alcohol is frequently used to induce chronic liver injury in laboratory animals. Alcohol causes oxidative stress in the liver and increases the expression of inflammatory mediators that cause hepatocellular damage. However, during chronic liver injury, it is unclear if/how these liver-derived factors affect distal tissues, such as the skin.

OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study was to evaluate skin barrier function during chronic liver injury.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Hairless mice were administered 5% or 10% ethanol for 8 weeks, and damages to the liver and skin were assessed using histological and protein-analysis methods, as well as by detecting inflammatory mediators in the plasma.

RESULTS

After alcohol administration, the plasma concentration of the aspartate and alanine aminotransferases increased, while albumin levels decreased. In mice with alcohol-induced liver injury, transepidermal water loss was significantly increased, and skin hydration decreased concurrent with ceramide and type I collagen degradation. The plasma concentrations of [Formula: see text]/[Formula: see text] and tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) were significantly increased in mice with induced liver injury. TNF receptor (TNFR) 2 expression was upregulated in the skin of alcohol-administered mice, while TNFR1 levels remained constant. Interestingly, the impairment of skin barrier function in mice administered with 10% ethanol was ameliorated by administering an anti-TNF-α antibody.

CONCLUSIONS

We propose a novel mechanism whereby plasma TNF-α, via TNFR2 alone or with TNFR1, plays an important role in skin barrier function during chronic liver disease in these mouse models.

A novel continuous colour mapping approach for visualization of facial skin hydration and transepidermal water loss for four ethnic groups

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this exploratory study was to develop a novel colour mapping approach to visualize and interpret the complexity of facial skin hydration and barrier properties of four ethnic groups (Caucasians, Indians, Chinese and Black Africans) living in Pretoria, South Africa.

METHODS

We measured transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin capacitance on 30 pre-defined sites on the forehead, cheek, jaw and eye areas of sixteen women (four per ethnic group) and took digital images of their faces. Continuous colour maps were generated by interpolating between each measured value and superimposing the values on the digital images.

RESULTS

The complexity of facial skin hydration and skin barrier properties is revealed by these measurements and visualized by the continuous colour maps of the digital images. Overall, the Caucasian subjects had the better barrier properties followed by the Black African subjects, Chinese subjects and Indian subjects. Nevertheless, the two more darkly pigmented ethnic groups had superior skin hydration properties. Subtle differences were seen when examining the different facial sites.

CONCLUSIONS

There exists remarkable skin capacitance and TEWL gradients within short distances on selected areas of the face. These gradients are distinctive in the different ethnic groups. In contrast to other reports, we found that darkly pigmented skin does not always have a superior barrier function and differences in skin hydration values are complex on the different parts of the face among the different ethnic groups.

Randomized, double-blinded, vehicle-controlled, split-face study to evaluate the effects of topical application of a Gold Silk Sericin/Niacinamide/Signaline complex on biophysical parameters related to skin ageing

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the effects of topical application of a Gold Silk Sericin (GSS) complex on biophysical parameters related to skin ageing.

METHODS

A range of non-invasive bioengineering methods were deployed in an 8-week randomized, double-blinded, vehicle-controlled, split-face study among 40 female subjects aged 40-70. Endpoints measured included expert grades of skin condition, stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC barrier function, elasticity and surface topography.

RESULTS

The GSS complex produced significant single-variable (P < 0.05) improvements in SC hydration, barrier function, elasticity and surface topography compared with the Vehicle control.

CONCLUSION

The GSS complex examined in this study represents an interesting new cosmetic topical technology with which to address multiple aspects of aged/photoaged female facial skin.

Choice of Moisturiser for Eczema Treatment (COMET): study protocol for a randomized controlled trial

BACKGROUND

Eczema is common in children and in the UK most cases are managed in primary care. The foundation of all treatment is the regular use of leave-on emollients to preserve and restore moisture to the skin. This not only improves comfort but may also reduce the need for rescue treatment for 'flares', such as topical corticosteroids. However, clinicians can prescribe many different types of emollient and there is a paucity of evidence to guide this choice. One reason for this may be the challenges of conducting a clinical trial: are parents or carers of young children willing to be randomly allocated an emollient and followed up for a meaningful amount of time?

DESIGN

This is a single-centre feasibility study of a pragmatic, four-arm, single-masked, randomized trial. Children with eczema who are eligible (from 1 month to less than 5 years of age, not known to be sensitive or allergic to any of study emollients or their constituents) are recruited via their general practices. Participants are allocated Aveeno® lotion, Diprobase® cream, Doublebase® gel or Hydromol® ointment via a web-based system, using a simple randomization process in a 1:1:1:1 fashion. Researchers are masked to the study emollient. Participants are assessed at baseline and followed up for 3 months. Data are collected by daily diaries, monthly researcher visits and review of electronic medical records. Because this is a feasibility study, a formal sample size calculation for the estimation of treatment effectiveness has not be made but we aim to recruit 160 participants.

DISCUSSION

Recruitment is on-going. At the end of the study, as well as being able to answer the question, 'Is it is possible to recruit and retain children with eczema from primary care into a four-arm randomized trial of emollients?', we will also have collected important data on the acceptability and effectiveness of four commonly used emollients.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

Current Controlled Trials ISRCTN21828118 and Clinical Trials Register EudraCT2013-003001-26.

Occlusive gloves and skin conditions: is there a problem? Results of a cross-sectional study in a semiconductor company

BACKGROUND

Although there is poor scientific evidence that working with occlusive gloves is as damaging as wet work, prolonged glove occlusion is considered to be a risk factor for developing hand eczema similar to wet work.

OBJECTIVES

To assess the effects of wearing occlusive gloves during the whole working day, without exposure to any additional hazardous substances, on skin condition and skin barrier function.

METHODS

We investigated 323 employees of a semiconductor production company in Germany: 177 clean-room workers wearing occlusive gloves during the whole shift (exposed group) and 146 employees working in administration (control group). A standardized interview was performed, the skin condition of both hands was studied using the quantitative skin score HEROS, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and stratum corneum hydration were measured.

RESULTS

There was no significant difference in skin condition between the two subgroups. Values for TEWL and corneometry were significantly higher in exposed participants (P < 0·05). However, the TEWL values were similar to control values if participants took off the occlusive gloves at least 30 min before the measurement. Hence, the effect of occlusion on skin barrier function seems to be transient.

CONCLUSIONS

Prolonged wearing of occlusive gloves with clean hands and without exposure to additional hazardous substances does not seem to affect the skin negatively.

Effect of vehicle on the performance of active moisturizing substances

PURPOSE

The work is aimed at the description and study of the hydration effect of different active substances (hyaluronic acid, sericin, glycerol, and urea) incorporated in two different vehicles commonly used for compounding pharmaceutical ingredients, gel, and emulsion.

METHODS

The effects of the formulations were investigated by instrumental methods in vivo after their administration to the skin of volar forearms in a group of 20 healthy volunteers (women, mean age of 28 years). Hydration effect was observed by corneometry and barrier properties (TEWL) by tewametr at regular time intervals (1-26 h) after application of the prepared samples.

RESULTS

The results indicate that the active substances incorporated in the emulsion moisturize the skin better compared to the same substances contained in the gel. Furthermore, it was found that these ingredients, whether they are present in the emulsion or in the gel, prevent TEWL in a similar manner.

CONCLUSION

The study showed that differences exist among the tested active ingredients in their ability to moisturize the skin. These differences are dependent not only on the type and concentration of the active substance used but also on the type of vehicle in which they are applied. It was also found that the active substances influence the viscosity of the prepared formulations.

A randomized, investigator-blinded efficacy assessment study of stand-alone emollient use in mild to moderately severe atopic dermatitis flares

BACKGROUND

Whereas emollients are integral to the long-term management of atopic dermatitis (AD), the evidence for their efficacy in disease flares is limited.

OBJECTIVE

We aimed to investigate the stand-alone efficacy of an emollient formulation with regard to improvement of the clinical symptoms, skin barrier function and reduction of pathogenic bacterial colonization in acute stage of AD.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Twenty AD volunteers aged 12-65 years with symmetric, mild to moderately severe inflammatory lesions on the forearms/arms were recruited for the study. At inclusion, the forearms/arms of each volunteer were randomized to receive for 1 week either an o/w formulation containing licochalcone A (Glycyrrhiza Inflata root extract), decanediol, menthoxypropanediol and ω-6-fatty acids (emollient arm) or 1% hydrocortisone (HC arm); after 1 week, the application of the emollient and HC were discontinued and the volunteers applied a w/o emollient containing licochalcone A and ω-6-fatty acids on both arms for further 3 weeks. The outcomes included reduction of the clinical and itch severity, decrease in S.aureus colonization, improvement of the barrier function, skin hydration and skin tolerability assessed after 1 week (D7) and after 4 weeks (D28) respectively.

RESULTS

In both arms, there was a significant decrease in the severity score, itch intensity, erythema and TEWL on D7 and D28 compared to baseline. In addition, emollient use resulted in pronounced decrease in S.aureus colonization and significant increase of skin hydration on D7. The comparison of the outcomes, based on percentage change from baseline, showed no significant differences between the emollient and HC arm at any time point.

CONCLUSIONS

The results of the study indicate that the 1-week stand-alone application of an emollient, tailored to target inflammation, pruritus, compromised barrier function and pathogenic bacterial colonization may offer benefit for the improvement of mild to moderately severe localized flares of AD.

Reliability of Repeated Measurements on Post-Burn Scars with Corneometer CM 825(®)

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

The water content in burn scars, the parameter of stratum corneum water holding capacity, is an important feature in evaluation of biophysical properties of scars. Nevertheless, quantifiying this parameter is a challenge. In this study, the reliability of repeated water content measurements with Corneometer CM825(®) on (burn) scars was investigated.

METHODS

Intra-observer reliability, inter-observer reliability and day-by-day variability were examined on 30 scars by means of intra-class correlation coefficient (ICC) and within-subject coefficient of variation (WSCV). Bland-Altman plots with '95% limits of agreement' were constructed.

RESULTS

Results revealed excellent ICC values (ICCintra  = 0.985; ICCinter  = 0.984) with relatively low WSCV (WSCVintra  = 6.3%; WSCVinter  = 10.6%) for respectively intra- and inter-observer reliability. However, the Bland-Altman plot showed that more than 5% of differences were expected to exceed 4 a.u., the limit of what has been defined as a clinically acceptable difference. Results for day-by-day variability showed good ICC value (ICCday-by-day  = 0.849) and higher WSCV (WSCVday-by-day  = 20.5%).

CONCLUSION

The Corneometer CM825(®) is an objective and sensitive instrument for water content measurements. On the basis of our results, we concluded that the instrument can be used in clinical trials, but only under very strict conditions with standardized test protocol, preferably in combination with the evaluation of other physiological parameters.

Characterization, sensorial evaluation and moisturizing efficacy of nanolipidgel formulations

BACKGROUND

Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) have been widely studied for cosmetic and dermatological applications due to their favourable properties that include the formation of an occlusive film on the skin surface that reduces the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increase in water content in the skin which improves the appearance on healthy human skin and reduces symptoms of some skin disorders like eczema.

OBJECTIVE

The main objective of this study was the development of semisolid formulations based NLC with argan oil or jojoba oil as liquid lipids, by addition of Carbopol®934 or Carbopol®980 as gelling agents, followed by comparison between instrumental analysis and sensorial evaluation and in vivo efficacy evaluation.

METHODS

Nanostructured lipid carriers dispersions were produced by the ultrasound technique, and to obtain a semisolid formulation, gelling agents were dispersed in the aqueous dispersion. Particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential were determined. Instrumental characterization was performed by rheological and textural analysis; the sensorial evaluation was also performed. Finally, skin hydration and TEWL were studied by capacitance and evaporimetry evaluation, respectively.

RESULTS

Particles showed a nanometric size in all the analysed formulations. All the gels present pseudoplastic behaviour. There is a correspondence between the properties firmness and adhesiveness as determined by textural analysis and the sensory evaluation. The formulations that showed a greater increase in skin hydration also presented appropriate technological and sensorial attributes for skin application.

CONCLUSIONS

Nanolipidgel formulations with the addition of humectants are promising systems for cosmetic application with good sensory and instrumental attributes and moisturizing efficacy.

Skin hydration in postmenopausal women: argan oil benefit with oral and/or topical use

The aim of this study

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of daily consumption and/or application of argan oil on skin hydration in postmenopausal women.

Material and methods

Sixty postmenopausal women consumed butter during the stabilization period and were randomly divided into two groups for the intervention period: the treatment group absorbed alimentary argan oil (n = 30) and the control group olive oil (n = 30). Both groups applied cosmetic argan oil in the left volar forearm during a sixty days’ period. Evaluation of skin hydration, i.e. transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and water content of the epidermis (WCE) on both volar forearms of the two groups, were performed during three visits at D0, D30 and after sixty days (D60) of oils treatment.

Results

The consumption of argan oil has led to a significant decrease in TEWL (p = 0.023) and a significant increase in WCE (p = 0.001). The application of argan oil has led to a significant decrease in TEWL (p = 0.01) and a significant increase in WCE (p < 0.001).

Conclusions

Our findings suggest that the daily consumption and application of argan oil have improved the skin hydration by restoring the barrier function and maintaining the water-holding capacity.

In Vivo skin hydration and anti-erythema effects of Aloe vera, Aloe ferox and Aloe marlothii gel materials after single and multiple applications

Objective:

To investigate the skin hydrating and anti-erythema activity of gel materials from Aloe marlothiiA. Berger and A. ferox Mill. in comparison to that of Aloe barbadensis Miller (Aloe vera) in healthy human volunteers.

Materials and Methods:

Aqueous solutions of the polisaccharidic fractions of the selected aloe leaf gel materials were applied to the volar forearm skin of female subjects. The hydration effect of the aloe gel materials were measured with a Corneometer^® CM 825, Visioscan^® VC 98 and Cutometer^® dual MPA 580 after single and multiple applications. The Mexameter^® MX 18 was used to determine the anti-erythema effects of the aloe material solutions on irritated skin areas.

Results:

The A. vera and A. marlothii gel materials hydrated the skin after a single application, whereas the A. ferox gel material showed dehydration effects compared to the placebo. After multiple applications all the aloe materials exhibited dehydration effects on the skin. Mexameter^® readings showed that A. vera and A. ferox have anti-erythema activity similar to that of the positive control group (i.e. hydrocortisone gel) after 6 days of treatment.

Conclusion:

The polysaccharide component of the gel materials from selected aloe species has a dehydrating effect on the skin after multiple applications. Both A. vera and A. ferox gel materials showed potential to reduce erythema on the skin similar to that of hydrocortisone gel.

Postnatal maturation of skin barrier function in premature infants

BACKGROUND

In preterm infants, skin barrier maturation entails regional variability.

OBJECTIVES

To characterize postnatal skin barrier development in covered, uncovered and diapered regions in healthy premature infants over a longitudinal observation period.

METHODS

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum hydration (SCH), pH and sebum were measured at postnatal ages of 1-7 days and 2-7 weeks on the forehead, abdomen, thigh and buttock of preterm infants (gestational age 30-37 weeks; n = 48) under monitored ambient conditions. A standard minimal skin care regimen was practised.

RESULTS

TEWL increased significantly on the buttock (p = 0.007), while remaining stable on the forehead, abdomen and thigh. SCH and sebum remained stable in all studied body regions with increasing age. On the buttock, pH increased (p = 0.049), while other body regions exhibited a significant decrease (p ≤ 0.019). TEWL (p < 0.001) and SCH (p ≤ 0.002) revealed significantly higher values on the buttock, compared to other body regions.

CONCLUSIONS

Stable TEWL, SCH and sebum values may indicate a lack of skin barrier maturation. Postnatal decrease in skin pH suggests an adaptation process with acid mantle formation. Differences in skin barrier development were observed between anatomical regions. SCH, TEWL and pH values demonstrated a distinct course in the diaper area, indicating an impaired skin barrier function in this region.

Skin barrier function in infancy: a systematic review

The skin of neonates and infants exhibits distinct anatomical and functional properties that might be clinically reflected by its characteristic susceptibility to skin barrier disruption. In this systematic review, we aimed to characterize skin barrier maturation as reflected by transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin surface pH during the first 2 years of life. We systematically searched MEDLINE and EMBASE via OVID from 1975 to 2013 to identify primary studies reporting TEWL and/or skin surface pH values in healthy full-term infants aged 0-24 months without any cutaneous diseases. After full text assessment, 36 studies reporting n = 8,483 TEWL measurements for 26 anatomical areas and n = 6,437 skin surface pH measurements for 14 anatomical areas were included. The mean age of the subjects ranged from 1.4 h to 1.2 years. The lowest pH of 4.63 was identified on the forehead at the age of 25.6 weeks, whereas the highest of 7.31 was on the volar forearm at 0.0 weeks. The lowest TEWL value of 3.1 g/m(2)/h was reported for the back at 0.6 weeks and the highest of 43.1 g/m(2)/h for the upper leg at 58.7 weeks. The skin surface pH reveals a steep decline during the first postnatal week, succeeded by a further gradual site-specific acidification process during the first month. A competent permeability barrier in most anatomical areas is indicated by TEWL, which does not exhibit a time-dependent development during the first 2 years of life.

Mometasone furoate-loaded cold processed oil-in-water emulsions: in vitro and in vivo studies

Over the years, research has focused on strategies to increase benefit/risk ratio of corticoids. However, vehicles intended for topical glucocorticoids delivery with an improved benefit/risk ratio are still on demand. The aim of this work was the in vitro and in vivo characterization of cold processed oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions intended for mometasone furoate (MF) delivery to induce drug targeting to upper skin strata, decreasing adverse effects. Two o/w emulsions, containing 0.1% of MF, were developed differing in the glycol used (2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol - PT and ethoxydiglycol - TC emulsions). In vitro permeation studies revealed that these emulsions are suitable vehicles for the delivery of MF containing ingredients which are responsible for a drastically increased on the permeability coefficients of MF from a theoretical value of 1.18 × 10(-4 )cm/h to 5.20 × 10(-4) ± 2.05 × 10(-4 )cm/h and 6.30 × 10(-4) ± 2.94 × 10(-4 )cm/h, for PT and TC, respectively. The tape stripping results showed that the amount of drug that reached the viable skin layers was very low (1.99 %) and the amount that remained in the stratum corneum (SC) was 10.61%. The in vivo studies showed that the developed formulations decreased the edema and erythema in mice skin in more that 90%, assuring, at least, the same anti-inflammatory effect compared with the commercial cream. PT placebo demonstrated to contribute to restore the skin barrier by increasing the amount of lipids within the human skin.

A double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled efficacy assessment study of a skin care formulation for improvement of mild to moderately severe acne

BACKGROUND

Inflammation, increased sebum production and P. acnes colonization are key factors in acne pathogenesis. Cosmetic formulations based on a combination of active compounds with in vitro proven anti-inflammatory, sebum regulating and P. acnes reducing properties may therefore contribute to improve the clinical signs and associated burden of disease.

OBJECTIVE

To provide in vivo proof-of-concept, we performed a 9-week, double-blind, randomized, vehicle-controlled study to assess the stand-alone efficacy of a skin care formulation containing licochalcone A, l-carnitine and 1,2-decanediol in volunteers with mild to moderately severe acne (10-25 inflammatory lesions) involving the face.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

After enrolment followed by a 1-week standardization of the cleansing procedure, 60 volunteers aged 14-40 years (40 women and 20 men, mean age 22.4 years) were randomized into two groups of 30 volunteers each, to apply either the active formulation or the vehicle twice daily on the face for 8 weeks. Reduction in the lesion count, P. acnes and sebum levels, stratum corneum hydration, Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) and skin tolerability, assessed after 4 and 8 weeks were defined as outcomes.

RESULTS

Compared to baseline, the active formulation group showed at the end of the study a reduction in the mean total lesions count and papular lesions, significant reduction in the pustules (P < 0.05) and sebum levels (P < 0.01), marked reduction in P. acnes and improvement of DLQI. No significant changes in the respective parameters were found in the vehicle group. At the end of the study, greater reduction in the total lesion count, papules and pustules, P. acnes colonization, sebum production and more pronounced improvement of life quality in the active formulation group compared to the vehicle were found.

CONCLUSIONS

Our results provide evidence for improved outcomes in result of the application of the active formulation compared to the vehicle from both physician's and patient's perspective.

International guidelines for the in vivo assessment of skin properties in non-clinical settings: Part 2. transepidermal water loss and skin hydration

BACKGROUND

There is an emerging perspective that it is not sufficient to just assess skin exposure to physical and chemical stressors in workplaces, but that it is also important to assess the condition, i.e. skin barrier function of the exposed skin at the time of exposure. The workplace environment, representing a non-clinical environment, can be highly variable and difficult to control, thereby presenting unique measurement challenges not typically encountered in clinical settings.

METHODS

An expert working group convened a workshop as part of the 5th International Conference on Occupational and Environmental Exposure of Skin to Chemicals (OEESC) to develop basic guidelines and best practices (based on existing clinical guidelines, published data, and own experiences) for the in vivo measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin hydration in non-clinical settings with specific reference to the workplace as a worst-case scenario.

RESULTS

Key elements of these guidelines are: (i) to minimize or recognize, to the extent feasible, the influences of relevant endogenous-, exogenous-, environmental- and measurement/instrumentation-related factors; (ii) to measure TEWL with a closed-chamber type instrument; (iii) report results as a difference or percent change (rather than absolute values); and (iv) accurately report any notable deviations from this guidelines.

CONCLUSION

It is anticipated that these guidelines will promote consistent data reporting, which will facilitate inter-comparison of study results.

The skin landscape in diabetes mellitus. Focus on dermocosmetic management

Background

Some relationships are established between diabetes mellitus (DM) and a series of cutaneous disorders. Specific dermatoses are markers for undiagnosed DM. Other disorders represent supervening complications in an already treated DM patient.

Objective

To review the information about dermocosmetic care products and their appropriate use in the management and prevention of dermatoses related to DM.

Method

The peer-reviewed literature and empiric findings are covered. Owing to the limited clinical evidence available for the use of dermocosmetics, a review of the routine practices and common therapies in DM-related dermatoses was conducted.

Results

Some DM-related dermatoses (acanthosis nigricans, pigmented purpuric dermatosis) are markers of macrovascular complications. The same disorders and some others (xerosis, Dupuytren’s disease) have been found to be more frequently associated with microangiopathy. Other skin diseases (alopecia areata, vitiligo) were found to be markers of autoimmunity, particularly in type 1 DM. Unsurprisingly, using dermocosmetics and appropriate skin care has shown objective improvements of some DM-related dermatoses, such effects improve the quality of life. The most common skin manifestations of DM fall along continuum between “dry skin,” xerosis, and acquired ichthyosis, occurring predominately on the shins and feet. Dermocosmetic products improve the feeling of well-being for DM patients.

Physicochemical Characterization and in vivo Skin Performance of a Novel Alkyl Polyglucoside Emulsifier in Natural Cosmetic Cream-Bases

Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) are a perfect amphiphilic structure, with excellent surface activity and solubility feature. The aim of this study is to develop a simple system, with a relatively low emulsifier content, composed of materials mainly naturally based and with no additional fatty alcohol. Hydroxystearyl alcohol and Hydroxystearyl glucoside, prepared with Jojoba and Hazelnut oil, medium chain triglycerides with or without Xylitylglucoside and Anhydroxylitol and Xylitol, have been investigated by using microscopy, rheology, thermal analysis, pH and conductimetry. Cyclic stress and in vivo skin irritation tests were also conducted. The investigated natural APG emulsifier has a capacity to form simple and stable emulsions of desirable rheological profile with improved hydration potential and to renew damaged skin, thus it can be safely applied as stabilizer in cosmetic and prospective pharmaceutical cream-bases.

Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil-in-water emulsion components

ObjectivesAs the ‘Dry Skin Cycle’ produces continuous deterioration, cosmetic xerosis (flaky, dry skin) is one of the major concerns to most consumers. The purpose of this study was to investigate the moisturizing effect of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion components. There are numerous types of oils, waxes, polyols and surfactants used as ingredients in skincare products. However, the moisturizing effect of each ingredient and understanding each use to make an effective moisturizing products are still not well understood.

Methods To provide answers to these questions, we investigated the moisturizing effect of widely used 41 components (four different classes) in a simple O/W emulsion using capacitance methods. 106 different single oils, and combinations of oil with oil, wax, humectants, and surfactant were formulated and tested.

Results In this study, we found that most of the O/W emulsion components had hydration effects on the skin. (i) The average relative water content increase (RWCI) rate of a single oil-based emulsion was 11.8 ± 5.2% (SE) and 7.9 ± 6.0% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. (ii) An oil combination emulsion showed an average RWCI rate similar to that of a single oil-based emulsion, 12.6 ± 6.0% (SE) and 12.1 ± 6.4% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively (iii) A combination of waxes with oil showed an average RWCI rate of 16 ± 5.6% (SE) and 12.4 ± 4.5% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively. (iv) Humectant combinations showed the highest average RWCI rate 28 ± 7.3% (SE) and 22.2 ± 7.5% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively (v) Surfactant combinations had an average RWCI of 10.8 ± 4.5% (SE) and 6.0 ± 4.0% (SE) at 3 and 6 h, respectively.

Conclusion Interestingly, it was difficult to find moisturizing power differences among samples in the same group. Only the humectants group showed significant differences among samples. Glycerine and urea showed significant skin hydration effects compared with other humectants. We also found a significant moisturizing effect by analysing the chemical functional groups; amide class had a higher hydration effect than betaines and disaccharides in humectants combination.

Résumé

Objectif Puisque le «cycle de la peau sèche” produit une détérioration continue, la xérose cosmétique (squameuse, peau sèche) est l’une des préoccupations majeures pour la plupart des consommateurs. Le but de cette étude était d’étudier l’effet hydratant des composants d’émulsions H / E. Il existe de nombreux types d’huiles, des cires, de polyols, et des tensioactifs utilisés comme ingrédients dans les produits de soins de la peau. Cependant, l’effet hydratant de chaque ingrédient et de leur utilisation dans des produits hydratants efficaces ne sont pas encore bien compris.

MethodesPour apporter des réponses à ces questions, nous avons étudié l’effet hydratant des 41 éléments (4 classes différentes) largement utilisés dans une émulsion simple O/W en utilisant des méthodes de capacitance. 106 huiles individuelles différentes et des combinaisons d’huile avec de l’huile, de la cire, des humectants, et de tensioactifs ont été formulées et testées.

ResultatsDans cette étude, nous avons constaté que la plupart des composants des émulsions huile-dans-eau (H/E) possédaient des effets d’hydratation de la peau. (i) Le taux moyen d’augmentation d’eau (RWCI = relative water content increase) d’une émulsion à base d’une seule huile était de 11,8 ± 5,2% (SE) et de 7,9 ± 6,0% (SE) à 3 et 6 h, respectivement. (ii) Une émulsion de combinaison d’huile montrait une RWCI similaire à celle d’une émulsion à base d’huile unique, 12,6 ± 6,0% (SE) et 12,1 ± 6,4% (SE) à 3 et 6 h, respectivement. (iii) Une combinaison des cires avec de l’huile présentait une RWCI de 16 ± 5,6% (SE) et 12,4 ± 4,5% (SE) à 3 et 6 h, respectivement. (iv) Les combinaisons d’humectant ont montré la plus forte augmentation avec +28 ± 7,3% (SE) et 22,2 ± 7,5% (SE) à 3 et 6 h, respectivement. (v) Les combinaisons de tensioactifs ont une RWCI moyenne de 10,8 ± 4,5% (SE) et de 6,0 ± 4,0% (SE) à 3 et 6 h, respectivement.

ConclusionFait intéressant, il était difficile de trouver des différences de pouvoir d’hydratation entre les échantillons dans le même groupe. Seul le groupe des humectants a montré des différences significatives entre les échantillons. La glycérine et l’urée ont montré des effets significatifs sur l’hydratation de la peau par rapport aux autres humectants. Nous avons également constaté un effet hydratant important en analysant les groupes fonctionnels chimiques; la classe “amide” a eu un effet d’hydratation plus élevé que les bétaînes et disaccharides dans les combinaisons des humectants.

Nonlesional skin in atopic dermatitis is seemingly healthy skin - observations using noninvasive methods

Introduction

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic and relapsing skin disorder, which is characterized by abnormal skin barrier function within the entire skin surface. Several noninvasive bioengineering methods have been commonly used to quantify disease severity. High-frequency ultrasonography (HF-USG) is an important contribution to this field.

Aim

To evaluate noninvolved skin during the external treatment in relation to involved regions in patients with AD skin using noninvasive methods.

Material and methods

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), capacitance and erythema assessment and HF-USG were performed in 55 AD patients within 2 regions (involved and uninvolved skin) before and after therapy. The clinical severity of the disease process was based on the eczema area and severity index (EASI) score. A control group consisting of 15 subjects was also included.

Results

On the basis of 4 bioengineering methods our study revealed that uninvolved skin in AD presents subclinical disturbances and significantly changes during therapy. The HF-USG detects inflammation in the upper dermis in AD patients in the form of a hypoechoic band, which may also be observed to a lesser extent within normal-appearing skin.

Conclusions

Nonlesional skin differs significantly from lesional skin in AD and from skin of healthy subjects. Noninvasive methods are able to measure subclinical skin disturbances within normal-appearing skin, which are not evaluated using standard clinical scores. They are objective and may facilitate communication between different research groups.