In vitro and in vivo confocal Raman study of human skin hydration: assessment of a new moisturizing agent, pMPC

Update on the advances and challenges in bioequivalence testing methods for complex topical generic products

Most of the government regulatory agencies, including the United States Food and Drug Administration and the European Medicine Agency, demand that the generic complex topical products prove pharmaceutical and bioequivalence. The evaluation of bioequivalence for complex topical dermatological formulations is a challenging task that requires careful consideration of several factors. Although comparative clinical studies are still considered the gold standard approach for establishing bioequivalence in most formulations, these studies can be costly and insensitive to detect formulation differences. Therefore, significant efforts have been made to develop and validate alternative approaches that demonstrate bioequivalence and expedite the availability of high-quality generic topical dermatological products. This article reviews the current methods for determining the bioequivalence of topical formulations in humans, with particular emphasis on recent advances in these methodologies. Most of the alternative methods are sensitive and reproducible, with the capability to ease the financial burden of comparative clinical studies within a short delivery time. The limitations associated with each technique are reviewed in detail.

Co-localized line-field confocal optical coherence tomography and confocal Raman microspectroscopy for three-dimensional high-resolution morphological and molecular characterization of skin tissues ex vivo

Line-field confocal optical coherence tomography (LC-OCT) is an optical modality that provides three-dimensional (3D) images of the skin at cellular resolution. Confocal Raman microspectroscopy (CRM) is a label-free optical technique that can provide point measurement of the molecular content of the skin. This work presents a method to co-localize LC-OCT and CRM acquisitions for morpho-molecular analysis of ex vivo skin tissues at cellular level. The co-localization method allows acquisition of Raman spectra at specific locations in a sample identified from a 3D LC-OCT image, with an accuracy of ± 20 µm. The method was applied to the characterization of tattooed skin biopsies with adverse tattoo reactions. LC-OCT images allowed to target specific regions in the biopsies where the presence of tattoo ink was revealed by detection of the Raman signature of ink pigments. Micrometer-sized foreign bodies of various materials as well as inflammatory cells were also identified within the biopsies. From these results, we demonstrate the value of the LC-OCT-CRM co-localization method and its potential for future ex vivo analysis of suspicious skin lesions.

Preparation of a thermo-responsive drug carrier consisting of a biocompatible triblock copolymer and fullerene

A triblock copolymer (PEG-b-PUEM-b-PMPC; EUM) comprising poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG), thermo-responsive poly(2-ureidoethyl methacrylate) (PUEM), and poly(2-(methacryloyloxy)ethyl phosphorylcholine) (PMPC) blocks was synthesized via controlled radical polymerization. PEG and PMPC blocks exhibit hydrophilicity and biocompatibility. The PUEM block exhibits an upper critical solution temperature (UCST). PMPC can dissolve hydrophobic fullerenes in water to form a complex by grinding PMPC and fullerene powders. Fullerene-C₇₀ (C₇₀) and EUM were ground in a mortar and phosphate-buffered saline (PBS) was added to synthesize a water-soluble complex (C₇₀/EUM). C₇₀/EUM has a core-shell-corona structure, whose core is a complex of C₇₀ and PMPC, the shell is PUEM, and corona is PEG. The maximum C₇₀ concentration dissolved in PBS was 0.313 g L^-1 at an EUM concentration of 2 g L^-1. The C₇₀/EUM hydrodynamic radius (R_h) was 34 nm in PBS at 10 °C, which increased due to the PUEM block's UCST phase transition with increasing temperature, and R_h attained a constant value of 38 nm above 36 °C. An anticancer drug, doxorubicin, was encapsulated in the PUEM shell by hydrophobic interactions in C₇₀/EUM at room temperature, which can be released by heating. The generation of singlet oxygen (¹O₂) from C₇₀/EUM upon visible-light irradiation was confirmed using the singlet oxygen sensor green indicator. Water-soluble C₇₀/EUM may be used as a carrier that releases encapsulated drugs when heated and as a photosensitizer for photodynamic therapy.

Stabilization of Lipid Lamellar Bilayer Structure of Stratum Corneum Modulated by Poly (2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine) in Relation to Skin Hydration and Skin Protection

BACKGROUND

One crucial factor in skin tissue engineering is to understand the hydration and barrier property of skin. We investigated the skin hydration and stabilization strategy of inter-lamellar structure of stratum corneum (SC) using poly (2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine) (PMPC).

METHODS

The unique hydration and stabilization potency of PMPC on the barrier function of the SC examined using freshly excised hairless mouse skin as a model membrane and the relationship between the stabilization of the lipid lamellar bilayer (LLB) and its enhanced water holding capacity was established.

RESULTS

Differential scanning calorimeter based on the phase-transition temperature of lipid domain of SC demonstrated that PMPC stabilized the LLB. The ratio of the heat of lipid phase transition (△H) of SC exposed to water and PMPC for 24 h was 1.51. X-ray crystallography showed the presence of well- organized lipids in intercellular membranes exhibiting short and long periodicity of lamellar phases. The peak at 4.4 nm attributed to the long periodicity phase (LPP) was missing in water-treated SC, where, the presence of 4.2- 4.4 nm peak in PMPC treated SC indicated that PMPC stabilized LPP. Transmission electron microscopy study demonstrated that the LLB structure became more rigid and orderly in PMPC treated SC.

CONCLUSION

The unique ion paired structure of PMPC enhances the barrier function of the SC by stabilizing LLB structure and hydration by inducing weakly bound water. The unique hydration state and stabilization effect from extended water exposure could provide a valuable information to prepare reliable artificial skin matrix and skin tissue.

Multi parametric biophysical assessment of treatment effects on xerotic skin

Background

Topical moisturizing products are widely used to alleviate the problems associated with xerotic skin. Their use affects many properties of the stratum corneum (SC) in a complex and interrelated manner. The range of measurement techniques available to the researcher has increased in recent years. However, few studies have looked for correlations between the different techniques for assessing how aspects of xerotic skin change over time as a result of topical moisturizer usage.

Objectives

A 3‐week in vivo study using an oil‐in‐water based moisturizing product and an untreated site was conducted to determine the clinical significance of and any correlations between a range of different approaches for the measurement of skin lipid content and also skin hydration and visual grading of dry skin.

Methods

A range of traditional and more recently developed skin measurement techniques have been used to examine a variety of SC properties in normal and xerotic skin during topical moisturizer usage.

Results

In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy and analysis of SC lipids from tape strips both showed an increase in SC lipid level and organization after 3 weeks of moisturizer usage on xerotic skin. Hydration, measured both optically and electrically, also increased and skin barrier function improved, with strong correlations between the different measures of dryness being observed.

Conclusions

Strong correlations were observed between the skin measurements for lipid assessment and skin hydration with regard to the assessment of xerotic skin, providing valuable new information for future in vivo clinical research into dry and atopic skin.

Keywords

biophysical assessment, skin barrier, skin hydration, topical moisturizers, Xerosis

Fabrication and Characterization of Polyvinylpyrrolidone-Eggshell Membrane-Reduced Graphene Oxide Nanofibers for Tissue Engineering Applications

One of the best methods to prevent wound infection and speed up wound healing is wound dressing based on nanofiber-polymer scaffolds, which have acceptable antimicrobial performance and appropriate skin regeneration capabilities. In this paper, the electrospinning method was applied to synthesize the polyvinylpyrrolidone-acrylic acid hydrogel (PVPA)-eggshell membrane (ESM)-reduced graphene oxide (rGO) nanosheets nanocomposite dressings with different reduced graphene oxide contents (0, 0.5, 1, and 2 wt.%). Thus, smooth nanofibers were fabricated, including a high amount of rGO, which reduced the fiber diameter. Based on the results, rGO played an important role in water impermeability. The results showed that by increasing the rGO concentration from 0.5 to 2 wt%, the contact angle value increased persistently. Results showed that compared to PVPA-ESM, the mechanical strength and strain of PVPA-ESM/1 wt% rGO significantly enhanced 28% and 23%, respectively. Incorporation of 1 wt% rGO enhanced swelling ratio from 875% for PVPA-ESM to 1235% after 420 min, while increasing the rGO to 2 wt% increased the degradation rate of the composites. According to the in vitro cell culture studies, PVPA-ESM wound dressings with 0.5-1 wt% rGO content enhanced PC12 cell viability compared to the wound dressings without rGO nanosheets. Generally, rGO-loaded PVPA-ESM nanofiber wound dressing can be considered as a potential candidate to be used in skin regeneration applications.

An in vitro Raman study on compositional correlations of lipids and protein with animal tissue hydration

Raman spectroscopy is a powerful non-invasive tool for detection and classification of chemical composition of materials including biological tissues. In this work, we report an in vitro Raman study on animal skin samples with a focus on high-frequency vibrations such as symmetric CH₃ stretching mode at 2934 cm^-1, and the symmetric CH₂ vibration mode at 2854 cm^-1, OH stretching modes near 3412 cm^-1, and bounded OH mode near 3284 cm^-1. Raman data was acquired with a customized InGaAs based Raman spectrometer that consolidates the NIR (866 nm) light and the InGaAs detector and is particularly suitable for probing high-frequency vibrations. The Raman spectra of fat, tendon, and muscle tissues are also analyzed to determine the spectroscopic identities of CH and OH groups in skin. Our results suggest that the protein is beneficial for the maintenance of skin hydration, as it has higher water capacity and greater capability to retain water than lipids. This conclusion is consistent with the additional discovery that water exists in fat mainly as unbound type, while part of water exists as bound type in muscle.

Effect of surface chemistry of polymeric nanoparticles on cutaneous penetration of cholecalciferol

We investigated the influence of nanoparticle (NP) surface composition on different aspects of skin delivery of a lipophilic drug: chemical stability, release and skin penetration. Cholecalciferol was chosen as a labile model drug. Poly(lactic acid) (PLA)-based NPs without surface coating, with a non-ionic poly(ethylene glycol) (PEG) coating, or with a zwitterionic poly(2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine) (PMPC) coating were prepared using flash nanoprecipitation. Process was optimized to obtain similar hydrodynamic diameters. Polymeric NPs were compared to non-polymeric cholecalciferol formulations. Cholecalciferol stability in aqueous medium was improved by polymeric encapsulation with a valuable effect of a hydrophilic coating. However, the in vitro release of the drug was found independent of the presence of any polymer, as for the drug penetration in an intact skin model. Such tendency was not observed in impaired skin since, when stratum corneum was removed, we found that a neutral hydrophilic coating around NPs reduced drug penetration compared to pure drug NPs and bare PLA NPs. The nature of the hydrophilic block (PEG or PMPC) had however no impact. We hypothesized that NPs surface influenced drug penetration in impaired skin due to different electrostatic interactions between NPs and charged skin components of viable skin layers.

Detecting active ingredients of insect repellents and sunscreens topically in skin by Raman spectroscopy

We present the use of Raman spectroscopy for determination of functional characteristics of insect repellents and sunscreens by identifying the active ingredients of these products applied topically to the skin. Commercial formulations of insect repellents and sunscreens (SPF 15 and 30) were obtained, and Raman spectra were obtained from the formulations and from volunteers' skins with topical applications of such products compared to controls. The results indicated that, for insect repellents, the peaks at 527 and 1003  cm  -  1 were markers of the presence of the active ingredient diethyl toluamide in the skin, while for sunscreens, the peaks at 1177, 1288, and 1611  cm  -  1, associated to octinoxate, benzophenone-3, and avobenzone, were markers of the presence of solar filters in the skin. The results suggested reliability in the use of Raman spectroscopy to identify the active ingredients of insect repellents and sunscreens topically applied on the skin; the applied methodology can be used to determine the functional characteristics of topical products with similar characteristics.

In Vivo Determination of Moisturizers Efficacy on Human Skin Hydration by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy

This research work deals with in vivo testing of the efficacy of commercial moisturizer products on the hydration of human skin, as there are various in vitro and ex vivo studies questioning their activity. Confocal Raman spectroscopy was used for this purpose of assessing the efficacy of moisturizers on skin hydration mainly owing to its simple, non-invasive, non-destructive, timesaving, and cost-effective nature. Water content and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of stratum corneum were analyzed and compared using this method at high wavenumber (2500-4000 cm^-1) and fingerprint (400-1800 cm^-1) spectral regions, respectively, as these two parameters are correlated to skin hydration. Four commercial moisturizer products of different brands were tested on volar forearm region of healthy human female volunteers. This study was conducted for a period of 30 days with 0, 7, and 30 days as time points of analysis. The results of this study clearly indicate that not all the moisturizer products hydrate the skin to the expected levels, and this extent of skin hydration varies with duration of application of these products.

Confocal Raman spectroscopic imaging for in vitro monitoring of active ingredient penetration and distribution in reconstructed human epidermis model

Topically applied active cosmetic ingredients (ACI) or active pharmaceutical ingredients (API) efficacy is directly related to their efficiency of penetration in the skin. In vitro reconstructed human epidermis surrogate models offer in vivo like skin samples for transdermal studies. Using Delipidol®, an ACI currently used in the cosmetics industry, the capabilities to deliver accurate distribution maps and penetration profiles of this molecule by means of confocal Raman spectroscopic imaging have been demonstrated. Using a non-negative constrained least squares (NCLS) approach, contribution of specific molecules can be estimated at each point of spectral maps in order to deliver semi-quantitative heat maps representing the ACI levels in the different skin layers. The concentration profiles obtained are approximately single exponential for all 3 time points evaluated, with a consistent decay constant, which is independent of the sublayer structure. Notably, however, there is no significant penetration into the lower basal layers until a critical concentration is built up, after 3 hours. Combination of Raman confocal imaging with spectral unmixing methods such as NCLS is demonstrated to be a relevant approach for in vitro biological evaluation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical active ingredients and could easily be implemented as a screening tool for industrial use.

In Vivo Human Skin Penetration Study of Sunscreens by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy

This research work mainly deals with the application of confocal Raman spectroscopic technique to study in vivo human skin penetration of sunscreen products, as there are a lot of controversies associated with their skin penetration. Healthy human volunteers were tested for penetration of two commercial sunscreen products into their volar forearm skin for a period of 2 h. Measurements were taken before and after application of these sunscreen products. All the confocal Raman spectra were pre-processed and then subjected to multivariate two-dimensional principal component analysis and classical least squares analysis to determine the skin penetration of these sunscreens in comparison to the "sunscreen product spectrum" which was considered as the control. Score plots of principal component analysis of confocal Raman spectra indicated clear separation between the spectra before and after application of sunscreen products. Loading plots showed the maximum differences in the spectral region from 1590 to 1626 cm^-1 where the characteristic peak of the pure sunscreen products was observed. Classical least squares analysis has shown a significant penetration to a depth of 10 μm in the volar forearm skin of healthy human volunteers for both these sunscreen products. The results confirm that the penetration of these tested sunscreen products was restricted to stratum corneum and also prove that confocal Raman spectroscopy is a simple, fast, nondestructive, and noninvasive semi-quantitative analytical technique for these studies.

In vivo study of dermal collagen of striae distensae by confocal Raman spectroscopy

This research work mainly deals with studying qualitatively the changes in the dermal collagen of two forms of striae distensae (SD) namely striae rubrae (SR) and striae albae (SA) when compared to normal skin (NS) using confocal Raman spectroscopy. The methodology includes an in vivo human skin study for the comparison of confocal Raman spectra of dermis region of SR, SA, and NS by supervised multivariate analysis using partial least squares discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) to determine qualitatively the changes in dermal collagen. These groups are further analyzed for the extent of hydration of dermal collagen by studying the changes in the water content bound to it. PLS-DA score plot showed good separation of the confocal Raman spectra of dermis region into SR, SA, and NS data groups. Further analysis using loading plot and S-plot indicated the participation of various components of dermal collagen in the separation of these groups. Bound water content analysis showed that the extent of hydration of collagen is more in SD when compared to NS. Based on the results obtained, this study confirms the active involvement of dermal collagen in the formation of SD. It also emphasizes the need to study quantitatively the role of these various biochemical changes in the dermal collagen responsible for the variance between SR, SA, and NS.

Applications of Raman spectroscopy in skin research--From skin physiology and diagnosis up to risk assessment and dermal drug delivery

In the field of skin research, confocal Raman microscopy is an upcoming analytical technique. Substantial technical progress in design and performance of the individual setup components like detectors and lasers as well as the combination with confocal microscopy enables chemically selective and non-destructive sample analysis with high spatial resolution in three dimensions. Due to these advantages, the technique bears tremendous potential for diverse skin applications ranging from the analysis of physiological component distribution in skin tissue and the diagnosis of pathological states up to biopharmaceutical investigations such as drug penetration kinetics within the different tissue layers. This review provides a comprehensive introduction about the basic principles of Raman microscopy highlighting the advantages and considering the limitations of the technique for skin applications. Subsequently, an overview about skin research studies applying Raman spectroscopy is given comprising various in vitro as well as in vivo implementations. Furthermore, the future perspective and potential of Raman microscopy in the field of skin research are discussed.

Hydration effects on the barrier function of stratum corneum lipids: Raman analysis of ceramides 2, III and 5

The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin; its barrier function is highly dependent on the composition and the structure as well as the organization of lipids in its extracellular matrix. Ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol represent the major lipid classes present in this matrix. They play an important role in maintaining the normal hydration levels required for the normal physiological function. Despite the advancement in the understanding of the structure, composition and the function of the stratum corneum (SC), the concern of "dry skin" remains important in dermatology and care research. Most studies focus on the quantification of water in the skin using different techniques including Raman spectroscopy, while the studies that investigate the effect of hydration on the quality of the barrier function of the skin are limited. Raman spectroscopy provides structural, conformational and organizational information that could help elucidate the effect of hydration on the barrier function of the skin. In order to assess the effect of relative humidity on the lipid barrier function; we used Raman spectroscopy to follow-up the evolution of the conformation and the organization of three synthetic ceramides (CER) differing from each other by the nature of their polar heads (sphingosine, phytosphingosine and α hydroxyl sphingosine), CER 2, III and 5 respectively. CER III and 5 showed a more compact and ordered organization with stronger polar interactions at intermediate relative humidity values, while CER 2 showed opposite tendencies to those observed with CER III and 5.

Non-invasive depth profile imaging of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microscopy: first insights into the method

The stratum corneum is a strong barrier that must be overcome to achieve successful transdermal delivery of a pharmaceutical agent. Many strategies have been developed to enhance the permeation through this barrier. Traditionally, drug penetration through the stratum corneum is evaluated by employing tape-stripping protocols and measuring the content of the analyte. Although effective, this method cannot provide a detailed information regarding the penetration pathways. To address this issue various microscopic techniques have been employed. Raman microscopy offers the advantage of label free imaging and provides spectral information regarding the chemical integrity of the drug as well as the tissue. In this paper we present a relatively simple method to obtain XZ-Raman profiles of human stratum corneum using confocal Raman microscopy on intact full thickness skin biopsies. The spectral datasets were analysed using a spectral unmixing algorithm. The spectral information obtained, highlights the different components of the tissue and the presence of drug. We present Raman images of untreated skin and diffusion patterns for deuterated water and beta-carotene after Franz-cell diffusion experiment.

Measuring the effects of topical moisturizers on changes in stratum corneum thickness, water gradients and hydration in vivo

BACKGROUND

Moisturizers are the most commonly used topically applied product for the treatment of dry skin conditions. They affect many properties and functions of the stratum corneum but some moisturizers have been reported to be detrimental to barrier function. Stratum corneum barrier function is a composite of its total structure and thickness but few studies have taken this into account. As a biosensor, the stratum corneum (SC) will change its structure in response to treatment and a swelling effect has been clearly demonstrated by skin hydration. Recently several moisturizing agents have been shown to have an effect on SC swelling behaviour with conflicting results. However, there is a paucity of data reported for measuring the effects of long-term usage of moisturizers on SC thickness in vivo as, until recently, traditional techniques did not have the resolution to measure the effects of moisturizers on nonpalmoplantar body sites. The development of confocal Raman spectroscopy for use in human subjects provides noninvasive, real-time, in vivo measurement of SC water concentration profiles and we have also used this state of the art equipment to measure the effect of the long-term use of moisturizers on SC thickness for the first time.

OBJECTIVES

To validate the use of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) to measure SC thickness and then use it to investigate the short- and long-term effects of moisturizers (one of which is known to improve SC barrier function) on SC thickness, water gradients and hydration.

METHODS

Two studies were conducted: (i) to validate the use of CRS for measuring SC thickness through comparison with optical coherence tomography (OCT); and (ii) once validated to use CRS to measure the long-term effects of three commercially available moisturizers (A, B, C) on SC thickness and water gradients, together with total hydration, over a 3-week period (2 weeks of treatment and 1 week regression) and compare the spectroscopy-derived hydration value with instrumentally derived capacitance hydration values.

RESULTS

(i) A strong, positive correlation in SC thickness was obtained between CRS and OCT (OCT-derived thickness = 0.96 x CRS-derived thickness, r(2) = 0.93; P <0.0001). OCT was shown, however, to have a lower resolution than CRS in distinguishing SC thickness on thinner nonpalmoplantar body sites. Using the CRS method, differences in SC thickness were readily apparent on different body sites (cheek 12.8 +/- 0.9 microm, volar forearm 18.0 +/- 3.9 microm, leg 22.0 +/- 6.9 microm). (ii) Examining the effects of moisturizers in a blinded, randomized 3-week study in human volunteers (n = 14) demonstrated that only one commercially available formulation (A) changed SC water gradients, thickness and hydration as measured by CRS. These hydration data did not directly correlate with capacitance hydration values.

CONCLUSIONS

(i) In vivo CRS was validated as a technique to measure SC thickness on both palmoplantar and, particularly, on nonpalmoplantar skin sites. (ii) Moisturizers improve skin moisturization but in this study only formulation A improved SC thickness, water gradients and hydration as measured by CRS. We hypothesize that this was due to compositional differences between the products. We believe that niacinamide (nicotinamide, vitamin B(3)) is probably contributing significantly to this effect, as it has been proven to increase epidermal lipogenesis and SC barrier function in other studies. These results show that by using CRS, we were able for the first time to determine the effect of moisturizer on multiple SC barrier endpoints including SC thickness, and water content as a function of depth and total SC water content.

In vivo methods for the assessment of topical drug bioavailability

This paper reviews some current methods for the in vivo assessment of local cutaneous bioavailability in humans after topical drug application. After an introduction discussing the importance of local drug bioavailability assessment and the limitations of model-based predictions, the focus turns to the relevance of experimental studies. The available techniques are then reviewed in detail, with particular emphasis on the tape stripping and microdialysis methodologies. Other less developed techniques, including the skin biopsy, suction blister, follicle removal and confocal Raman spectroscopy techniques are also described.