Quantification of furocoumarins in hydroalcoholic fragrances by a liquid chromatography-high resolution/accurate mass method

Phototoxicity and skin damage: A review of adverse effects of some furocoumarins found in natural extracts

The phototoxicological effects of furocoumarins have been extensively studied. In association with UVA, some of these natural constituents of botanical isolates used in cosmetics, can be photoirritant, photogenotoxic and/or photocarcinogenic. Importantly, not all furocoumarins share the same degree of potency and some are inactive. The more potent furocoumarins, 8-methoxypsoralen and 5-methoxypsoralen, have been subject to extensive mechanistic studies. The formation of adducts with DNA has been widely studied but other contributary mechanisms have also been proposed. The phototoxicological effects, ranging from photoirritation to photocarcinogenicity, are dependent on the dermal dose of furocoumarin and the fluence (dose) of filtered, artificial UVA light. This is particularly evident from photocarcinogenicity studies in animals and from the effect of sequential irradiation sessions in patients receiving Psoralen-UVA (PUVA) therapy. A currently enforced limit of 1 ppm for sun bronzing and sunscreen products for which prolonged intentional exposure to UVA is likely, and 5 ppm total furocoumarin concentration in other cosmetic products, e.g., facial cosmetics, that are likely to be only exposed to adventitious and intermittent UVA irradiation, provides a suitably protective threshold when compared to the UV exposure that has been used in studies on animals and in treating PUVA patients.

Analysis of Prohibited and Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics

The general public uses cosmetics daily. Cosmetic products contain substances (ingredients) with various functions, from skincare to enhancing appearance, as well as ingredients that preserve the cosmetic products. Some cosmetic ingredients are prohibited or restricted in certain geographical regions, such as the European Union and the United States of America, due to their potential to cause adverse effects such as cancer, birth defects, and/or developmental and reproductive disorders. However, the ingredients may be used in other regions, and, hence, the monitoring of the cosmetic ingredients actually used is important to ensure the safety of cosmetic products. This review provides an overview of recent analytical methods that have been developed for detecting certain ingredients that are restricted or prohibited by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and/or EU legislation on cosmetic products.

Linear retention index approach applied to liquid chromatography coupled to triple quadrupole mass spectrometry to determine oxygen heterocyclic compounds at trace level in finished cosmetics

In the European Union, cosmetic products are regulated by the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. The Analytical Working Group of the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) suggested that a new sensitive analytical method is needed to determine psoralens in finished cosmetic products. This research provides an HPLC-MS/MS method for the quality control of 20 furocoumarins, 8 coumarins and 7 polymethoxyflavones in cosmetics. Thanks to the high sensitivity of the tandem mass spectrometry detection in Multiple Reaction Monitoring mode, psoralens contained in trace have been quantified in different products. The Limits of Quantifications were in the range 0.3-74 μg L^-1. A reliable identification was achieved combining the Linear Retention Index (LRI) system with the MS and MS/MS libraries. In particular, the attribution was based on the spectra similarity filtered by the LRI parameter. The robustness and reproducibility of the LRI approach was demonstrated by the comparison of the HPLC-MS/MS results here reported with those obtained in our previous study, by using an HPLC-PDA system. This method could be taken into account for quality control of furocoumarins in cosmetics, and by the main associations, such as IFRA, for the purpose of issuing new opinions.

Novel ionic liquid based dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction for the extraction of bergapten and bergamottin in hydroalcoholic cosmetic formulations

This study reports the synthesis of the room temperature ionic liquid 1-propyloxy-3-ethoxyimidazolium bis(trifluoromethane)sulfonamide for the extraction of bergapten and bergamottin from hydroalcoholic cosmetic samples by means of dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction. Molecular structures of the final ionic liquid as well as intermediate products were confirmed by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy. Analyses were performed with high performance liquid chromatography with subsequent diode array and fluorescence detection. The extraction procedure was optimized with the design of the experiment using a three level Box-Behnken approach. Applying the synthesized room temperature ionic liquid as extraction medium, the optimized workflow demonstrated high recoveries illustrating powerful isolation properties for furanocoumarins, which are comparable or even better than using typical extraction solvents. Moreover, the workflow was validated regarding instrumental limits, linearity, accuracy, repeatability and stability of analytes according to international guidelines. To test its applicability on a more complex matrix, hydroalcoholic cosmetic samples were analyzed. Despite highly complex matrices, accurate and precise quantification in the range of 0.04-1.25 μg mL-1 was achieved in spiked and unspiked samples, with bias <10% and RSD < 12%.

Simultaneous detection of five flavoring agents in chewing gum by ultrasound-microwave synergistic extraction coupled with gas chromatography

So far, the identification and determination of flavor additives in food has gained extensive attention in the area of food safety. However, it remains a big challenge for simultaneous detection of diverse flavor agents. In this work, a novel gas chromatography method coupled with ultrasound-microwave synergistic extraction was developed for simultaneous detection of five flavor compounds, including butyl butyrate, menthol, methyl salicylate, eugenol and vanilline. In this strategy, ultrasound-microwave synergistic extraction was used to extract the five flavoring agents from chewing gum. The effects of extractants, solid-liquid ratio, extraction time and microwave power on extraction yield were researched by using orthogonal test. After the optimization of programme temperature and splitless injection, the five flavoring agents were well separated and simultaneously detected with wide linear ranges, low limits of detection, high accuracy and good repeatability. Therefore, this proposed method would hold great promise for assay application on the food safety.

Botanical Sources, Chemistry, Analysis, and Biological Activity of Furanocoumarins of Pharmaceutical Interest

The aim of this work is to provide a critical review of plant furanocoumarins from different points of view, including their chemistry and biosynthetic pathways to their extraction, analysis, and synthesis, to the main biological activities found for these active compounds, in order to highlight their potential within pharmaceutical science. The limits and the possible improvements needed for research involving these molecules are also highlighted and discussed.

Good quantification practices of flavours and fragrances by mass spectrometry

Over the past 15 years, chromatographic techniques with mass spectrometric detection have been increasingly used to monitor the rapidly expanded list of regulated flavour and fragrance ingredients. This trend entails a need for good quantification practices suitable for complex media, especially for multi-analytes. In this article, we present experimental precautions needed to perform the analyses and ways to process the data according to the most recent approaches. This notably includes the identification of analytes during their quantification and method validation, when applied to real matrices, based on accuracy profiles. A brief survey of application studies based on such practices is given.This article is part of the themed issue 'Quantitative mass spectrometry'.