Comparison of the metabolism of 10 cosmetics-relevant chemicals in EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions and in vitro human skin explants

Suitability of different reconstructed human skin models in the skin and liver Chip2 microphysiological model to investigate the kinetics and first-pass skin metabolism of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene

The HUMIMIC skin-liver Chip2 microphysiological systems model using the epidermal model, EpiDerm™, was reported previously to mimic application route-dependent metabolism of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). Therefore, we evaluated the use of alternative skin models-SkinEthic™, EpiDermFT™ and PhenionFT™-for the same purpose. In static incubations, AHT permeation was similar using SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models. Older Day 21 (D21) SkinEthic™ models with a thicker stratum corneum did not exhibit a greater barrier to AHT (overall permeation was the same in D17 and D21 models). All epidermal models metabolised AHT, with the EpiDerm™ exhibiting higher N-acetylation than SkinEthic™ models. AHT metabolism by D21 SkinEthic™ models was lower than that by D17 SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models, thus a thicker stratum corneum was associated with fewer viable cells and a lower metabolic activity. AHT permeation was much slower using PhenionFT™ compared to epidermal models and better reflected permeation of AHT through native human skin. This model also extensively metabolised AHT to N-acetyl-AHT. After a single topical or systemic application of AHT to Chip2 model with PhenionFT™, medium was analysed for parent and metabolites over 5 days. The first-pass metabolism of AHT was demonstrated, and the introduction of a wash step after 30 min decreased the exposure to AHT and its metabolites by 33% and 40%-43%, respectively. In conclusion, epidermal and FT skin models used in the Chip2 can mimic the first-pass skin metabolism of AHT. This highlights the flexibility of the Chip2 to incorporate different skin models according to the purpose.

Skin sensitisation prediction using read-across, an illustrative next generation risk assessment (NGRA) case study for vanillin

Skin sensitisation is a key adverse human health effect to be addressed in the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients. Regulatory demands and scientific progress have led to the development of a Next Generation Risk Assessment (NGRA) framework, relying on the use of New Approach Methodologies (NAM) Defined Approaches (DA) and read-across instead of generating animal data. This case study illustrates the application of read-across for the prediction of the skin sensitisation potential of vanillin at the hypothetical use concentration of 0.5% in a shower gel and face cream. A three-step process was applied to select the most suitable analogues based on their protein reactivity, structural characteristics, physicochemical properties, skin metabolism profile and availability of skin sensitisation data. The applied read-across approach predicted a weak skin sensitiser potential for vanillin corresponding with a Local Lymph Node Assay EC3 value of 10%. Based on this EC3 value a point of departure of 2500 μg/cm2 was derived, resulting in an acceptable exposure level (AEL) of 25 μg/cm2. Because the consumer exposure levels (CEL) for the face cream (13.5 μg/cm2) and shower gel (0.05 μg/cm2) scenarios were lower than the AEL, the NGRA concluded both uses as safe.

Impact of chemical structure on the in vitro hydrolysis of fatty esters of 2-ethylhexanoic acid or 2-ethylhexanol and extrapolation to the in vivo situation

Fatty esters of 2-ethylhexanoic acid (EHA) and 2-ethylhexanol (EH) are commonly used in cosmetics. Human liver and skin S9 and human plasma were used to determine the in vitro rates of clearance (CL_int) of a series of compounds, with a range of 2-11 carbons on the acid or alcohol moiety and branching at the C2 position. The impact of carbon chain length on in vitro CL_int was most prominent for the liver metabolism of esters of EH, while for in vitro skin metabolism it was greater for esters of EHA. The position of the branching also impacted the liver hydrolysis rates, especially for the C3, C4, and C5 esters with lower CL_{int in vitro} rates for esters of EHA relative to those of EH. When the in vitro intrinsic clearance rates were scaled to in vivo rates of hepatic clearance, all compounds approximated the rate for hepatic blood flow, mitigating this dependence of metabolism on structure. This work shows how structural changes to the molecule can affect in vitro metabolism and, furthermore, allows for an estimation of the in vivo metabolism.

Use of in vitro metabolism and biokinetics assays to refine predicted in vivo and in vitro internal exposure to the cosmetic ingredient, phenoxyethanol, for use in risk assessment

A novel approach was developed to help characterize the biokinetics of the cosmetic ingredient, phenoxyethanol, to help assess the safety of the parent and its major stable metabolite. In the first step of this non-animal tiered approach, primary human hepatocytes were used to confirm or refute in silico predicted metabolites, and elucidate the intrinsic clearance of phenoxyethanol. A key result was the identification of the major metabolite, phenoxyacetic acid (PAA), the exposure to which in the kidney was subsequently predicted to far exceed that of phenoxyethanol in blood or other tissues. Therefore, a novel aspect of this approach was to measure in the subsequent step the formation of PAA in the cells dosed with phenoxyethanol that were used to provide points of departure (PoDs) and express the intracellular exposure as the Cmax and AUC24. This enabled the calculation of the intracellular concentrations of parent and metabolite at the PoD in the cells used to derive this value. These concentrations can be compared with in vivo tissue levels to conclude on the safety margin. The lessons from this case study will help to inform the design of other non-animal safety assessments.

Demonstration of the first-pass metabolism in the skin of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, using the Chip2 skin-liver microphysiological model

We used TissUse's HUMIMIC Chip2 microfluidic model, incorporating reconstructed skin models and liver spheroids, to investigate the impact of consumer-relevant application scenarios on the metabolic fate of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). After a single topical or systemic application of AHT to Chip2 models, medium was analysed for parent and metabolites over 5 days. The metabolic profile of a high dose (resulting in a circuit concentration of 100 μM based on 100% bioavailability) of AHT was the same after systemic and topical application to 96-well EpiDerm™ models. Additional experiments indicated that metabolic capacity of EpiDerm™ models were saturated at this dose. At 2.5 μM, concentrations of AHT and several of its metabolites differed between application routes. Topical application resulted in a higher C_max and a 327% higher area under the curve (AUC) of N-acetyl-AHT, indicating a first-pass effect in the EpiDerm™ models. In accordance with in vivo observations, there was a concomitant decrease in the C_max and AUC of AHT-O-sulphate after topical, compared with systemic application. A similar alteration in metabolite ratios was observed using a 24-well full-thickness skin model, EpiDermFT™, indicating that a first-pass effect was also possible to detect in a more complex model. In addition, washing the EpiDermFT™ after 30 min, thus reflecting consumer use, decreased the systemic exposure to AHT and its metabolites. In conclusion, the skin-liver Chip2 model can be used to (a) recapitulate the first-pass effect of the skin and alterations in the metabolite profile of AHT observed in vivo and (b) provide consumer-relevant data regarding leave-on/rinse-off products.

Metabolism and plasma protein binding of 16 straight- and branched-chain parabens in in vitro liver and skin models

Parabens are alkyl esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HBA), with short-chain parabens used as antimicrobials in cosmetics. We investigated the impact of chain structure on skin and liver metabolism. Incubations with primary human hepatocytes and human liver S9 indicated that methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butylparaben were rapidly metabolized to similar metabolites, including 4-HBA plus the corresponding alcohols. Liver and EpiSkin™ S9 were used to investigate the metabolism of 16 short and long straight- and branched-chain parabens. The rate of hydrolysis generally decreased with increasing chain length in liver S9, whereas the reverse was true for EpiSkin™ S9. Chain length also correlated with the number of metabolites, with more oxidized metabolites detected from longer chain parabens. The identity of the alcohol group impacted metabolism the most, in terms of the rate of metabolism and the contribution of cofactors. The majority of parabens (13/16) exhibited high plasma protein binding (PPB) (>90%); whereas, 4-HBA PPB was 38%. PPB was related to the LogP of the parabens. In conclusion, the major and common paraben metabolite in PHH, liver S9 and EpiSkin™ S9 was 4-HBA. The rate of metabolism, type of metabolite and contribution of hydrolysis was tissue-specific (liver, skin) and was influenced by the chain length (and hence LogP), structural isomeric form (straight vs branched), and/or the identity of the alkyl group. SHORT ABSTRACT: We investigated how the chain structure of parabens affects their metabolism by liver and EpiSkin™ S9. The major and common metabolite in primary human hepatocytes, liver S9 and EpiSkin™ S9 was 4-HBA plus the corresponding alcohols. The rate of metabolism, type of metabolite and contribution of hydrolysis was tissue-specific and influenced by the chain length, structural isomeric form (straight vs branched), and/or the identity of the alkyl group. Most parabens exhibited high PPB (>90%), whereas the PPB of 4-HBA was 38%.