Next generation risk assessment: an ab initio case study to assess the systemic safety of the cosmetic ingredient, benzyl salicylate, after dermal exposure

We performed an ab initio next-generation risk assessment (NGRA) for a fragrance ingredient, benzyl salicylate (BSal), to demonstrate how cosmetic ingredients can be evaluated for systemic toxicity endpoints based on non-animal approaches. New approach methodologies (NAMs) used to predict the internal exposure included skin absorption assays, hepatocyte metabolism, and physiologically based pharmacokinetic (PBPK) modeling, and potential toxicodynamic effects were assessed using pharmacology profiling, ToxProfiler cell stress assay, transcriptomics in HepG2 and MCF-7 cells, ReproTracker developmental and reproductive toxicology (DART) assays, and cytotoxicity assays in human kidney cells. The outcome of the NGRA was compared to that of the traditional risk assessment approach based on animal data. The identification of the toxicologically critical entity was a critical step that directed the workflow and the selection of chemicals for PBPK modeling and testing in bioassays. The traditional risk assessment and NGRA identified salicylic acid (SA) as the "toxdriver." A deterministic PBPK model for a single-day application of 1.54 g face cream containing 0.5% BSal estimated the Cmax for BSal (1 nM) to be much lower than that of its major in vitro metabolite, SA (93.2 nM). Therefore, SA was tested using toxicodynamics bioassays. The lowest points of departure (PoDs) were obtained from the toxicogenomics assays. The interpretation of these results by two companies and methods were similar (SA only results in significant gene deregulation in HepG2 cells), but PoD differed (213 μM and 10.6 µM). A probabilistic PBPK model for repeated applications of the face cream estimated the highest Cmax of SA to be 630 nM. The resulting margins of internal exposure (MoIE) using the PoDs were 338 and 16, which were more conservative than those derived from external exposure and in vivo PoDs (margin of safety values were 9,705). In conclusion, both traditional and ab initio NGRA approaches concluded that the daily application of BSal in a cosmetic leave-on face cream at 0.5% is safe for humans. The processing and interpretation of toxicogenomics data can lead to different PoDs, which can subsequently affect the calculation of the MoIE. This case study supports the use of NAMs in a tiered NGRA ab initio approach.

Identification of dihydromyricetin as a natural DNA methylation inhibitor with rejuvenating activity in human skin

Changes in DNA methylation patterning have been reported to be a key hallmark of aged human skin. The altered DNA methylation patterns are correlated with deregulated gene expression and impaired tissue functionality, leading to the well-known skin aging phenotype. Searching for small molecules, which correct the aged methylation pattern therefore represents a novel and attractive strategy for the identification of anti-aging compounds. DNMT1 maintains epigenetic information by copying methylation patterns from the parental (methylated) strand to the newly synthesized strand after DNA replication. We hypothesized that a modest inhibition of this process promotes the restoration of the ground-state epigenetic pattern, thereby inducing rejuvenating effects. In this study, we screened a library of 1800 natural substances and 640 FDA-approved drugs and identified the well-known antioxidant and anti-inflammatory molecule dihydromyricetin (DHM) as an inhibitor of the DNA methyltransferase DNMT1. DHM is the active ingredient of several plants with medicinal use and showed robust inhibition of DNMT1 in biochemical assays. We also analyzed the effect of DHM in cultivated keratinocytes by array-based methylation profiling and observed a moderate, but significant global hypomethylation effect upon treatment. To further characterize DHM-induced methylation changes, we used published DNA methylation clocks and newly established age predictors to demonstrate that the DHM-induced methylation change is associated with a reduction in the biological age of the cells. Further studies also revealed re-activation of age-dependently hypermethylated and silenced genes in vivo and a reduction in age-dependent epidermal thinning in a 3-dimensional skin model. Our findings thus establish DHM as an epigenetic inhibitor with rejuvenating effects for aged human skin.

Suitability of different reconstructed human skin models in the skin and liver Chip2 microphysiological model to investigate the kinetics and first-pass skin metabolism of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene

The HUMIMIC skin-liver Chip2 microphysiological systems model using the epidermal model, EpiDerm™, was reported previously to mimic application route-dependent metabolism of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). Therefore, we evaluated the use of alternative skin models-SkinEthic™, EpiDermFT™ and PhenionFT™-for the same purpose. In static incubations, AHT permeation was similar using SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models. Older Day 21 (D21) SkinEthic™ models with a thicker stratum corneum did not exhibit a greater barrier to AHT (overall permeation was the same in D17 and D21 models). All epidermal models metabolised AHT, with the EpiDerm™ exhibiting higher N-acetylation than SkinEthic™ models. AHT metabolism by D21 SkinEthic™ models was lower than that by D17 SkinEthic™ and EpiDerm™ models, thus a thicker stratum corneum was associated with fewer viable cells and a lower metabolic activity. AHT permeation was much slower using PhenionFT™ compared to epidermal models and better reflected permeation of AHT through native human skin. This model also extensively metabolised AHT to N-acetyl-AHT. After a single topical or systemic application of AHT to Chip2 model with PhenionFT™, medium was analysed for parent and metabolites over 5 days. The first-pass metabolism of AHT was demonstrated, and the introduction of a wash step after 30 min decreased the exposure to AHT and its metabolites by 33% and 40%-43%, respectively. In conclusion, epidermal and FT skin models used in the Chip2 can mimic the first-pass skin metabolism of AHT. This highlights the flexibility of the Chip2 to incorporate different skin models according to the purpose.

A novel three-dimensional Nrf2 reporter epidermis model for skin sensitization assessment

Skin sensitization assessment has progressed from the use of animal models towards the application of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs). Several skin sensitization NAMs are accepted for regulatory use, but a majority relies on submerged in vitro cell cultures that limit their applicability domain, posing challenges for testing hydrophobic chemicals and mixtures. A newly developed three-dimensional (3D) Nrf2 reporter epidermis model for skin sensitization assessment is reported. This NAM may help to overcome these limitations. The NAM combines the in vivo-like biology and exposure conditions of 3D epidermis models with the reliability, convenience, and cost-effectiveness of secreted reporter gene technology. The Keap1-Nrf2-ARE pathway was chosen as the reporter gene read-out, as it is induced by most skin sensitizers and already adopted in OECD Test guideline 442D. Immortalized human primary keratinocytes (Ker-CT) were stably transfected with the pIGB-Nrf2-SEAP vector to construct a Nrf2 reporter cell line. Ker-CT Nrf2 reporter cells showed negligible basal expression of the Secreted Embryonic Alkaline Phosphatase (SEAP) reporter, which was induced 13.5-fold by exposure to the skin sensitizer cinnamic aldehyde (CA). Co-exposure to CA and the Nrf2 inhibitor glucocorticoid clobetasol propionate significantly suppressed the CA-induced SEAP expression, confirming dependance of the SEAP expression on Nrf2 activation. Using air-liquid interface and animal constituent free culture conditions, the Ker-CT Nrf2 reporter cells differentiated to stratified 3D epidermis models with an in vivo-like skin architecture and functional skin barrier. Evaluation of a Ker-CT Nrf2 reporter cell-based 2D assay by testing 10 conventional reference chemicals showed a predictive accuracy for skin sensitization potential of 80% and 70% compared to LLNA and human data in two independent laboratories and a high intra- and interlaboratory reproducibility. Moreover, the 3D epidermis models predicted 3 sensitizing and 2 non-sensitizing reference chemicals correctly in a first proof-of-concept study. Further investigations foresee the testing of additional chemicals, including hydrophobic compounds and mixtures to confirm the potential of the 3D epidermis models to broaden the applicability domain for NAM-based skin sensitization assessment.

Application of a skin and liver Chip2 microphysiological model to investigate the route-dependent toxicokinetics and toxicodynamics of consumer-relevant doses of genistein

The HUMMIC skin-liver Chip2 microphysiological system using EpiDerm™ and HepaRG and stellate liver spheroids was used to evaluate the route-specific metabolism and toxicodynamic effects of genistein. Human-relevant exposure levels were compared: 60 nM representing the plasma concentration expected after topical application of a cosmetic product and 1 μM representing measured plasma concentrations after ingesting soya products. Genistein was applied as single and repeated topical and/or systemic doses. The kinetics of genistein and its metabolites were measured over 5 days. Toxicodynamic effects were measured using transcriptional analyses of skin and liver organoids harvested on Days 2 and 5. Route-specific differences in genistein's bioavailability were observed, with first-pass metabolism (sulfation) occurring in the skin after topical application. Only repeated application of 1 μM, resembling daily oral intake of soya products, induced statistically significant changes in gene expression in liver organoids only. This was concomitant with a much higher systemic concentration of genistein which was not reached in any other dosing scenario. This suggests that single or low doses of genistein are rapidly metabolised which limits its toxicodynamic effects on the liver and skin. Therefore, by facilitating longer and/or repeated applications, the Chip2 can support safety assessments by linking relevant gene modulation with systemically available parent or metabolite(s). The rate of metabolism was in accordance with the short half-life observed in in vivo in humans, thus supporting the relevance of the findings. In conclusion, the skin-liver Chip2 provides route-specific information on metabolic fate and toxicodynamics that may be relevant to safety assessment.

Evaluation of new alternative methods for the identification of estrogenic, androgenic and steroidogenic effects: a comparative in vitro/in silico study

A suite of in vitro assays and in silico models were evaluated to identify which best detected the endocrine-disrupting (ED) potential of 10 test chemicals according to their estrogenic, androgenic and steroidogenic (EAS) potential compared to the outcomes from ToxCast. In vitro methods included receptor-binding, CALUX transactivation, H295R steroidogenesis, aromatase activity inhibition and the Yeast oestrogen (YES) and Yeast androgen screen (YAS) assays. The impact of metabolism was also evaluated. The YES/YAS assays exhibited a high sensitivity for ER effects and, despite some challenges in predicting AR effects, is a good initial screening assay. Results from receptor-binding and CALUX assays generally correlated and were in accordance with classifications based on ToxCast assays. ER agonism and AR antagonism of benzyl butyl phthalate were abolished when CALUX assays included liver S9. In silico final calls were mostly in agreement with the in vitro assays, and predicted ER and AR effects well. The efficiency of the in silico models (reflecting applicability domains or inconclusive results) was 43-100%. The percentage of correct calls for ER (50-100%), AR (57-100%) and aromatase (33-100%) effects when compared to the final ToxCast call covered a wide range from highly reliable to less reliable models. In conclusion, Danish (Q)SAR, Opera, ADMET Lab LBD and ProToxII models demonstrated the best overall performance for ER and AR effects. These can be combined with the YES/YAS assays in an initial screen of chemicals in the early tiers of an NGRA to inform on the MoA and the design of mechanistic in vitro assays used later in the assessment. Inhibition of aromatase was best predicted by the Vega, AdmetLab and ProToxII models. Other mechanisms and exposure should be considered when making a conclusion with respect to ED effects.

Development of a microphysiological skin-liver-thyroid Chip3 model and its application to evaluate the effects on thyroid hormones of topically applied cosmetic ingredients under consumer-relevant conditions

All cosmetic ingredients registered in Europe must be evaluated for their safety using non-animal methods. Microphysiological systems (MPS) offer a more complex higher tier model to evaluate chemicals. Having established a skin and liver HUMIMIC Chip2 model demonstrating how dosing scenarios impact the kinetics of chemicals, we investigated whether thyroid follicles could be incorporated to evaluate the potential of topically applied chemicals to cause endocrine disruption. This combination of models in the HUMIMIC Chip3 is new; therefore, we describe here how it was optimized using two chemicals known to inhibit thyroid production, daidzein and genistein. The MPS was comprised of Phenion^® Full Thickness skin, liver spheroids and thyroid follicles co-cultured in the TissUse HUMIMIC Chip3. Endocrine disruption effects were determined according to changes in thyroid hormones, thyroxine (T₄) and 3,3',5-triiodothyronine (T₃). A main part of the Chip3 model optimization was the replacement of freshly isolated thyroid follicles with thyrocyte-derived follicles. These were used in static incubations to demonstrate the inhibition of T₄ and T₃ production by genistein and daidzein over 4 days. Daidzein exhibited a lower inhibitory activity than genistein and both inhibitory activities were decreased after a 24 h preincubation with liver spheroids, indicating metabolism was via detoxification pathways. The skin-liver-thyroid Chip3 model was used to determine a consumer-relevant exposure to daidzein present in a body lotion based on thyroid effects. A "safe dose" of 0.235 μg/cm² i.e., 0.047% applied in 0.5 mg/cm² of body lotion was the highest concentration of daidzein which does not result in changes in T₃ and T₄ levels. This concentration correlated well with the value considered safe by regulators. In conclusion, the Chip3 model enabled the incorporation of the relevant exposure route (dermal), metabolism in the skin and liver, and the bioactivity endpoint (assessment of hormonal balance i.e., thyroid effects) into a single model. These conditions are closer to those in vivo than 2D cell/tissue assays lacking metabolic function. Importantly, it also allowed the assessment of repeated doses of chemical and a direct comparison of systemic and tissue concentrations with toxicodynamic effects over time, which is more realistic and relevant for safety assessment.

Use of in vitro metabolism and biokinetics assays to refine predicted in vivo and in vitro internal exposure to the cosmetic ingredient, phenoxyethanol, for use in risk assessment

A novel approach was developed to help characterize the biokinetics of the cosmetic ingredient, phenoxyethanol, to help assess the safety of the parent and its major stable metabolite. In the first step of this non-animal tiered approach, primary human hepatocytes were used to confirm or refute in silico predicted metabolites, and elucidate the intrinsic clearance of phenoxyethanol. A key result was the identification of the major metabolite, phenoxyacetic acid (PAA), the exposure to which in the kidney was subsequently predicted to far exceed that of phenoxyethanol in blood or other tissues. Therefore, a novel aspect of this approach was to measure in the subsequent step the formation of PAA in the cells dosed with phenoxyethanol that were used to provide points of departure (PoDs) and express the intracellular exposure as the Cmax and AUC24. This enabled the calculation of the intracellular concentrations of parent and metabolite at the PoD in the cells used to derive this value. These concentrations can be compared with in vivo tissue levels to conclude on the safety margin. The lessons from this case study will help to inform the design of other non-animal safety assessments.

Use of Physiologically-Based Kinetics Modelling to Reliably Predict Internal Concentrations of the UV Filter, Homosalate, After Repeated Oral and Topical Application

Ethical and legal considerations have led to increased use of non-animal methods to evaluate the safety of chemicals for human use. We describe the development and qualification of a physiologically-based kinetics (PBK) model for the cosmetic UV filter ingredient, homosalate, to support its safety without the need of generating further animal data. The intravenous (IV) rat PBK model, using PK-Sim^®, was developed and validated using legacy in vivo data generated prior to the 2013 EU animal-testing ban. Input data included literature or predicted physicochemical and pharmacokinetic properties. The refined IV rat PBK model was subject to sensitivity analysis to identify homosalate-specific sensitive parameters impacting the prediction of C_max (more sensitive than AUC_(0-∞)). These were then considered, together with population modeling, to calculate the confidence interval (CI) 95% C_max and AUC_(0-∞). Final model parameters were established by visual inspection of the simulations and biological plausibility. The IV rat model was extrapolated to oral administration, and used to estimate internal exposures to doses tested in an oral repeated dose toxicity study. Next, a human PBK dermal model was developed using measured human in vitro ADME data and a module to represent the dermal route. Model performance was confirmed by comparing predicted and measured values from a US-FDA clinical trial (Identifier: NCT03582215, https://clinicaltrials.gov/). Final exposure estimations were obtained in a virtual population and considering the in vitro and input parameter uncertainty. This model was then used to estimate the C_max and AUC_(0–24 h) of homosalate according to consumer use in a sunscreen. The developed rat and human PBK models had a good biological basis and reproduced in vivo legacy rat and human clinical kinetics data. They also complied with the most recent WHO and OECD recommendations for assessing the confidence level. In conclusion, we have developed a PBK model which predicted reasonably well the internal exposure of homosalate according to different exposure scenarios with a medium to high level of confidence. In the absence of in vivo data, such human PBK models will be the heart of future completely non-animal risk assessments; therefore, valid approaches will be key in gaining their regulatory acceptance.

Clinical Trial Registration: https://clinicaltrials.gov/, identifier, NCT03582215

A 10-step framework for use of read-across (RAX) in next generation risk assessment (NGRA) for cosmetics safety assessment

This paper presents a 10-step read-across (RAX) framework for use in cases where a threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach to cosmetics safety assessment is not possible. RAX builds on established approaches that have existed for more than two decades using chemical properties and in silico toxicology predictions, by further substantiating hypotheses on toxicological similarity of substances, and integrating new approach methodologies (NAM) in the biological and kinetic domains. NAM include new types of data on biological observations from, for example, in vitro assays, toxicogenomics, metabolomics, receptor binding screens and uses physiologically-based kinetic (PBK) modelling to inform about systemic exposure. NAM data can help to substantiate a mode/mechanism of action (MoA), and if similar chemicals can be shown to work by a similar MoA, a next generation risk assessment (NGRA) may be performed with acceptable confidence for a data-poor target substance with no or inadequate safety data, based on RAX approaches using data-rich analogue(s), and taking account of potency or kinetic/dynamic differences.

New framework for a non-animal approach adequately assures the safety of cosmetic ingredients - A case study on caffeine

This case study on the model substance caffeine demonstrates the viability of a 10-step read-across (RAX) framework in practice. New approach methodologies (NAM), including RAX and physiologically-based kinetic (PBK) modelling were used to assess the consumer safety of caffeine. Appropriate animal systemic toxicity data were used from the most relevant RAX analogue while assuming that no suitable animal toxicity data were available for caffeine. Based on structural similarities, three primary metabolites of the target chemical caffeine (theophylline, theobromine and paraxanthine) were selected as its most relevant analogues, to estimate a point of departure in order to support a next generation risk assessment (NGRA). On the basis of the pivotal mode of action (MOA) of caffeine and other methylxanthines, theophylline appeared to be the most potent and suitable analogue. A worst-case aggregate exposure assessment determined consumer exposure to caffeine from different sources, such as cosmetics and food/drinks. Using a PBK model to estimate human blood concentrations following exposure to caffeine, an acceptable Margin of Internal Exposure (MOIE) of 27-fold was derived on the basis of a RAX using theophylline animal data, which suggests that the NGRA approach for caffeine is sufficiently conservative to protect human health.

Demonstration of the first-pass metabolism in the skin of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, using the Chip2 skin-liver microphysiological model

We used TissUse's HUMIMIC Chip2 microfluidic model, incorporating reconstructed skin models and liver spheroids, to investigate the impact of consumer-relevant application scenarios on the metabolic fate of the hair dye, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene (AHT). After a single topical or systemic application of AHT to Chip2 models, medium was analysed for parent and metabolites over 5 days. The metabolic profile of a high dose (resulting in a circuit concentration of 100 μM based on 100% bioavailability) of AHT was the same after systemic and topical application to 96-well EpiDerm™ models. Additional experiments indicated that metabolic capacity of EpiDerm™ models were saturated at this dose. At 2.5 μM, concentrations of AHT and several of its metabolites differed between application routes. Topical application resulted in a higher C_max and a 327% higher area under the curve (AUC) of N-acetyl-AHT, indicating a first-pass effect in the EpiDerm™ models. In accordance with in vivo observations, there was a concomitant decrease in the C_max and AUC of AHT-O-sulphate after topical, compared with systemic application. A similar alteration in metabolite ratios was observed using a 24-well full-thickness skin model, EpiDermFT™, indicating that a first-pass effect was also possible to detect in a more complex model. In addition, washing the EpiDermFT™ after 30 min, thus reflecting consumer use, decreased the systemic exposure to AHT and its metabolites. In conclusion, the skin-liver Chip2 model can be used to (a) recapitulate the first-pass effect of the skin and alterations in the metabolite profile of AHT observed in vivo and (b) provide consumer-relevant data regarding leave-on/rinse-off products.

Internal Threshold of Toxicological Concern (iTTC): Where We Are Today and What Is Possible in the Near Future

The Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC) is a risk assessment tool for evaluating low-level exposure to chemicals with limited toxicological data. A next step in the ongoing development of TTC is to extend this concept further so that it can be applied to internal exposures. This refinement of TTC based on plasma concentrations, referred to as internal TTC (iTTC), attempts to convert the chemical-specific external NOAELs (in mg/kg/day) in the TTC database to an estimated internal exposure. A multi-stakeholder collaboration formed, with the aim of establishing an iTTC suitable for human safety risk assessment. Here, we discuss the advances and future directions for the iTTC project, including: (1) results from the systematic literature search for metabolism and pharmacokinetic data for the 1,251 chemicals in the iTTC database; (2) selection of ~350 chemicals that will be included in the final iTTC; (3) an overview of the in vitro caco-2 and in vitro hepatic metabolism studies currently being generated for the iTTC chemicals; (4) demonstrate how PBPK modeling is being utilized to convert a chemical-specific external NOAEL to an internal exposure; (5) perspective on the next steps in the iTTC project.

Characterization of application scenario-dependent pharmacokinetics and pharmacodynamic properties of permethrin and hyperforin in a dynamic skin and liver multi-organ-chip model

Microphysiological systems (MPS) aim to mimic the dynamic microenvironment and the interaction between tissues. While MPS exist for investigating pharmaceuticals, the applicability of MPS for cosmetics ingredients is yet to be evaluated. The HUMIMIC Chip2 ("Chip2″), is the first multi-organ chip technology to incorporate skin models, allowing for the topical route to be tested. Therefore, we have used this model to analyze the impact of different exposure scenarios on the pharmacokinetics and pharmacodynamics of two topically exposed chemicals, hyperforin and permethrin. The Chip2 incorporated reconstructed human epidermis models (EpiDerm™) and HepaRG-stellate spheroids. Initial experiments using static incubations of single organoids helped determine the optimal dose. In the Chip2 studies, parent and metabolites were analyzed in the circuit over 5 days after application of single and repeated topical or systemic doses. The gene expression of relevant xenobiotic metabolizing enzymes in liver spheroids was measured to reflect toxicodynamics effects of the compounds in liver. The results show that 1) metabolic capacities of EpiDerm™ and liver spheroids were maintained over five days; 2) EpiDerm™ model barrier function remained intact; 3) repeated application of compounds resulted in higher concentrations of parent chemicals and most metabolites compared to single application; 4) compound-specific gene induction e.g. induction of CYP3A4 by hyperforin depended on the application route and frequency; 5) different routes of application influenced the systemic concentrations of both parents and metabolites in the chip over the course of the experiment; 6) there was excellent intra- and inter-lab reproducibility. For permethrin, a process similar to the excretion in a human in vivo study could be simulated which was remarkably comparable to the in vivo situation. These results support the use of the Chip2 model to provide information on parent and metabolite disposition that may be relevant to risk assessment of topically applied cosmetics ingredients.

Metabolism and plasma protein binding of 16 straight- and branched-chain parabens in in vitro liver and skin models

Parabens are alkyl esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (4-HBA), with short-chain parabens used as antimicrobials in cosmetics. We investigated the impact of chain structure on skin and liver metabolism. Incubations with primary human hepatocytes and human liver S9 indicated that methyl-, ethyl-, propyl- and butylparaben were rapidly metabolized to similar metabolites, including 4-HBA plus the corresponding alcohols. Liver and EpiSkin™ S9 were used to investigate the metabolism of 16 short and long straight- and branched-chain parabens. The rate of hydrolysis generally decreased with increasing chain length in liver S9, whereas the reverse was true for EpiSkin™ S9. Chain length also correlated with the number of metabolites, with more oxidized metabolites detected from longer chain parabens. The identity of the alcohol group impacted metabolism the most, in terms of the rate of metabolism and the contribution of cofactors. The majority of parabens (13/16) exhibited high plasma protein binding (PPB) (>90%); whereas, 4-HBA PPB was 38%. PPB was related to the LogP of the parabens. In conclusion, the major and common paraben metabolite in PHH, liver S9 and EpiSkin™ S9 was 4-HBA. The rate of metabolism, type of metabolite and contribution of hydrolysis was tissue-specific (liver, skin) and was influenced by the chain length (and hence LogP), structural isomeric form (straight vs branched), and/or the identity of the alkyl group. SHORT ABSTRACT: We investigated how the chain structure of parabens affects their metabolism by liver and EpiSkin™ S9. The major and common metabolite in primary human hepatocytes, liver S9 and EpiSkin™ S9 was 4-HBA plus the corresponding alcohols. The rate of metabolism, type of metabolite and contribution of hydrolysis was tissue-specific and influenced by the chain length, structural isomeric form (straight vs branched), and/or the identity of the alkyl group. Most parabens exhibited high PPB (>90%), whereas the PPB of 4-HBA was 38%.

Measurement of the penetration of 56 cosmetic relevant chemicals into and through human skin using a standardized protocol

OECD test guideline 428 compliant protocol using human skin was used to test the penetration of 56 cosmetic‐relevant chemicals. The penetration of finite doses (10 μL/cm²) of chemicals was measured over 24 hours. The dermal delivery (DD) (amount in the epidermis, dermis and receptor fluid [RF]) ranged between 0.03 ± 0.02 and 72.61 ± 8.89 μg/cm². The DD of seven chemicals was comparable with in vivo values. The DD was mainly accounted for by the amount in the RF, although there were some exceptions, particularly of low DD chemicals. While there was some variability due to cell outliers and donor variation, the overall reproducibility was very good. As six chemicals had to be applied in 100% ethanol due to low aqueous solubility, we compared the penetration of four chemicals with similar physicochemical properties applied in ethanol and phosphate‐buffered saline. Of these, the DD of hydrocortisone was the same in both solvents, while the DD of propylparaben, geraniol and benzophenone was lower in ethanol. Some chemicals displayed an infinite dose kinetic profile; whereas, the cumulative absorption of others into the RF reflected the finite dosing profile, possibly due to chemical volatility, total absorption, chemical precipitation through vehicle evaporation or protein binding (or a combination of these). These investigations provide a substantial and consistent set of skin penetration data that can help improve the understanding of skin penetration, as well as improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models.

The penetration of 56 chemicals was tested in human skin using a standard protocol. Dermal delivery correlated with the amount in the receptor fluid (RF). The impact of solvent on penetration was evaluated. Despite finite doses being applied, different profiles of cumulative absorption kinetics into the RF were observed. These data may help understand skin penetration and improve the prediction capacity of in silico skin penetration models.

Comparison of the metabolism of 10 cosmetics-relevant chemicals in EpiSkin™ S9 subcellular fractions and in vitro human skin explants

An understanding of the bioavailability of topically applied cosmetics ingredients is key to predicting their local skin and systemic toxicity and making a safety assessment. We investigated whether short-term incubations with S9 from the reconstructed epidermal skin model, EpiSkin™, would give an indication of the rate of chemical metabolism and produce similar metabolites to those formed in incubations with human skin explants. Both have advantages: EpiSkin™ S9 is a higher-throughput assay, while the human skin explant model represents a longer incubation duration (24 hours) model integrating cutaneous distribution with metabolite formation. Here, we compared the metabolism of 10 chemicals (caffeine, vanillin, cinnamyl alcohol, propylparaben, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, resorcinol, 4-chloroaniline, 2-amino-3-methyl-3H-imidazo[4,5-F]quinoline and 2-acetyl aminofluorene) in both models. Both models were shown to have functional Phase 1 and 2 enzymes, including cytochrome P450 activities. There was a good concordance between the models with respect to the level of metabolism (stable vs. slowly vs. extensively metabolized chemicals) and major early metabolites produced for eight chemicals. Discordant results for two chemicals were attributed to a lack of the appropriate cofactor (NADP⁺ ) in S9 incubations (cinnamyl alcohol) and protein binding influencing chemical uptake in skin explants (4-chloroaniline). These data support the use of EpiSkin™ S9 as a screening assay to provide an initial indication of the metabolic stability of a chemical applied topically. If required, chemicals that are not metabolized by EpiSkin™ S9 can be tested in longer-term incubations with in vitro human explant skin to determine whether it is slowly metabolized or not metabolized at all.

Skin Doctor: Machine Learning Models for Skin Sensitization Prediction that Provide Estimates and Indicators of Prediction Reliability

The ability to predict the skin sensitization potential of small organic molecules is of high importance to the development and safe application of cosmetics, drugs and pesticides. One of the most widely accepted methods for predicting this hazard is the local lymph node assay (LLNA). The goal of this work was to develop in silico models for the prediction of the skin sensitization potential of small molecules that go beyond the state of the art, with larger LLNA data sets and, most importantly, a robust and intuitive definition of the applicability domain, paired with additional indicators of the reliability of predictions. We explored a large variety of molecular descriptors and fingerprints in combination with random forest and support vector machine classifiers. The most suitable models were tested on holdout data, on which they yielded competitive performance (Matthews correlation coefficients up to 0.52; accuracies up to 0.76; areas under the receiver operating characteristic curves up to 0.83). The most favorable models are available via a public web service that, in addition to predictions, provides assessments of the applicability domain and indicators of the reliability of the individual predictions.

Dermal absorption study OECD TG 428 mass balance recommendations based on the EFSA database

The European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) guidance (EFSA, 2017) for dermal absorption (DA) studies recommends stringent mass balance (MB) limits of 95-105%. EFSA suggested that test material can be lost after penetration and requires that for chemicals with <5% absorption the non-recovered material must be added to the absorbed dose if MB is <95%. This has huge consequences for low absorption pesticides. Indeed, one third of the MBs in the EFSA DA database are outside the refined criteria. This is also true for DA data generated by Cosmetics Europe (Gregoire et al., 2019), indicating that this criterion is often not achieved even when using highly standardized protocols. While EFSA hypothesizes that modern analytical and pipetting techniques would enable to achieve this criterion, no scientific basis was provided. We describe how protocol procedures impact MB and evaluate the EFSA DA database to demonstrate that MB is subject to random variation. Generic application of "the addition rule" skews the measured data and increases the DA estimate, which results in unnecessary risk assessment failure. In conclusion, "missing material" is just a random negative deviation to the nominal dose. We propose a data-driven MB criterion of 90-110%, fully in line with OECD recommendations.

Challenges in working towards an internal threshold of toxicological concern (iTTC) for use in the safety assessment of cosmetics: Discussions from the Cosmetics Europe iTTC Working Group workshop

The Threshold of Toxicological Concern (TTC) is an important risk assessment tool which establishes acceptable low-level exposure values to be applied to chemicals with limited toxicological data. One of the logical next steps in the continued evolution of TTC is to develop this concept further so that it is representative of internal exposures (TTC based on plasma concentration). An internal TTC (iTTC) would provide threshold values that could be utilized in exposure-based safety assessments. As part of a Cosmetics Europe (CosEu) research program, CosEu has initiated a project that is working towards the development of iTTCs that can be used for the human safety assessment. Knowing that the development of an iTTC is an ambitious and broad-spanning topic, CosEu organized a Working Group comprised a balance of multiple stakeholders (cosmetics and chemical industries, the EPA and JRC and academia) with relevant experience and expertise and workshop to critically evaluate the requirements to establish an iTTC. Outcomes from the workshop included an evaluation on the current state of the science for iTTC, the overall iTTC strategy, selection of chemical databases, capture and curation of chemical information, ADME and repeat dose data, expected challenges, as well as next steps and ongoing work.

Use of a Simple in vitro Test to Assess Loss of Chemical due to Volatility during an in vitro Human Skin Absorption Study

BACKGROUND

We tested the cutaneous distribution of 50 chemicals in frozen human skin. The mass balance (MB) values for 48% of the chemicals were < 90%, possibly due to evaporation.

METHODS

We confirmed the reduction in MB was due to evaporation for two chemicals tested in skin penetration experiments using a carbon filter above the skin to trap airborne chemical. An in vitro assay was used to predict the reduction in MB due to evaporation by comparing the recovery of chemicals after 4 h of incubation at room temperature in open and closed vials.

RESULTS

Evaporative losses in vitro correlated well with measured MBs (i.e., < 90%) in skin penetration experiments (R2 = 0.81). There was a correlation of the MB with the vapour pressure (VP) which could be used to group chemicals according to their likelihood to evaporate during the course of a skin penetration study. There was also a correlation of MB with Henry's law constants, melting and boiling points.

CONCLUSION

Our data support the use of a quick and simple test for volatility to account for the loss of MB in skin penetration experiment due to volatility. The best parameter to indicate the potential of a chemical to evaporate is the VP.

Comparison of the metabolism of 10 chemicals in human and pig skin explants

Skin metabolism is important to consider when assessing local toxicity and/or penetration of chemicals and their metabolites. If human skin supply is limited, pig skin can be used as an alternative. To identify any species differences, we have investigated the metabolism of 10 chemicals in a pig and human skin explant model. Phase I metabolic pathways in skin from both species included those known to occur via cytochrome P450s, esterases, alcohol dehydrogenases and aldehyde dehydrogenases. Common Phase II pathways were glucuronidation and sulfation but other conjugation pathways were also identified. Chemicals not metabolized by pig skin (caffeine, IQ and 4‐chloroaniline) were also not metabolized by human skin. Six chemicals metabolized by pig skin were metabolized to a similar extent (percentage parent remaining) by human skin. Human skin metabolites were also detected in pig skin incubations, except for one unidentified minor vanillin metabolite. Three cinnamyl alcohol metabolites were unique to pig skin but represented minor metabolites. There were notable species differences in the relative amounts of common metabolites. The difference in the abundance of the sulfate conjugates of resorcinol and 4‐amino‐3‐nitrophenol was in accordance with the known lack of aryl sulfotransferase activity in pigs. In conclusion, while qualitative comparisons of metabolic profiles were consistent between pig and human skin, there were some quantitative differences in the percentage of metabolites formed. This preliminary assessment suggests that pig skin is metabolically competent and could be a useful tool for evaluating potential first‐pass metabolism before testing in human‐derived tissues.

We have investigated the metabolism of 10 chemicals in viable pig and human skin. Phase I and II metabolic pathways were present in skin from both species. Chemicals not metabolized by pig skin were also not metabolized by human skin. Six chemicals metabolized by pig skin were also metabolized to a similar extent by human skin. Pig and human skin produced common metabolites, although some species differences were observed and as their relative amounts differed.

Comparison of protocols measuring diffusion and partition coefficients in the stratum corneum

Partition (K) and diffusion (D) coefficients are important to measure for the modelling of skin penetration of chemicals through the stratum corneum (SC). We compared the feasibility of three protocols for the testing of 50 chemicals in our main studies, using three cosmetics-relevant model chemicals with a wide range of logP values. Protocol 1: SC concentration-depth profile using tape-stripping (measures KSC/v and DSC /HSC2 , where HSC is the SC thickness); Protocol 2A: incubation of isolated SC with chemical (direct measurement of KSC/v only) and Protocol 2B: diffusion through isolated SC mounted on a Franz cell (measures KSC/v and DSC /HSC2 , and is based on Fick's laws). KSC/v values for caffeine and resorcinol using Protocol 1 and 2B were within 30% of each other, values using Protocol 2A were ~two-fold higher, and all values were within 10-fold of each other. Only indirect determination of KSC/v by Protocol 2B was different from the direct measurement of KSC/v by Protocol 2A and Protocol 1 for 7-EC. The variability of KSC/v for all three chemicals using Protocol 2B was higher compared to Protocol 1 and 2A. DSC /HSC2 values for the three chemicals were of the same order of magnitude using all three protocols. Additionally, using Protocol 1, there was very little difference between parameters measured in pig and human SC. In conclusion, KSC/v, and DSC values were comparable using different methods. Pig skin might be a good surrogate for human skin for the three chemicals tested. Copyright © 2017 The Authors Journal of Applied Toxicology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.

Gluteal and abdominal subcutaneous adipose tissue depots as stroma cell source: gluteal cells display increased adipogenic and osteogenic differentiation potentials

Human adipose-derived stroma cells (ADSCs) have successfully been employed in explorative therapeutic studies. Current evidence suggests that ADSCs are unevenly distributed in subcutaneous adipose tissue; therefore, the anatomical origin of ADSCs may influence clinical outcomes. This study was designed to investigate proliferation and differentiation capacities of ADSCs from the gluteal and abdominal depot of 8 females. All had normal BMI (22.01 ± 0.39 kg/m(2) ) and waist circumference (81.13 ± 2.33 cm). Examination by physicians and analysis of 31 laboratory parameters did not reveal possibly confounding medical disorders. Gluteal and abdominal adipose tissue was sampled by en bloc resection on day 7 (±1) after the last menses. Histological examination did not reveal significant depot-specific differences. As assessed by BrdU assay, proliferation of cells from both depots was similar after 24 h and analysis of 15 cell surface markers by flow cytometry identified the isolated cells as ADSCs, again without depot-specific differences. ADSCs from both depots differentiated poorly to chondroblasts. Gluteal ADSCs displayed significantly higher adipogenic differentiation potential than abdominal cells. Osteogenic differentiation was most pronounced in gluteal cells, whereas differentiation of abdominal ADSCs was severely impaired. Our data demonstrate a depot-specific difference in ADSC differentiation potential with abdominal cells failing to meet the criteria of multipotent ADSCs. This finding should be taken into account in future explorations of ADSC-derived therapeutic strategies.

Integrated Testing Strategies (ITS) for safety assessment

Integrated testing strategies (ITS), as opposed to single definitive tests or fixed batteries of tests, are expected to efficiently combine different information sources in a quantifiable fashion to satisfy an information need, in this case for regulatory safety assessments. With increasing awareness of the limitations of each individual tool and the development of highly targeted tests and predictions, the need for combining pieces of evidence increases. The discussions that took place during this workshop, which brought together a group of experts coming from different related areas, illustrate the current state of the art of ITS, as well as promising developments and identifiable challenges. The case of skin sensitization was taken as an example to understand how possible ITS can be constructed, optimized and validated. This will require embracing and developing new concepts such as adverse outcome pathways (AOP), advanced statistical learning algorithms and machine learning, mechanistic validation and "Good ITS Practices".

Genomic allergen rapid detection in-house validation--a proof of concept

Chemical sensitization is an adverse immunologic response to chemical substances, inducing hypersensitivity in exposed individuals. Identifying chemical sensitizers is of great importance for chemical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries, in order to prevent the use of sensitizers in consumer products. Historically, chemical sensitizers have been assessed mainly by in vivo methods, however, recently enforced European legislations urge and promote the development of animal-free test methods able to predict chemical sensitizers. Recently, we presented a predictive biomarker signature in the myeloid cell line MUTZ-3, for assessment of skin sensitizers. The identified genomic biomarkers were found to be involved in immunologically relevant pathways, induced by recognition of foreign substances and regulating dendritic cell maturation and cytoprotective mechanisms. We have developed the usage of this biomarker signature into a novel in vitro assay for assessment of chemical sensitizers, called Genomic Allergen Rapid Detection (GARD). The assay is based on chemical stimulation of MUTZ-3 cultures, using the compounds to be assayed as stimulatory agents. The readout of the assay is a transcriptional quantification of the genomic predictors, collectively termed the GARD Prediction Signature (GPS), using a complete genome expression array. Compounds are predicted as either sensitizers or nonsensitizers by a Support Vector Machine model. In this report, we provide a proof of concept for the functionality of the GARD assay by describing the classification of 26 blinded and 11 nonblinded chemicals as sensitizers or nonsensitizers. Based on these classifications, the accuracy, sensitivity, and specificity of the assay were estimated to 89, 89, and 88%, respectively.

Epigenetic regulation of depot-specific gene expression in adipose tissue

In humans, adipose tissue is distributed in subcutaneous abdominal and subcutaneous gluteal depots that comprise a variety of functional differences. Whereas energy storage in gluteal adipose tissue has been shown to mediate a protective effect, an increase of abdominal adipose tissue is associated with metabolic disorders. However, the molecular basis of depot-specific characteristics is not completely understood yet. Using array-based analyses of transcription profiles, we identified a specific set of genes that was differentially expressed between subcutaneous abdominal and gluteal adipose tissue. To investigate the role of epigenetic regulation in depot-specific gene expression, we additionally analyzed genome-wide DNA methylation patterns in abdominal and gluteal depots. By combining both data sets, we identified a highly significant set of depot-specifically expressed genes that appear to be epigenetically regulated. Interestingly, the majority of these genes form part of the homeobox gene family. Moreover, genes involved in fatty acid metabolism were also differentially expressed. Therefore we suppose that changes in gene expression profiles might account for depot-specific differences in lipid composition. Indeed, triglycerides and fatty acids of abdominal adipose tissue were more saturated compared to triglycerides and fatty acids in gluteal adipose tissue. Taken together, our results uncover clear differences between abdominal and gluteal adipose tissue on the gene expression and DNA methylation level as well as in fatty acid composition. Therefore, a detailed molecular characterization of adipose tissue depots will be essential to develop new treatment strategies for metabolic syndrome associated complications.

Development and evaluation of an in vitro skin sensitization assay based on primary monocyte-derived dendritic cells (P6376)

Allergic contact dermatitis is a delayed T-cell mediated allergic response associated with relevant social and economic impacts. Until now, animal experiments (e.g. the local lymph node assay) are supplying most of the data used to assess the sensitization potential of new chemicals. However, becoming effective in March 2013, the 7th amendment to the EU Cosmetic Directive introduced an animal testing ban for the endpoint skin sensitisation for cosmetic ingredients. In vitro alternative methods are thus being actively developed. Although promising results have been obtained with cell lines, their reduced functionality and inherent genomic instability led us to reinvestigate the use of peripheral blood monocyte-derived dendritic cells (PBMDCs) for the establishment of a reliable in vitro sensitization test. We successfully solved the issues associated with the use of primary cells (optimized cytokine concentrations, incubation time, readout, pooled vs. single donors and cytoxicity) resulting in a stable and reproducible protocol. Here, we report on the adaption of the protocol to the 96-well format, allowing for a higher and cost-effective throughput of test substances. Comparative analyses of the effect of several skin sensitizers on CD86 expression display similar results for 24- and 96-well format. Upscaling of the PBMDCs advances its applicability for the reliable detection of human skin sensitizers.

A roadmap for the development of alternative (non-animal) methods for systemic toxicity testing

Systemic toxicity testing forms the cornerstone for the safety evaluation of substances. Pressures to move from traditional animal models to novel technologies arise from various concerns, including: the need to evaluate large numbers of previously untested chemicals and new products (such as nanoparticles or cell therapies), the limited predictivity of traditional tests for human health effects, duration and costs of current approaches, and animal welfare considerations. The latter holds especially true in the context of the scheduled 2013 marketing ban on cosmetic ingredients tested for systemic toxicity. Based on a major analysis of the status of alternative methods (Adler et al., 2011) and its independent review (Hartung et al., 2011), the present report proposes a roadmap for how to overcome the acknowledged scientific gaps for the full replacement of systemic toxicity testing using animals. Five whitepapers were commissioned addressing toxicokinetics, skin sensitization, repeated-dose toxicity, carcinogenicity, and reproductive toxicity testing. An expert workshop of 35 participants from Europe and the US discussed and refined these whitepapers, which were subsequently compiled to form the present report. By prioritizing the many options to move the field forward, the expert group hopes to advance regulatory science.

Guiding principles for the implementation of non-animal safety assessment approaches for cosmetics: skin sensitisation

Characterisation of skin sensitisation potential is a key endpoint for the safety assessment of cosmetic ingredients especially when significant dermal exposure to an ingredient is expected. At present the mouse local lymph node assay (LLNA) remains the 'gold standard' test method for this purpose however non-animal test methods are under development that aim to replace the need for new animal test data. COLIPA (the European Cosmetics Association) funds an extensive programme of skin sensitisation research, method development and method evaluation and helped coordinate the early evaluation of the three test methods currently undergoing pre-validation. In May 2010, a COLIPA scientific meeting was held to analyse to what extent skin sensitisation safety assessments for cosmetic ingredients can be made in the absence of animal data. In order to propose guiding principles for the application and further development of non-animal safety assessment strategies it was evaluated how and when non-animal test methods, predictions based on physico-chemical properties (including in silico tools), threshold concepts and weight-of-evidence based hazard characterisation could be used to enable safety decisions. Generation and assessment of potency information from alternative tools which at present is predominantly derived from the LLNA is considered the future key research area.

Lotus leaf extract and L-carnitine influence different processes during the adipocyte life cycle

Background

The cellular and molecular mechanisms of adipose tissue biology have been studied extensively over the last two decades. Adipose tissue growth involves both an increase in fat cell size and the formation of mature adipocytes from precursor cells. To investigate how natural substances influence these two processes, we examined the effects of lotus leaf extract (Nelumbo nucifera-extract solution obtained from Silab, France) and L-carnitine on human preadipocytes and adipocytes.

Methods

For our in vitro studies, we used a lotus leaf extract solution alone or in combination with L-carnitine. Utilizing cultured human preadipocytes, we investigated lotus leaf extract solution-induced inhibition of triglyceride incorporation during adipogenesis and possible effects on cell viability. Studies on human adipocytes were performed aiming to elucidate the efficacy of lotus leaf extract solution to stimulate lipolytic activity. To further characterize lotus leaf extract solution-mediated effects, we determined the expression of the transcription factor adipocyte determination and differentiation factor 1 (ADD1/SREBP-1c) on the RNA- and protein level utilizing qRT-PCR and immunofluorescence analysis. Additionally, the effect of L-carnitine on beta-oxidation was analyzed using human preadipocytes and mature adipocytes. Finally, we investigated additive effects of a combination of lotus leaf extract solution and L-carnitine on triglyceride accumulation during preadipocyte/adipocyte differentiation.

Results

Our data showed that incubation of preadipocytes with lotus leaf extract solution significantly decreased triglyceride accumulation during adipogenesis without affecting cell viability. Compared to controls, adipocytes incubated with lotus leaf extract solution exhibited a significant increase in lipolysis-activity. Moreover, cell populations cultivated in the presence of lotus leaf extract solution showed a decrease in adipocyte differentiation capacity as indicated by a decrease in the ADD1/SREBP-1c signal. Importantly, our results demonstrated that a combination of lotus leaf extract solution and L-carnitine reduced triglyceride accumulation to a greater extent compared to incubation with either substance alone.

Conclusions

Overall, our data demonstrate that a combination of lotus leaf extract and L-carnitine reduced triglyceride accumulation in human (pre)adipocytes by affecting different processes during the adipocyte life cycle. For this reason, this combination might represent a treatment option for obesity-related diseases.