Tracking heavy-water-incorporated confocal Raman spectroscopy for evaluating the effects of PEGylated emulsifiers on skin barrier

Predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental characterizations: A review

Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and 'Check-all-that-apply') are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters.

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

Confocal Raman spectroscopy at different laser wavelengths in analyzing stratum corneum and skin penetration properties of mixed PEGylated emulsifier systems

Emulsifier mixtures are widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceutics and thus, brought extensive studies for their performances on skin applications. PEG-20cetyl ether (C20) is recently proposed to induce skin irritation and is of interest to study its skin interactions when mixed with other emulsifiers. PEG-2oleyl ether (O2) and PEG-20stearyl ether (S20) are selected and in specific, 50 mM of C20, O2, S20 as well as Mix1 (50 mM C20 mixed with 50 mM O2) and Mix2 (50 mM C20 mixed with 50 mM S20) solutions were applied on skin samples. Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) analyses of stratum corneum (SC) thickness and SC lipid content were performed after 4 h skin treatments. In parallel, skin penetration properties were also evaluated via CRS by applying procaine solutions with/without emulsifiers on skin samples for 24 h. In terms of the CRS measurements, two excitation wavelengths of 532 nm and 785 nm are both utilized in this study and we secondly aimed to compare their results and suitability in SC and skin analyses. Based on the experimental observations, comparable results are obtained by using both excitation wavelengths of 532 nm and 785 nm demonstrating their suitability in analyzing SC and skin samples. Thereinto, 785 nm laser wavelength shows the advantage of deeper skin penetration and allows the measurements of fluorescent skin samples; 532 nm laser wavelength enables simple measurement performance without substrate and coverslip interference. With regards to the results of emulsifier mixtures, the addition of S20 and O2 reduced the skin interactions and penetration enhancing ability of C20, giving us the hint to build milder systems with emulsifier mixtures. Besides, the CRS results of stronger skin interruption were also correlated with the higher critical micelle concentration (CMC) values of emulsifiers and their mixtures, which may provide evidence in explaining the interactions between emulsifiers and skin.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

In-Line and Off-Line Monitoring of Skin Penetration Profiles Using Confocal Raman Spectroscopy

Ex-vivo and in-vivo skin analysis has been extensively evaluated by confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS). The off-line measurement with a CRS-suited skin-mounted device after Franz-cell incubations is the most popular choice. However, real-time monitoring of in-line measurement has clear advantages for obtaining dynamic and more timely results. In our study, a custom-built setup suitable for in-line measurements was implemented, which ensures constant skin incubation and in-situ skin detections. We aim to compare the differences between using in-line and off-line devices for monitoring skin drug penetrations. A well-assessed formulation gel with procaine-HCl as the active ingredient was used as reference. The PEG-23 lauryl ether was added to the formulation as a penetration enhancer to evaluate the enhancement effects of procaine on skin. After incubation times of 14, 20, and 24 h, skin penetration profiles were assessed. Comparable results between off-line and in-line measurements were obtained. Remarkable improvements in penetrated procaine amount and depth were observed. Based on the significant differences of their enhanced penetration amounts, fairly similar estimations were achieved from both methods. A slight difference of 14 h incubation between these two setups can still be found, which may be due to the different detection conditions and affected skin properties. Overall, in-line measurements could provide a more time- and labor-saving alternative for off-line measurements in ex-vivo study.