[Topical treatment of skin aging]

[Undesirable pigmentation]

BACKGROUND

Homogenous pigmentation can be induced by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) homologues. Cosmetically inacceptable pigmentation is mostly located on the face.

OBJECTIVES

Although afamelatonide is a prescription drug for the orphan disease erthropoetic protoporphyria, structurally related α-MSH derivatives are available via the internet. Preventive and therapeutical options are necessary for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and lentigines.

METHODS

Case reports address activation of dysplastic naevi by melanotan I. Wood's lamp is of some use in analyzing the level of hyperpigmentation. However, no guidelines have been established; thus, a summary of current studies is presented.

RESULTS

Melanotan I leads to the activation of dysplastic nevi. The gold standard for hyperpigmentation is triple therapy with hydrochinon, tretinoin, and steroids, which can cause irritation and lead to ochronosis in some individuals. Tyrosinase inhibitors, substances that increase the cell turnover, and plant derivatives are less efficient but more tolerable.

CONCLUSIONS

Melanotan I and bleaching creams, which may possibly contain mercury, are dangerous. Hyperpigmentation is best treated using a combination therapy that inhibits melanocyte activity and melanin synthesis, removes melanin, destroys melanin granules, and includes UV protection. Especially in Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI, cryotherapy and laser are not the first line treatment options due to renewed posttreatment hyperpigmentation.

[Skin aging and evidence-based topical strategies]

Anti-aging in dermatology primarily focuses on the prevention of skin aging with UV protection (clothing and sunsceens), free radical scavengers (synthetic or botanic), and cell-protecting agents such as vitamin B3. For the correction of signs of early skin aging, retinoic acid derivatives in dermatological prescriptions are the best studied substances. Topical hormonal prescriptions are also an option if UV damage has not been the leading culprit for aging. Chemical peeling leads to a marked increase in collagen formation, the deaper the better. Ingredients in cream preparations can reduce superficial skin folds (polyphenols, amino acid peptides). Modulators of regular pigmentation are important for anti-aging preparations. Growth factors (plant extracts, recombinant growth factors) are not thoroughly studied regarding the cost-benefit and risk ratio. Complex precedures such as photodynamic therapy have an impact on the appearance of aged skin.

Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging

Skin has been reported to reflect the general inner-health status and aging. Nutrition and its reflection on skin has always been an interesting topic for scientists and physicians throughout the centuries worldwide. Vitamins, carotenoids, tocopherols, flavonoids and a variety of plant extracts have been reported to possess potent anti-oxidant properties and have been widely used in the skin care industry either as topically applied agents or oral supplements in an attempt to prolong youthful skin appearance. This review will provide an overview of the current literature "linking" nutrition with skin aging.