Synthesis of arbutin-gold nanoparticle complexes and their enhanced performance for whitening

Development and efficacy of arbutin-loaded agarose hydrogel for antioxidant and depigmentation applications

Skin whitening and depigmentation are key strategies in skincare, representing a major global market. However, prolonged use of high concentrations of chemicals in skincare products can lead to skin disorders and premature aging. Biopolymer-based hydrogels offer a promising alternative by enabling sustained transdermal delivery of bioactive molecules while minimizing adverse effects. This study aimed to develop a novel bioactive hydrogel using thermosensitive, low-temperature-melting agarose (AGE) and the non-toxic tyrosinase inhibitor arbutin (ABN). Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) analysis confirmed the successful incorporation of ABN into the AGE hydrogel, while X-ray diffraction (XRD) analysis revealed the formation of new amorphous peaks, indicating composite hydrogel formation. Field emission scanning electron microscope (FE-SEM) imaging showed that freeze-dried AGE-ABN exhibited a smaller, more longitudinal porous structure compared to AGE alone. ABN release was dependent on its initial concentration, with higher release rates correlating with increased antioxidant activity. The 10-minute extract of freeze-dried AGE-ABN (0.1 %) hydrogel demonstrated DPPH (39.16 ± 0.72 %), FRAP (78.37 ± 2.24 %), and ABTS (92.40 ± 0.02 %) radical scavenging activities. Additionally, AGE-ABN (0.1 %) exhibited significant tyrosinase inhibition (27.90 ± 0.02 %), highlighting its potential for depigmentation. Importantly, the hydrogel promoted a human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cell growth without inducing cytotoxicity.

Multi-omics analysis reveals the role of UGT72 family genes in arbutin biosynthesis in Pyrus and evolution driven by whole genome duplication

The UGT72 gene family encodes proteins that glycosylate phenylpropanoids, and thus contribute to the synthesis of various phenolic substances. However, their functional role and evolutionary history in Pyrus spp. remains poorly understood. Here we explored the evolution, amplification, coding region structural variation, and functional divergence of the UGT72 gene family and its subfamilies. Further, we identified functional genes involved in arbutin synthesis and functionally validated the key genes. 15 UGT72 genes were identified in the complete genome sequence and classified into two subfamilies of Pyrus betulifolia. Significant expansion of the UGT72 gene family occurred after genome duplication in P. betulifolia. 53.33 % of all UGT72 family genes were found to have undergone expansion via WGD/segmental duplication. A noteworthy discovery was that the amplification of functional genes such as PbUGT72B1714 during polyploidization, combined with the loss of vital motifs and variations at important sites within these genes, significantly impacted the diversification of arbutin metabolism. These findings offer novel insights into how gene gains and losses caused by WGDs have contributed to metabolic diversification and evolutionary adaptation in Pyrus, as well as a groundwork for more detailed investigations into the mechanisms of arbutin metabolism.

Molecular analysis of dUTPase of Helicobacter pylori for identification of novel inhibitors using in silico studies

The human gastric pathogen Helicobacter pylori chronically affects the gastric mucosal layer of approximately half of world's population. The emergence of resistant strains urges the need for identification of novel and selective drug against new molecular targets. A ubiquitous enzyme, Deoxyuridine 5'-triphosphate nucleotidohydrolase (dUTPase), is considered as first line of defense against uracil mis-incorporation into DNA, and essential for genome integrity. Lack of dUTPase triggers an elevated recombination frequency, DNA breaks and ultimately cell death. Hence, dUTPase can be considered as a promising target for development of novel lead inhibitor compounds in H. pylori treatment. Herein, we report the generation of three-dimensional model of the target protein using comparative modelling and its validation. To identify dUTPase inhibitors, a high throughput virtual screening approach utilizing Knowledge-based inhibitors and DrugBank database was implemented. Top ranked compounds were scrutinized based on investigations of the protein-ligand interaction fingerprints, molecular interaction maps and binding affinities and the drug potentiality. The best ligands were studied further for complex stability and intermolecular interaction profiling with respect to time under 100 ns classical molecular dynamic stimulation, establishing significant stability in dynamic states as observed from RMSD and RMSF parameters and interactions with the catalytic site residues. The binding free energy calculation computed using MM-GBSA method from the MD simulation trajectories demonstrated that our molecules possess strong binding affinity towards the Helicobacter pylori dUTPase protein. We conclude that our proposed molecules may be potential lead molecules for effective inhibition against the H. pylori dUTPase protein subject to experimental validation.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Collagenase and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Compounds from Fish Gut Bacteria Ruegeria atlantica and Pseudoalteromonas neustonica

Ruegeria atlantica and Pseudoalteromonas neustonica are fish gut bacteria that have been isolated from the guts of Pagrus major and Acanthopagrus schlegelii, respectively. A total of 22 compounds (1-22) were isolated from these two bacteria; 16 compounds (1-16) from R. atalantica and 6 compounds (17-22) from P. neustonica. Their chemical structures were elucidated by spectroscopic and spectrometric data analysis and chemical synthesis. Compounds 11 and 13 showed strong collagenase inhibitory activity, with 31.91% and 36.43% at 20 μM, respectively, comparable to or surpassing that of the positive control epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG, 34.66%). Also, compounds 11 and 14 exhibited a mild tyrosinase inhibitory effect of 6.73% and 13.68%, respectively. All of the tested compounds displayed no significant antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli and Bacillus subtilis up to 100 μM. The collagenase- and tyrosinase-inhibitory compound 11, cyclo(l-Pro-d-Leu), was found to be stable under heat (50 °C) and UV light (254 and 365 nm) for up to 6 days. These results indicate that compound 11 could be developed into a cosmeceutical with antiaging effects.

Mechanism, Formulation, and Efficacy Evaluation of Natural Products for Skin Pigmentation Treatment

Skin pigmentation typically arises from the excessive secretion and accumulation of melanin, resulting in a darker complexion compared to normal skin. Currently, the local application of chemical drugs is a first-line strategy for pigmentation disorders, but the safety and efficacy of drugs still cannot meet clinical treatment needs. For long-term and safe medication, researchers have paid attention to natural products with higher biocompatibility. This article begins by examining the pathogenesis and treatment approaches of skin pigmentation diseases and summarizes the research progress and mechanism of natural products with lightening or whitening effects that are clinically common or experimentally proven. Moreover, we outline the novel formulations of natural products in treating pigmentation disorders, including liposomes, nanoparticles, microemulsions, microneedles, and tocosomes. Finally, the pharmacodynamic evaluation methods in the study of pigmentation disorder were first systematically analyzed. In brief, this review aims to collect natural products for skin pigmentation treatment and investigate their formulation design and efficacy evaluation to provide insights for the development of new products for this complex skin disease.

Tackling breast cancer with gold nanoparticles: twinning synthesis and particle engineering with efficacy

The World Health Organization identifies breast cancer as the most prevalent cancer despite predominantly affecting women. Surgery, hormonal therapy, chemotherapy, and radiation therapy are the current treatment modalities. Site-directed nanotherapeutics, engineered with multidimensional functionality are now the frontrunners in breast cancer diagnosis and treatment. Gold nanoparticles with their unique colloidal, optical, quantum, magnetic, mechanical, and electrical properties have become the most valuable weapon in this arsenal. Their advantages include facile modulation of shape and size, a high degree of reproducibility and stability, biocompatibility, and ease of particle engineering to induce multifunctionality. Additionally, the surface plasmon oscillation and high atomic number of gold provide distinct advantages for tailor-made diagnosis, therapy or theranostic applications in breast cancer such as photothermal therapy, radiotherapy, molecular labeling, imaging, and sensing. Although pre-clinical and clinical data are promising for nano-dimensional gold, their clinical translation is hampered by toxicity signs in major organs like the liver, kidneys and spleen. This has instigated global scientific brainstorming to explore feasible particle synthesis and engineering techniques to simultaneously improve the efficacy and versatility and widen the safety window of gold nanoparticles. The present work marks the first study on gold nanoparticle design and maneuvering techniques, elucidating their impact on the pharmacodynamics character and providing a clear-cut scientific roadmap for their fast-track entry into clinical practice.

Different therapeutic approaches in melasma: advances and limitations

Melasma is a chronic hyperpigmentation skin disorder that is more common in the female gender. Although melasma is a multifactorial skin disorder, however, sun-exposure and genetic predisposition are considered as the main etiologic factors in melasma occurrence. Although numerous topical and systemic therapeutic agents and also non-pharmacologic procedural treatments have been considered in melasma management, however, the commonly available therapeutic options have several limitations including the lack of sufficient clinical effectiveness, risk of relapse, and high rate of unwanted adverse drug reactions. Recruitment of nanotechnology for topical drug delivery in melasma management can lead to enhanced skin penetration, targeted drug delivery to the site of action, longer deposition at the targeted area, and limit systemic absorption and therefore systemic availability and adverse drug reactions. In the current review, first of all, the etiology, pathophysiology, and severity classification of melasma have been considered. Then, various pharmacologic and procedural therapeutic options in melasma treatment have been discussed. Afterward, the usage of various types of nanoparticles for the purpose of topical drug delivery for melasma management was considered. In the end, numerous clinical studies and controlled clinical trials on the assessment of the effectiveness of these novel topical formulations in melasma management are summarized.

Zebrafish in dermatology: a comprehensive review of their role in investigating abnormal skin pigmentation mechanisms

Skin pigmentation abnormalities, ranging from aesthetic concerns to severe hyperpigmentation disease, have profound implications for individuals' psychological and economic wellbeing. The intricate etiology of hyperpigmentation and our evolving comprehension of its underlying mechanisms underscore the need for robust animal models. Zebrafish, renowned for their transparent embryos and genetic parallels to humans, have been spotlighted as a pivotal model for skin pigmentation studies. This review offers a concise overview of zebrafish skin attributes, highlighting the shared melanin production pathways with humans. We systematically dissect the diverse strategies to craft zebrafish models of abnormal skin pigmentation, spanning physical, chemical, and genetic interventions, while critically appraising the merits and constraints of each approach. Additionally, we elucidate the metrics employed to gauge the efficacy of these models. Concluding, we cast a visionary gaze on prospective breakthroughs in the domain, aiming to steer forthcoming efforts in refined zebrafish models for skin pigmentation research.

Inorganic nanoparticles in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic products: Properties, formulation development, toxicity, and regulatory issues

The use of nanotechnology strategies is a current hot topic, and research in this field has been growing significantly in the cosmetics industry. Inorganic nanoparticles stand out in this context for their distinctive physicochemical properties, leading in particular to an increased refractive index and absorption capacity giving them a broad potential for cutaneous applications and making them of special interest in research for dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This performance is responsible for its heavy inclusion in the manufacture of skin health products such as sunscreens, lotions, beauty creams, skin ointments, makeup, and others. In particular, their suitable bandgap energy characteristics allow them to be used as photocatalytic semiconductors. They provide excellent UV absorption, commonly known as UV filters, and are responsible for their wide worldwide use in sunscreen formulations without the undesirable white residue after consumer application. In addition, cosmetics based on inorganic nanoparticles have several additional characteristics relevant to formulation development, such as being less expensive compared to other nanomaterials, having greater stability, and ensuring less irritation, itching, and propensity for skin allergies. This review will address in detail the main inorganic nanoparticles used in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic products, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, silver, gold, copper, and aluminum nanoparticles, nanocrystals, and quantum dots, reporting their physicochemical characteristics, but also their additional intrinsic properties that contribute to their use in this type of formulations. Safety issues regarding inorganic nanoparticles, based on toxicity studies, both to humans and the environment, as well as regulatory affairs associated with their use in dermopharmaceuticals and cosmetics, will be addressed.

Optimization of a Novel Tyrosinase Inhibitory Peptide from Atrina pectinata Mantle and Its Molecular Inhibitory Mechanism

In order to realize the multi-level utilization of marine shellfish resources and to develop the potential biological activity of processing by-products of Atrina pectinata, gelatin was extracted from the mantle and the potential whitening effect of its enzymatic peptides was explored. Taking tyrosinase inhibitory activity as the evaluation index, the enzyme hydrolysate process was optimized by response-surface methodology, and the optimal enzyme hydrolysate conditions were as follows: pH 5.82, 238 min enzyme hydrolysate time, and temperature of 54.5 °C. Under these conditions, the tyrosinase inhibition activity of Atrina pectinata mantle gelatin peptide (APGP) was 88.6% (IC50 of 3.268 ± 0.048 mg/mL). The peptides obtained from the identification were separated by ultrafiltration and LC-MS/MS, and then four new peptides were screened by molecular docking, among which the peptide Tyr-Tyr-Pro (YYP) had the strongest inhibitory effect on tyrosinase with an IC50 value of 1.764 ± 0.025 mM. The molecular-docking results indicated that hydrogen bonding is the main driving force for the interaction of the peptide YYP with tyrosinase. From the Lineweaver-Burk analysis, it could be concluded that YYP is inhibitory to tyrosinase and exhibits a mixed mechanism of inhibition. These results suggest that YYP could be widely used as a tyrosinase inhibitor in whitening foods and pharmaceuticals.

Ginsenoside Re inhibits melanogenesis and melanoma growth by downregulating microphthalmia-associated transcription factor

Panax ginseng, also known as Korean ginseng, is a traditional remedy widely used in Asian countries. Its major active compounds are ginsenosides, specifically triterpenoid saponins. Among them, one notable ginsenoside called Re has shown various biological effects, including anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the potential beneficial effects of Re on melanogenesis and skin cancer remain poorly understood. To investigate this, we conducted a comprehensive study using biochemical assays, cell-based models, a zebrafish pigment formation model, and a tumor xenograft model. Our results revealed that Re effectively inhibited melanin biosynthesis in a dose-dependent manner by competitively inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. Moreover, Re significantly reduced the mRNA expression levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a key regulator of melanin biosynthesis and melanoma growth. Furthermore, Re decreased the protein expression of MITF and its target genes, including tyrosinase, TRP-1, and TRP-2, through a partially ubiquitin-dependent proteasomal degradation mechanism, mediated by the AKT and ERK signaling pathways. These findings indicate that Re exerts its hypopigmentary effects by directly inhibiting tyrosinase activity and suppressing its expression via MITF. Additionally, Re demonstrated inhibitory effects on skin melanoma growth and induced tumor vascular normalization in our in vivo experiments. This study represents the first evidence of Re-mediated inhibition of melanogenesis and skin melanoma, shedding light on the underlying mechanisms. These promising preclinical findings warrant further investigation to determine the suitability of Re as a natural agent for treating hyperpigmentation disorders and skin cancer.

Mechanism of skin whitening through San-Bai decoction-induced tyrosinase inhibition and discovery of natural products targeting tyrosinase

Melanin deposition is the main cause of skin darkening, which can lead to severe physical and psychological distress, necessitating the development of approaches for preserving skin health and fairness. Tyrosinase (TYR) is the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis, and its activity directly determines the degree of melanin accumulation in the skin, which in turn affects skin color. Currently, TYR inhibitors derived from natural products are widely used for skin whitening. San-Bai decoction (SBD) is effective for skin whitening and softening, but its mechanism of action, efficacy and high efficiency TYR inhibitors for skin whitening remain poorly understood. Here, we employed systems biology and network pharmacology to analyze the active compounds and targets of SBD, using the follow databases: TCMIP, TCMID, and BATMAN-TCM. Construct a molecular network centered on the regulation of TYR by SBD in skin whitening, using STRING database and cytoscape. Enrichment analysis using KOBAS database and ClusterProfiler. Virtual screening of candidate TYR inhibitors using Molecular Operating Environment software and Amber 18 software. SBD may act through tyrosine metabolism, melanogenesis, and other signaling pathways to regulate TYR activity and inhibit melanogenesis. We identified TYR and ESR1 as possible key targets for the whitening effect of SBD and screened out pentagalloylglucose, 1,3,6-tri-O-galloyl-beta-D-glucose, 1,2,4,6-tetragalloylglucose, and liquiritigenin 4',7-diglucoside as inhibitors of TYR, in addition to glycyrrhizic acid, pachymic acid methyl ester, nicotiflorin, gamma-sitosterol, and isoliensinine as inhibitors of ESR1. We also performed virtual drug screening of a library of natural small-molecule compounds (19,505 in total) and screened out lycopsamine, 2-phenylethyl b-D-glucopyranoside, and 6-beta-hydroxyhyoscyamine as inhibitors of TYR. We identified natural compounds with the potential for skin whitening through inhibition of TYR, thus advancing research on SBD and its applications.

The melanin inhibitory effect of plants and phytochemicals: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin, while excessive synthesis of melanin can cause abnormal pigmentation and induce skin diseases. Long-term use of commercial whitening agents in managing skin melanin such as kojic acid and arbutin can lead to some negative effects such as dermatitis and liver cancer. Although past studies have researched the melanin inhibitory effect of plant extracts, the effective dose and mechanisms are not well summarized and discussed. This study aims to explore the melanin inhibitory property of phytochemicals and tries to answer the following research questions: (1) Which plant extracts and phytochemicals could inhibit melanin biosynthesis in the skin? what is the mechanism of action? (2) Have human trials been conducted to confirm their melanin inhibitory effect? (3) If not, which phytochemicals are recommended for further human trials? This article would provide information for future research to develop natural and safe skin whitening products.

METHODS

A preferred reporting items for systematic reviews and meta-analyses (PRISMA) systematic review method and OHAT risk-of-bias tool were applied to screen literature from 2000 to 2021 and 50 research articles met the selection criteria.

RESULTS

Flavonoids, phenolic acids, stilbenes and terpenes are main classes of phytochemicals responsible for the melanin inhibitory effects. The in vitro/in vivo melanin inhibitory effects of these plant extracts/phytochemicals are achieved via three main mechanisms: (1) the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv., and phytochemicals such as galangin and origanoside could manage melanin biosynthesis through competitive inhibition, non-competitive inhibition or mixed-type inhibition of tyrosinase; (2) phytochemicals such as ginsenoside F1, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde could inhibit melanogenesis through down-regulating microphthalmia-related transcription factor (MITF) gene expression via different signalling pathways; (3) the ethanolic extracts of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius have a good ultraviolet absorption ability and high sun protective factor (SPF) values, thereby inhibiting UV induced melanogenesis in the skin.

CONCLUSION

Although many plant extracts and phytochemicals have been found to inhibit melanin production, most of the results were only proved in cellular and/or animal models. Only the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv. panicle, and ginsenoside F1 were proved effective in human trials. Animal studies proved the effectiveness of galangin, origanoside, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde with effective dose below 3 mM, and therefore recommended for future human trial. In addition, cellular studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of oxyresveratrol, mulberroside A, kurarinol, kuraridinol, plumbagin, (6aR,11aR)-3,8-dihydroxy-9‑methoxy pterocarpan, ginsenoside Rh4, cardamonin, nobiletin, curcumin, β-mangostin and emodin in inhibiting melanin synthesis at low concentrations of 20 µM and proved the low SPF values of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius extracts, and therefore recommended for further animal and human trials.

Herbal nanocosmecuticals: A review on cosmeceutical innovation

BACKGROUND

Cosmeceuticals are drugs, cosmetics, or a combination of both. Cosmeceuticals are personal care products that not only beautify but also need to have healing, therapeutic, and disease-fighting characteristics. For decades, phytocompounds have been employed in cosmeceuticals and have shown potential in applications such as moisturizing, sunscreen, antiaging, and hair-based therapy. The inability of phytocompounds to easily penetrate through the skin and their instability limit their usage in cosmetic products. This can be overcome by incorporating nanotechnology into cosmetic products for a more stable and long-lasting release. Nanotechnology's substantial impact on the cosmetics industry is due to the improved properties attained by particles at the nano scale, such as color, solubility, and transparency. Liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, niosomes, and many varieties of nanoparticulate systems are commonly used in cosmetics. Safety concerns for the usage of nanomaterials in cosmeceuticals have been raised lately, hence causing the restriction on the use of nanomaterials by cosmetic companies and enforcing laws demanding thorough safety testing prior to market entry.

AIM

This review focuses on the types of nanomaterials used in phytocosmetics, along with the potential hazards they pose to human life and the environment, and what legislation has been enacted or can be enacted to address them.

METHODS

For relevant literature, a literature search was conducted using PubMed, ScienceDirect, and Google Scholar. Nanotechnology, cosmeceuticals, herbal cosmetics, and other related topics were researched and evaluated in articles published between 2016 and 2022.

RESULTS

Herbal drugs provide a tremendous range of therapeutic benefits. And when nanoparticles were introduced to the personal care industry, the quality of the final product containing phyto-compounds continued to rise. Unfortunately, because these nano components can permeate intact skin barriers and create unwanted consequences, this revolution comes with a slew of health risks.

CONCLUSION

The cosmeceutical industry's expansion and growth in the application of herbal compounds, as well as the entrance of nanotechnology into the cosmeceuticals business, entail the urgent need for scientific research into their efficacy, safety profile, and use.

Arbutin improves gut development and serum lipids via Lactobacillus intestinalis

Arbutin has been widely studied in whitening, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant. However, the interaction between arbutin and intestinal microbes has been rarely studied. Thus, mice were treated with arbutin concentrations of 0, 0.1, 0.2, 0.4, and 1 mg/ml. We found that arbutin promoted gut development such as villus length, villus areas, and villus length/crypt depth (L/D). Total cholesterol (TC), high-density lipoprotein (HDL), and low-density lipoprotein (LDL) were significantly reduced by low concentrations of arbutin. Importantly, we analyzed the microbial composition in the control and 0.4 mg/ml arbutin group and found that the abundance of Lactobacillus intestinalis (L. intestinalis) was highest and enhanced in arbutin. Further, mice were fed with oral antibiotics and antibiotics + 0.4 mg/ml arbutin and then we transplanted fecal microbes from oral 0.4 mg/ml arbutin mice to mice pretreated with antibiotics. Our results showed that arbutin improves gut development, such as villus width, villus length, L/D, and villus areas. In addition, L. intestinalis monocolonization was carried out after a week of oral antibiotics and increased villus length, crypt depth, and villus areas. Finally, in vitro arbutin and L. intestinalis co-culture showed that arbutin promoted the growth and proliferation of L. intestinalis. Taken together, our results suggest that arbutin improves gut development and health of L. intestinalis. Future studies are needed to explore the function and mechanism of L. intestinalis affecting gut development.

Dual Antimelanogenic Effect of Nicotinamide-Stabilized Phloretin Nanocrystals in Larval Zebrafish

Melanin is a kind of dark insoluble pigment that can cause pigmentation and free-radical clearance, inducing melasma, freckles, and chloasma, affecting the quality of life of patients. Due to poor water solubility and low safety, the absorption of poorly water-soluble drugs is limited by the hinderance of a skin barrier. Therefore, it is necessary to develop new, safe, and highly efficient drugs to improve their transdermal absorption efficiency and thus to inhibit the production of melanin. To address these issues, we developed a new nicotinamide (NIC)-stabilized phloretin nanocrystals (PHL-NCs). First, NC technology significantly increased the solubility of PHL. The in vitro release results indicated that at 6 h, the dissolution of the PHL-NIC-NCs was 101.39% ± 2.40% and of the PHL-NCs was 84.92% ± 4.30%, while that of the physical mixture of the two drugs was only 64.43% ± 0.02%. Second, NIC acted not only as a stabilizer to enlarge the storage time of PHL-NIC-NCs (improved to 10-day in vitro stability) but also as a melanin transfer inhibitor to inhibit melanin production. Finally, we verified the melanin inhibition effect of PHL-NIC-NCs evaluated by the zebrafish model. It showed that 0.38 mM/L PHL-NIC-NCs have a lower tyrosinase activity at 62.97% ± 0.52% and have less melanin at 36.57% ± 0.44%. The inhibition effect of PHL-NCs and PHL-NIC-NCs was stronger compared to the positive control arbutin. In conclusion, the combination of NIC and PHL achieves better inhibition of tyrosinase and inhibition of melanin production through synergism. This will provide a direction to the subsequent development of melanin-inhibiting drugs and the combined use of pharmaceutical agents.

A review of pears (Pyrus spp.), ancient functional food for modern times

BACKGROUND

Pears have been world-widely used as a sweet and nutritious food and a folk medicine for more than two millennia.

METHODS

We conducted a review from ancient literatures to current reports to extract evidence-based functions of pears.

RESULTS

We found that pears have many active compounds, e.g., flavonoids, triterpenoids, and phenolic acids including arbutin, chlorogenic acid, malaxinic acid, etc. Most of researchers agree that the beneficial compounds are concentrated in the peels. From various in vitro, in vivo, and human studies, the medicinal functions of pears can be summarized as anti-diabetic,-obese, -hyperlipidemic, -inflammatory, -mutagenic, and -carcinogenic effects, detoxification of xenobiotics, respiratory and cardio-protective effects, and skin whitening effects. Therefore, pears seem to be even effective for prevention from Covid-19 or PM2.5 among high susceptible people with multiple underlying diseases.

CONCLUSION

For the current or post Covid-19 era, pears have potential for functional food or medicine for both of communicable and non-communicable disease.

Arbutin as a Skin Depigmenting Agent with Antimelanogenic and Antioxidant Properties

Arbutin is a compound of hydroquinone and D-glucose, and it has been over 30 years since there have been serious studies on the skin lightening action of this substance. In the meantime, there have been debates and validation studies about the mechanism of action of this substance as well as its skin lightening efficacy and safety. Several analogs or derivatives of arbutin have been developed and studied for their melanin synthesis inhibitory action. Formulations have been developed to improve the stability, transdermal delivery, and release of arbutin, and device usage to promote skin absorption has been developed. Substances that inhibit melanin synthesis synergistically with arbutin have been explored. The skin lightening efficacy of arbutin alone or in combination with other active ingredients has been clinically evaluated. Combined therapy with arbutin and laser could give enhanced depigmenting efficacy. The use of arbutin causes dermatitis rarely, and caution is recommended for the use of arbutin-containing products, especially from the viewpoint that hydroquinone may be generated during product use. Studies on the antioxidant properties of arbutin are emerging, and these antioxidant properties are proposed to contribute to the skin depigmenting action of arbutin. It is hoped that this review will help to understand the pros and cons of arbutin as a cosmetic ingredient, and will lead to future research directions for developing advanced skin lightening and protecting cosmetic products.

A comprehensive review of the therapeutic potential of α-arbutin

Cosmetic dermatology preparations such as bleaching agents are ingredients with skin-related biological activities for increasing and improving skin beauty. The possibility of controlling skin hyperpigmentation disorders is one of the most important research goals in cosmetic preparations. Recently, cosmetics containing herbal and botanical ingredients have attracted many interests for consumers of cosmetic products because these preparations are found safer than other preparations with synthetic components. However, high-quality trial studies in larger samples are needed to confirm safety and clinical efficacy of phytotherapeutic agents with high therapeutic index. Arbutin (p-hydroxyphenyl-β-d-glucopyranoside) is a bioactive hydrophilic polyphenol with two isomers including alpha-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-α-glucopyranoside) and β-arbutin (4-hydroxyphenyl-β-glucopyranoside). It is used as a medicinal plant in phytopharmacy. Studies have shown that alpha-arbutin is 10 times more effective than natural arbutin. A comparison of IC50 values showed that α-arbutin (with concentration 2.0 mM) has a more potent inhibitory activity on human tyrosinase against natural arbutin (with higher concentration than 30 mM). A review of recent studies showed that arbutin could be beneficial in treatment of various diseases such as hyperpigmentation disorders, types of cancers, central nervous system disorders, osteoporosis, diabetes, etc. This study was designed to describe the therapeutic efficiencies of arbutin.

Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity of Soybeans Fermented with Bacillus subtilis Capable of Producing a Phenolic Glycoside, Arbutin

The production of arbutin, an effective tyrosinase inhibitor as well as an outstanding antioxidant, by 691 Bacillus strains isolated from soybean-based foods was tested to enhance the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of soybeans via fermentation with the strains. Among the strains tested, the 5 strains capable of significantly producing arbutin were identified as B. subtilis via 16S rRNA sequencing. When soybeans were fermented with each of the selected strains, the arbutin content was highest on day 1 of fermentation and decreased thereafter. However, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the fermented soybeans continuously increased as fermentation progressed, whereas the activity of non-inoculated soybeans was consistently low. The results indicate that arbutin enhances the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of soybeans in the early period of fermentation, while other substances besides arbutin contribute to the activity in the later period. Consequently, soybeans fermented with arbutin-producing B. subtilis strains could be considered as a natural source of cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics used in skin lightening and may be of interest in the food industry because they contain well-known and powerful antioxidants such as arbutin and other substances.