Permeation of topically applied caffeine from a food by—product in cosmetic formulations: Is nanoscale in vitro approach an option?

Caffeine: A Multifunctional Efficacious Molecule with Diverse Health Implications and Emerging Delivery Systems

Natural caffeine is found in many plants, including coffee beans, cacao beans, and tea leaves. Around the world, many beverages, including coffee, tea, energy drinks, and some soft drinks, have this natural caffeine compound. This paper reviewed the results of meta-studies on caffeine's effects on chronic diseases. Of importance, many meta-studies have shown that regularly drinking caffeine or caffeinated coffee significantly reduces the risk of developing Alzheimer's disease, epilepsy, and Parkinson's disease. Based on the health supplements of caffeine, this review summarizes various aspects related to the application of caffeine, including its pharmacokinetics, and various functional health benefits of caffeine, such as its effects on the central nervous system. The importance of caffeine and its use in alleviating or treating cancer, diabetes, eye diseases, autoimmune diseases, and cardiovascular diseases is also discussed. Overall, consuming caffeine daily in drinks containing antioxidant and neuroprotective properties, such as coffee, prevents progressive neurodegenerative diseases, such as Alzheimer's and Parkinson's. Furthermore, to effectively deliver caffeine to the body, recently developed nanoformulations using caffeine, for instance, nanoparticles, liposomes, etc., are summarized along with regulatory and safety considerations for caffeine. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recommended that healthy adults consume up to 400 mg of caffeine per day or 5~6 mg/kg body weight. Since a cup of coffee contains, on average, 100 to 150 mg of coffee, 1 to 3 cups of coffee may help prevent chronic diseases. Furthermore, this review summarizes various interesting and important areas of research on caffeine and its applications related to human health.

Confocal Raman spectroscopy coupled with in vitro permeation testing to study the effects of formalin fixation on the skin barrier function of reconstructed human epidermis

Confocal Raman Spectroscopy is recognised as a potent tool for molecular characterisation of biological specimens. There is a growing demand for In Vitro Permeation Tests (IVPT) in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic areas, increasingly conducted using Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) skin models. In this study, chemical fixation of RHE in 10 % Neutral Buffered Formalin for 24 h has been examined for storing RHE samples at 4 °C for up to 21 days. Confocal Raman Spectroscopy (CRS), combined with Principal Components Analysis, revealed the molecular-level effects of fixation, notably in protein and lipid conformation within the stratum corneum and viable epidermis. IVPT by means of high-performance liquid chromatography, using caffeine as a model compound, showed minimal impact of formalin fixation on the cumulative amount, flux, and permeability coefficient after 12 h. While the biochemical architecture is altered, the function of the model as a barrier to maintain rate-limiting diffusion of active molecules within skin layers remains intact. This study opens avenues for enhanced flexibility and utility in skin model research, promising insights into mitigating the limited shelf life of RHE models by preserving performance in fixed samples for up to 21 days.

Topical caffeine-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers for enhanced treatment of cellulite: A 32 full factorial design optimization and in vivo evaluation in rats

The goal of this study was the development and evaluation of semisolid caffeine (CAF) loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) for topical treatment of cellulite. CAF-loaded NLC formulations were prepared via high-speed homogenization followed by ultrasonication. A 32 full factorial design was employed for formulation optimization. The total lipid content (%) and the liquid lipid content per total lipids (%) were chosen as factors, whereas particle size (PS), polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potential (|ZP|) and viscosity (VIS) were selected as responses. The design suggested CAF-NLC3 as the optimum formulation consisting of a total lipid content of 15% w/w (palmitic acid and soft paraffin/isopropyl myristate, 7:3 w/w) and a surfactant content of 10% w/w (Tween 80/lecithin, 8:1.2 w/w). CAF-NLC3 revealed PS, PDI, ZP, VIS and CAF content values of 318.8 nm, 0.253, -41.1 mV, 18.0 Pa.s and 97.57%, respectively. It showed a pseudoplastic rheological behavior, acceptable pH value (5.25), good spreadability (1.12 mm2/g) and spherical shape employing transmission electron microscopy. Differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray diffraction demonstrated the amorphization of CAF in CAF-NLC3. CAF-NLC3 remained stable for 3 months at room and refrigeration conditions. A single topical application of CAF-NLC3 on shaved abdominal skins of Wistar rats revealed enhanced skin retention of CAF by 2-fold and 1.4-fold after 4 h when compared with plain CAF gel (CAF-P) and marketed CAF gel (CAF-M), respectively. Furthermore, CAF-NLC3 exhibited a superior anti-cellulite activity in comparison with CAF-P and CAF-M through elevating extracellular matrix components (collagen 1, elastin and hyaluronic acid) and stimulating the brown adipose tissue thermogenesis via up-regulating UCP1 and PPAR-γ expression. In addition, CAF-NLC3 prominently increased lipolysis through HSL activity and decreased pro-inflammatory cytokines such as ICAM-1 and VCAM-1 after 30 days of treatment on a high fat diet-induced cellulite rat model. These findings were further confirmed by histopathological examination supported by morphometric analysis. Therefore, incorporation of CAF in a semisolid NLC formulation would be a promising cosmetic approach for the topical treatment of cellulite.

Eco-Friendly Sustainable Nanocarriers to Treat Oxidative Stresses and Skin Aging-Related Ailments, Valorization of a By-Product

The peel from Citrus-sinensis L. is a medicinally significant food waste, and its extract (O-Ext) could be significant against oxidative stresses and skin aging, However, the penetration barriers, instability in formulation, undefined toxicities, and enzymatic activities make the O-Ext difficult to formulate and commercialize. The goal of this study was to evaluate O-Ext against oxidative stress, prepare O-Ext-loaded nano-lipid carriers (O-NLCs), and load them into topical O/W-emulsion (O-NLC-E) to improve O-Ext permeation and its in vivo antiaging effects. TPC, TFC, DPPH activity, and mineral/metal contents of O-Ext were determined via atomic-absorption spectroscopy. For bioactive compounds profiling, GC-MS analysis was carried out. O-NLCs were prepared and tested for physicochemical attributes, while HaCaT and fibroblast cells were used to study permeation and cytotoxicity. The kinetic characteristics of ex vivo permeation through rat skin were established, following the Higuchi model. Following written consent, safety investigations were conducted on human volunteers for three months, where optimized O-NLC-E and B-NLC-E were regularly applied on cheeks. Non-invasive procedures were used to assess the volunteer's skin erythema, TEWL, sebum level, melanin, hydration, pH, elasticity, and pore sizes after specified intervals. The results demonstrated that applying O-NLC-E formulation to the skin of volunteers directed significant antiaging benefits. The study offers nanotechnology-based sustainability approach against skin ageing.

Development and Evaluation of an Innovative Approach Using Niosomes Based Polymeric Microneedles to Deliver Dual Antioxidant Drugs

Ascorbic acid (AA) and caffeine (CAFF) work to protect cells from ultraviolet (UV) radiation and slow down the photoaging process of the skin. However, cosmetic application of AA and CAFF is limited due to poor penetration across the skin and rapid oxidation of AA. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the dermal delivery of dual antioxidants utilizing microneedles (MNs) loaded with AA and CAFF niosomes. The niosomal nanovesicles were prepared using the thin film method and had particle sizes ranging from 130.6-411.2 nm and a negative Zeta potential of around -35 mV. The niosomal formulation was then combined with polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG 400) to create an aqueous polymer solution. The best skin deposition of AA and CAFF was achieved with the formulation containing 5% PEG 400 (M3) and PVP. Furthermore, the role of AA and CAFF as antioxidants in preventing cancer formation has been well-established. Here we validated the antioxidant properties of ascorbic acid (AA) and caffeine (CAFF) in a novel niosomal formulation referred to as M3 by testing its ability to prevent H₂O₂-indued cell damage and apoptosis in MCF-7 breast cancer cells. Results showed that M3 was able to shield MCF-7 cells from H₂O₂ induced damage at concentrations below 2.1 µg/mL for AA and 1.05 µg/mL for CAFF, and also exhibited anticancer effects at higher concentrations of 210 µg/mL for AA and 105 µg/mL. The formulations were stable for two months at room temperature in terms of moisture and drug content. The use of MNs and niosomal carriers could be a promising approach for dermal delivery of hydrophilic drugs like AA and CAFF.

Development of SEDDS formulation containing caffeine for dermal delivery

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this work was to develop a self-emulsifying drug delivery system (SEDDS) containing caffeine for the treatment of cellulite.

METHODS

SEDDS were prepared using the solution method. 0.5% (w/v) caffeine was added to the previously selected excipients. The system was characterized by droplet size, zeta potential, emulsification time and long-term stability. In vitro release and skin permeation were investigated using Franz-type diffusion cells. The cytotoxicity was evaluated on normal human keratinocytes.

RESULTS

Caffeine SEDDS were thermodynamically stable, with a zeta potential less than - 22 mV and droplet size around 30 nm, and were long-term stable. The permeation study showed that the formulation promoted caffeine accumulation in the skin layers, suggesting an increase in local circulation. Cytotoxicity studies on HaCaT cells were not conclusive as the surfactant used indicated false-positive results due to its high molar mass.

CONCLUSION

It was possible to obtain a stable SEDDS that could cause an increase in blood flow in the applied area, resulting in cellulite reduction.

Chlorogenic Acids and Caffeine from Coffee By-Products: A Review on Skincare Applications

Upcycling is a modern trend in the cosmetic sector, focusing on by-products reuse and waste reduction. Consumers are more aware of the origin of cosmetic products and their environmental impact, promoting the upcycling phenomenon. Converting these raw materials into products of higher quality or value contributes to the final product’s sustainability. In fact, several agri-food by-products that are typically discarded have generated great interest, due to their value-added compounds with high functionality and/or bioactivity. Coffee is well known as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly due to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids, and caffeine. Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth. Chlorogenic acids are powerful antioxidants and exhibit anti-aging and photoprotector abilities. Coffee by-products, such as coffee beans, possess these bioactive compounds and other chemical characteristics that can provide functional properties in cosmetic formulations. Coffee silverskin and spent coffee grounds are high-volume by-products of the coffee industry. Their use has been explored in different cosmetic formulations demonstrating safety, stability, acceptability as well as skin improvement, thus supporting their valorization as natural and sustainable new ingredients in skincare products.

Salicornia ramosissima: A New Green Cosmetic Ingredient with Promising Skin Effects

This study aims to validate a new cosmetic ingredient from Salicornia ramosissima S J. Woods through in vitro and ex vivo assays. The halophyte extracts were obtained by subcritical water extraction (SWE) at different temperatures (110, 120, 140, 160 and 180 °C). The antioxidant/radical scavenging activities and the phenolic profile were screened for all extracts. The optimal extract was assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, while permeation assays were performed in Franz cells. The inhibitory activity of hyaluronidase and elastase was also evaluated. The sample extracted at 180 °C presented the highest phenolic content (1739.28 mg/100 g of dry weight (dw)). Despite not being efficient in the sequestration of ABTS^•+, this extract scavenged the DPPH^• (IC₅₀ = 824.57 µg/mL). The scavenging capacity of superoxide (O₂^•-) and hypochlorous acid (HOCl) was also considerable (respectively, IC₅₀ = 158.87 µg/mL and IC₅₀ = 5.80 µg/mL). The cell viability assays confirmed the absence of negative effects on keratinocytes, while the fibroblasts' viability slightly decreased. The ex vivo permeation of rutin, quercetin and syringic acid after 24 h was, respectively, 11, 20 and 11%. Additionally, the extract showed a good elastase and hyaluronidase inhibitory activity. The results obtained support the S. ramosissima bioactivity as a cosmetic ingredient.

Caffeine-loaded nano/micro-carriers: Techniques, bioavailability, and applications

Caffeine, as one of the most consumed bioactive compounds globally, has gained considerable attention during the last years. Considering the bitter taste and adverse effects of high levels of caffeine consumption, it is crucial to apply a strategy for masking the caffeine's bitter taste and facilitating its programmable deliverance within a long time. Other operational parameters such as food processing parameters, exposure to sunlight and oxygen, and gastrointestinal digestion could also degrade the phenolic compounds in general and caffeine in special. To overcome these challenges, various nano/micro-platforms have been fabricated, including lipid-based (e.g., nanoliposomal vehicles; nanoemulsions, double emulsions, Pickering emulsions; microemulsions; niosomal vehicles; solid lipid nanoparticles and nanostructured lipid carriers), as well as biopolymeric (e.g., nanoparticles; hydrogels, organogels, oleogels; nanofibers and nanotubes; protein-polysaccharide nanocomplexes, conjugates; cyclodextrin inclusion complexes) and inorganic (e.g., gold and silica nanoparticles) nano/micro-structures. In this review, the findings on various caffeine-loaded nano/micro-carriers and their potential applications in functional food products/supplements will be discussed. Also, the controlled release and bioavailability of encapsulated caffeine will be given, and finally, the toxicity and safety of encapsulated caffeine will be presented.

Assessment of a Formulation Containing a Castanea sativa Shells Extract on Skin Face Parameters: In Vivo Evaluation

In the last years, the demand for new eco-friendly ingredients has increased on the cosmetic market. Consumers are more aware of sustainable principles and, simultaneously, more conscious regarding the skin aging process. Chestnut (Castanea sativa) shells are a food by-product produced in high quantities in Europe. This waste has been described as a rich source of phenolic compounds with skin biological effects, such as antioxidant, antiradical, and anti-inflammatory activities. Despite the huge number of assays reporting the richness of chestnut shell extracts in bioactive compounds as well as the development of cosmetic formulations containing these extracts, no in vivo assays have assessed their clinical efficacy in human volunteers. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect on skin face parameters of a formulation containing a chestnut shell extract in human volunteers (n = 22) who applied the product twice per day, for 56 days. For that, biophysical techniques, including Corneometer®, Cutometer®, and PrimosPremium, were employed, allowing the quantification of skin hydration and firmness, as well as of wrinkles’ depth and volume and wrinkles’ skin roughness. The results demonstrated that the formulation led to a slight decrease in roughness and wrinkles’ depth, although no significant differences with respect to a placebo were observed. In addition, a clear improvement of skin hydration was achieved (t0 = 54.00 Arbitrary Units (A.U.) and t56 = 58.62 A.U.). In contrast to the placebo, the active formulation increased skin firmness up to 31.76% in 50.00% of the volunteers, but without significant differences with respect to the placebo, probably due to the short period of treatment. A long-term use of the product is recommended to possibly observe significant differences in all parameters.

In Vitro and Ex Vivo Evaluation of Mangifera indica L. Extract-Loaded Green Nanoparticles in Topical Emulsion against Oxidative Stress and Aging

Although Mangifera indica L. extract (M-Ext) of the peel and kernel possesses potent antioxidant and excellent antiaging qualities, the effects are only partially seen because of the skin’s limited ability to absorb it. M-Ext was loaded into nanolipid carriers (M-NLCs) in this work to create a green topical formulation that would boost antiaging efficacy and address penetration deficit. Compound identification was done using GCMS and atomic absorption spectroscopy for heavy metals in M-Ext. M-Ext was also evaluated against oxidative stress antioxidant enzymes. The M-NLCs were fabricated and evaluated for their physicochemical characterizations. Cytotoxicity and cell permeation analysis of M-Ext and M-NLCs were carried out in fibroblasts and HaCaT cell lines. An ex vivo permeation study of M-Ext and M-NLC-loaded emulsion was performed through rat skin and the kinetic parameters were determined. Kinetic data showed that the ex vivo permeation of M-NLC-loaded emulsion through rat skin followed the Higuchi model. The safety profile was evaluated in human volunteers after written consent. Three months’ in vivo investigations were conducted using the optimized M-NLC-loaded emulsion and vehicle (B-NLC-loaded emulsion) on human cheeks for comparison. The volunteers’ skin erythema level, melanin contents, TEWL index, moisture contents, sebum level, elasticity, pH, and pore size were examined after the first, second, and third month via noninvasive techniques. There were significant findings for physicochemical characterizations and in vitro and ex vivo studies. The findings demonstrate that the green nanolipid carriers amplified the overall antioxidant effectiveness and may represent an emerging treatment strategy for oxidative stresses and aging.

Comprehensive Quality Evaluation for Medicinal and Edible Ziziphi Spinosae Semen before and after Rancidity Based on Traditional Sensory, Physicochemical Characteristics, and Volatile Compounds

To comprehensively evaluate the quality of medicinal and edible Ziziphi Spinosae Semen (ZSS, the dried ripe seeds of Ziziphus jujuba var. spinosa) before and after rancidity during storage, some indicators including traditional sensory properties, physicochemical characteristics, and volatile compounds were analyzed. As a result, compared with the normal samples, the rancid samples of ZSS produced a darker color, a bitter taste, and an irritating odor, increased moisture content, electrical conductivity, fatty oil content, and acid value, and decreased water- and alcohol-soluble extract contents and pH value. Among them, the acid value had significant difference (p < 0.01) from 3.90 of normal ZSS to 18.68 mg/g of rancid ZSS. A total of 39 volatile compounds were identified in samples, including 20 in normal ZSS and 38 compounds in rancid ZSS. Nineteen common compounds were identified in normal and rancid samples. Among them, the content of 10 compounds such as δ-limonene, (R,R)-2,3-butanediol, and (R,S)-2,3-butanediol was decreased but that of nine compounds such as acetic acid, n-octanoic acid, and n-nonanoic acid was increased in rancid ZSS. Nineteen unique compounds such as β-phellandrene, α-pinene, and 3-carene were detected and only one compound, δ-cadinene, was not detected in rancid ZSS. In addition, eight short-chain organic acids, acetic, propanoic, butanoic, pentanoic, hexanoic, heptanoic, octanoic, and nonanoic acids, were new products in rancid ZSS, and it was speculated that the production of a series of organic acids might be the material basis of irritating odor after normal ZSS became rancid. This is the first report that a series of short-chain organic acids have been found in a rancid substance. In conclusion, there was a significant difference between normal and rancid ZSS. These indicators could be used as an early warning for judging the rancidity phenomenon of medicinal and edible ZSS. In addition, this is the first comprehensive evaluation about the rancidity process of a medicinal and edible substance.

The importance of metrological tools to implementation of alternative method OECD TG 428

Usually, if percutaneous absorption tests are conducted in accordance with OECD Guideline 428, in vitro determination is accepted by mainly regulatory agencies. In this paper, we focus on the lack of comparability of the results regarding the permeation parameter/flow rate, although it is widely discussed in the literature. This work sought to evaluate the absorption of caffeine using Franz-type diffusion cell with porcine ear skin samples, varying the storage duration and the way to handle them. Metrological tools were used for caffeine quantification such as certified reference material candidate, calibrated instruments, and validated methodology. Our results corroborate with the recommendation that membranes should be freshly prepared or frozen for short periods. Samples frozen for approximately one year should not be used because they present high cutaneous absorption. The results obtained for the absorption rate (J) are comparable to the results obtained by previous studies using similar experimental conditions. The evidence of the barrier characteristic promoted by the stratum corneum and the effect promoted by the storage time is shown through J = 6.25 ± 0.48 μg/cm²/h. We demonstrated the importance of metrological tools to guarantee reproducibility and comparability of the results between different laboratories.

Polymeric Hydrogels for Controlled Release of Black Tea and Coffee Extracts for Topical Applications

Tea and coffee are popular beverages. Both are also used in topical applications, such as ultraviolet (UV) protection, anti-aging, and wound healing. However, the impact of tea and coffee extract on skin cells is minimally explored. This study investigated the direct exposure of tea and coffee extract on skin cells using a 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl-2H-tetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay. It was found that direct exposure of tea and coffee to skin cells can be toxic at a high dose on prolonged exposure (72 h). Therefore, it was hypothesized that a formulation providing a controlled release of tea and coffee could improve their skin compatibility. Thermally cross-linked poly(acrylic acid) hydrogels loaded with tea and coffee extracts (with and without milk) were formulated and optimized. The release profiles of these hydrogels were studied at varying loading efficiency. Milk addition with tea extract retarded the tea extract release from hydrogel while minimally affecting the coffee release. This effect was due to the molecular interaction of tea with milk components, showing changes in size, zeta potential, and polydispersity index. The release study best fitted the Korsmeyer-Peppas release model. Skin cells exposed to tea or coffee-loaded hydrogel showed normal skin cell morphology under fluorescence microscopic analysis. In conclusion, the hydrogels controlled the tea and coffee release and showed biocompatibility with skin cells. It can potentially be used for skin applications.

Challenges of nanotechnology in cosmetic permeation with caffeine

The evolution of beauty market and personal care is constant in Brazil as well in the rest of the world. Technological advances have brought up nanotechnology to the cosmetological field, employing active principles at atoms enveloped by vesicles, in order to take the active principle precisely to the target tissue to optimize the results achieved because of the considerable ease to cross skin barriers. Manufacturing of nanotechnology cosmetics is confronted with low absorption capacity. One of the many active principle found in cosmetic industry is caffeine, a pseudoalkaloid from the xanthine group used as a stimulant with the mechanism of the lipolytic action. This active is widely used in ​​a esthetics and cosmetics field in treatments involving dysfunctions such as localized fat and fibroedema geloid. To work out perfectly, the principle active need to interact and create a set of factors that includes lipolysis intensification. The caffeine encapsulation in gel-based nanocosmetics has the purpose of taking this active up to the adipocyte, the target cell, for mentioned dysfunctions treatment. Thus, we aim to present a review of how has been, the use of caffeine in the production of cosmetics.

Potential applications of by-products from the coffee industry in polymer technology - Current state and perspectives

Coffee is one of the most popular beverages in the world, and its popularity is continuously growing, which can be expressed by almost doubling production over the last three decades. Cultivation, processing, roasting, and brewing coffee are known for many years. These processes generate significant amounts of by-products since coffee bean stands for around 50% of the coffee cherry. Therefore, considering the current pro-ecological trends, it is essential to develop the utilization methods for the other 50% of the coffee cherry. Among the possibilities, much attention is drawn to polymer chemistry and technology. This industry branch may efficiently consume different types of lignocellulosic materials to use them as fillers for polymer composites or as intermediate sources of particular chemical compounds. Moreover, due to their chemical composition, coffee industry by-products may be used as additives modifying the oxidation resistance, antimicrobial, or antifungal properties of polymeric materials. These issues should be considered especially important in the case of biodegradable polymers, whose popularity is growing over the last years. This paper summarizes the literature reports related to the generation and composition of the coffee industry by-products, as well as the attempts of their incorporation into polymer technology. Moreover, potential directions of research based on the possibilities offered by the coffee industry by-products are presented.

The Role of Bioactive Compounds and other Metabolites from Mushrooms against Skin Disorders- A Systematic Review Assessing their Cosmeceutical and Nutricosmetic Outcomes

Bioactive compounds derived from mushrooms have been shown to present promising potential as cosmeceutical or nutricosmetic ingredients. Scientific data reviewed herein showed that extracts prepared from medicinal and edible mushrooms and their individual metabolites presented antiinflammatory, antioxidant, photoprotective, antimicrobial, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anticollagenase activities. These metabolites can be utilised as ingredients to suppress the severity of Inflammatory Skin Diseases, offer photoprotection to the skin, and correct Hyperpigmentation. However, studies regarding the molecular mechanism behind the mentioned bioactivities are still lacking. Challenges associated with the use of mushroom extracts and their associated metabolites as cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic ingredients include several steps from the fruiting bodies to the final product: extraction optimization, estimation of the efficacy and safety claims, the use of micro and nanocarriers to allow for controlled release and the pros and cons associated with the use of extracts vs individual compounds. This systematic review highlights that mushrooms contain diverse biomolecules that can be sustainably used in the development of nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical formulations. Reports regarding stability, compatibility, and safety assessment, but also toxicological studies are still needed to be considered. Furthermore, some of the constraints and limitations hindering the development of this type of ingredients still require long-term studies to achieve major breakthroughs.

Electrospun wound dressing as a promising tool for the therapeutic delivery of ascorbic acid and caffeine

Aim: The aim of this work is to formulate a wound dressing for the delivery of ascorbic acid and caffeine. Method: A wound dressing was developed from electrospun nanofiber containing ascorbic acid and caffeine. In vitro drug release was performed at 25°C and 32°C. Wound healing activity of the nanofiber mats was tested in vivo using rat model with skin excision. Antifungal activity of the dressing was tested on Candida albicans using the disc diffusion method. Results & conclusion: Zone of inhibition was 6.7 mm for caffeine dressing; however, inhibition zone increased to 16.7 mm for samples containing both caffeine and ascorbic acid. Animals treated with ascorbic acid showed collagen deposition and very few fibroblast cells. Blood vessels and fibroblasts were increased in caffeine-loaded dressings compared with the ascorbic acid group. The findings of the present work suggest the benefits of topical ascorbic acid and caffeine for its high wound healing effects.

Bio-Functional Textiles: Combining Pharmaceutical Nanocarriers with Fibrous Materials for Innovative Dermatological Therapies

In the field of pharmaceutical technology, significant attention has been paid on exploiting skin as a drug administration route. Considering the structural and chemical complexity of the skin barrier, many research works focused on developing an innovative way to enhance skin drug permeation. In this context, a new class of materials called bio-functional textiles has been developed. Such materials consist of the combination of advanced pharmaceutical carriers with textile materials. Therefore, they own the possibility of providing a wearable platform for continuous and controlled drug release. Notwithstanding the great potential of these materials, their large-scale application still faces some challenges. The present review provides a state-of-the-art perspective on the bio-functional textile technology analyzing the several issues involved. Firstly, the skin physiology, together with the dermatological delivery strategy, is keenly described in order to provide an overview of the problems tackled by bio-functional textiles technology. Secondly, an overview of the main dermatological nanocarriers is provided; thereafter the application of these nanomaterial to textiles is presented. Finally, the bio-functional textile technology is framed in the context of the different dermatological administration strategies; a comparative analysis that also considers how pharmaceutical regulation is conducted.

Another Reason for Using Caffeine in Dermocosmetics: Sunscreen Adjuvant

The excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main cause of skin cancer, the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the world. In this context, the development of innovative and more effective sunscreens, with bioactive compounds like caffeine, displaying antioxidant and anticancer potential, is required. This research work assessed in vitro and in vivo the efficacy and safety of topical sunscreen formulations containing caffeine as an adjuvant of the UV filters. Sunscreens were prepared with 2.5% w/w caffeine or in the absence of this compound. In order to evaluate the safety of these formulations, stratum corneum hydration, skin barrier and colorimetry were assessed in vivo in healthy subjects before and after skin treatment with the samples. The efficacy of the sunscreens was assessed in vitro, using PMMA plates and a spectrophotometer equipped with an integrating sphere; and in vivo by the determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). None of the formulations caused erythema or impaired the skin barrier function. The in vitro functional characterization showed higher SPF values for the caffeine formulation. The in vivo studies also confirmed the higher SPF value of the formulation combining caffeine with the filters, compared to the caffeine-free sample. This improvement contributed to an increase of, approximately, 25% in the in vivo anti-UVB protection. In conclusion, caffeine was well tolerated by the skin and increased the photoprotective activity, being a new alternative adjuvant in sunscreens formulation.

Overcoming the Limits of Flash Nanoprecipitation: Effective Loading of Hydrophilic Drug into Polymeric Nanoparticles with Controlled Structure

Flash nanoprecipitation (FNP) is a widely used technique to prepare particulate carriers based on various polymers, and it was proven to be a promising technology for the industrial production of drug loaded nanoparticles. However, up to now, only its application to hydrophobic compounds has been deeply studied and the encapsulation of some strongly hydrophilic compounds, such as caffeine, remains a challenge. Caffeine loaded poly-ε-caprolactone (PCL) nanoparticles were produced in a confined impinging jet mixer using acetone as the solvent and water as the antisolvent. Caffeine was dissolved either in acetone or in water to assess the effects of two different process conditions. Nanoparticles properties were assessed in terms of loading capacity (LC%), encapsulation efficiency (EE%), and in vitro release kinetics. Samples were further characterized by dynamic light scattering, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray photo electron spectroscopy, and infrared spectroscopy to determine the size, morphology, and structure of nanoparticles. FNP was proved an effective technique for entrapping caffeine in PCL and to control its release behavior. The solvent used to solubilize caffeine influences the final structure of the obtained particles. It was observed that the active principle was preferentially adsorbed at the surface when using acetone, while with water, it was embedded in the matrix structure. The present research highlights the possibility of extending the range of applications of FNP to hydrophilic molecules.

Formulation and Evaluation of Organogels Containing Hyaluronan Microparticles for Topical Delivery of Caffeine

Cellulite is a dermal disorder including the extracellular matrix, the lymphatic and microcirculatory systems and the adipose tissue. Caffeine is used as the active moiety depending its preventive effect on localization of fat in the cellular structure. Hyaluronic acid (hyaluronan-HA) is a natural constituent of skin that generates formation and poliferation of new cells having a remarkable moisturizing ability. The aim of this study is to formulate HA microparticles loaded with caffeine via spray-drying method. Resulting microparticle formulations (33.97 ± 0.3 μm, span < 2, 88.56 ± 0.42% encapsulation efficiency) were distributed in lecithin organogels to maintain the proper viscosity for topical application. Following the characterization and cell culture studies, in vitro drug release and ex vivo permeation studies were performed. The accumulated amount of caffeine was twice higher than the aqueous solution for the microparticle-loaded organogels at 24 h (8262,673 μg/cm²versus 4676,691 μg/cm²). It was related to the sustained behaviour of caffeine release from the microparticles. As a result, lecithin organogel containing HA-encapsulated microparticles could be considered as suitable candidate formulations for efficient topical drug delivery system of caffeine. In addition to that, synergistic effect of this combination appears as a promising approach for long-acting treatment of cellulite.

Coffee Silverskin: A Review on Potential Cosmetic Applications

Coffee silverskin, the major coffee-roasting by-product, is currently used as fuel and for soil fertilization. However, there are several studies reporting silverskin as a good source of bioactive compounds that can be extracted and further used by cosmetic industry. Its high antioxidant potential may be due to the synergistic interaction of chlorogenic acids (1–6%), caffeine (0.8–1.25%), and melanoidins (17–23%), among other antioxidant compounds. The bioactive compounds of silverskin can answer to the new fields of cosmetic industry on natural active ingredient resources that improve health skin appearance, counteract skin aging and related diseases, in an environmentally friendly approach. Skin aging is a complex process associated with oxidative metabolism and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. ROS production increase matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), as well as pro-inflammatory mediators, resulting in consequent skin damage and aging. To counteract this process, cosmetic industry is looking for compounds able to increase MMP inhibitory activities, hyaluronidase inhibitory activity, expression of collagen and elastase inhibitory activity, as potential bioactive ingredients with anti-aging purposes. This review focuses on skin aging factors and the potential anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-cellulite and anti-hair loss activity, as well as protection against UV damage, of coffee silverskin and their bioactive compounds.