Relationship between sensorial and physical characteristics of topical creams: A comparative study on effects of excipients

Lignin gel emulsions for environmentally benign hair conditioning

Hair care products have complex surfactant and stabilizer compositions arising from oleochemicals, raising concerns over sustainability. Here, we show a fully biobased hair conditioner based on micellar lignin gels that stabilize emulsions with triglyceride oils. We demonstrate competitive emulsion stability, rheological properties, and performance relative to an off-the-shelf commercial product. Lignin gel emulsion with a 6% weight fraction of coconut oil effectively lubricates damaged hair, confirmed by a 13% reduction in wet combing force and validated through multiscale microscopy analysis. Notably, organic solvent-free production simplifies the ingredient list and offers an environmentally benign route for lignin utilization in hair care.

Transitioning from Pickering emulsions to Pickering emulsion hydrogels: A potential advancement in cosmeceuticals

Cosmeceuticals, focusing on enhancing skin health and appearance, heavily rely on emulsions as one of the common mediums. These emulsions pose a challenge due to their dependence on surfactants which are essential for stability but are causing concerns about environmental impact as well as evolving consumer preferences. This has led to research focused on Pickering emulsions (PEs), which are colloidal particle-based emulsion alternatives. Compared to conventional emulsions, PEs offer enhanced stability and functionality in addition to serving as a sustainable alternative but still pose challenges such as rheological control and requiring further improvement in long-term stability, whereby the limitations could be addressed through the introduction of a hydrogel network. In this review, we first highlight the strategies and considerations to optimize active ingredient (AI) absorption and penetration in a PE-based formulation. We then delve into a comprehensive overview of the potential of Pickering-based cosmeceutical emulsions including their attractive features, the various Pickering particles that can be employed, past studies and their limitations. Further, PE hydrogels (PEHs), which combines the features between PE and hydrogel as an innovative solution to address challenges posed by both conventional emulsions and PEs in the cosmeceutical industry is explored. Moreover, concerns related to toxicity and biocompatibility are critically examined, alongside considerations of scalability and commercial viability, providing a forward-looking perspective on potential future research directions centered on the application of PEHs in the cosmeceutical field.

Predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental characterizations: A review

Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and 'Check-all-that-apply') are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters.

Topical pickering emulsion versus classical excipients: A study of the residual film on the human skin

The interest in Pickering emulsions is based on the possibility of replacing classical emulsifiers with solid particles. These emulsions are very attractive in the pharmaceutical field for their stability virtues and as a vehicle to deliver active ingredients. The study aimed to analyze the properties of the residual film of the Pickering emulsions on the human skin compared to conventional systems. For this project, three types of solid particles were used: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and silicon dioxide. All of them are capable of stabilizing the oil/water interface and thus forming totally emulsified systems. To create an emulsion of reference, a classical surfactant was used as an excipient. Complementary systems containing both particles and the emulsifier were also analyzed. Then, a combined approach between physicochemical and biometrological in vivo analysis was employed. The study proved that Pickering emulsions stabilized by the metal oxides were distinct from the reference emulsion in terms of droplet sizes and organization, rheological and textural responses. Consequently, it impacted the properties of the residual film once the product was applied to the skin. The particle-stabilized emulsions formed a hydrophobic film counter to conventional excipients. Also, the Friction parameter (or the roughness of the film) was directly linked to the quantity of the particles used in the formulation and their perception on the skin surface. The use of the particles blurs the glossy effect of the oil phase. Finally, it was observed that the appearance of the residual film was impacted by the type of the particle, namely TiO2 and ZnO particles.

Deep Learning Model for Cosmetic Gel Classification Based on a Short-Time Fourier Transform and Spectrogram

Cosmetics and topical medications, such as gels, foams, creams, and lotions, are viscoelastic substances that are applied to the skin or mucous membranes. The human perception of these materials is complex and involves multiple sensory modalities. Traditional panel-based sensory evaluations have limitations due to individual differences in sensory receptors and factors such as age, race, and gender. Therefore, this study proposes a deep-learning-based method for systematically analyzing and effectively identifying the physical properties of cosmetic gels. Time-series friction signals generated by rubbing the gels were measured. These signals were preprocessed through short-time Fourier transform (STFT) and continuous wavelet transform (CWT), respectively, and the frequency factors that change over time were distinguished and analyzed. The deep learning model employed a ResNet-based convolution neural network (CNN) structure with optimization achieved through a learning rate scheduler. The optimized STFT-based 2D CNN model outperforms the CWT-based 2D and 1D CNN models. The optimized STFT-based 2D CNN model also demonstrated robustness and reliability through k-fold cross-validation. This study suggests the potential for an innovative approach to replace traditional expert panel evaluations and objectively assess the user experience of cosmetics.

Sustainable Alternatives to Petroleum-Derived Excipients in Pharmaceutical Oil-in-Water Creams

Recently, vast efforts towards sustainability have been made in the pharmaceutical industry. In conventional oil-in-water (O/W) cream formulations, various petroleum-based excipients, namely mineral oil and petrolatum, are commonly used. Natural or synthetic excipients, derived from vegetable sources, were explored as alternatives to petroleum-based excipients in prototype topical creams, with 1% (w/w) lidocaine. A conventional cream comprised of petroleum-derived excipients was compared to creams containing sustainable excipients in terms of key quality and performance attributes, physicochemical properties, and formulation performance. The petrolatum-based control formulation had the highest viscosity of 248.0 Pa·s, a melting point of 42.7°C, a low separation index at 25°C of 0.031, and an IVRT flux of 52.9 µg/cm2/h. Formulation SUS-4 was the least viscous formulation at 86.9 Pa·s, had the lowest melting point of 33.6°C, the highest separation index of 0.120, and the highest IVRT flux of 139.4 µg/cm2/h. Alternatively, SUS-5 had a higher viscosity of 131.3 Pa·s, a melting point of 43.6°C, a low separation index of 0.046, and the lowest IVRT flux of 25.2 µg/cm2/h. The cumulative drug permeation after 12 h from SUS-4, SUS-5, and the control were 126.2 µg/cm2, 113.8 µg/cm2, and 108.1 µg/cm2, respectively. The composition of the oil-in-water creams had influence on physicochemical properties and drug release; however, skin permeation was not impacted. Sustainable natural or synthetic excipients in topical cream formulations were found to be suitable alternatives to petroleum-based excipients with comparable key quality attributes and performance attributes and should be considered during formulation development.

Emollients in dermatological creams: Early evaluation for tailoring formulation and therapeutic performance

The targeted choice of the emollient of a cream determines its physicochemical properties and clinical effectiveness. This work researched the effects of emollient properties on the final characteristics and potential performance of oil-in-water dermatological creams. Seven emollients with different chemical characteristics and structures (alkane, triglyceride, ether, silicone, vegetable oils, and mineral oil) were tested in a model formulation. Early stability, pH, droplet size distribution, rheology, tackiness, adhesivity, spreadability, tribology, and release profile of a lipophilic substance model (in Franz cells, through a synthetic membrane, for six hours) were assessed. The creams had acid epicutaneous pH and a "shear-thinning" "solid-like" viscoelastic behavior. Among the seven emollients' properties, polarity, density, and viscosity were the most influential. Droplet parameters were the most impacted, pH and release were moderately affected, and the textural properties were lowly to moderately impacted. The emollient substitution in the model formulation affected the experimental parameters differently, allowing formulation optimization and tailoring its potential therapeutic performance regarding drug release, coadjutant effects, and dwell time on the skin. By looking at the creams' characteristics, it was possible to select the best-suited emollients for releasing a lipophilic drug, applying on painful skin, and formulation in wash-off products or leave-on protective barrier creams.

Skin quality sensor to evaluate vibration and friction generated when sliding over skins

OBJECTIVE

The mechanical condition and tactile evaluation of skin are essential for the development of skin care products. Most of the existing commercial instruments and studies aim to evaluate the skin surface by pressing it for hardness or by using imaging sensors, but there have been few instrumental measurements employing rubbing motion. Here, we have developed a sensor specialized for tactile sensation and the contact phenomenon during skin rubbing.

METHODS

The developed sensor has three features: It can measure body parts including cheeks and arms, automate the rubbing motion of the probe and measure vibration and friction simultaneously. It is hand-held, with metal probes that rub the skin surface while rotating under a motor drive; it has an accelerometer and a force sensor beneath the probe measuring vibration and friction forces. To evaluate the validity of the sensor's measurements, artificial skin models were measured using the developed sensor and commercially available sensors and the results were compared. The relationship between the sensor output, surface roughness measurement and sensory evaluation was also investigated. Additionally, we evaluated the inter-rater reliability when measuring actual skin.

RESULTS

The measurements of five artificial skin models with different surface shapes showed a high correlation (r = 0.99) between the vibration intensity values evaluated by the developed sensor and those measured by a tri-axial acceleration sensor attached to a fingernail. The correlation coefficient between the vibration intensity values and surface roughness was r = 0.91, and the correlation with the sensory evaluation score of roughness was r = 0.99. The friction coefficients measured by the developed sensor and the force plate had r = 0.93, based on measurements of five artificial skin models with different friction conditions. The inter-rater correlation coefficients between the three participants of the developed sensor were as high as 0.92 and 0.94 for the vibration and friction measurements respectively.

CONCLUSION

The vibration intensities and friction coefficients from the sensor were highly correlated with those of the conventional sensor. The inter-rater reliability was also high. The developed sensor can be useful for tactile evaluation in skin-care product development.

Physicochemical characterization and cosmetic application of kelp blanching water polysaccharides

Seaweeds account for half of global mariculture and have become a key player in bio-based industries. Seaweed process typically starts with hot water blanching that helps reduce postharvest quality deterioration but also generates large amounts of hydrothermal waste. This study aims to explore the feasibility of isolating water-soluble biopolymers from seaweed hydrothermal waste and their potential applications. Using Saccharina japonica (formerly Laminaria japonica) blanching water as example, 2.9 g/L of polymeric substances were efficiently isolated by ultrafiltration, implying biopolymer coproduction potential of ~5.8 kt from blanching wastewater of current kelp industry. Physicochemical characterizations revealed polysaccharidic nature of the biopolymers, with high contents of fucose, uronic acids and sulfate, showing distinct but also overlapping structural features with hot water-extracted kelp polysaccharides. The main fraction of the blanching water polymers after anion exchange chromatography was acidic polysaccharide, the major backbone residues of which were (1-4) linked mannopyranose, (1-4) linked gulopyranose and (1-2) linked fucopyranose while the branched residues were primarily 1,3,4-, 1,2,4- and 1,4,6-linked hexoses but also 1,3,4-fucopyranose. Furthermore, the polysaccharides were found to have a good compatibility in cosmetic creams with added cohesiveness and freshness, demonstrating the application potential of such natural biopolymers from currently underexplored seaweed blanching water.

Development of multifunctional sunscreens: Evaluation of physico-mechanical and film-forming properties

The exposome consists of several factors such as solar radiation and pollution, which can provoke skin damage and lead to premature skin aging. Thus, the use of multifunctional sunscreens is critical in order to prevent this damage. In addition, film formation is very important to reach the expected SPF. Within this context, the objective of the present study was to develop and evaluate the in vivo SPF, sensory, physico-mechanical, and film-forming properties of sunscreens containing a biopolymer from Tara and red algae. A clinical study of the film-forming effect and of skin hydration was performed by instrumental measurements and by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The SPF of both formulations, with or without the biopolymer, was 45.6. This result was 10.09% higher than expected. higher than expected. However, the sunscreen added to the biopolymer showed better sensory and texture properties, significantly increased skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss. The film-forming property was observed by the analysis of Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images 2, 4, and 6 h after formulation application, and this result was more pronounced for the sunscreen added to the biopolymer. Thus, the film-forming property of the biopolymer was important for prolonging the skin barrier function due to film formation and to obtain more effective and multifunctional sunscreens that provide longer protection.

Unconventional and conventional Pickering emulsions: Perspectives and challenges in skin applications

Pickering emulsions are free from molecular and classical surfactants and are stabilized by solid particles, creating long-term stability against emulsion coalescence. Additionally, these emulsions are both environmentally and skin-friendly, creating new and unexplored sensorial perceptions. Although the literature mostly describes conventional emulsions (oil-in-water), there are unconventional emulsions (multiple, oil-in-oil and water-in-water) with excellent prospects and challenges in skin application as oil-free systems, permeation enhancers and topical drug delivery agents, with various possibilities in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. However, up to now, these conventional and unconventional Pickering emulsions are not yet available as commercial products. This review brings to the discussion some important aspects such as the use of phases, particles, rheological and sensorial perception, as well as current trends in the development of these emulsions.

Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment

Since natural-origin, sustainable ingredients are preferred by modern consumers, novel emulsifiers and emollients keep entering the market. This study hypothesizes that a combination of in silico, instrumental tools and simplified sensory studies could be used to efficiently characterize emulsions in a shorter timeframe. A total of 22 rather simple o/w emulsions were prepared by a time/energy-saving emulsification process. A natural mixed emulsifier (Lauryl Glucoside/Myristyl Glucoside/Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate) and two emollients (both with INCI name C15-19 Alkane) were used. The performed D-optimal experimental design within the response surface method (RSM) significantly narrowed down the number of samples about to enter the stage of texture, friction and sensory studies to the samples comprising 30% of a respective Emogreen emollient and 2% or 3% of the emulsifier. The sample comprising 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen^® L15 showed significantly higher firmness (42.12 mN) when compared to the one with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen^® L19 (33.62 mN), which was somewhat unexpected considering the emollients' inherent viscosity values (4.5 mPa·s for L15 and 9 mPa·s for L19). The sample with 2% emulsifier/30% Emogreen^® L19 managed to maintain the lowest friction, while the one with 3% emulsifier/30% Emogreen^® L19 released its full lubricating potential in the second part of the measurement (30-60 s). The obtained results revealed the strengths and weaknesses of each formulation, narrowing down their possible applications in the early development stage.