Analysis of in vitro release through reconstructed human epidermis and synthetic membranes of multi-vitamins from cosmetic formulations

Carbomer Hydrogels with Microencapsulated α-Tocopherol: Focus on the Biocompatibility of the Microcapsules, Topical Application Attributes, and In Vitro Release Study

The microencapsulation of α-tocopherol based on the complex coacervation of low-molecular-weight chitosan (LMWC) and sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES) without harmful crosslinkers can provide biocompatible carriers that protect it from photodegradation and air oxidation. In this study, the influence of the microcapsule wall composition on carrier performance, compatibility with a high-water-content vehicle for topical application, and release of α-tocopherol were investigated. Although the absence of aldehyde crosslinkers decreased the encapsulation efficiency of α-tocopherol (~70%), the variation in the LMWC/SLES mass ratio (2:1 or 1:1) had no significant effect on the moisture content and microcapsule size. The prepared microcapsule-loaded carbomer hydrogels were soft semisolids with pseudoplastic flow behavior. The integrity of microcapsules embedded in the hydrogel was confirmed by light microscopy. The microcapsules reduced the pH, apparent viscosity, and hysteresis area of the hydrogels, while increasing their spreading ability on a flat inert surface and dispersion rate in artificial sweat. The in vitro release of α-tocopherol from crosslinker-free microcapsule-loaded hydrogels was diffusion-controlled. The release profile was influenced by the LMWC/SLES mass ratio, apparent viscosity, type of synthetic membrane, and acceptor medium composition. Better data quality for the model-independent analysis was achieved when a cellulose nitrate membrane and ethyl alcohol 60% w/w as acceptor medium were used.

Strat-M® positioning for skin permeation studies: A comparative study including EpiSkin® RHE, and human skin

In the development and optimization of dermatological products, In Vitro Permeation Testing (IVPT) is pivotal for controlled study of skin penetration. To enhance standardization and replicate human skin properties reconstructed human skin and synthetic membranes are explored as alternatives. Strat-M® is a membrane designed to mimic the multi-layered structure of human skin for IVPT. For instance, in Strat-M®, the steady-state fluxes (JSS) of resorcinol in formulations free of permeation enhancers were found to be 41 ± 5 µg/cm2·h for the aqueous solution, 42 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the hydrogel, and 40 ± 6 µg/cm2·h for the oil-in-water emulsion. These results were closer to excised human skin (5 ± 3, 9 ± 2, 13 ± 6 µg/cm2·h) and surpassed the performance of EpiSkin® RHE (138 ± 5, 142 ± 6, and 162 ± 11 µg/cm2·h). While mass spectrometry and Raman microscopy demonstrated the qualitative molecular similarity of EpiSkin® RHE to human skin, it was the porous and hydrophobic polymer nature of Strat-M® that more faithfully reproduced the skin's diffusion-limiting barrier. Further validation through similarity factor analysis (∼80-85%) underscored Strat-M®'s significance as a reliable substitute for human skin, offering a promising approach to enhance realism and reproducibility in dermatological product development.

Sustainable Setups for the Biocatalytic Production and Scale-Up of Panthenyl Monoacyl Esters under Solvent-Free Conditions

A sustainable scaling-up process for the biocatalytic production of new bioactive provitamin-B₅ monoacyl esters has been demonstrated. A solvent-free reaction protocol, based on the formation of eutectic mixtures between neat substrates, renders highly efficient direct esterification of free fatty acids (i.e., from C₆ to C₁₈ alkyl-chain length) with panthenol catalyzed by lipase. The scale-up from 0.5 to 500 g was evaluated by means of using several reaction systems (i.e., ultrasound assistance, orbital shaking, rotary evaporator, and mechanical stirring coupled to vacuum). For all reactor systems, the yield in panthenyl monoacyl esters was improved by increasing the length of the alkyl chain of the fatty acid (i.e., from 63% yield for panthenyl butyrate to 83% yield for panthenyl myristate). The best results (87-95% product yield, for all cases) were obtained upon a scale-up (50-500 g size) and when a vacuum system was coupled to the biocatalytic reaction unit. Under the optimized conditions, a 5-fold reduction of the amount of biocatalysts with respect to reactors without vacuum was achieved. The recovery and reuse of the immobilized enzyme for five operation cycles were also demonstrated. Finally, different metrics have been applied to assess the greenness of the solvent-free biocatalytic synthesis of panthenyl monoesters here reported.

Nanomaterials fusing with the skin: Alpha-tocopherol phosphate delivery into the viable epidermis to protect against ultraviolet radiation damage

Vitamin E (alpha tocopherol, α-T) is an important skin antioxidant, but its penetration into the viable epidermis, where it acts, is very limited. This study investigated if phosphorylating α-tocopherol (α-TP) to form a provitamin, improved its interactions with skin, its passage into the tissue, and thus its ability to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation (UVR) damage. At pH 7.4, when the α-TPO₄^-1 microspecies predominated in solution, dynamic light scattering measurements showed that α-TP formed nanoaggregates with a median hydrodynamic diameter of 9 nm (Critical aggregation constant, CAC, - 4.2 mM). At 9.0 when the α-TPO₄^-2 microspecies predominated there was no aggregation. The passage of α-TP nanoaggregates through regenerated cellulose membranes was significantly slower than the α-TP monomers (at pH 9) suggesting that aggregation slowed diffusion. However, a lotion formulation containing the nanoaggregates delivered more α-TP into the skin compared to the formulation containing the monomers. In addition, the nanosized α-TP aggregates delivered 8-fold more active into the stratum corneum (SC) (252.2 μg/cm² vs 29.5 μg/cm²) and 4 fold more active into the epidermis (85.1 μg/cm² vs 19 μg/cm², respectively, p < 0.05) compared to α-T. Langmuir subphase injection studies at pH 7.4 (surface pressure 10 mN m^-1) showed that the α-TP nanoaggregates more readily fused with the SC compared to the monomers and the membrane compression studies demonstrated that α-TP fluidised the SC lipids. Together the fusion with the SC and its fluidisation were proposed as the causes of the better α-TP penetration into the skin, which enhanced potential of α-TP to protect from UVR-induced skin damage compared to α-T.

Evaluation of the effect of hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin on topical administration of milk thistle extract

Two water in oil emulsions composed by eudermic ingredients as glycerin, cocoa butter, almond oil and a variety of lipids, were enriched respectively with milk thistle dry extract (MT) or with a binary complex composed by MT and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP) (1:4 w/w) correspondent to 1% (w/w) in sylimarine in order to obtain two different emulsions designed for the skin delivery and determine influence of hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin on the extract delivery and permeation. Uv-vis spectrophotometric analyses demonstrated that phytocomplex formation influences the finding of MT after the complexation process and the in vitro antioxidant activity. Further in vitro and ex vivo experiments demonstrated that the penetration capability of MT from formulations is strictly influenced by the phytocomplex able to control MT permeation; moreover phytocomplex increases flavonoids stability during the in vitro tests. Additionally, in vivo studies showed that the penetration into the stratum corneum of the active ingredients is effectively achieved by the phytocomplex formation, in fact about 80% of MT is absorbed by the skin along 1h despite the 30% of MT not complexed absorbed during the same period.

Active compounds release from semisolid dosage forms

The aim of this paper is to review all the aspects of the in vitro release testing (IVRT) from semisolid dosage forms. Although none of the official dissolution methods has been specified for use with semisolid dosage forms, their utility for assessing release rates of drugs from semisolid dosage forms has become a topic of considerable interest. One can expect to overcome such complexity in the future, when the official "Topical and Transdermal Drug Products-Product Performance Tests" will be published in an issue of the Pharmacopeial Forum. Many factors such as type of the dissolution medium, membrane, temperature, and speed have an influence on the mechanism and kinetics of the release testing from gels, creams, and ointments; therefore, those parameters have been widely discussed.

Lemon (Citrus limon, Burm.f.) essential oil enhances the trans-epidermal release of lipid-(A, E) and water-(B6, C) soluble vitamins from topical emulsions in reconstructed human epidermis

Topical bioavailability of lipid- and water-soluble vitamins is a critical issue for protecting or anti-ageing formulations. Using 17-day-old SkinEthic(®) reconstructed human epidermis, we investigated (at 34°C) the role of lemon EO in enhancing the penetration of α-tocopherol (E) and retinyl acetate (A), pyridoxine (B(6)) and ascorbic acid (C), released from O/W or W/O emulsions. D-limonene, α-pinene and p-cymene (65.9, 2.2 and 0.5%w/w of the oil) had skin permeability coefficients Ps (10(-3) cm h(-1)) of 0.56 ± 0.03 (or 0.73 ± 0.02), 0.72 ± 0.05 (or 0.98 ± 0.05) and 0.84 ± 0.04 (or 1.14 ± 0.04), respectively, when incorporated in a W/O (or O/W) emulsion. Vitamins B6, C and A had Ps values of (3.0 ± 0.4) × 10(-3), (7.9 ± 0.6) × 10(-3) and (0.37 ± 0.02) × 10(-5) cm h(-1), respectively, and their flux through the skin was enhanced by a factor of 4.1, 3.4 and 5.8, respectively, in the presence of lemon EO. The penetration of vitamin E was nine-fold enhanced. Lemon EO produced only reversible modification of TEWL, and it is a safe and effective penetration enhancer for topical administration of lipid- and water-soluble vitamins.

Cell-based in vitro models for predicting drug permeability

INTRODUCTION

In vitro cell models have been used to predict drug permeation in early stages of drug development, since they represent an easy and reproducible method, allowing the tracking of drug absorption rate and mechanism, with an advantageous cost-benefit ratio. Such cell-based models are mainly composed of immortalized cells with an intrinsic ability to grow in a monolayer when seeded in permeable supports, maintaining their physiologic characteristics regarding epithelium cell physiology and functionality.

AREAS COVERED

This review summarizes the most important intestinal, pulmonary, nasal, vaginal, rectal, ocular and skin cell-based in vitro models for predicting the permeability of drugs. Moreover, the similitude between in vitro cell models and in vivo conditions are discussed, providing evidence that each model may provisionally resemble different drug absorption route.

EXPERT OPINION

Despite the widespread use of in vitro cell models for drug permeability and absorption evaluation purposes, a detailed study on the properties of these models and their in vitro-in vivo correlation compared with human data are required to further use in order to consider a future drug discovery optimization and clinical development.