Potential effect of compounds isolated from Coffea arabica against UV-B induced skin damage by protecting fibroblast cells

Chlorogenic acid targets SIRT6 to relieve UVB - induced UV damage

Skin photoaging, one of the most critical types of exogenous skin aging, occurs when the skin is exposed to excessive ultraviolet radiation, leading to a series of skin-aging problems. The objective of this study was to utilize keratinocytes (HaCaT) treated with medium wave ultraviolet (UVB) as a photoaging model to investigate the anti-photoaging activity of chlorogenic acid (CGA) and preliminarily elucidate its underlying mechanism. The crystal violet assay shows that both 100 and 150 µM of CGA can significantly suppress the cell damage induced by 21.6 mJ/cm² UVB. Furthermore, the results of comet electrophoresis and Western Blot (WB) experiments demonstrate that CGA and OSS-128,167 (SIRT6 inhibitor) can effectively inhibit DNA damage caused by UVB, thereby alleviating cell apoptosis. The co-immunoprecipitation (CO-IP) and WB results suggest that CGA and OSS-128,167 can effectively suppress the activity and expression of the deacetylase of SIRT6, thus enhancing the expression of DDB2 and activating the nucleotide excision repair (NER) of cells to achieve the anti-photoaging effect. The aforementioned results imply that CGA activates NER repair and protects cells from UVB-induced damage by inhibiting the deacetylation activity of SIRT6 and subsequently decreasing the deacetylation modification of DDB2. The study elucidates the molecular mechanisms underlying the beneficial effects of CGA on skin photoaging and establishes a theoretical basis for the development of CGA based sunscreen formulations.

Coffee husk valorization through choline chloride/lactic acid (1:10) green catalyst extraction for lignin monomers recovery

The processing of coffee consists on the separation of the grains from other parts of the fruit, then roasted and extracted to obtain the beverage that is so appreciated worldwide. Several studies have dedicated efforts to treat the residue from coffee processing, while recovering lignols of industrial interest. Given this scenario, the nutrients in the coffee husk can enhance microbial growth, providing optimal conditions for the microorganisms to produce metabolites that may have medicinal properties. Deep eutectic solvents (DES) are a class of solvents and/or catalysts designed on demand for specific uses, being used to enhance extraction processes of coffee husk. Our present study was successful establishing conditions where the coffee husk enhanced the growth of microorganisms from two Brazilian biomes, the endophytic fungus from Cerrado and the actinomycete, from Atlantic Rainforest in Boraceia, São Paulo. The DES composed by ChCl/LA (1:10) was selected as cosolvent for the extraction, while it also optimized microbial cultivation conditions. Coffee husk was an excellent supplement for culture media, once the fungus FE316 produced Fumiquinazoline A, Tripprostatin B and Pseurotin A, while the actinomycete AC154 produced Trichorozin-IV as metabolites only expressed when in addition to the coffee husk. UHPLC-MS/MS analysis enabled the annotation of lignin monomer compounds, such as alkaloids, phenylpropanoids and terpenoids present in the coffee husk, more specifically, caffeic acid, isochlorogenic acid B, chlorogenic acid and coniferyl aldehyde, underscoring the value of this biomass.

Full-component extract of Crithmum maritimum and its effect on epidermal regeneration

As a well-known aromatic herb rich in various bioactive molecules, the extract of Crithmum maritimum is widely used in cosmetics. However, the extraction process for Crithmum maritimum is far from perfect. Moreover, the water- and oil-soluble components are too complex to be compatible with each other. Thus, the traditional water- or oil-based extracts of Crithmum maritimum encompass only water- or oil-soluble components, respectively. The effective components being incomplete results in significantly reduced effects. Therefore, obtaining a full-component extract of Crithmum maritimum is imperative to ensure its full functionality. Herein, a full-component extract of Crithmum maritimum based on miscibility between polyol and oil was developed by extracting water-soluble active substances with a ternary solvent, followed by mixing them with oil extracts of Crithmum maritimum. In ternary solvents, most water-soluble compounds of Crithmum maritimum can be extracted by ethanol. During evaporation, the water-soluble components are transferred and dissolved in hexanediol from the solvent. Thus, by blending hexanediol with caprylic/capric triglyceride (GTCC), we successfully created a potent full-component extract of Crithmum maritimum. Through the study of the barrier-weakening 3D full-skin model, it was found that the full-component extract of Crithmum maritimum, rich in chlorogenic acid, could significantly promote the epidermal regeneration of UV-induced skin damage compared to the oil-based extract components.

Beverage consumption and facial skin aging: Evidence from Mendelian randomization analysis

BACKGROUND

Observational studies have linked coffee, alcohol, tea, and sugar-sweetened beverage (SSB) consumption to facial skin aging. However, confounding factors may influence these studies. The present two-sample Mendelian randomization (MR) investigated the potential causal association between beverage consumption and facial skin aging.

METHODS

The single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) associated with coffee, alcohol, and tea intake were derived from the IEU project. The SSB-associated SNPs were selected from a genome-wide association study (GWAS). Data on facial skin aging were derived from the largest GWAS involving 16 677 European individuals. The inverse variance-weighted (IVW) was the main MR analysis method, supplemented by other methods (MR-Egger, weighted median, simple mode, and weighted mode). The MR-Egger intercept analysis was used for sensitivity analysis. Moreover, we conducted a replication analysis using data from another GWAS dataset on coffee consumption to validate our findings.

RESULTS

Four instrumental variables (IVs) sets were used to examine the causal association between beverage consumption (coffee, alcohol, tea, SSB) and facial skin aging. Our results revealed that genetically predicted higher coffee consumption reduced the risk of facial skin aging (OR: 0.852; 95% CI: 0.753-0.964; p = 0.011, IVW method). The sensitivity analysis confirmed the robustness of the findings, with no evidence of pleiotropy or heterogeneity. The results of replicated MR analysis on coffee consumption were consistent with the initial analysis (OR = 0.997; 95% CI = 0.996-0.999; p = 0.003, IVW method).

CONCLUSIONS

This study manifests that higher coffee consumption is significantly associated with a reduced risk of facial skin aging. These findings can offer novel strategies for identifying the underlying etiology of facial skin aging.

Chlorogenic Acid Alleviated AFB1-Induced Hepatotoxicity by Regulating Mitochondrial Function, Activating Nrf2/HO-1, and Inhibiting Noncanonical NF-κB Signaling Pathway

Aflatoxin B1 (AFB1), a kind of mycotoxin, imposes acute or chronic toxicity on humans and causes great public health concerns. Chlorogenic acid (CGA), a natural phenolic substance, shows a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect. This study was conducted to investigate the effect and mechanism of CGA on alleviating cytotoxicity induced by AFB1 in L-02 cells. The results showed that CGA (160 μM) significantly recovered cell viability and cell membrane integrity in AFB1-treated (8 μM) cells. Furthermore, it was found that CGA reduced AFB1-induced oxidative injury by neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS) and activating the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)/heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) signaling pathway. In addition, CGA showed anti-inflammatory effects as it suppressed the expression of inflammation-related genes (IL-6, IL-8, and TNF-α) and AFB1-induced noncanonical nuclear factor kappa-B (NF-κB) activation. Moreover, CGA mitigated AFB1-induced apoptosis by maintaining the mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP) and inhibiting mRNA expressions of Caspase-3, Caspase-8, Bax, and Bax/Bcl-2. These findings revealed a possible mechanism: CGA prevents AFB1-induced cytotoxicity by maintaining mitochondrial membrane potential, activating Nrf2/HO-1, and inhibiting the noncanonical NF-κB signaling pathway, which may provide a new direction for the application of CGA.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Chlorogenic Acids and Caffeine from Coffee By-Products: A Review on Skincare Applications

Upcycling is a modern trend in the cosmetic sector, focusing on by-products reuse and waste reduction. Consumers are more aware of the origin of cosmetic products and their environmental impact, promoting the upcycling phenomenon. Converting these raw materials into products of higher quality or value contributes to the final product’s sustainability. In fact, several agri-food by-products that are typically discarded have generated great interest, due to their value-added compounds with high functionality and/or bioactivity. Coffee is well known as a cosmetic ingredient, particularly due to the presence of phenolic compounds, such as chlorogenic acids, and caffeine. Caffeine is widely used in cosmetic formulations due to its photoprotector and anti-aging properties, as well as lipolytic action in cellulitis, and hair regrowth. Chlorogenic acids are powerful antioxidants and exhibit anti-aging and photoprotector abilities. Coffee by-products, such as coffee beans, possess these bioactive compounds and other chemical characteristics that can provide functional properties in cosmetic formulations. Coffee silverskin and spent coffee grounds are high-volume by-products of the coffee industry. Their use has been explored in different cosmetic formulations demonstrating safety, stability, acceptability as well as skin improvement, thus supporting their valorization as natural and sustainable new ingredients in skincare products.

EVALUATION OF PLANT-BASED UV FILTERS POTENTIAL IN MODERN CONCEPT VIEW OF SKIN PHOTOPROTECTION

A therapeutic plants potential is based on the pharmacological effects due to their phytochemical profile. Today, scientific interest in botanicals is increasing as a result of recent research that looks at the prospect of using these raw materials for the cosmetic industry as a means to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.

The aim of the study was to evaluate a potential of plant-based UV-filters in modern concept view of skin photoprotection.

Materials and methods. A systematic literature search was carried out using the electronic information arrays PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, eLibrary. The search depth was 10 years (the period from 2010 to 2021). The search was carried out by the following keywords: antioxidants, cosmetics, photoprotection, chemical composition, pharmacological action.

Results. In the paper, modern principles of skin photoprotection based on the use of chemical or physical UV-filters are considered and scientifically substantiated A trend for the use of plant-based materials and their components in the formulation of photoprotectors was notified. That is associated with a wide activity spectrum, the absence of a xenobiotic effect, and a high bioavailability of organic plant compounds.

Conclusion. The data analysis from scientific publications demonstrated a potential photoprotective activity of plant-based biologically active substances due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-radical effects. The results of the study are a theoretical basis for a further comprehensive experimental study of plant objects in order to obtain a pool of evidence in the field of photoprotection in in vivo experiments.

Moroccan medicinal plants traditionally used for the treatment of skin diseases: From ethnobotany to clinical trials

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Skin diseases are among the most common human health affections. A healthy skin promotes a healthy body that can be achieved through modern, allopathic and natural medicines. Therefore, medicinal plants can be a reliable therapy in treating skin diseases in humans through a diverse range of bioactive molecules they contain.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This review aims to provide for the first-time scientific evidence related to the dermatological properties of Morocco's medicinal plants and it aims to provide a baseline for the discovery of new drugs having activities against skin issues.

METHODS

This review involved an investigation with different search engines for Moroccan ethnobotanical surveys published between 1991 and 2021. The plants used to treat skin diseases have been determined. Information regarding pharmacological effects, phytochemical, and clinical trials related to the plants listed in this review was collected from different scientific databases like PubMed, Science Direct, Google Scholar, Web of Science and Scopus. The data were analyzed and summarized in the review.

RESULTS

A total of 401 plants belonging to 86 families mainly represented by Asteraceae, Lamiaceae, Fabaceae, and Apiaceae which have been documented to be in common use by Moroccans for managing skin diseases. Among those plants recorded, the most commonly used are Allium cepa L, Chamaeleon gummifer (L.) Cass and Salvia rosmarinus Schleid. Mill. Leaves were the most commonly used plant part, while powder and decoction were the most common method of traditional drug preparation. 107 of the 401 plants (27%) have undergone pharmacological validation. A total of 44 compounds isolated from 27 plants were investigated to treat different types of skin diseases, and 25 plants have been clinically studied for their activities against skin diseases.

CONCLUSION

The beneficial effects of using Moroccan medicinal plants to treat skin diseases, according to traditional practices, have been proven in numerous scientific studies. Therefore, other studies should focus on isolating and identifying specific bioactive compounds from plant extracts, revealing more valuable therapeutic properties. Furthermore, additional reliable clinical trials are needed to confirm their beneficial effect on patients with skin diseases.

HPLC–NMR-Based Chemical Profiling of Matricaria pubescens (Desf.) Schultz and Matricaria recutita and Their Protective Effects on UVA-Exposed Fibroblasts

The present study aimed to investigate the chemical profile and the protective activity on fibroblasts of two Matricaria species: M. pubescens, which grows wild in Algeria, and M. recutita, which is cultivated in Greece. A comparative phytochemical investigation using High-Performance Liquid Chromatography, coupled with Photodiode Array Detection and Mass Spectrometry (HPLC–PDA–MS) combined with Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), was performed for the identification of the main constituents in the flowerheads of these medicinal plants. In M. pubescens more than 25 compounds were identified and/or isolated; among them are quercetagenin-3-O-glucopyranoside, reported for the first time in Matricaria sp., and two polyamines previously reported in other Asteraceae species. In M. recutita, which is the officially recognized species in Europe, 19 constituents were identified. To minimize time analysis, the structure elucidation was based on a multi-analytical approach directly on subfractions. Two representative polar extracts from each species were characterized chemically and further screened for their protective effects on 3T3 fibroblasts. The cells were exposed to a mild toxic dose of UVA light (6 J/cm2), in the presence of different concentrations of the extracts. Both M. recutita and M. pubescens extracts were effective. The methanolic extract was the best protective agent at lower concentrations (0.1 to 10 μg/mL), and hydromethanolic was best at higher ones (100–200 μg/mL). M. recutita exhibited the most enhanced cell viability in relation to those not exposed to UV control; it ranged from of 28 to 49% higher viability, depending on the dose, leading to the conclusion that the latter seems to exhibit potent cytoprotective activity and significant regeneration activity.

Keratinocyte and Fibroblast Wound Healing In Vitro Is Repressed by Non-Optimal Conditions but the Reparative Potential Can Be Improved by Water-Filtered Infrared A

It is a general goal to improve wound healing, especially of chronic wounds. As light therapy has gained increasing attention, the positive influence on healing progression of water-filtered infrared A (wIRA), a special form of thermal radiation, has been investigated and compared to the detrimental effects of UV-B irradiation on wound closure in vitro. Models of keratinocyte and fibroblast scratches help to elucidate effects on epithelial and dermal healing. This study further used the simulation of non-optimal settings such as S. aureus infection, chronic inflammation, and anti-inflammatory conditions to determine how these affect scratch wound progression and whether wIRA treatment can improve healing. Gene expression analysis for cytokines (IL1A, IL6, CXCL8), growth (TGFB1, PDGFC) and transcription factors (NFKB1, TP53), heat shock proteins (HSP90AA1, HSPA1A, HSPD1), keratinocyte desmogleins (DSG1, DSG3), and fibroblast collagen (COL1A1, COL3A1) was performed. Keratinocyte and fibroblast wound healing under non-optimal conditions was found to be distinctly reduced in vitro. wIRA treatment could counteract the inflammatory response in infected keratinocytes as well as under chronic inflammatory conditions by decreasing pro-inflammatory cytokine gene expression and improve wound healing. In contrast, in the anti-inflammatory setting, wIRA radiation could re-initiate the acute inflammatory response necessary after injury to stimulate the regenerative processes and advance scratch closure.

Photoprotective Effects of a Hyperoside-Enriched Fraction Prepared from Houttuynia cordata Thunb. on Ultraviolet B-Induced Skin Aging in Human Fibroblasts through the MAPK Signaling Pathway

Ultraviolet-B (UVB) irradiation causes skin damage via deleterious effects including oxidative stress, inflammation, and collagen degradation. The photoprotective effects of a hyperoside-enriched fraction obtained from Houttuynia cordata Thunb. (H. cordata) on the attenuation of UVB-induced skin aging in human fibroblasts were investigated. The solvent-partition technique was used to establish the hyperoside-enriched fraction of H. cordata (HcEA). The active compounds identified in the H. cordata extracts were hyperoside, quercitrin, chlorogenic acid, and rutin. With regard to the photoprotective effects of H. cordata on UVB-irradiated dermal fibroblasts, HcEA and hyperoside inhibited intracellular ROS production and inflammatory cytokine secretions (IL-6 and IL-8), while increasing collagen type I synthesis along with downregulating MMP-1 gene and protein expressions. Mechanistically, the hyperoside-enriched fraction obtained from H. cordata inhibited UVB-irradiated skin aging through regulation of the MAPK signaling pathway by attenuating the activation of JNK/ERK/c-Jun in human dermal fibroblasts. The hyperoside-enriched fraction of H. cordata exerted potent anti-skin aging properties against UVB exposure. The findings of this study can be applied in the cosmetics industry, as H. cordata extract can potentially be used in pharmaceutical or cosmetic formulations as a photoprotective or anti-skin aging agent.

Black Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) Polyphenolic Extract Exerts Antioxidant and Antiaging Potential

Phenolic compounds present in common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) have been reported to possess antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and ultraviolet radiation (UVR) protective properties. UVR from sunlight, which consists of UV-B and UV-A radiations, induces reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radical formation, consequently activating proteinases and enzymes such as elastase and tyrosinase, leading to premature skin aging. The objective of this work was to extract, characterize and evaluate the antioxidant and antiaging potential of polyphenols from a black bean endemic variety. The polyphenolic extract was obtained from black beans by supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) using CO₂ with a mixture of water–ethanol as a cosolvent and conventional leaching with a mixture of water–ethanol as solvent. The polyphenolic extracts were purified and characterized, and antioxidant potential, tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory potentials were measured. The extract obtained using the SFE method using CO₂ and H₂O–Ethanol (50:50 v/v) as a cosolvent showed the highest total phenolic compounds yield, with 66.60 ± 7.41 mg GAE/g coat (p > 0.05) and 7.30 ± 0.64 mg C3GE/g coat (p < 0.05) of anthocyanins compared to conventional leaching. Nineteen tentative phenolic compounds were identified in leaching crude extract using ESI-QTOF. Quercetin-3-D-galactoside was identified in crude and purified extracts. The purified SFC extract showed IC₅₀ 0.05 ± 0.002 and IC₅₀ 0.21 ± 0.008 mg/mL for DPPH and ABTS, respectively. The lowest IC₅₀ value of tyrosinase inhibition was 0.143 ± 0.02 mg/mL and 0.005 ± 0.003 mg/mL of elastase inhibition for leaching purified extract. Phenolic compounds presented theoretical free energy values ranging from −5.3 to −7.8 kcal/mol for tyrosinase and −2.5 to −6.8 kcal/mol for elastase in molecular docking (in silico) studies. The results suggest that the purified extracts obtained by SFE or conventional leaching extraction could act as antioxidant and antiaging ingredients for cosmeceutical applications.

Natural components in sunscreens: Topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF)

Artificial sunscreens are already gaining traction in order to protect the skin from sunburns, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. However, the efficacy and safety of most artificial sunscreen constituents are hindered by their photostability, toxicity and damage to marine ecosystems. Natural selection and evolution have ensured that plants and animals have developed effective protective mechanisms against the deleterious side effects of oxidative stress and ultraviolet radiation (UV). Hence, natural antioxidants such as sun blockers are drawing considerable attention. The exact mechanism by which natural components act as sunscreen molecules has not been clearly established. However, conjugated π system is reported to play an important role in protecting the vital genetic material within the organism. Compared to artificial sunscreens, natural sunscreens with strong UV absorptive capacities are largely limited by low specific extinction value and by their inability to spread in large-scale sunscreen cosmetic applications. Previous studies have documented that natural components exert their photoprotective effects (such as improved skin elasticity and hydration, skin texture, and wrinkles) through their antioxidant effects, and through the regulation of UV-induced skin inflammation, barrier impairment and aging. This review focuses on natural antioxidant topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF). Lignin, melanin, silymarin and other ingredients have been added to high sun protection nature sunscreens without any physical or chemical UV filters. This paper also provides a reference for adopting novel technical measures (extracting high content components, changing the type of solution, optimizing formulation, applying Nano technology, et al) to design and prepare nature sunscreen formulations equated with commercial sunscreen formulations. Another strategy is to add natural antioxidants from plants, animals, microorganisms and marine organisms as special enhancer or modifier ingredients to reinforce SPF values. Although the photoprotective effects of natural components have been established, their deleterious side effects have not been elucidated.

Inhibitory insights of strawberry (Fragaria × ananassa var. Seolhyang) root extract on tyrosinase activity using computational and in vitro analysis

The strawberry (Fragaria × ananassa var. seolhyang) is commonly used as fruit but medicinal importance for the non-edible roots which contained a pool of bioactive compounds are not yet studied against tyrosinase inhibition. This study demonstrates the potential of bioactive compounds in root and rhizome of strawberry against tyrosinase inhibition using in silico and in vitro approaches. ADMET profiling and molecular docking analysis show druglikeness for the major bioactive compounds in strawberry root extract (SRE), i.e. procyanidin, procyanidin trimer, kaempferol 3-O-(4-O-p-coumaroyl)-glucoside, neochlorogenic acid, procyanidin tetramer, and quercetin-3-O-pentoside, and docking score between -7.8 to -6.3 kcal/mol with tyrosinase, respectively. Also, these docked complexes exhibit substantial stability contributed by strong hydrogen bonding, hydrophobic interactions, and polar interactions in 100 ns molecular dynamics simulation; further supported by essential dynamics and dynamic cross-correlation matrix analysis. Also, in vitro functional assays support in silico predicted results in terms of substantial cytoprotective and cellular antioxidant potential in Raw 264.7 macrophages challenged by H₂O₂ as well as non-significant toxicity in zebrafish. SRE exhibits the lowest (5.8%) and highest (42.8%) inhibition of tyrosinase at 100 and 500 μg/ml concentrations, respectively. These results advocated functional properties and tyrosinase inhibition potential of SRE; and hence, SRE can be used in medicinal or cosmetic applications.

Food-derived bioactive compounds with anti-aging potential for nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical products

Besides providing essential nutrients for humans, food contains bioactive compounds that exert diverse biological activities such as anti-microbial, anti-cancerogenic, anti-viral, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. The cosmetic industry is interested in natural bioactive compounds for their use in nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical products. These products aimed to reduce skin aging, inflammation or provide photoprotection against UV radiation. As a result, nutricosmetics and cosmeceuticals are becoming innovative self-care products in the beauty market. These products contain phytochemicals as active compounds obtained from fruits, vegetables, legumes, medicinal herbs and plants with anti-aging potential. This review summarizes the information within the last 5 years related to bioactive compounds present in fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices commonly used for human consumption. Their antioxidant and biological potential for modulating molecular markers involved in the aging process, as well as their mechanism of action. Diverse natural foods and their byproducts could be used as a source of bioactive compounds for developing cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic products.

Rosa multiflora Thunb Flower Extract Attenuates Ultraviolet-Induced Photoaging in Skin Cells and Hairless Mice

Ethanol extract (RET) of Rosa multiflora Thunb flowers and its subfractions in ethylacetate (REA) or n-butanol subfractions (RBT) were reported to have potent antioxidative and anti-inflammatory activities. In this study, we investigated if those Rosa multiflora flower (RMF) extracts prevent ultraviolet (UV)-induced biochemical damages leading to photoaging. In keratinocyte or dermal fibroblasts, RET, REA, and RBT treatments with UV irradiation significantly decreased reactive oxygen species (ROS), interleukin (IL)-6, IL-8, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 levels through suppression of nuclear factor kappa B and mitogen-activated protein kinases. In the animal experiment, mice were orally supplemented with RET (RET group) or REA and RBT mixture (RM group) for 10 weeks, concomitantly with UV exposure. Tumor necrosis factor alpha production and MMP-13 expression were reduced in the mouse skin of RET and RM groups compared with those in the UV control (UVC) group. UV-induced IL-6 production and epidermal thickening were reduced in RM group compared with those in UVC group. Eight phenolic compounds, including quercitrin (quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside), were identified in RMF extracts. Quercitrin treatment to dermal fibroblasts significantly attenuated an increase of MMP-1 expression and a decrease of type I procollagen expression caused by UV. Collectively, RMF extracts showed protective effects from UV-induced photoaging in the skin through suppression of ROS generation, proinflammatory cytokine production, and MMP expression. Quercitrin is suggested to be one of the effective compounds.

Genome-Protecting Compounds as Potential Geroprotectors

Throughout life, organisms are exposed to various exogenous and endogenous factors that cause DNA damages and somatic mutations provoking genomic instability. At a young age, compensatory mechanisms of genome protection are activated to prevent phenotypic and functional changes. However, the increasing stress and age-related deterioration in the functioning of these mechanisms result in damage accumulation, overcoming the functional threshold. This leads to aging and the development of age-related diseases. There are several ways to counteract these changes: 1) prevention of DNA damage through stimulation of antioxidant and detoxification systems, as well as transition metal chelation; 2) regulation of DNA methylation, chromatin structure, non-coding RNA activity and prevention of nuclear architecture alterations; 3) improving DNA damage response and repair; 4) selective removal of damaged non-functional and senescent cells. In the article, we have reviewed data about the effects of various trace elements, vitamins, polyphenols, terpenes, and other phytochemicals, as well as a number of synthetic pharmacological substances in these ways. Most of the compounds demonstrate the geroprotective potential and increase the lifespan in model organisms. However, their genome-protecting effects are non-selective and often are conditioned by hormesis. Consequently, the development of selective drugs targeting genome protection is an advanced direction.

Recent advances in extracting phenolic compounds from food and their use in disease prevention and as cosmetics

Phenolic compounds in plants are essential components of human nutrition, which provide various health benefits. However, some missing links became the research in phenolic compounds structures and potential applications in a challenging work. Despite universal extraction methods with mixtures of different organic solvents are generally adopted in the analysis of phenolic compounds, a need for establish a specific procedure is still open. The great heterogeneity in food and food by-products matrices and the lack of standardized methods which combine chromatographic with spectrophotometric techniques to calculate the amount of phenolic compounds joined with the absence of specific standards hamper to accurate know the real amount of phenolic compounds. Indeed, the high complexity in nature and chemistry of phenolic compounds clearly difficult to establish a daily intake to obtain certain healthy outcomes. Hence, despite the potential of phenolic compounds to use them in cosmetic and healthy applications have been widely analyzed, some concerns must be considered. The chemical complexity, the interactions between phenolic compounds and other food components and the structural changes induced by food processing joined with the lack in the understanding of phenolic compounds metabolism and bioavailability undergo the need to conduct a comprehensive review of each factors influencing the final activity of phenolic compounds. This paper summarizes the potential of phenolic compounds for disease prevention and cosmetics production, as well as their many other uses derived from their antioxidant activity. This paper illustrates the potential of phenolic compounds for disease prevention and cosmetics production, as well as their many other uses derived from their antioxidant activity.

Effect of Rhizopus nigricans (Rhizopus stolonifera)-based novel starter culture on quality and safety attributes of doenjang, a traditional Korean soybean fermented food product

We aimed to develop a consortium of starter culture of effective microorganisms to prepare doenjang, a traditional Korean fermented food. Different ratios of Bacillus subtilis TKSP 24 (B), Aspergillus oryzae complex (A), Rhizopus nigricans (also named as Rhizopus stolonifera) (R), and Mucor racemosus 15 (M15) were selected as meju starter cultures to produce doenjang with improved quality. Microbial strain combinations (B: A: R and B: M15: R) were mixed separately at three different ratios [1:1:1 (w/w), 1:0.5:1.5 (w/w), and 1:1.5:0.5 (w/w)] to prepare BAR-1, BAR-2, BAR-3, BM15R-1, BM15R-2, and BM15R-3 doenjang samples. Quantitative analyses included free amino acids, free sugar, volatile and non-volatile organic acids, cellular antioxidant activity along with the presence of biogenic amines and aflatoxins, and microbial counts. Total free amino acids responsible for the sweet taste of doenjang were highest in BAR-2 (322.50 mg/100 g) and BM15R-3 (320.07 mg/100 g). Total volatile organic acid was highest in BAR-1 compared to other preparations. All doenjang samples had biogenic amines, especially histamine, below the toxicity level (500 mg/kg). Also, the aflatoxin and hazardous microbial count in the tested doenjang samples were below the level of toxicity. The findings suggest that use of multiple microbial strains in combination with R. nigricans as a starter culture could be a novel and effective approach to improve the nutrition and safety of fermented soybean food products of doenjang.

Hypericum olympicum L. recovers DNA damage and prevents MMP-9 activation induced by UVB in human dermal fibroblasts

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Hypericum olympicum L. (Hypericaceae) flowering aerial parts has been utilized in Turkish folk medicine as a remedy against inflamed skin problems.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This study was designed to state the effect of H. olympicum on dermatological problems. For this purpose effect of the plant extract on the DNA strand break and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-9 activity of human dermal fibroblast (HDFs) cells irradiated with UVB as well as antioxidant activity potential were studied.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The methanolic extract of Hypericum olympicum (HOM) was prepared by maceration at room temperature. DNA damage and increased MMP-9 activity in HDFs were induced by UVB irradiation. The cell viability was measured by water-soluble tetrazolium salt (WST)-1 assay. The effects on DNA strand break was investigated by single gel electrophoresis (commonly known as Comet assay), while MMP-9 activity was observed by gelatin zymography assay. In vitro antioxidant tests were performed to indicate the effect on reactive oxygen species (ROS). The major metabolites were identified and their concentrations were measured by high performance thin layer chromatography (HPTLC).

RESULTS

HOM was found to recover DNA damage dose-dependently. The enzymatic activity of MMP-9 was inhibited almost 100% by the treatment of 1.5 mg/mL of the extract. It also enhanced cell proliferation in those cells, and also it was shown to possess antioxidant activity. The major metabolites of HOM were identified as chlorogenic acid and quercetin glycosides (rutin, hyperoside, isoquercitrin).

CONCLUSION

Experimental studies have proven the traditional use of Hypericum olympicum in inflamed skin problems acting by inhibition of the inflammatory pathway and recovery of DNA damage induced experimentally.

7‑MEGA™ 500 regulates the expression of COX‑2, MMP‑3 and type 1 procollagen in UVB‑irradiated human keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts

AlaskOmega® Omega 7 500, also known as Omega‑7 fatty acid or 7‑MEGA™, is a highly concentrated palmitoleic acid (C16:1). Little is known about how 7‑MEGA regulates skin inflammation and wrinkle formation in cultured skin cells. The present study aimed to investigate the effects of 7‑MEGA on the expression of cyclooxygenase‑2 (COX‑2), matrix metallopeptidase (MMP)‑1/3 and type 1 procollagen, which are markers of skin inflammation and wrinkle formation, in ultraviolet B (UVB)‑irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and keratinocytes (HaCaT). No toxicity was observed upon treatment of HDFs and HaCaT cells with 0.5‑2.5 µl/ml 7‑MEGA. The exposure of HaCaT cells to 10 mJ/cm2 UVB for 6 h resulted in increased protein and/or mRNA expression of COX‑2 and MMP‑3. Treatment of HaCaT cells with 2.5 µl/ml 7‑MEGA suppressed the UVB‑induced expression of COX‑2 and MMP‑3 in these cells. In addition, treatment with 2.5 µl/ml 7‑MEGA attenuated the UVB‑induced expression and phosphorylation levels of c‑Fos and c‑Jun, two components of the activator protein‑1 (AP‑1) transcription factor, in HaCaT cells. Exposure of HDFs to 60 mJ/cm2 UVB for 6 h significantly decreased the expression of type 1 procollagen protein, whereas treatment with 2.5 µl/ml 7‑MEGA partially reversed the effects of UVB on the expression of type 1 procollagen protein. These results demonstrated for the first time that 7‑MEGA regulated the expression of COX‑2, MMP‑3 and type 1 procollagen in UVB‑irradiated skin cells. The present study suggested that 7‑MEGA may serve as a novel agent against UVB‑induced skin inflammation and damage.

Kaempferol derivatives isolated from Lens culinaris Medik. reduce DNA damage induced by etoposide in peripheral blood mononuclear cells

Bioactive compounds isolated from plants are considered to be attractive candidates for cancer therapy. In this study, we examined the effect of kaempferol, its derivatives, the polyphenol fraction (PF) and an extract (EX) isolated from the aerial parts of Lens culinaris Medik. on DNA damage induced by etoposide in human cells. We also studied the effect of these compounds and their combinations on cell viability. The studies were conducted on HL-60 cells and human peripheral blood mononuclear cells (PBMCs). We used the comet assay in the alkaline version to evaluate DNA damage. To examine cell viability we applied the trypan blue exclusion assay. We demonstrated that kaempferol glycoside derivatives isolated from the aerial parts of Lens culinaris Medik. reduce DNA damage induced by etoposide in PBMCs, but do not have an impact on DNA damage in HL-60 cells. We also showed that kaempferol induces DNA damage in HL-60 cells and leads to an increase of DNA damage provoked by etoposide. Our data suggest that kaempferol derivatives can be further explored as a potential agent protecting normal cells against DNA damage induced by etoposide. Moreover, kaempferol's ability to induce DNA damage in cancer cells and to increase DNA damage caused by etoposide may be useful in designing and improving anticancer therapies.

Coffee Silverskin: A Review on Potential Cosmetic Applications

Coffee silverskin, the major coffee-roasting by-product, is currently used as fuel and for soil fertilization. However, there are several studies reporting silverskin as a good source of bioactive compounds that can be extracted and further used by cosmetic industry. Its high antioxidant potential may be due to the synergistic interaction of chlorogenic acids (1–6%), caffeine (0.8–1.25%), and melanoidins (17–23%), among other antioxidant compounds. The bioactive compounds of silverskin can answer to the new fields of cosmetic industry on natural active ingredient resources that improve health skin appearance, counteract skin aging and related diseases, in an environmentally friendly approach. Skin aging is a complex process associated with oxidative metabolism and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. ROS production increase matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), as well as pro-inflammatory mediators, resulting in consequent skin damage and aging. To counteract this process, cosmetic industry is looking for compounds able to increase MMP inhibitory activities, hyaluronidase inhibitory activity, expression of collagen and elastase inhibitory activity, as potential bioactive ingredients with anti-aging purposes. This review focuses on skin aging factors and the potential anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-cellulite and anti-hair loss activity, as well as protection against UV damage, of coffee silverskin and their bioactive compounds.

Anti-photoaging effects of chitosan oligosaccharide in ultraviolet-irradiated hairless mouse skin

Skin photoaging (SP) is a premature skin-aging damage after repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, mainly characterized by oxidative stress and inflammatory disequilibrium, which makes skin show the typical symptoms of photoaging such as coarse wrinkling, dryness, irregular pigmentation and laxity. Chitosan oligosaccharide (COS), a natural polysaccharide with good humectant property, is the depolymerized product of chitosan with various biological activities, among which the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects have been frequently reported in recent years. However, no existing invivo study indicates whether COS has direct protective effect on UV-induced SP. In the current research, we investigated the potential preventive effect of COS against UV-caused damage in hairless mouse dorsal skin. The data showed that COS, by topical application after each UV-radiation for 10weeks, effectively inhibited the undesirable changes on the skin induced by UV. To be specific, COS obviously alleviated the macroscopic and histopathological damages of mice skin, via mitigating the disrupted collagenous fibers, as well as improving the relative content of type I collagen and the amount of total collagen. Furthermore, COS effectively inhibited the levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6, and markedly improved the activities of antioxidant enzymes (SOD, GSH-Px, CAT), as well as the content of skin hydroxyproline and moisture. These findings demonstrated that this natural polysaccharide attenuated UV-induced SP, at least in part, by virtue of favorable regulation of antioxidant and anti-inflammatory status, which presumably worked in concert to maintain the morphology and level of dermal collagen.