Photoprotection assessment of olive (Olea europaea L.) leaves extract standardized to oleuropein: In vitro and in silico approach for improved sunscreens

Unlocking the potential of olive residues for functional purposes: update on human intervention trials with health and cosmetic products

Olive mill waste (OMW) is a promising source of valuable compounds such as polyphenols, terpenes, sterols, and other bioactive compounds, which are of interest to the pharmaceuticals and cosmeceutical industries. This review examines the potential of OMW extracts for health and beauty applications based on evidence reports from human clinical trials. The results achieved to date indicate health-enhancing properties, but little is known about the underlying mechanisms of action, dose-response relationships, and long-term impacts. Therefore, while olive by-products, extracted using eco-friendly methods, present opportunities for the development of high-value health and cosmetic products, further studies are necessary to determine the full range of their effects and establish specific therapeutic strategies. © 2024 The Authors. Journal of The Science of Food and Agriculture published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Chemical Industry.

Nutritional Supplements for Skin Health-A Review of What Should Be Chosen and Why

Supplementation of micronutrients is considered to be crucial in the reinforcement of the skin's barrier. In this paper, 14 nutritional compounds commonly used in food or pharmaceutic industries were analyzed in terms of influencing skin conditions. The major objective of this paper was to provide a narrative review of the available literature regarding several chosen compounds that are currently widely recommended as supplements that aim to maintain proper and healthy skin conditions. We conducted a review of the literature from PubMed, Scopus, and Web of Science until September 2023 without any other restrictions regarding the year of the publication. Ultimately, we reviewed 238 articles, including them in this review. Each of the reviewed compounds, including vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin D, vitamin E, curcumin, chlorella, Omega-3, biotin,Ppolypodium leucotomos, Simmondsia chinesis, gamma oryzanol, olive leaf extract, spirulina, and astaxanthin, was observed to present some possible effects with promising benefits for a skin condition, i.e., photoprotective radiation. Adding them to the diet or daily routine might have a positive influence on some skin inflammatory diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis. Further, UV radiation protection facilitated by some supplements and their impact on human cells might be helpful during chemotherapy or in preventing melanoma development. Further research is needed because of the lack of clear consensus regarding the doses of the described compounds that could provide desirable effects on the skin.

Use of in silico and in vitro methods as a potential new approach methodologies (NAMs) for (photo)mutagenicity and phototoxicity risk assessment of agrochemicals

The increased use of agrochemicals raises concerns about environmental, animal, and mainly human toxicology. The development of New Approach Methodologies (NAMs) for toxicological risk assessment including new in vitro tests and in silico protocols is encouraged. Although agrochemical mutagenicity testing is well established, a complementary alternative approach may contribute to increasing reliability, with the consequent reduction of false-positive results that lead to unnecessary use of animals in follow-up in vivo testing. Additionally, it is unreasonable to underestimate the phototoxic effects of an accidental dermal exposure to agrochemicals during agricultural work or domestic application in the absence of adequate personal protection equipment, especially in terms of photomutagenicity. In this scenario, we addressed the integration of in vitro and in silico techniques as NAMs to assess the mutagenic and phototoxic potential of agrochemicals. In the present study we used the yno1 S. cerevisiae strain as a biomodel for in vitro assessment of agrochemical mutagenicity, both in the absence and in the presence of simulated sunlight. In parallel, in silico predictions were performed using a combination of expert rule-based and statistical-based models to assess gene mutations and phototoxicity. None of the tested agrochemicals showed mutagenic potential in the two proposed approaches. The Gly and 2,4D herbicides were photomutagenic in the in vitro yeast test despite the negative in silico prediction of phototoxicity. Herein, we demonstrated a novel experimental approach combining both in silico and in vitro experiments to address the complementary investigation of the phototoxicity and (photo)mutagenicity of agrochemicals. These findings shed light on the importance of investigating and reconsidering the photosafety assessment of these products, using not only photocytotoxicity assays but also photomutagenicity assays, which should be encouraged.

Oleuropein in olive leaf, branch, and stem extracts: stability and biological activity in human cervical carcinoma and melanoma cells

Olive leaves as a main byproduct of olive oil and fruit industry are a valuable source of phytochemicals such as polyphenols, with multiple biomedical effects. Apart from leaves, olive branches and stems make up a significant amount of olive waste. It is well known that the drying process and long-term storage affect the stability and concentration of polyphenols present in raw materials. For that matter, two different means of storing olive waste, at room temperature and +4 °C, were compared by determining the content of the polyphenol oleuropein (OLE) in olive leaf, branch, and stem extracts (LE, BE, and SE) by HPLC-DAD method. Total phenols (TPC), o-diphenols (o-DPC), and total flavonoids (TFC) content in extracts were assessed by UV-Vis measurements. LE prepared from leaves stored at +4 °C had the highest OLE content, 30.7 mg g-1 of dry extract (DE). SE from stems stored at +4 °C was the richest in TPC and TFC (193 mg GAE/g DE and 82.9 mg CE/g DE, respectively), due to the higher purity of the extract. The biological activity of extracts was determined on cervical cancer (HeLa), melanoma (A375), metastatic melanoma (A375M) tumor cell lines, and on spontaneously immortalized cell line of keratinocytes (HaCaT), using the MTT assay. The data show that all extracts had a similar dose-dependent effect on cell viability in HeLa cells, while the effect of LE on melanoma A375 and A375M, and HaCaT cells was cell-line dependent.

Influence of Five Drying Methods on Active Compound Contents and Bioactivities of Fresh Flowers from Syringa pubescens Turcz

The flower of Syringa pubescens Turcz. is used in Chinese folk medicine and also as a flower tea for healthcare. The effects of five drying methods on the active compound contents, the antioxidant abilities, anti-inflammatory properties and enzyme inhibitory activities were evaluated. The plant materials were treated using shade-drying, microwave-drying, sun-drying, infrared-drying and oven-drying. The seven active compounds were simultaneously determined using an HPLC method. Furthermore, the chemical profile was assessed using scanning electron microscopy, ultraviolet spectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy. The antioxidant capacities and protective effects on L02 cells induced with hydrogen peroxide were measured. The anti-inflammatory effects on lipopolysaccharide-induced RAW264.7 cells were investigated. The enzyme inhibitory activities were determined against α-amylase, α-glucosidase cholinesterases and tyrosinase. The results indicated that drying methods had significant influences on the active compound contents and biological properties. Compared with other samples, the OD samples possessed low IC50 values with 0.118 ± 0.004 mg/mL for DPPH radical, 1.538 ± 0.0972 for hydroxyl radical and 0.886 ± 0.199 mg/mL for superoxide radical, while the SHD samples had stronger reducing power compared with other samples. The SHD samples could be effective against H2O2-induced injury on L02 cells by the promoting of T-AOC, GSH-PX, SOD and CAT activities and the reducing of MDA content compared with other samples. Furthermore, SPF samples, especially the SHD sample, could evidently ameliorate inflammation through the inhibition of IL-6, IL-1β and TNF-α expression. All the studied SPF samples exhibited evidently inhibitory effects on the four enzymes. The IC50 values of inhibitory activity on α-glucosidase and α-amylase from SHD sample were 2.516 ± 0.024 and 0.734 ± 0.034 mg/mL, respectively. SD samples had potential inhibitory effects on cholinesterases and tyrosinase with IC50 values of 3.443 ± 0.060 and 1.732 ± 0.058 mg/mL. In consideration of active compound contents and biological activities, it was recommended that SHD and SD be applied for drying SPF at an industrial scale.

Identification of anti-photoaging components of Olea europaea leaves based on spectrum-effect relationship

In this study, to identify bioactive components of Olea europaea leaves extract (OLE), chemometrics analyses including bivariate correlation analysis and partial least squares regression were used to establish the relationships between the chromatograms and anti-photoaging effect of OLE samples. Firstly, the fingerprint of olive leaves extract was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Photoaging models of HaCaT cells were established by UVB irradiation. The photoaging resistance of OLE was evaluated by cell viability using the MTT assay. Chemometrics analyses showed that compounds 14, 19, 20, 24, 26, and 28 might be the major anti-photoaging components of OLE. Furthermore, after separation by HSCCC and NMR identification, compound 19 is luteoloside and compound 24 is oleuropein. Oleuropein and luteoloside were docked with collagenase (MMP-1), stromelysin (MMP-3), and gelatinase (MMP-9), respectively. The results showed that oleuropein and luteoloside inhibited their activity by directly interacting with MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9, thereby exhibiting anti-photoaging activity. The current bioassay and spectrum-effect relationships are proper for associating sample quality with the active ingredient, and our finding would provide foundation and further understanding of the quality evaluation and quality control of Olea europaea.

Oleuropein-Rich Gellan Gum/Alginate Films as Innovative Treatments against Photo-Induced Skin Aging

Olea europaea L. leaf extracts (OLEs) represent highly value-added agro-industrial byproducts, being promising sources of significant antioxidant compounds, such as their main component, oleuropein. In this work, hydrogel films based on low-acyl gellan gum (GG) blended with sodium alginate (NaALG) were loaded with OLE and crosslinked with tartaric acid (TA). The films' ability to act as an antioxidant and photoprotectant against UVA-induced photoaging, thanks to their capability to convey oleuropein to the skin, were examined with the aim of a potential application as facial masks. Biological in vitro performances of the proposed materials were tested on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NhDFs), both under normal conditions and after aging-induced UVA treatment. Overall, our results clearly show the intriguing properties of the proposed hydrogels as effective and fully naturally formulated anti-photoaging smart materials for potential use as facial masks.

Revealing the relationship between molecular weight of lignin and its color, UV-protecting property

Lignin has great potential as a natural, green, and sustainable broad-spectrum sunscreen active ingredient. However, the coexistence of dark color and sunscreen properties hinders its application in cosmetics. In this study, we focus on the effects of the molecular weight of lignin on tis UV-protecting property and color in order to prepare lignin-based sunscreen with high performance. A prepared sunscreen containing low molecular weight lignin (F5, <1000 g/mol) exhibits good UV-protecting property (sun protection factor (SPF) = 7.14) and light color advantages (ΔE = 46.2). Moreover, a strong synergistic effect on UV-protecting property exists between low molecular weight lignin and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), resulting in high SPF of F5@EHMC-based sunscreen (55.56). Additionally, added TiO2 can efficiently mitigate the dark color of lignin-based sunscreens due to prominent covering power of TiO2. Moreover, lignin-based sunscreens have good biocompatibility with HaCaT cells. This work is useful for understanding the mechanism of the UV-protecting property and dark color of lignin, and for designing an efficient and safe lignin-based sunscreen.

Extraction Systems and Analytical Techniques for Food Phenolic Compounds: A Review

Phenolic compounds are highly valuable food components due to their potential utilisation as natural bioactive and antioxidant molecules for the food, cosmetic, chemical, and pharmaceutical industries. For this purpose, the development and optimisation of efficient extraction methods is crucial to obtain phenolic-rich extracts and, for some applications, free of interfering compounds. It should be accompanied with robust analytical tools that enable the standardisation of phenolic-rich extracts for industrial applications. New methodologies based on both novel extraction and/or analysis are also implemented to characterise and elucidate novel chemical structures and to face safety, pharmacology, and toxicity issues related to phenolic compounds at the molecular level. Moreover, in combination with multivariate analysis, the extraction and analysis of phenolic compounds offer tools for plant chemotyping, food traceability and marker selection in omics studies. Therefore, this study reviews extraction techniques applied to recover phenolic compounds from foods and agri-food by-products, including liquid-liquid extraction, solid-liquid extraction assisted by intensification technologies, solid-phase extraction, and combined methods. It also provides an overview of the characterisation techniques, including UV-Vis, infra-red, nuclear magnetic resonance, mass spectrometry and others used in minor applications such as Raman spectroscopy and ion mobility spectrometry, coupled or not to chromatography. Overall, a wide range of methodologies are now available, which can be applied individually and combined to provide complementary results in the roadmap around the study of phenolic compounds.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

The Modulatory Influence of Plant-Derived Compounds on Human Keratinocyte Function

The plant kingdom is a rich source of secondary metabolites with numerous properties, including the potential to modify keratinocyte biology. Keratinocytes are important epithelial cells that play a protective role against various chemical, physical and biological stimuli, and participate in reactive oxygen scavenging and inflammation and wound healing processes. The epidermal cell response may be modulated by phytochemicals via changes in signal transduction pathways. Plant extracts and single secondary compounds can possess a high antioxidant capacity and may suppress reactive oxygen species release, inhibit pro-apoptotic proteins and apoptosis and activate antioxidant enzymes in keratinocytes. Moreover, selected plant extracts and single compounds also exhibit anti-inflammatory properties and exposure may result in limited production of adhesion molecules, pro-inflammatory cytokines and chemokines in keratinocytes. In addition, plant extracts and single compounds may promote keratinocyte motility and proliferation via the regulation of growth factor production and enhance wound healing. While such plant compounds may modulate keratinocyte functions, further in vitro and in vivo studies are needed on their mechanisms of action, and more specific toxicity and clinical studies are needed to ensure their effectiveness and safety for use on human skin.

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane: Toxicological effects on marine biota and human concerns

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) (CAS number: 5466-77-3) and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BMDM) (CAS number: 70356-09-1) are important sunscreens. However, frequent application of large amounts of these compounds may reflect serious environmental impact, once it enters the environment through indirect release via wastewater treatment or immediate release during water activities. In this article, we reviewed the toxicological effects of EHMC and BMDM on aquatic ecosystems and the human consequences. According to the literature, EHMC and BMDM have been detected in water samples and sediments worldwide. Consequently, these compounds are also present in several marine organisms like fish, invertebrates, coral reefs, marine mammals, and other species, due to its bioaccumulation potential. Studies show that these chemicals are capable of damaging the aquatic beings in different ways. Further, bioaccumulation studies have shown that EHMC biomagnifies through trophic levels, which makes human seafood consumption a concern because the higher position in the trophic chain, the more elevate levels of ultraviolet (UV) filters are detected, and it is established that EHMC present adverse effects on the human organism. In contrast, there are no studies on the BMDM bioaccumulation and biomagnification potential. Different strategies can be adopted to avoid the damage caused by sunscreens in the environment and human organism. Two of them include the use of natural photoprotectors, such as polyphenols, in association with UV filters in sunscreens and the development of new and safer UV filters. Overall, this review shows the importance of studying the impacts of sunscreens in nature and developing safer sunscreens and formulations to safeguard marine fauna, ecosystems, and humans.

Synthesis and Evaluation of Chalcone Derivatives as Novel Sunscreen Agent

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation is a serious problem for skin health thus the interest in the research to develop sunscreen agent has been increasing. Chalcone is a promising compound to be developed as its chromophore absorbs in the UV region. Therefore, in the present work, we synthesized eight chalcone derivatives through Claisen-Schmidt condensation at room temperature. The evaluation of the optical properties of each chalcone derivatives in the UV region was conducted through spectroscopic and computational studies. The synthesized chalcones were obtained in good yields and they were active in the UV region. The results revealed that more methoxy substituents to chalcone leads toward red shift. All chalcone derivatives have high molar absorptivity value (21,000-56,000) demonstrating that they have the potential to be used as the sunscreen agent. The cytotoxicity assay showed that chalcone derivatives were demonstrating low toxicity toward normal human fibroblast cell, which is remarkable. Therefore, we concluded that the synthesized chalcones in this work were potential to be developed as novel sunscreen agents in real application.

Investigations of Olive Oil Industry By-Products Extracts with Potential Skin Benefits in Topical Formulations

The by-products of olive oil industry are a major ecological issue due to their phenolic content, highly toxic organic load, and low pH. However, they can be recovered and reused, since their components have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotector properties. In this work, oil-in-water creams containing three different olive oil industry by-products extracts were produced without the use of organic solvents. First, the extracts were thoroughly characterized in vitro for cytotoxicity, inhibition of skin enzymes, and antioxidant and photoprotection capacities. Safety studies were then performed, including ocular and skin irritation tests, ecotoxicity evaluation, and in vivo Human Repeat Insult Patch Test. The results obtained in this initial characterization supported the incorporation of the extracts in the cream formulations. After preparation, the creams were characterized for their organoleptic, physicochemical, droplet size and rheological properties, and microbial contamination. The results showed that all formulations were semi-solid creams, with stable pH, compatible with the skin, without microbial contamination, and with the expected droplet size range. The rheological analysis showed shear-thinning behavior with yield stress, with the viscosity decreasing with increasing shear rate. The oscillatory results suggest that the creams have a strong network structure, being easily rubbed into the skin. Finally, compatibility, acceptability and antioxidant efficacy were evaluated in vivo, in human volunteers. No adverse reactions were observed after application of the formulations on skin and the cream with the highest concentrations of phenolic compounds showed the highest antioxidant efficiency. In conclusion, the results suggest that olive oil industry by-products extracts have valuable properties that favor their re-use in the cosmetic industry. The example presented here showed their successful incorporation into creams and their impact in these formulations' appearance, pH, and rheological performance, as well as their in vivo compatibility with skin and antioxidant efficiency.

A Novel Pro-Melanogenic Effect of Standardized Dry Olive Leaf Extract on Primary Human Melanocytes from Lightly Pigmented and Moderately Pigmented Skin

Benolea^® (EFLA^®943) is a standardized dry olive leaf extract (DOLE) considered safe for food consumption and has demonstrated superior pharmaceutical benefits such as antioxidant, anti-obesity, and anti-hypertensive activities. However, there is no study on its effects on melanogenesis yet. Disruption in the sequence of steps in melanogenesis can lead to hypopigmentary disorders which occur due to reduced production or export of pigment melanin in the skin. There is a need for safe and nontoxic therapeutics for the treatment of hypopigmentation disorders. Herein, we studied the effects of DOLE over a concentration range of 10-200 µg/mL on melanin synthesis and melanin secretion in B16F10 mouse melanoma cells and MNT-1 human melanoma cells and validated our results in primary human melanocytes (obtained from lightly pigmented (LP) and moderately pigmented (MP) cells) as well as their cocultures with keratinocytes. The capacity of melanocytes to export melanosomes was also estimated indirectly by the quantitation of melanocyte dendrite lengths and numbers. Our results show that DOLE significantly enhanced levels of extracellular melanin in the absence of effects on intracellular melanin, demonstrating that this plant extract's pro-melanogenic activity is primarily based on its capacity to augment melanin secretion and stimulate melanocyte dendricity. In summary, our preliminary results demonstrate that DOLE may hold promise as a pro-pigmenting agent for vitiligo therapy and gray hair treatment by its exclusive and novel mechanism of functioning as a dendrite elongator. Further studies to elucidate the mechanisms of action of the pro-melanogenic activity and effects of DOLE on melanosome export as well as the last steps of melanogenesis are warranted.

A New Peracetylated Oleuropein Derivative Ameliorates Joint Inflammation and Destruction in a Murine Collagen-Induced Arthritis Model via Activation of the Nrf-2/Ho-1 Antioxidant Pathway and Suppression of MAPKs and NF-κB Activation

Oleuropein (OL), an olive tree secoiridoid and its peracetylated derivate (Per-OL) have exhibited several beneficial effects on LPS-stimulated macrophages and murine experimental systemic lupus erythematosus (SLE). This study was designed to evaluate dietary Per-OL in comparison with OL supplementation effects on collagen-induced arthritis (CIA) murine model. Three-weeks-old DBA-1/J male mice were fed from weaning with a standard commercial diet or experimental enriched-diets in 0.05 % (w/w) OL, 0.05% and 0.025% Per-OL. After six weeks of pre-treatment, arthritis was induced by bovine collagen type II by tail base injection (day 0) and on day 21, mice received a booster injection. Mice were sacrificed 42 days after the first immunization. Both Per-OL and OL diets significantly prevented histological damage and arthritic score development, although no statistically significant differences were observed between both compounds. Also, serum collagen oligomeric matrix protein (COMP), metalloprotease (MMP)-3 and pro-inflammatory cytokines levels were ameliorated in paws from secoiridoids fed animals. Mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK)s and nuclear transcription factor-kappa-B (NF-κB) activations were drastically down-regulated whereas nuclear factor E2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) and heme-oxygenase-1 (HO-1) protein expressions were up-regulated in those mice fed with OL and Per-OL diets. We conclude that both Per-OL and its parent compound, OL, supplements might provide a basis for developing a new dietary strategy for the prevention of rheumatoid arthritis.

Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace (Vitis vinifera L.) Phenolics from Winemaking

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

Insights and controversies on sunscreen safety

Although sunlight provides several benefits, ultraviolet (UV) radiation plays an important role in the development of various skin damages such as erythema, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis. Despite cells having endogenous defense systems, damaged DNA may not be efficiently repaired at chronic exposure. In this sense, it is necessary to use artificial defense strategies such as sunscreen formulations. UV filters should scatter, reflect, or absorb solar UV radiation in order to prevent direct or indirect DNA lesions. However, the safety of UV filters is a matter of concern due to several controversies reported in literature, such as endocrine alterations, allergies, increased oxidative stress, phototoxic events, among others. Despite these controversies, the way in which sunscreens are tested is essential to ensure safety. Sunscreen regulation includes mandatory test for phototoxicity, but photogenotoxicity testing is not recommended as a part of the standard photosafety testing program. Although available photobiological tests are still the first approach to assess photosafety, they are limited. Some existing tests do not always provide reliable results, mainly due to limitations regarding the nature of the assessed phototoxic effect, cell UV sensitivity, and the irradiation protocols. These aspects bring queries regarding the safety of sunscreen wide use and suggest the demand for the development of robust and efficient in vitro screening tests to overcome the existing limitations. In this way, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has stood out as a promising model to fill the gaps in photobiology and to complete the mandatory tests enabling a more extensive and robust photosafety assessment.

Phytochemical profile, cytotoxic, antioxidant, and allelopathic potentials of aqueous leaf extracts of Olea europaea

Although bioactivities of Olea europaea (OE) have been widely described, most of them were related to its methanolic extracts or its essential oils, While data related to aqueous extracts still very scarce. Thus, in this study, the phytochemical composition, the antioxidant activity, the cytotoxic potential, and the allelopathic potential of aqueous leaf extracts from two varieties of Olea europaea were investigated and compared. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to identify and quantify the constituents of the tested plants, and spectrophotometric methods to evaluate antioxidant activities. The cytotoxic potential was investigated using murine oligodendrocytes (158N) while germination seeds' test was used for allelopathic activity. HPLC analysis showed the presence of 10 phenolic compounds in both extracts. Chemlali variety showed the highest antioxidant and allelopathic activities. Regarding the cytotoxicity effect, a significant increase in cell viability was observed with both of our extracts compared to untreated cells. These results confirm that aqueous extracts from OE produce a range of substances with potential antioxidant, antifungal, and allelopathic effects without toxic effects. Thus, they could be used as an alternative of chemical compounds.

Efficacy of olive leaf extract-containing cream for facial rejuvenation: A pilot study

BACKGROUND

Olive leaf extract (OLE), a naturally extracted product from olive leaves, contains oleuropein and other bioactive phenolic compounds. Oleuropein was identified to have various medical properties. It was also found to inhibit the effects of both acute and chronic UVB-induced skin damage as well as accelerate wound healing activity.

AIMS

To evaluate the efficacy of olive leaf extract-containing cream on facial rejuvenation.

METHODS

This is a prospective pilot study with a total of 36 participants, who presented with photoaging skin. All participants applied the olive leaf extract-containing cream (SUPERHEAL™ O-Live Cream, PhytoCeuticals, Inc, USA) to their whole face twice daily for 2 months. Primary outcomes measured in the study were the changes in the biophysical properties of the skin assessed with the following parameters: melanin and erythema index, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, skin pH, sebum level, texture, and wrinkles.

RESULTS

After 2 months, TEWL decreased significantly (P = .007) and maintained the results 1 month after discontinuation of the treatment (P = .007). Skin hydration also increased significantly after 2 months (P = .004). Wrinkles improved significantly on all follow-ups (P < .001, P = .001, P = .001, respectively). An image of the skin captured using Visioscan® showed improvement of the skin texture 2 months after treatment. Majority of the participants (64%) noted improvement in their skin texture.

CONCLUSION

Olive leaf extract-containing cream provided benefits on skin rejuvenation in human skin.

Can natural products improve skin photoprotection?

Abstract Due to increased UV radiation on the Earth’s surface, caused by depletion of the stratospheric ozone, people have become more susceptible to different types of skin damage, such as erythema, sunburns, and cancer; this is especially of concern in tropical countries. Thus, efforts to improve awareness as well as the use of sunscreen are increasing worldwide. However, synthetic UV filters have been associated with deleterious effects such as photosensitization. Natural products have been used by ancient cultures for several purposes, including protecting the skin from the sun. However, there is still doubt today whether photoprotection is a real phenomenom or whether it is simply tanning of the skin. Plants have self-protective mechanisms and produce secondary metabolites that can protect themselves from UV radiation. Yet, can phytochemical compounds protect human skin? This review discusses the paradoxical effect of chemical UV filters and the influence of phytochemicals in in vitro and in vivo tests of photoprotection.

Molecular modeling as a design tool for sunscreen candidates: a case study of bemotrizinol

Sunscreen-based photoprotection is an important strategy to prevent photoaging and skin cancer. Among the effective and modern sunscreens, triazine compounds are known as an important class based on their physical-chemical properties, such as photostability and UV broad-spectrum absorption (UVA and UVB). Molecular modeling and quantum mechanical calculations approaches can be helpful to orientate the design of sunscreens. Herein, a case study is presented to demonstrate the importance of the molecular modeling as a design tool for promising sunscreen candidates based on the synthesis research previously described of bemotrizinol, a broad-spectrum photostable organic UV filter present in many sunscreens products. Time-dependent density functional theory (TD-DFT) calculations performed in gas phase on the isolated organic UV filters proved to reproduce the experimental UV absorption, guiding the choice of the most efficient candidate as sunscreen. The present work highlights the importance of molecular modeling as an effective tool to support synthesis research, increasing the possibility of obtaining promising compounds with reduced costs and effluent production. Graphical abstractA case study to demonstrate the importance of the molecular modeling as a design tool for promising sunscreen candidates is presented. The method proved to be a valuable tool to reproduce the experimental UV absorption and to determinate the most efficient molecule as sunscreen among the candidates.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains as bioindicators for titanium dioxide sunscreen photoprotective and photomutagenic assessment

Although several short-term assays are available for cosmetic photosafety assessment, cell models are usually highly sensitive to UV radiation, tending to overestimate both phototoxic and photomutagenic risks. In addition, these assays are performed with UV doses/fluences that do not correspond to actual environmental conditions. In this sense, Saccharomyces cerevisiae has already proved to be an interesting tool to predict photomutagenic potential of several compounds, including sunscreens. Yeast can support environmental UVB doses compatible with human daily sunlight exposure, allowing the use of irradiation sources to faithfully mimic the external conditions of ambient sunlight. Herein, we used a set of S. cerevisiae mutant strains sensitive to UVA, UVB and Solar Simulated Light sources in order to evaluate their potential as bioindicators for sunscreen development. The bioindicator potential of the strains was tested with the widely-used titanium dioxide inorganic sunscreen. The AWP001 (yno1) and LPW002 (ogg1yno1) strains obtained in this study stood out as promising experimental tools for the validation of this assay. Overall, our results evidenced a set of S. cerevisiae strains particularly useful for evaluating both photoprotective (efficacy) and photo/antiphotomutagenic (safety) potential of UV filters, meeting the industries and regulatory agencies demand for robust and efficient in vitro screening tests.