Anti-melanogenesis effect of dehydroglyasperin C through the downregulation of MITF via the reduction of intracellular cAMP and acceleration of ERK activation in B16F1 melanoma cells

Multifunctional cosmetic potential of extracellular vesicle‑like nanoparticles derived from the stem of Cannabis sativa in treating pigmentation disorders

While natural products and synthetic chemicals are used in functional cosmetics, their potential side effects remain a concern. This has driven the need for safer and more effective agents to treat skin disorders. This has driven the need safer and more effective agents to treat skin disorders. Therefore, the present study aimed to explore the functional properties of Cannabis sativa stem‑derived nanoparticles (CSS‑NPs) and evaluate their potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Using nanoparticle analysis, CSS‑NPs, with a mean diameter of ~120 nm exhibited notable resistance to external stress conditions, including pH fluctuation and enzymatic degradation by DNase, RNase and proteinase K. They also contained 48 distinct biochemical components. In vitro assays revealed that CSS‑NPs significantly downregulated the expression of genes and proteins associated with melanin synthesis in mouse B16F10 melanoma cells under α‑melanocyte stimulating hormone (α‑MSH)‑induced hyperpigmentation. These inhibitory effects were mediated by the activation of ERK and Akt signaling pathways. Furthermore, CSS‑NPs improved the viability of α‑MSH‑treated B16F10 cells; this was accompanied by the upregulation of antioxidant‑associated enzymes and a decrease in α‑MSH‑induced reactive oxygen species levels. Collectively, these findings suggested that CSS‑NPs carry out a key role in mitigating skin pigmentation and enhancing antioxidant defenses by modulating the ERK/Akt axis during excessive melanin synthesis. Thus, CSS‑NPs represent a promising multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with potential in treating pigmentation disorders and protecting skin cells.

Functional Properties and Components of Koenigia alpina Extract

BACKGROUND

Koenigia alpina (All.) T.M.Schust. & Reveal (alpine knotweed) is a perennial herb belonging to the Polygonaceae family. Several studies have examined Polygonaceae species' potential applications as cosmeceutical materials; however, the potential of K. alpina as a cosmeceutical has not yet been studied.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and lipopolysaccharide were used to induce an inflammatory response in RAW 264.7 cells. 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals and H2O2 were used to evaluate the free-radical scavenging activity of K. alpina extract and its protective effect against reactive oxygen species (ROS)-induced cell damage. The whitening, antiaging, and cell proliferation/migration effects of the extracts were evaluated via tyrosinase inhibition, collagenase/elastase inhibition, and wound healing assays, respectively. The anti-inflammatory effect was confirmed by evaluating nitric oxide (NO) production in RAW 264.7 cells. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), UV, and MS/MS were used to determine the main components of the extract and fractions.

RESULTS

The ethyl acetate (EA) fraction and its aglycone fraction showed very high free-radical scavenging activities (47.5 and 47.1 µg/mL, respectively). The extract/fractions also showed significant tyrosinase inhibition (IC50 = 0.38 mg/mL in EA fraction), collagenase inhibition (IC50 = 0.21 mg/mL in EA fraction), and elastase inhibition (IC50 = 0.57 mg/mL in aglycone fraction). NO production in lipopolysaccharide-induced RAW 264.7 cells was inhibited by the extract/fractions. The extract also promoted the closure of scratch wounds in HaCaT cells. The K. alpina extract/fractions contained cardamonin, quercetin, and quercitrin.

CONCLUSION

K. alpina extracts/fractions showed antioxidant, antiaging, whitening, and anti-inflammatory activities, suggesting they may have potential as antiaging cosmeceuticals.

Ethyl Acetate Fraction from a Catalpa ovata G. Don Extract Inhibits ɑ-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis through the cAMP/CREB Pathway

The whitening effect of reducing skin pigmentation is one of the most important goals of cosmetics. The purpose of this study was to determine whether Catalpa ovata extract and its fractions have potential as natural skin-lightening agents. Initially, we screened various fractions of Catalpa ovata extract using an in vitro antioxidant assay. Then, the inhibitory effects of C. ovata extract and its fraction on melanogenesis and the related mechanisms were investigated in B16F1 melanoma cells. The results showed that the ethyl acetate fraction (EF) from C. ovata extract markedly inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner at non-toxic concentrations. Furthermore, EF downregulated both the protein and mRNA levels of tyrosinase, which is a specific enzyme that catalyzes the conversion of tyrosine into melanin. We also found that EF decreased the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) at the protein and mRNA levels. EF increased the phosphorylation of ERK and suppressed the phosphorylation of JNK and p38 in ɑ-MSH-induced B16F1 cells. These results indicate that EF can regulate the MAPK pathway. In addition, EF has an anti-melanogenic effect via the downregulation of intracellular cyclic-AMP (cAMP). Nineteen major compounds of EF were identified using LC-MS/MS. Taken together, these results suggest that EF may be a potential anti-melanogenic agent for use in skin-whitening cosmetics and in topical treatments for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Anhydrous Alum Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis by Down-Regulating MITF via Dual Modulation of CREB and ERK

Melanogenesis, the intricate process of melanin synthesis, is central to skin pigmentation and photoprotection and is regulated by various signaling pathways and transcription factors. To develop potential skin-whitening agents, we used B16F1 melanoma cells to investigate the inhibitory effects of anhydrous alum on melanogenesis and its underlying molecular mechanisms. Anhydrous alum (KAl(SO4)2) with high purity (>99%), which is generated through the heat-treatment of hydrated alum (KAl(SO4)2·12H2O) at 400 °C, potentiates a significant reduction in melanin content without cytotoxicity. Anhydrous alum downregulates the master regulator of melanogenesis, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), which targets key genes involved in melanogenesis, thereby inhibiting α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis. Phosphorylation of the cAMP response element-binding protein, which acts as a co-activator of MITF gene expression, is attenuated by anhydrous alum, resulting in compromised MITF transcription. Notably, anhydrous alum promoted extracellular signal-regulated kinase phosphorylation, leading to the impaired nuclear localization of MITF. Overall, these results demonstrated the generation and mode of action of anhydrous alum in B16F1 cells, which constitutes a promising option for cosmetic or therapeutic use.

Ligularia fischeri ethanol extract: An inhibitor of alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells

BACKGROUND

Ligularia fischeri is a perennial herb isolated from plants of the Asteraceae family. Ligularia fischeri is distributed throughout Korea, Japan, eastern Siberia, and China.

AIMS

The aim of this study is to examine the intracellular inhibitory effect of Ligularia fischeri ethanol extract on melanin synthesis and expression of tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 and 2. In addition, we analyzed the mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling pathway and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells.

METHODS

To assess the inhibition of melanogenesis in alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells, the expression of melanogenesis-related genes was investigated by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction, while western blotting was performed to determine protein expression levels.

RESULTS

We confirmed that the ethanol extract of Ligularia fischeri inhibited melanin synthesis in vitro by decreasing tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 and 2 expression. Furthermore, we revealed that tyrosinase expression was regulated by the suppression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor expression and activation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase phosphorylation. The ethanol extract of Ligularia fischeri inhibited melanogenesis by activating extracellular signal-regulated kinase phosphorylation and suppressing microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase expression.

CONCLUSIONS

Ligularia fischeri ethanol extract may be used as an effective skin whitening agent in functional cosmetics.

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) and Their Constituents as Active Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. Glycyrrhiza genus, belonging to the Leguminosae family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of Glycyrrhiza extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated Glycyrrhiza spp. (G. glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with Glycyrrhiza extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries.

Ethnobotanical Survey on Skin Whitening Prescriptions of Traditional Chinese Medicine in Taiwan

The increasing interest and demand for skin whitening products globally, particularly in Asia, have necessitated rapid advances in research on skin whitening products used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM). Herein, we investigated 74 skin whitening prescriptions sold in TCM pharmacies in Taiwan. Commonly used medicinal materials were defined as those with a relative frequency of citation (RFC) > 0.2 and their characteristics were evaluated. Correlation analysis of commonly used medicinal materials was carried out to identify the core component of the medicinal materials. Of the purchased 74 skin whitening prescriptions, 36 were oral prescriptions, 37 were external prescriptions, and one prescription could be used as an oral or external prescription. After analysis, 90 traditional Chinese medicinal materials were obtained. The Apiaceae (10%; 13%) and Leguminosae (9%; 11%) were the main sources of oral and external medicinal materials, respectively. Oral skin whitening prescriptions were found to be mostly warm (46%) and sweet (53%), while external skin whitening prescriptions included cold (43%) and bitter (29%) medicinal materials. Additionally, mainly tonifying and replenishing effects of the materials were noted. Pharmacological analysis indicated that these medicinal materials may promote wound healing, treat inflammatory skin diseases, or anti-hyperpigmentation. According to the Spearman correlation analysis on interactions among medicinal materials with an RFC > 0.2 in the oral skin whitening prescriptions, Paeonia lactiflora Pall. (white) and Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz. showed the highest correlation (confidence score = 0.93), followed by Ziziphus jujuba Mill. (red) and Astragalus propinquus Schischkin (confidence score = 0.91). Seven medicinal materials in external skin whitening prescriptions with an RFC > 0.2, were classified as Taiwan qī bái sàn (an herbal preparation), including Angelica dahurica (Hoffm.) Benth. & Hook. f. ex Franch. & Sav., Wolfiporia extensa (Peck) Ginns, Bletilla striata (Thunb.) Rchb. f., Atractylodes macrocephala Koidz., Ampelopsis japonica (Thunb.) Makino, Paeonia lactiflora Pall. (white), and Bombyx mori Linnaeus. Skin whitening prescriptions included multiple traditional Chinese medicinal materials. Despite the long history of use, there is a lack of studies concerning skin whitening products, possibly due to the complex composition of traditional Chinese medicine. Further studies are required to assess the efficacy and safety of these traditional Chinese medicinal materials for inclusion in effective, safe, and functional pharmacological products.

Insights on the Inhibitory Power of Flavonoids on Tyrosinase Activity: A Survey from 2016 to 2021

Tyrosinase is a multifunctional copper-containing oxidase enzyme that initiates melanin synthesis in humans. Excessive accumulation of melanin pigments or the overexpression of tyrosinase may result in skin-related disorders such as aging spots, wrinkles, melasma, freckles, lentigo, ephelides, nevus, browning and melanoma. Nature expresses itself through the plants as a source of phytochemicals with diverse biological properties. Among these bioactive compounds, flavonoids represent a huge natural class with different categories such as flavones, flavonols, isoflavones, flavan-3-ols, flavanones and chalcones that display antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitor activities with a diversity of mechanistic approaches. In this review, we explore the role of novel or known flavonoids isolated from different plant species and their participation as tyrosinase inhibitors reported in the last five years from 2016 to 2021. We also discuss the mechanistic approaches through the different studies carried out on these compounds, including in vitro, in vivo and in silico computational research. Information was obtained from Google Scholar, PubMed, and Science Direct. We hope that the updated comprehensive data presented in this review will help researchers to develop new safe, efficacious, and effective drug or skin care products for the prevention of and/or protection against skin-aging disorders.

Salicylic acid in ginseng root alleviates skin hyperpigmentation disorders by inhibiting melanogenesis and melanosome transport

Abnormal melanogenesis and melanosome transport can cause skin pigmentation disorders that are often treated using ginseng-based formulation. We previously found that phenolic acid compounds in ginseng root could inhibit melanin production and as a skin-whitening agents. However, mechanisms of action underlying effects of ginseng phenolic acid monomers on melanogenesis remain unclear. This study was conducted to investigate effects of salicylic acid, a main ginseng root phenolic acid component, on melanogenesis and melanosome functions in melanocytes of zebrafish and other species. Salicylic acid exhibited no cytotoxicity and reduced melanin levels and tyrosinase activity in B16F10 murine melanoma cells and normal human epidermal melanocytes regardless of prior cell stimulation with α-melanocyte stimulating hormone. Additionally, salicylic acid treatment reduced expression of melanogenic enzymes tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 and tyrosinase-related protein 2, while reducing expression of their master transcriptional regulator, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor. Moreover, reduced phosphorylation of cAMP response-element binding protein was observed due to reduced cAMP levels resulting from salicylic acid inhibition of upstream signal regulators (adenylyl cyclase and protein kinase A). Furthermore, salicylic acid treatment suppressed expression of transport complex-associated proteins melanophilin and myosin Va in two UVB-treated melanocytic cell lines, suppressed phagocytosis of fluorescent microspheres by UVB-stimulated human keratinocytes (HaCaT), inhibited protease-activated receptor 2 activation by reducing both Ca²⁺ release and activation of phosphoinositide 3 kinase/AKT and mitogen-activated protein kinases and induced anti-melanogenic effects in zebrafish. Collectively, these results indicate that salicylic acid within ginseng root can inhibit melanocyte melanogenesis and melanin transport, while also suppressing keratinocyte phagocytic function.

Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol inhibits melanogenesis via protein kinase A/cAMP response element-binding protein and extracellular signal-regulated kinase-mediated microphthalmia-associated transcription factor downregulation in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone-stimulated B16F10 melanoma cells and zebrafish

Diphlorethohydroxycarmalol (DPHC) is a marine polyphenolic compound derived from brown alga Ishige okamurae. A previously study has suggested that DPHC possesses strong mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activity. However, the anti-melanogenesis effect of DPHC has not been reported at cellular level. The objective of the present study was to clarify the melanogenesis inhibitory effect of DPHC and its molecular mechanisms in murine melanoma cells (B16F10) and zebrafish model. DPHC significantly inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin content dose-dependently in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells. This polyphenolic compound also suppressed the expression of phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) by attenuating phosphorylation of cAMP-dependent protein kinase A, resulting in decreased MITF expression levels. Furthermore, DPHC downregulated MITF protein expression levels by promoting the phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase. It also inhibited tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2 in α-MSH stimulated B16F10 cells. In in vivo studies using zebrafish, DPHC also markedly inhibited melanin synthesis in a dose-dependent manner. These results demonstrate that DPHC can effectively inhibit melanogenesis in melanoma cells in vitro and in zebrafish in vivo, suggesting that DPHC could be applied in fields of pharmaceutical and cosmeceuticals as a skin-whitening agent. Significance of study: The present study showed for the first time that DPHC could inhibit a-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis via PKA/CREB and ERK pathway in melanoma cells. It also could inhibit pigmentation in vivo in a zebrafish model. This evidence suggests that DPHC has potential as a skin whitening agent. Taken together, DPHC could be considered as a novel anti-melanogenic agent to be applied in cosmetic, food, and medical industry.

Protocatechuic Aldehyde Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells via PKA/CREB-Associated MITF Downregulation

Protocatechuic aldehyde (PA) is a naturally occurring phenolic compound that is a potent inhibitor of mushroom tyrosinase. However, the molecular mechanisms of the anti-melanogenesis activity of PA have not yet been reported. The aim of the current study was to clarify the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of PA and its molecular mechanisms in murine melanoma cells (B16F10). We first predicted the 3D structure of tyrosinase and used a molecular docking algorithm to simulate binding between tyrosinase and PA. These molecular modeling studies calculated a binding energy of -527.42 kcal/mol and indicated that PA interacts with Cu400 and 401, Val283, and His263. Furthermore, PA significantly decreased α-MSH-induced intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. PA also inhibited key melanogenic proteins such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2 in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, PA decreased MITF expression levels by inhibiting phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and cAMP-dependent protein kinase A (PKA). These results demonstrate that PA can effectively suppress melanin synthesis in melanoma cells. Taken together, our results show that PA could serve as a potential inhibitor of melanogenesis, and hence could be explored as a possible skin-lightening agent.

Effect of 7-Methylsulfinylheptyl Isothiocyanate on the Inhibition of Melanogenesis in B16-F1 Cells

Skin aging, characterized by hyperpigmentation, inflammation, wrinkles, and skin cancer, is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors with synergistic effects. Autophagy maintains the homeostatic balance between the degradation, synthesis, and recycling of cellular proteins and organelles, and plays important roles in several cellular and biological processes, including aging. The compound 7-methylsulfinylheptyl isothiocyanate (7-MSI) is a sulfur-containing phytochemical produced by various plants, particularly cruciferous vegetables, with reported anti-inflammatory properties and a role in pathogen defense; however, its effects on skin whitening have not been studied in detail. The purpose of this study was to observe the effects of 7-MSI on skin whitening and autophagy in cultured murine melanoma (B16-F1) cells. Western blotting was used to evaluate the impact of 7-MSI on melanogenesis-, tyrosinase-, and autophagy-associated proteins. The levels of the melanogenesis-associated protein’s microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 were decreased by treatment with 7-MSI under melanogenesis induction. Melanin synthesis also decreased by approximately 63% after treatment with 7-MSI for 73 h, compared with that non-treated controls. In addition, autophagosome formation and the expression levels of the autophagy-related proteins mTOR, p-mTOR, Beclin-1, Atg12, and LC3 were higher in 7-MSI-treated B16-F1 cells than in non-treated cells. These results indicate that 7-MSI can inhibit melanin synthesis in B16-F1 cells by suppressing melanogenesis and autophagy activation and thus can potentially be used as a novel multifunctional cosmetic agent.

Rapid and sensitive detection of melanin using glutathione conjugated gold nanocluster based fluorescence quenching assay

In the present study, a rapid, facile, and highly sensitive assay based on glutathione conjugated gold nanocluster (GSH-AuNCs) is developed for the detection of melanin. The analysis of melanin which is linked to several diseases is crucial. The current methods for melanin estimation are complex and long, thus demands an alternative technology. In general, melanin exhibits photoactive properties, thus, it might have fluorescence quenching properties through the phenomenon of fluorescence resonance energy transfer. To verify our assumption, we have developed the fluorescence quenching assay based on gold nanocluster and melanin interaction. As a result, under the optimized condition, the developed quenching assay demonstrated the high selectivity and sensitivity toward melanin with a limit of detection and correlation coefficient of 0.060 μg/mL and 0.993, respectively. Moreover, the whole process represented the rapid assay time of 30 min to complete. To validate the performance of our assay on real samples, B16F1 cells lysate, and hair samples were tested that provided satisfactory results. Therefore, we believe that our assay due to good sensitivity and short assay time could be beneficial for the clinical diagnosis of melanin in the future study.

The pigmentation interference of bisphenol F and bisphenol A

Bisphenol A (BPA) and bisphenol F (BPF) are widely distributed in the environment and daily consumptions, leading to exposure toward human and environmental animals. The potential risk of bisphenol analogs on pigment and skin health is not well documented. In this study, we found that 0.05 mg/L BPF (tolerated daily intake (TDI) value of BPA) affected the particle size and color density of zebrafish melanin. While BPA caused less depigmentation effect toward zebrafish with effective concentration of 5.0 mg/L. The downregulation of melanin synthases induced by BPF is associated with the reduction in melanin. Molecular dynamics indicated that both BPF and BPA could act as ligands of zebrafish and human Tyr family proteins; however, these compounds have completely different energetics and spatial steric effects, potentially explaining their varying depigmentation effects. Additionally, an in vitro assay using A375 melanoma cells demonstrated that the inhibitory effect of BPF on human melanin production was primarily attributed to Tyr inhibition. These findings provide an important basis for understanding the molecular mechanisms of BPF and BPA in melanin inhibition, and the results reflect the skin pigmentation interference risk of these compounds, which are ubiquitous in everyday personal products.

Collagenase and Melanogenesis Inhibitory Effects of Perilla Frutescens Pomace Extract and Its Efficacy in Topical Cosmetic Formulations

In previous studies, Perilla frutescens pomace was shown to contain bioactive phenolic compounds and good anti-oxidative activity. However, reports about collagenase activity and melanogenesis inhibitory effects of P. frutescens pomace are limited. This study aimed to evaluate the bioactivity of P. frutescens pomace extract and incorporate the extract into a cosmetic formulation for evaluating its effects on collagenase and melanogenesis inhibition on human skin. The P. frutescens seeds after an oil pressing process were extracted with ethanol (70% v/v) in order to examine the remaining phytochemical compounds, the bioactivity in pomace perilla, and its efficacy as a skincare product. In this study, total phenolic and total flavonoid contents of P. frutescens seed extract (PFSE) were determined using spectrophotometry. The free radical scavenging activity was determined with 2, 2′-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals and 2,2′-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) ABTS radicals. Additionally, the effects on collagenase activity, melanin content, and alpha-Melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH) on the viability of cultured B16F10 melanoma cells were investigated. Skin irritation and efficacy of PFSE cream for skin elasticity and skin color were also clinically evaluated. The total phenolic content with gallic acid equivalents (GAE) value and total flavonoids content with catechin equivalents (CE) value were, respectively, 92.79 ± 1.19 and 56.02 ± 2.83 mg/g. Furthermore, PFSE significantly inhibited the collagenase activity (p < 0.001) at the concentration of 400 µg/mL (82 ± 3.23%). These results clearly demonstrated the anti-melanogenic effects on B16F10 cells without causing any cytotoxicity or death. Although there was a slight improvement in skin elasticity in the 4th week compared to the previous week, the 4th week melanin content of the skin significantly decreased from the beginning (p < 0.05) without any irritations. In conclusion, PFSE could be cosmetically considered as a key ingredient that effectively lessens the effects of skin aging and skin hyperpigmentation disorders.

Traditional Chinese Herbal Medicine for Whitening

Melanin is the chief pigment responsible for the pigmentation of human skin. Increasing evidence indicates that traditional Chinese drugs with skin-whitening effects are attracting the attention of consumers and researchers because they are perceived to be milder, safer, and healthier than synthetic alternatives. This commentary summarizes the current research on Chinese herbal medicines that inhibit melanin and their biological activities. The findings presented in this study suggest that these traditional Chinese herbal medicines might be potential candidates for novel skin-whitening agents.

A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes

BACKGROUND

High demand on anti-aging skin care encourage the improvement and development of more personalized formulations with additional benefits for general skin health and age associated skin signs. The skin aging physical and biological phenotypes manifest differently between diverse ethnic populations. A highly polluted environment can be viewed as an extrinsic factor accelerating the skin aging process.

AIM

To develop a unique formula with active complexes, having multifunctional effects for anti-pollution, brightening and anti-aging/barrier strengthening purposes with confirmed activities in vitro and ex vivo skin models, suitable for polluted skin.

METHODS

In vitro culture model with primary human skin cells, ex vivo studies with full-thickness human skin, melanocyte 3D coculture model, gene expression of epidermal and dermal genes, anti-glycation, proteasomal activity, melanin, and cytokine assays.

RESULTS

In vitro and ex vivo studies clearly demonstrated that diglucosyl gallic acid (active A) and the formulation complex inhibited pollution mediated MMP1 protein, CYP1A1 gene expression, and IL-6 protein secretion, while caprylic/capric triglyceride, diacetyl boldine (active B) had anti-melanogenic effect in in vitro primary melanocyte monoculture and 3D spheroid model. Another active compound, acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D), significantly upregulated epidermal barrier genes (Aquaporin 3 [AQP3], Filaggrin [FLG], caspase 14, and keratin 10) in human primary keratinocytes. Interestingly, both acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D) and niacinamide (active C) improved dermal gene expression (fibrillin-1, Collagen type 1 alpha 1, Decorin, Lysyl oxidase-like 1) and, moreover, had significant anti-glycant and proteasomal promoter activity in human primary fibroblasts.

CONCLUSION

Considering consumers need in heavily polluted areas, we developed a multipurpose formulation comprised of unique active complexes toward pollution, pollution induced inflammation, skin brightening, and antiaging concerns with beneficial results demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies.

Vanillic acid in Panax ginseng root extract inhibits melanogenesis in B16F10 cells via inhibition of the NO/PKG signaling pathway

Panax ginseng C. A. Meyer has been widely used in skin care. Our previous study showed that the phenolic acids in ginseng root extract (GRE) impart inhibitory effects on melanogenesis. In this study, we found that as the most abundant component of phenolic acids in GRE, vanillic acid decreased tyrosinase activity and melanin levels with or without α-MSH stimulation and suppressed the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and melanogenic enzymes in B16F10 cells. Furthermore, vanillic acid downregulated NOS activity, nitric oxide (NO) content, cGMP level, guanylate cyclase (GC) and protein kinase G (PKG) activity, and the phosphorylation of cAMP-response element-binding protein (CREB), whereas arbutin had no effect on the NO/PKG pathway. These findings indicate that vanillic acid in GRE suppressed melanogenesis by inhibiting the NO/PKG signaling pathways. This study provides a potential mechanism underlying the inhibitory effect of ginseng on melanogenesis.