Effect of cholesterol on miscibility and phase behavior in binary mixtures with synthetic ceramide 2 and octadecanoic acid. Infrared studies

The skin barrier: An extraordinary interface with an exceptional lipid organization

The barrier function of the skin is primarily located in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin. The SC is composed of dead cells with highly organized lipid lamellae in the intercellular space. As the lipid matrix forms the only continuous pathway, the lipids play an important role in the permeation of compounds through the SC. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). Analysis of the SC lipid matrix is of crucial importance in understanding the skin barrier function, not only in healthy skin, but also in inflammatory skin diseases with an impaired skin barrier. In this review we provide i) a historical overview of the steps undertaken to obtain information on the lipid composition and organization in SC of healthy skin and inflammatory skin diseases, ii) information on the role CERs, CHOL and FFAs play in the lipid phase behavior of very complex lipid model systems and how this knowledge can be used to understand the deviation in lipid phase behavior in inflammatory skin diseases, iii) knowledge on the role of both, CER subclasses and chain length distribution, on lipid organization and lipid membrane permeability in complex and simple model systems with synthetic CERs, CHOL and FFAs, iv) similarity in lipid phase behavior in SC of different species and complex model systems, and vi) future directions in modulating lipid composition that is expected to improve the skin barrier in inflammatory skin diseases.

Using molecular simulation to understand the skin barrier

Skin's effectiveness as a barrier to permeation of water and other chemicals rests almost entirely in the outermost layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of layers of corneocytes surrounded by highly organized lipid lamellae. As the only continuous path through the SC, transdermal permeation necessarily involves diffusion through these lipid layers. The role of the SC as a protective barrier is supported by its exceptional lipid composition consisting of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs) and the complete absence of phospholipids, which are present in most biological membranes. Molecular simulation, which provides molecular level detail of lipid configurations that can be connected with barrier function, has become a popular tool for studying SC lipid systems. We review this ever-increasing body of literature with the goals of (1) enabling the experimental skin community to understand, interpret and use the information generated from the simulations, (2) providing simulation experts with a solid background in the chemistry of SC lipids including the composition, structure and organization, and barrier function, and (3) presenting a state of the art picture of the field of SC lipid simulations, highlighting the difficulties and best practices for studying these systems, to encourage the generation of robust reproducible studies in the future. This review describes molecular simulation methodology and then critically examines results derived from simulations using atomistic and then coarse-grained models.

Lipid composition of the stratum corneum in different regions of the body of Kuhl's pipistrelle from the Negev Desert, Israel

The most superficial epidermal layer in endotherms is the stratum corneum (SC), which is composed of dead corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix with free fatty acids, cholesterol, ceramides, and cerebrosides; the lipid composition of the SC determines its permeability to water vapor. Lipids that are more polar, have longer hydrocarbon chains, and are less bulky are often packed in more ordered phase states to slow cutaneous evaporative water loss (CEWL); these lipids also resist transitions to more disordered phases at high ambient temperatures (T_a). In bats, wing and tail membranes (wing patagia and tail uropatagium, respectively) allow powered flight, but increase surface area, and hence CEWL, with implications for survival in arid environments. We captured Pipistrellus kuhlii from an arid habitat and measured the lipid composition of the SC of the plagiopatagium in the wing, the uropatagium, and the non-membranous region (NMR) of the body using thin layer chromatography and reversed phase high performance liquid chromatography coupled with atmospheric pressure photoionization mass spectrometry. The patagia contained more cholesterol and shorter-chained ceramides, and fewer cerebrosides than the NMR, indicating that the lipid phase transition temperature in the patagia is lower than in the NMR. Thus, at moderate T_a the lipids in the SC in all body regions will remain in an ordered phase state, allowing water conservation; but as T_a increases, the lipids in the SC of the patagia will more easily transition into a disordered phase, resulting in increased CEWL from the patagia facilitating efficient heat dissipation in hot environments.

Effects of ozone on stratum corneum lipid integrity and assembly

The stratum corneum (SC) acts as the main barrier of the skin against exogenous substances (e.g. air pollutants) and against the loss of endogenous substances such as water. The SC consists of keratin-rich dead cells surrounded by crystalline lamellar lipid regions. The main lipid classes are ceramides (CERs), free fatty acids (FFAs), and cholesterol (CHOL). Tropospheric ozone (O₃) is a potent oxidant compound that reacts instantly with biological molecules such as lipids and proteins. Although it has been reported that O₃ induces biological responses at the cellular level, to the best of our knowledge, there is no information related to the damages O₃ can cause at the level of the SC extracellular lipid matrix. The aim of our work was to investigate which SC lipid subclasses are prone to oxidation when exposed to O₃ and how the changes in chemical structures affect the lipid organization in a stratum corneum substitute (SCS) membrane. Ultimately the barrier properties of the SCS were examined. Our studies reveal that O₃ induces chemical modifications of the unsaturated bonds in CERs and CHOL. The appearance of carbonyl groups at the headgroup level and the removal of the linoleate moiety of omega acylceramides (CER EOS) impact the lamellar organization of the lipid assembly and to a lesser extent the lateral packing of the lipids. Unexpectedly, the modifications improved the barrier function of the SCS.

Very Long Chain Lipids Favor the Formation of a Homogeneous Phase in Stratum Corneum Model Membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammal epidermis, acts as a barrier dictating the rate of absorption of exogenous molecules through the skin, as well as to prevent excessive water loss from the body. The SC consists of protein-rich corneocytes embedded into a complex lipid mixture. The lipid fraction is mainly constituted of an equimolar mixture of ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol), forming a solid phase in the intracellular space; this lipid phase is supposed to play a fundamental role in the SC barrier function. An unusual characteristic of this biological membrane is that its lipids generally bear very long acyl chains, with the 24-carbon long ones being the most abundant. In this work, we used Raman microspectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy to study the influence of the acyl chain length on the lipid mixing properties in SC model membranes. Our results revealed that the combination of ceramides and FFA bearing a very long chain is required for the formation of homogeneous lipid mixtures, while lipids with shorter chains (16-carbon and 20-carbon atom long) lead to domains with micrometer dimensions. It is proposed that the biological machinery necessary for acyl chain elongation occurring at the mammalian skin level is required to inhibit lipid phase separation, a critical feature in the proper barrier functioning.

Arrangement of Ceramides in the Skin: Sphingosine Chains Localize at a Single Position in Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

Understanding the structure of the stratum corneum (SC) is essential to understand the skin barrier process. The long periodicity phase (LPP) is a unique trilayer lamellar structure located in the SC. Adjustments in the composition of the lipid matrix, as in many skin abnormalities, can have severe effects on the lipid organization and barrier function. Although the location of individual lipid subclasses has been identified, the lipid conformation at these locations remains uncertain. Contrast variation experiments via small-angle neutron diffraction were used to investigate the conformation of ceramide (CER) N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (NS) within both simplistic and porcine mimicking LPP models. To identify the lipid conformation of the twin chain CER NS, the chains were individually deuterated, and their scattering length profiles were calculated to identify their locations in the LPP unit cell. In the repeating trilayer unit of the LPP, the acyl chain of CER NS was located in the central and outer layers, while the sphingosine chain was located exclusively in the middle of the outer layers. Thus, for the CER NS with the acyl chain in the central layer, this demonstrates an extended conformation. Electron density distribution profiles identified that the lipid structure remains consistent regardless of the lipid's lateral packing phase, this may be partially due to the anchoring of the extended CER NS. The presented results provide a more detailed insight on the internal arrangement of the LPP lipids and how they are expected to be arranged in healthy skin.

State of the Art in Stratum Corneum Research. Part II: Hypothetical Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix Models

This review is the second part of a series which presents the state of the art in stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix (LM) research in depth. In this part, the various hypothetical models which were developed to describe the structure and function of the SC LM as the skin's barrier will be discussed. New as well as a cumulative assortment of older results which change the view on the different models are considered to conclude how well the different models are holding up today. As a final conclusion, a model, factoring in as much of the known data as possible, is concluded, unifying the varying different models into one which can be developed further, as new results are found in the future. So far, the model is described with a single crystalline or gel-like phase with a certain amount of nanocrystallites of concentrated ceramides (CERs) and free fatty acids and more fluid nanodomains caused by a fluidizing effect of the cholesterol. These domains are dynamically resolved and reformed and do not impair the barrier function. The chain conformation is not completely clear yet; however, an equilibrium of fully extended and hairpin-folded CERs with ratios depending on the properties of each individual CER species is proposed as most likely. An overlapping middle layer as described for the tri-layer model in part I of this series would be present for both conformations. The macroscopic broad-narrow-broad layering, observed in electron micrographs, is explained by an external templating by the lipid envelope, and an internal templating by short and long lipid chains each preferentially show a homophilic association, forming thicker and thinner bilayers, respectively. The degree of influence of the very long ω-hydroxy-CERs is discussed as well.

Probing the interactions among sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides with non- and alpha-hydroxylated acyl chains in skin lipid model membranes

Ceramides (Cers) are significant constituents of the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost skin layer responsible for skin barrier properties. Cers are a heterogeneous group of lipids whose mutual interactions are still unclear. To better understand these interactions, we characterized model membranes containing stearic acid, cholesterol, cholesterol sulfate and one or more of the following ceramides: N-stearoyl-sphingosine (CerNS), N-stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerNP) and N-(2-hydroxy)stearoyl-phytosphingosine (CerAP). Small angle X-ray scattering and FTIR spectroscopy were used to study lipid arrangement, phase separation and thermotropic behaviour. In the one-Cer systems, the membranes with CerNP showed strong hydrogen bonding and significant phase separation, even after phase transition, while the systems containing CerAP and CerNS had increased lipid miscibility. The multi-Cer systems exhibited different behaviour. In particular, the membrane containing all three Cers was a highly miscible system with narrow one-step phase transition, which, of all the studied samples, occurred at the lowest temperatures. Our results show that even a small variation in Cer structure results in substantially different phase behaviour, which is further affected by the presence of other Cer subclasses. Interestingly, the phase behaviour of the most complex three-Cer system was simpler than that of the others, highlighting the importance of lipid diversity in real SC.

Impact of the ceramide subspecies on the nanostructure of stratum corneum lipids using neutron scattering and molecular dynamics simulations. Part I: impact of CER[NS]

For this study mixtures based on the ceramides [NS] (NS = non-hydroxy-sphingosine) and [AP] (AP = α-hydroxy-phytosphingosine) in a 2:1 and 1:2 ratio, together with cholesterol and lignoceric acid, were investigated. These mixtures are modelling the uppermost skin layer, the stratum corneum. Neutron diffraction, utilizing specifically deuterated ceramide molecules, was used to obtain a maximum amount of experimental detail. Highly detailed molecular dynamics simulations were used to generate even more information from the experimental data. It was possible to observe a single lamellar phase for both systems. They had a lamellar repeat distance of 5.43 ± 0.05 nm for the [NS]/[AP] 2:1 and a slightly shorter one of 5.34 ± 0.05 nm for the 1:2 system. The structure and water content was uninfluenced by excess humidity. Both the experimental and simulation data indicated slightly tilted ceramides, with their C24 chains overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This arrangement is well comparable to systems investigated before. The structure of both systems, except for the differing repeat distance, looks similar at first. However, on a smaller scale there were various distinct differences, demonstrating only low redundancy between the different ceramide species, despite only minor chemical differences. The mainly ceramide [AP] determined 1:2 system has a slightly smaller repeat distance. This is a result of a tighter arrangement of the lipids chain along the bilayer normal and increased overlapping of the long chains in the lamellar middle. For the CER[NS] some novel features could be shown, despite it being the overall most investigated ceramide. These include the low adaptability to changed lateral interactions, leading to an increased chain opening. This effect could explain its low miscibility with other lipids. The investigated model systems allows it to directly compare results from the literature which have used ceramide [NS] to the most recent studies using the phytosphingosine ceramides such as ceramide [AP].

Investigation of a CER[NP]- and [AP]-Based Stratum Corneum Modeling Membrane System: Using Specifically Deuterated CER Together with a Neutron Diffraction Approach

Neutron diffraction was used as a tool to investigate the lamellar as well as molecular nanostructure of ceramide-[NP]/ceramide-[AP]/cholesterol/lignoceric acid model systems with a nativelike 2:1 ratio and a 1:2 ratio to study the influence of the ceramide-[AP]. By using mixtures together with cholesterol and free fatty acids as well as a humidity and temperature chamber while measuring, natural conditions were simulated as closely as possible. Despite its simplicity, the system simulated the native stratum corneum lipid matrix fairly closely, showing a similar lamellar thickness with a repeat distance of 5.45 ± 0.1 nm and a similar arrangement with overlapping long C24 chains. Furthermore, despite the very minor chemical difference between ceramide-[NP] and ceramide-[AP], which is only a single OH group, it was possible to demonstrate substantial differences between the structural influence of the two ceramides. Ceramide-[AP] could be concluded to be arranged in such a way that its C24 chain in both ratios is somehow shorter than that of ceramide-[NP], not overlapping as much with the opposite lamellar leaflet. Furthermore, in the unnatural 1:2 ratio, the higher ceramide-[AP] content causes an increased tilt of the ceramide acyl chains. This leads to even less overlapping within the lamellar midplane, whereas the repeat distance stays the same as for the ceramide-[NP]-rich system. In this nativelike 2:1 ratio, the chains are arranged mostly straight, and the long C24 chains show a broad overlapping region in the lamellar midplane.

Presence and persistence of a highly ordered lipid phase state in the avian stratum corneum

To survive high temperatures in a terrestrial environment, animals must effectively balance evaporative heat loss and water conservation. In passerine birds, cutaneous water loss (CWL) is the primary avenue of water loss at thermoneutral temperatures, and increases slightly as ambient temperature increases, indicating a change in the permeability of the skin. In the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of skin, lipids arranged in layers called lamellae serve as the primary barrier to CWL in birds. The permeability of these lamellae depends in large part on the ability of lipid molecules to pack closely together in an ordered orthorhombic phase state. However, as temperature increases, lipids of the SC become more disordered, and may pack in more permeable hexagonal or liquid crystalline phase states. In this study, we used Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy to monitor the phase state of lipids in the SC of house sparrows (Passer domesticus) at skin temperatures ranging from 25 to 50°C. As temperature increased, lipids became slightly more disordered, but remained predominantly in the orthorhombic phase, consistent with the small increase in CWL observed in house sparrows as ambient temperature increases. These results differ considerably from studies on mammalian SC, which find a predominantly hexagonal arrangement of lipids at temperatures above 37°C, and the increased order in avian SC may be explained by longer lipid chain length, scarcity of cholesterol, and the presence of cerebrosides. Our results lend further insight into the arrangement and packing of individual lipid molecules in avian SC.

Phase behavior of skin lipid mixtures: the effect of cholesterol on lipid organization

The lipid matrix in the stratum corneum (SC), the upper layer of the skin, plays a critical role in the skin barrier. The matrix consists of ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs). In human SC, these lipids form two coexisting crystalline lamellar phases with periodicities of approximately 6 and 13 nm. In the studies reported here, we investigated the effect of CHOL on lipid organization in each of these lamellar phases separately. For this purpose, we used lipid model mixtures. Our studies revealed that CHOL is imperative for the formation of each of the lamellar phases. At low CHOL levels, the formation of the lamellar phases was dramatically changed: a minimum 0.2 CHOL level in the CER/CHOL/FFA (1 : 0.2 : 1) mixture is required for the formation of each of the lamellar phases. Furthermore, CHOL enhances the formation of the highly dense orthorhombic lateral packing. The gradual increment of CHOL increases the fraction of lipids forming the very dense orthorhombic lateral packing. Therefore, these studies demonstrate that CHOL is an indispensable component of the SC lipid matrix and is of fundamental importance for appropriate dense lipid organization and thus important for the skin barrier function.

Evaluation of the Quantitative and Qualitative Alterations in the Fatty Acid Contents of the Sebum of Patients with Inflammatory Acne during Treatment with Systemic Lymecycline and/or Oral Fatty Acid Supplementation

Background. Acne is a dermatosis that involves an altered sebum pattern. Objectives. (1) To evaluate if a treatment based on antibiotics (lymecycline) can alter fatty acids contents of the sebum of patients with acne; (2) to evaluate if oral supplementation of fatty acids can interfere with fatty acids contents of the sebum of patients with acne; (3) to evaluate if there is any interaction in fatty acids contents of the sebum of patients with acne when they use both antibiotics and oral supplementation of fatty acids. Methods. Forty-five male volunteers with inflammatory acne vulgaris were treated with 300 mg of lymecycline per day, with 540 mg of γ-linolenic acid, 1,200 mg of linoleic acid, and 510 mg of oleic acid per day, or with both regimens for 90 days. Every 30 days, a sample of sebum from the forehead was collected for fatty acids' chromatographic analysis. Results. Twelve fatty acids studied exhibited some kind of pattern changes during the study: C12:0, C14:0, C15:0, C16:1, C18:0, C18:1n9c+C18:1n9t, C18:2n6t, C18:3n6, C18:3n3, C20:1, C22:0, and C24:0. Conclusions. The daily administration of lymecycline and/or specific fatty acids may slightly influence some fatty acids levels present in the sebum of patients with inflammatory acne vulgaris.

Formation of pH-sensitive cationic liposomes from a binary mixture of monoalkylated primary amine and cholesterol

It has been shown that mixtures of monoalkylated amphiphiles and sterols can form liquid-ordered (lo) lamellar phases. These bilayers can be extruded using conventional methods to obtain large unilamellar vesicles (LUVs) that have very low permeability and a specific response to a given stimulus. For example, pH variations can trigger the release from LUVs formed with palmitic acid and sterols. In the present work, the possibility to form non phospholipid liposomes with mixtures of stearylamine (SA) and cholesterol (Chol) was investigated. The phase behavior of these mixtures was characterized by differential scanning calorimetry, infrared, and (2)H NMR spectroscopy. It is found that this particular mixture can form a lo lamellar phase that is pH-sensitive as the system undergoes a transition from a lo phase to a solid state when pH is increased from 5.5 to 12. LUVs have been successfully extruded from equimolar SA/Chol mixtures. Release experiments as a function of time revealed the relatively low permeability of these systems. The fact that the stability of these liposomes is pH dependent implies that these LUVs display an interesting potential as new cationic carriers for pH-triggered release. This is the first report of non phospholipid liposomes with high sterol content combining an overall positive charge and pH-sensitivity.

Formation of fluid lamellar phase and large unilamellar vesicles with octadecyl methyl sulfoxide/cholesterol mixtures

Systems composed of a monoalkylated amphiphile and a sterol have been shown to form stable liquid-ordered (lo) lamellar phases; these include negatively charged mixtures of unprotonated palmitic acid/cholesterol (Chol) or cholesterol sulfate (Schol) and mixtures of positively charged cetylpyridinium chloride/Schol. Large unilamellar vesicles (LUVs) could be formed by these systems, using conventional extrusion methods. The passive permeability of these LUVs was drastically limited, a phenomenon associated with the high sterol content. In the present paper, we showed that octadecyl methyl sulfoxide (OMSO), a neutral monoalkylated amphiphile, can form, in the presence of cholesterol, LUVs that are stable at room temperature. Differential scanning calorimetry, infrared spectroscopy, and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy of deuterium were used to characterize the phase behavior of OMSO/Chol mixtures. A temperature-composition diagram summarizing the behavior of the OMSO/Chol system is proposed; it includes a eutectic with an OMSO/Chol molar ratio of 5/5. It is found that the fluid phase observed at temperature higher than 43 degrees C is metastable at room temperature, and this situation allows extruding these mixtures to form stable LUVs at room temperature. This distinct behavior is associated with the strong H-bond capability of the sulfoxide group. The properties associated with this neutral formulation expand the potential of these non-phospholipid liposomes for applications in several areas such as drug delivery.

Phase behavior of an equimolar mixture of N-palmitoyl-D-erythro-sphingosine, cholesterol, and palmitic acid, a mixture with optimized hydrophobic matching

The phase behavior and lipid mixing properties of an equimolar mixture of nonhydroxylated palmitoyl ceramide (Cer16), palmitic acid (PA), and cholesterol have been investigated using 2H NMR and vibrational spectroscopy. This mixture is formed by the three main classes of lipids found in the stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of the epidermis, and provides an optimized hydrophobic matching. Therefore, its behavior highlights the role played by hydrophobic matching on the phase behavior of SC lipids. We found that, below 45 degrees C, the mixture is essentially formed of coexisting crystalline domains with a small fraction of lipids (less than 20%) that forms a gel or fluid phase, likely ensuring cohesion between the solid domains. Upon heating, there is the formation of a liquid ordered phase mainly composed of PA and cholesterol, including a small fraction of Cer16. This finding is particularly highlighted by correlation vibrational microspectroscopy that indicates that domains enriched in cholesterol and PA include more disordered Cer16 than those found in the Cer16-rich domains. Solubilization of Cer16 in the fluid phase occurs progressively upon further heating, and this leads to the formation of a nonlamellar self-assembly where the motions are isotropic on the NMR time scale. It is found that the miscibility of Cer16 with cholesterol and PA is more limited than the one previously observed for ceramide III extracted from bovine brain, which is heterogeneous in chain composition and includes, in addition to Cer16, analogous ceramide with longer alkyl chains that are not hydrophobically matched with cholesterol and PA. Therefore, it is inferred that, in SC, the chain heterogeneity is a stronger criteria for lipid miscibility than chain hydrophobic matching.

Infrared spectroscopy studies of mixtures prepared with synthetic ceramides varying in head group architecture: coexistence of liquid and crystalline phases

The barrier function of the skin is provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the skin.Ceramides (CERs), cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs) are present in SC and form highly ordered crystalline lipid lamellae. These lamellae are crucial for a proper skin barrier function. In the present study,Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy was used to examine the lipid organization of mixtures prepared from synthetic CERs with CHOL and FFAs. The conformational ordering and lateral packing of these mixtures showed great similarities to the lipid organization in SC and lipid mixtures prepared with native CERs.Therefore, mixtures with synthetic CERs serve as an excellent tool for studying the effect of molecular architecture of CER subclasses on the lipid phase behavior. In SC the number of OH-groups in the head groups of CER subclasses varies. Furthermore, acylCERs with a linoleic acid chemically bound to a long acyl chain are also identified. The present study revealed that CER head group architecture affects the lateral packing and conformational ordering of the CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures. Furthermore, while the majority of the lipids form a crystalline packing, the linoleate moiety of the acylCERs participates in a "pseudo fluid" phase.

Lipid organization in human and porcine stratum corneum differs widely, while lipid mixtures with porcine ceramides model human stratum corneum lipid organization very closely

The conformational disordering and lateral packing of lipids in porcine and human isolated stratum corneum (SC) was compared using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). It was shown that SC of both species differ markedly, porcine SC lipids being arranged predominantly in a hexagonal lattice while lipids in human SC are predominantly packed in the denser orthorhombic lattice. However, the lipid organization of equimolar ceramide:cholesterol:free fatty acid (CER:CHOL:FFA) mixtures prepared with isolated porcine CER or human CER is very similar, only the transition temperatures differed being slightly lower in mixtures with porcine CER. Therefore, the difference in lateral packing between human and porcine stratum corneum is not due to the difference in CER composition. Furthermore, it is possible to use more readily available porcine CER in model lipid mixtures to mimic lipid organization in human SC. As the equimolar porcine CER:CHOL:FFA mixtures closely mimic the lipid organization in human SC, both human SC and this mixture were selected to examine the effect of glycerol on the lipid phase behaviour. It was found that high concentrations of glycerol change the lamellar organization slightly, while domains with an orthorhombic lateral packing are still observed.

Properties of ceramides and their impact on the stratum corneum structure. Part 2: stratum corneum lipid model systems

The stratum corneum (SC) represents the outermost layer of the mammalian skin, exhibits the main skin barrier and plays an important role in the water penetration pathway through the SC. Knowing the structure and properties of the SC at the molecular level is essential for studying drug penetration through the SC and for the development of new dermal drug delivery systems. Therefore, research interest is focused on the SC lipid matrix and on water diffusion through it. Thus, the ultimate aim is to design a lipid mixture that mimics the barrier properties of the human SC to a high extent and that can substitute the SC in drug delivery systems. This review summarizes various studies performed on either isolated animal or human ceramide based SC model systems, coming to the result that using synthetic lipids with a well-defined architecture allows good extrapolation to the in vivo situation. This review is the continuation of part 1 that is focused on a detailed description of the thermotropic and/or lyotropic phase behaviour of single ceramide types obtained by various experimental techniques. The objective of part 2 is to reflect the numerous studies on SC lipid model systems, namely binary, ternary and multicomponent systems, during the last decade. In this context, neutron diffraction as a prospective tool for analyzing the internal membrane structure is addressed in particular. Based on these new insights, current SC models are presented, whose validations are still under discussion. A profound knowledge about SC lipid organization at the molecular level is still missing.

Fatty acids influence "solid" phase formation in models of stratum corneum intercellular membranes

Stacked intercellular lipid membranes in the uppermost epidermal layer, the stratum corneum (SC), are responsible for skin's barrier function. These membranes are unique in composition, the major lipids being ceramides (Cer), cholesterol, and free fatty acids (FFA) in approximately equimolar proportions. Notably, SC lipids include chains much longer than those of most biological membranes. Previously we showed that Cer's small hydrophilic headgroup enabled SC model membranes composed of bovine brain ceramide (BBCer), cholesterol, and palmitic acid in equimolar proportion to solidify at pH 5.2. In order to determine the influence of FFA chain length on the phase behavior of such membranes, we used 2H NMR and FT-IR to study BBCer/cholesterol/FFA dispersions containing linear saturated FFA 14-22 carbons long. Independent of chain length, the solid phase dominated the FFA spectrum at physiological temperature. Upon heating, each dispersion underwent phase transitions to a liquid crystalline phase (only weakly evident for the membrane containing FFA-C22) and then to an isotropic phase. The phase behavior, the lipid mixing properties, and the transition temperatures are shown to depend strongly on FFA chain length. A distribution of FFA chain lengths is found in the SC and could be required for the coexistence of a proportion of solid lipids with some more fluid domains, which is known to be necessary for normal skin barrier function.

Infrared spectroscopic study of stratum corneum model membranes prepared from human ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids

The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid domains. The main lipid classes in stratum corneum are cholesterol, ceramides (CER), and free fatty acids forming two crystalline lamellar phases. However, only limited information is available on whether the various lipid classes participate in the same crystalline lattices or if separate domains are formed within the lipid lamellae. In this article infrared spectroscopic studies are reported of hydrated mixtures prepared from cholesterol, human CER, and free fatty acids. Evaluation of the methylene stretching vibrations revealed a conformational disordering starting at approximately 60 degrees C for all mixtures. Examination of the rotational ordering (scissoring and rocking vibrations) of mixtures prepared from equimolar cholesterol and CER with a variation in the level of free fatty acids showed that at lower free fatty acid content orthorhombic and hexagonal domains coexist in the lipid lamellae. Increasing the fatty acid level to an equimolar cholesterol/CER/fatty acid mixture reveals the dominant presence of an orthorhombic lattice, confirming x-ray diffraction studies. Replacing the protonated free fatty acid chains by their perdeuterated counterparts demonstrates that free fatty acids and CER participate in the same orthorhombic lattice up to a level of slightly less than 1:1:0.75 cholesterol/CER/free fatty acids molar ratio but that free fatty acids also form separate domains within the lipid lamellae at equimolar ratios at room temperature. However, no evidence for this has been observed at 32 degrees C. Extrapolating these findings to the situation in stratum corneum led us conclude that in stratum corneum, fatty acids and CER participate in the orthorhombic lattice at 32 degrees C, the skin temperature.

Ceramides and skin function

Ceramides are the major lipid constituent of lamellar sheets present in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. These lamellar sheets are thought to provide the barrier property of the epidermis. It is generally accepted that the intercellular lipid domain is composed of approximately equimolar concentrations of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides. Ceramides are a structurally heterogeneous and complex group of sphingolipids containing derivatives of sphingosine bases in amide linkage with a variety of fatty acids. Differences in chain length, type and extent of hydroxylation, saturation etc. are responsible for the heterogeneity of the epidermal sphingolipids. It is well known that ceramides play an essential role in structuring and maintaining the water permeability barrier function of the skin. In conjunction with the other stratum corneum lipids, they form ordered structures. An essential factor is the physical state of the lipid chains in the nonpolar regions of the bilayers. The stratum corneum intercellular lipid lamellae, the aliphatic chains in the ceramides and the fatty acids are mostly straight long-chain saturated compounds with a high melting point and a small polar head group. This means that at physiological temperatures, the lipid chains are mostly in a solid crystalline or gel state, which exhibits low lateral diffusional properties and is less permeable than the state of liquid crystalline membranes, which are present at higher temperatures. The link between skin disorders and changes in barrier lipid composition, especially in ceramides, is difficult to prove because of the many variables involved. However, most skin disorders that have a diminished barrier function present a decrease in total ceramide content with some differences in the ceramide pattern. Formulations containing lipids identical to those in skin and, in particular, some ceramide supplementation could improve disturbed skin conditions. Incomplete lipid mixtures yield abnormal lamellar body contents, and disorder intercellular lamellae, whereas complete lipid mixtures result in normal lamellar bodies and intercellular bilayers. The utilization of physiological lipids according to these parameters have potential as new forms of topical therapy for dermatoses. An alternative strategy to improving barrier function by topical application of the various mature lipid species is to enhance the natural lipid-synthetic capability of the epidermis through the topical delivery of lipid precursors.

Influence of the lipid composition on the organization of skin lipid model mixtures: an infrared spectroscopy investigation

The polymorphism of the lipids of the stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of the epidermis, has a fundamental impact on the permeability properties of the skin barrier. In this work, we have examined by infrared spectroscopy the thermal behavior of model mixtures involving ceramide, palmitic acid and cholesterol, the three main components of the SC lipids, to gain a refined description of the participation of the various lipid species in the different phases observed as a function of temperature. The results show that below 40 degrees C ceramide, cholesterol and palmitic acid exist mainly in crystalline domains and the lipidic species show very limited miscibility. Between 40 and 50 degrees C, a transition from the crystalline to a liquid ordered (lo) phase occurs and it involves ceramides, cholesterol and palmitic acid. When the mixture has a high cholesterol content, this lo phase is stable up to 75 degrees C. For low cholesterol content, the mixtures undergo a second transition toward a more disordered phase which is likely not lamellar. The formation of these phases is critically dependent on the lipid composition and, therefore, it is likely that composition changes of SC lipids affect the phase behavior and, consequently, the skin barrier properties.