Effects of chemical straighteners on the hair shaft and scalp: a review

Background

The effects of chemical straighteners on the scalp and hair shaft are not fully known, although such substances are widely used. Hair straightening became popular in Brazil with the use of formaldehyde and its derivatives, despite the prohibition by the current legislation.

Objective

To identify changes in hair shaft and scalp caused by the use of chemical straighteners.

Methods

A search was performed using keywords in three databases from 03/16/2020 to 05/20/2020, with publications between the years 2000 to 2020. After applying the inclusion and exclusion criteria, 33 articles were selected for review.

Results

In some studies, hair relaxers were associated with eczema, desquamation, pain, burns, and inflammation in the scalp. Hair loss, damage to the shaft, alteration in the color of the hairs and in the composition of their amino acids were observed. Findings are variable across the studies.

Study limitations

The search was restricted to three databases, in two languages, different study designs were accepted.

Conclusions

Straightening techniques can have side effects, including scalp inflammation, damage to the shaft, and hair loss. Its long-term effects remain unknown and further studies are necessary.

Effect of the multifunctional cosmetic ingredient sphinganine on hair loss in males and females with diffuse hair reduction

Sphingolipids are well known to promote keratinocyte differentiation and to induce ceramide production. In addition, they show anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activities. Thus, the aim of this study is to investigate the potential effect of sphinganine on prolonging the hair anagen rate and improving the overall hair quality and scalp health. The inhibitory potential of sphinganine toward 5-α-reductase was studied using an in vitro assay. The stimulation of the antimicrobial peptide HBD2 by sphinganine was measured by real-time polymerase chain reaction and immunostaining. Sphinganine bioavailability was studied ex vivo using a pig skin model. A placebo-controlled, double-blind study was designed to evaluate the efficacy of sphinganine on hair loss and hair/scalp quality in vivo. In vitro results showed that sphinganine is a potent inhibitor of 5-α-reductase type I that prevents the conversion of testosterone to dihydrotestosterone, a key factor of androgenetic male baldness. In vivo results demonstrated efficacy in reducing non-illness-related hair loss among males. In terms of expert rating, all hair quality and scalp parameters improved after application of sphinganine. Improved scalp health might be linked to the observed increase of the antimicrobial peptide HBD2. Thus, sphinganine is well suited as a topical alternative for the improvement of scalp health and hair quality and anti-hair loss application.

Hair care practices and structural evaluation of scalp and hair shaft parameters in African American and Caucasian women

How African American hair fragility relates to hair care practices and biologic differences between races is not well understood. To assess the differences between perceptions of hair health, hair care practices, and several biologic hair parameters between Caucasian and African American women. A questionnaire on perceptions of hair health and hair care practices was administered. Biological and structural parameters of hair shaft and scalp, including growth, density, diameter, cycle, breakage, and scalp blood flow were also assessed in this case-control study. Significant differences between the Caucasian and African American women were observed in the questionnaire and biologic study data. Regarding self-reported perceptions of hair health, there were differences in the following: hair shaft type (P < 0.001), hair breakage (P = 0.040), and desire to change hair (P = 0.001). Regarding self-reported hair care practices, there were differences in the following: location of haircutting (P = 0.002) and washing (P = 0.010), washing frequency (P < 0.001), chemical relaxer use (P < 0.001), hooded hair dryer use (P < 0.001), and hair shaft conditioner use (P = 0.005). The two groups had similar practices in regard to the use of hair color, frequency of hair color use, chemical curling agents, and handheld blow dryer use. Regarding biological and structural parameters, there were differences in the following: hair growth rate (P < 0.001), density (P = 0.0016), diameter (P = 0.01), number of broken hairs (P < 0.001), and blood flow (P = 0.03). There was no significant difference in hair cycle parameters.The differences in hair care practices and hair fiber morphology among African American women may contribute to clinically observed variation in hair fragility and growth.

Biodiesel production, characterization, engine performance, and emission characteristics of Malaysian Alexandrian laurel oil

This article studies the production and characterization of Malaysian Alexandrian laurel oil and the effect of common blends on engine performance and emissions.

African hair length in a school population: a clue to disease pathogenesis?

BACKGROUND

Anecdotal data suggest that combed natural African hair reaches a length steady state. Easier grooming and anticipated long hair have made relaxers popular.

OBJECTIVES

These hypotheses were tested in a cross-sectional survey of 1042 school children using a piloted questionnaire and hair length measurements done on four scalp regions.

RESULTS

Participants included 45% boys and 55% girls. Girls consider length important for hairstyle choice (P < 0.0001). There was no difference in mean length at 2 to 5 vs. > 5 years (P = 0.3) and at 1 to < 2 vs. 2 to 5 years (P = 0.99), suggesting that a steady state is reached within 1 year after a hair cut for combed natural hair [mean, 5.1 cm (4.3)]. Relaxed hair reached length steady state > 2 years after a haircut [mean, 10.9 cm (3.6)], was longer than natural hair (P < 0.0001), shorter than expected, and significantly shorter on the occiput than the rest of the scalp (P < 0.0001).

CONCLUSIONS

Persistently short combed natural hair years after a hair cut suggests that breakage eventually equals new growth (i.e., steady state), which is likely to be variable. Relaxed hair, irrespective of last haircut, is also short; chemical damage as a limit to potential lengths needs confirmation. Relatively short occipital relaxed hair could be a clue to disease pathogenesis.

In-situ imaging mass spectrometry analysis of melanin granules in the human hair shaft

The elemental composition of melanin granules and other components of the hair shaft was determined by multi-isotope imaging mass spectrometry, a method with unique advantages for the visualization and quantification of stable isotopes and the elemental composition in study of the fine structure of biologic samples. We mapped and quantified the chemical composition of hair cross-sections using secondary ions generated from naturally occurring 16O, 12C14N, 32S, and 34S with a maximum lateral resolution of 35 nm. Based on these elemental maps of unprecedented resolution we obtained simultaneously the chemical fingerprints and the structural features, such as cuticle, melanin granules, the macro fibrils of the cortex, and small sulfur-rich domains in the medulla, in the hair cross-section. We found an intriguing distribution of 16O, 12C14N, and 32S in melanin granules that we interpret as a highly anisotropic pattern of oxidation.