Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers

Nutrition knowledge, weight loss practices, and supplement use in senior competition climbers

Introduction

Sport climbing has gained increased scientific attention, including studies investigating the dietary habits and nutritional requirements of climbers; however, significant gaps in the literature remain. An assessment of nutritional knowledge, weight loss for competition, and supplement use has not been previously reported in senior competition climbing athletes.

Methods

Fifty climbers (26 male, 24 female; BMI 21.6 ± 1.9; 23.7 ± 5.2 years) participated in the study. Participants answered a 72-item questionnaire, comprised of demographic data and three main sections to assess general and sports nutrition knowledge, weight loss strategies, and supplement use.

Results

The mean nutrition knowledge score was 'average', with considerable individual variation (53.5 ± 11.1 %). There were no significant sex differences in the general (GNK) or sport (SNK) nutrition knowledge scores, or effect of age. Significantly higher knowledge was demonstrated by national vs. international athletes for the GNK scores (11.09 ± 1.58 vs. 9.58 ± 1.75; p = 0.028). Participants scored well in questions concerning protein, carbohydrates, alcohol, and supplements, and conversely, performed poorly in hydration and micronutrient related questions. Less than one-fifth of respondents had access to a dietitian. Forty-six percent of males and 38% of female climbers reported intentional weight loss for competition on at least one occasion. Of those, ~76% reported utilizing concerning practices, including methods that conform with disordered eating and/or eating disorders, dehydration, vomiting, and misuse of laxatives. Approximately 65% of athletes reported using at least one nutritional supplement in the previous 6 months, with 44% reporting multiple supplement use. There was no significant difference in supplement use between sexes or competition level.

Discussion

Due to the established importance of nutritional intake on athlete health and performance, educational support should be employed to improve knowledge in climbers and address shortcomings. Moreover, intentional weight loss for climbing competition is common, with most athletes achieving ~3-8% body weight loss over ≥2 weeks. It is crucial that professionals working with competitive climbers are vigilant in identifying athletes at risk of concerning weight management and establish referral pathways to the appropriate specialist services. High quality intervention trials to assess the efficacy of ergogenic aids in climbing remains inadequate.

Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVE

The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers.

METHODS

A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and advanced classes (AC) categories according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) Scale. All participants measured FS three times for both open grip (OG) and crimp grip (CG). Following FS measurement, the FR was observed immediately after the all-out training. The FC was measured twice using an inelastic tape.

RESULTS

The FS differed significantly across climbing classes for both grip styles and hands, regardless of dominant hand, with the higher classes showing greater FS (all, p ≤ 0.001). FR was significantly higher in AC compared to IC and LC at 5 min (all, p ≤ 0.001), 10 min (all, p ≤ 0.005) and 15 min (all, p ≤ 0.005). The FC showed significant differences with climbing classes for both forearms.

CONCLUSION

Climbing classes are associated with differences in FS, with higher class corresponding to greater FS. Similarly, climbing classes are linked to FR and FC, with higher classes being associated with faster recovery and larger FC.

Competitive performance predictors in speed climbing, bouldering, and lead climbing

The study modelled the influence of anthropometric components, climbing-specific power, strength and endurance parameters, flexibility, coordination, and motor planning skills on competitive climbing performance in speed, bouldering, and lead climbing. Sixty-one competitive climbers (26 women [18.1 ± 1.9y], 35 men [21.4 ± 6.1y]) participated. PCA and MRA were used for statistical analyses. Significant predictors for speed climbing performance (R2 = 44% and 35%) were lower (ß = .43 and .47) and upper body power and strength (ß = .40 and .37) for women and men, respectively. For women's bouldering performance (R2 = 39%), they were hip flexibility (ß = .42) and upper body power and strength (ß = .37), for the men's (R2 = 53%) lower (ß = .41) and upper body power (ß = .41) and body fat (ß = .37). For women's lead climbing (R2 = 58%) upper body power and strength (ß = .59) and finger endurance (ß = .48) predict performance, for the men's (R2 = 58%) lower (ß = .36) and upper body power (ß = .28), body fat (ß = .27) and motor planning skills (ß = .27). The multivariate models provide a framework for scientifically grounded climbing training by emphasizing the role of specific performance components.

Physical performance testing in climbing-A systematic review

Due to the increasing popularity of climbing, the corresponding diagnostics are gaining in importance for both science and practice. This review aims to give an overview of the quality of different diagnostic testing- and measurement methods for performance, strength, endurance, and flexibility in climbing. A systematic literature search for studies including quantitative methods and tests for measuring different forms of strength, endurance, flexibility, or performance in climbing and bouldering was conducted on PubMed and SPORT Discus. Studies and abstracts were included if they a) worked with a representative sample of human boulderers and/or climbers, b) included detailed information on at least one test, and c) were randomized-controlled-, cohort-, cross-over-, intervention-, or case studies. 156 studies were included into the review. Data regarding subject characteristics, as well as the implementation and quality of all relevant tests were extracted from the studies. Tests with similar exercises were grouped and the information on a) measured value, b) unit, c) subject characteristics (sex and ability level), and d) quality criteria (objectivity, reliability, validity) were bundled and displayed in standardized tables. In total, 63 different tests were identified, of which some comprised different ways of implementation. This clearly shows that there are no uniform or standard procedures in climbing diagnostics, for tests on strength, endurance or flexibility. Furthermore, only few studies report data on test quality and detailed information on sample characteristics. This not only makes it difficult to compare test results, but at the same time makes it impossible to give precise test recommendations. Nevertheless, this overview of the current state of research contributes to the creation of more uniform test batteries in the future.

Body Composition, Anthropometric Parameters, and Strength-Endurance Characteristics of Sport Climbers: A Systematic Review

ABSTRACT

Ginszt, M, Saito, M, Zięba, E, Majcher, P, and Kikuchi, N. Body composition, anthropometric parameters, and strength-endurance characteristics of sport climbers: a systematic review. J Strength Cond Res XX(X): 000-000, 2023-Sport climbing was selected to be part of the Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo 2021 with 3 subdisciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. The nature of physical effort while speed climbing, lead climbing, and bouldering performance is different. This literature review aimed to describe differences between body composition, anthropometric parameters, and upper-limb strength-endurance variables between sport climbers with different ability levels and nonclimbers. The following databases were searched: PubMed and Scopus. The following keywords were used: "sport climbing," "rock climbing," "lead climbing," and "bouldering." Articles were considered from January 2000 to October 2021 if they concerned at least one of the following parameters: body composition (mass, body mass index, body fat, lean muscle mass, bone mineral density), anthropometric parameters (height, ape index), muscle strength (MVC finger strength in half-crimp grip, MVC finger strength to body mass, handgrip strength), and muscle endurance (force time integral, pull-ups). A review shows that body mass and body fat content were lower in the sport climbers compared with controls and in elite sport climbers compared with those less advanced. Sport climbers presented higher values of MVC finger strength in half-crimp grip, MVC finger strength to body mass, handgrip strength, and force time integral parameter than control subjects. Significantly higher MVC values in half-crimp grip were observed in elite sport climbers than in advanced athletes. None of the analyzed work showed differences between sport climber groups in the ape index. The abovementioned parameters may be a key factor in elite sport climbing performance.

Sport-specific performances in elite youth sport climbers; gender, age, and maturity specifics

Study aim: The increase in the number of professional climbers led to the development of climbers since early age. Therefore, the average age of elite climbers has decreased over the last decade. Consequently, age and maturity specifics should be investigated with the influential factors in climbing. This research aimed to investigate the forearm muscle strength in youth sport climbers and determine the gender, age, and maturity status as factors of influence on forearm muscle performance in elite youth climbers.

Materials and methods: This research included 18 elite sport climbers (Croatian National team members), divided into two age groups: younger (aged 13–15 years) and older (aged 16–18 years). Variables included anthropometric indices (body mass, body height, body fat percentage, ape index), handgrip strength, and climbing-specific forearm strength.

Results: Climbers did not differ between age groups in the studied variables. Also, no significant correlations were found among anthropometric/body-built indices and forearm muscle performances, with age and maturity offset. However, when gender stratified, there were associations between forearm capacity in sitting position and maturity offset in girls (r = 0.73; p < 0.05) but not in boys.

Conclusion: Results could be explained by the assumption that each subsequent generation is better than the previous one. Also, the associations between performance variables and biological age in girls are probably related to girls’ earlier maturation and specificity of sports selection. Forearm muscle capacities are a crucial determinant of success in sports climbing, and a good assessment of these muscle groups could serve as a tool for sport-specific selection.

Prevalence of amenorrhea in elite female competitive climbers

Elite competitive sport climbers exhibit a high strength-to-weight ratio and are reported in the literature to be lighter and leaner than their athletic counterparts. Current research regarding nutrition among climbers is sparse but suggests that they may be at high risk for low energy availability and Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (RED-S). The prevalence of amenorrhea, one of the primary indicators of RED-S, is unknown in this athletic population. The purpose of this study was to determine the prevalence of current (previous 12 months) amenorrhea among elite level competitive sport climbers.

Methods

An anonymous online survey was distributed via email to 1,500 female climbers registered as competitors within the International Federation of Sport Climbing to assess the prevalence of amenorrhea over the past 12 months.

Results

A total of 114 female sport climbers answered all survey questions regarding menstrual function and 18 athletes (15.8%) presented with current amenorrhea. The majority of the athletes (72%; n = 82) were categorized with eumenorrhea. An additional 14 athletes (12.3%) provided information that indicated irregular cycles, but answers to all menstrual cycle questions were not congruent to elicit a classification of amenorrhea and these athletes were categorized with a menstrual status of unsure. The average BMI for climbers with eumenorrhea was 20.8 ± 1.8 kg/m2 and 19.9 ± 2.4 kg/m2 for those with amenorrhea. A higher percentage of climbers with amenorrhea revealed they currently struggle with an eating disorder compared to those without amenorrhea (13.5 vs. 22.2%, respectively).

Conclusion

This study indicates that some female climbers competing at the World Cup level do have menstrual disturbances with relatively normal BMIs and some currently struggle with one or more eating disorders. Even though World Cup competitions use BMI critical margins to screen competitors, this research highlights the need for more medical supervision of competitive elite female sport climbers in order to protect their overall health, including menstrual function. Further research is required to clarify how many climbers suffer from endocrine abnormalities related to RED-S. With more scientific evidence in this area practitioners will be better equipped to educate the athlete and coach with evidence-based nutrition recommendations.

Differences in Upper-Body Peak Force and Rate of Force Development in Male Intermediate, Advanced, and Elite Sport Climbers

The aim of this study was to investigate the difference in climbing-specific strength and rate of force development (RFD) between intermediate, advanced, and elite male sport climbers. Seventy-eight male climbers were recruited and divided into groups based on the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) numerical (1–32) grading system (intermediate (10–17) group (IG; n = 28)), advanced (18–23) group (AG; n = 30) and elite (24–27) group (EG; n = 20). Peak force (F_peak) and average force (F_avg) were measured while performing an isometric pull-up on a 23 mm thick campus rung. RFD was calculated from the onset of force to maximal peak force. The elite group performed better in all test parameters than the advanced (F_peak: 39.7%, ES = 1.40, p < 0.001; F_avg: 45.6%, ES = 4.60, p < 0.001; RFD: 74.9%, ES = 1.42, p = 0.001) and intermediate group (F_peak: 95.7%, ES = 2.54, p < 0.001, F_avg: 131.1%, ES = 5.84, p < 0.001, RFD: 154.4%, ES = 2.21, p = 0.001). Moreover, the advanced group demonstrated greater F_peak (40.1%, ES = 1.24, p < 0.001), F_avg (59.1%, ES = 1.57, p < 0.001) and RFD (45.5%, ES = 1.42, p = 0.046), than the intermediate group. Finally, climbing performance displayed strong correlations with F_peak (r = 0.73, p < 0.001) and F_avg (r = 0.77, p < 0.001), and a moderate correlation with RFD (r = 0.64, p < 0.001). In conclusion, maximal force and RFD in a climbing specific test are greater among climbers on higher performance levels. Independent of climbing level there is a moderate-to-strong association between maximal and rapid force production and climbing performance.

Toward an Anthropometric Pattern in Elite Male Handball

We investigated the anthropometric characteristics associated with specific handball skills in competition. The body anthropometric profiles differ significantly among the playing positions in handball due to the specific tasks. The aim of this study is to identify the anthropometric patterns for each playing position by collecting data from elite male handball players. To determine the anthropometric profile of the elite handball players for each playing position, we used descriptive statistics for every indicator in order to identify the optimal patterns for elite handball players from the top-four ranked teams at the most important competitions over a period of 18 years (2004-2021). Over time, the anthropometric indices evolved: the average height increased (from 190 to 192.6 cm) but less than weight increased (from 90.5 to 95.28 kg), and these affected the body mass index (increase from 25.2 to 25.67). The novelty of our study is that we identified an anthropometric pattern for each playing position and for all teams in elite male handball. Our study also covered a period of 18 years to give our results more accuracy and reliability.

Is COL1A1 Gene rs1107946 Polymorphism Associated with Sport Climbing Status and Flexibility?

The purpose of this study was to compare the frequency of COL1A1 rs1107946 polymorphism between sport climbers and controls from three ethnic groups (Japanese, Polish, and Russian) and investigate the effect of the COL1A1 rs1107946 polymorphism on the age-related decrease in flexibility in the general population. Study I consisted of 1929 healthy people (controls) and 218 climbers, including Japanese, Polish, and Russian participants. The results of the meta-analysis showed that the frequency of the AC genotype was higher in climbers than in the controls (p = 0.03). Study II involved 1093 healthy Japanese individuals (435 men and 658 women). Flexibility was assessed using a sit-and-reach test. There was a tendency towards association between sit-and-reach and the COL1A1 rs1107946 polymorphism (genotype: p = 0.034; dominant: p = 0.435; recessive: p = 0.035; over-dominant: p = 0.026). In addition, there was a higher negative correlation between sit-and-reach and age in the AA + CC genotype than in the AC genotype (AA + CC: r = −0.216, p < 0.001; AC: r = −0.089, p = 0.04; interaction p = 0.037). However, none of these results survived correction for multiple testing. Further studies are warranted to investigate the association between the COL1A1 gene variation and exercise-related phenotypes.