Soybean-fragmented proteoglycans against skin aging

Clinical Efficacy of Topical or Oral Soy Supplementation in Dermatology: A Systematic Review

Soybean, a legume native to Southeast Asia, serves many nutritional and medical purposes due to its rich source of phytochemicals and its antioxidant activity. Many animal and in vitro studies have demonstrated its potential impact on dermatologic health. The objective of this review is to investigate the clinical response of soy-based oral supplementation or topical application on dermatologic outcomes. A systematic review of studies assessing soy supplementation or application was performed in January 2023. Databases included PubMed, Embase, Cochrane, and Natural Medicines, and studies assessing any formulation that included soybean or associated products were included. Thirty studies met the inclusion criteria and are included in the review; 13 of these studies assessed oral supplementation and 17 assessed topical application. Topical and oral supplementation demonstrated efficacious results for a variety of dermatologic parameters, including chronological or photoaging parameters, skin barrier status, hydration, hyperpigmentation, dermal network composition, erythema, hair and nail parameters, acne lesion counts, and vulvar lichen sclerosis scores. Factors associated with aging, such as wrinkle area and depth, were most frequently assessed among the studies, and both topical and oral studies demonstrated efficacy. Effects are likely mediated by dermal compositional changes, such as increased collagen and/or elastic fiber numbers. Transepidermal water loss measurements, an indicator of skin barrier status, were frequently obtained among the studies, although improvement was more likely achieved with topical application compared to oral supplementation. The results of this review highlight the utility of soy-based products for a variety of dermatologic applications, although future studies are required to determine optimal formulations and application routes for intended outcomes.

High global antioxidant protection and stimulation of the collagen synthesis of new anti-aging product containing an optimized active mix

OBJECTIVE

To assess the in vitro efficacy on antioxidant potential, protection against global oxidative stress, and effect on collagen neosynthesis of minimalist formula (Peptide-C ampoules product) containing 10% natural vitamin C, rice and lupin bio-peptides, hyaluronic acid, and Vichy volcanic mineralizing water (active mix).

METHODS

In-tube quantitative tests ("in-tube screening") assessed global antioxidant properties, anti-lipid peroxidation, anti-protein glycosylation, and metalloproteinase inhibition (anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity) properties of the formula. Protection against oxidative stress was evaluated on human keratinocyte monolayer cultures, and collagen neosynthesis was quantified on fibroblast monolayer cultures treated with supernatants from product-treated reconstructed human epidermis.

RESULTS

Product (5% concentration) showed high antioxidant ability (blocking 99.0% oxidation), protection against oxidative stress damage (51.8% lipid peroxidation and 37.8% protein glycosylation decreases), and inhibition of hyaluronidase (21.9%), elastase (47.1%), and collagenase (61.8%). The protective effect was validated on human keratinocyte monolayer cultures in the presence of active mix (0.025%). Oxidative stress (ROS) was reduced by 99.0%, while global oxidative stress (RMS) induced by pollution, UVA radiation, and a combination of both factors was reduced by 48.94%, 8.7%, and 96.28%, respectively. The product increased collagen neosynthesis (11.21%) by cellular dialogue in fibroblasts incubated with product/mix-treated-RHE supernatants.

CONCLUSION

The combination of ingredients in the product showed high global antioxidant capacity, as well as a protective effect against oxidative stress induced by UVA, pollution, or both combined factors and an ability to stimulate collagen neosynthesis in in vitro studies, which support the clinical efficacy of this product.

Anti-ageing skin effects of Korean bamboo salt on SKH1 hairless mice

Bamboo salt is generated by baking bamboo and sea salt and is used as a traditional food or medicine. The aim of this study was to investigate the anti-ageing skin effects of Korean bamboo salt and to compare the antioxidant, anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory effects of various salts, including purified salt, solar salt, bath solar salt, Masada solar salt, 1-time baked bamboo salt (1× bamboo salt), and 9-times baked bamboo salt (9× bamboo salt). Based on the content of mineral elements, pH, OH groups and redox potential amperometric analysis, the 9× bamboo salt showed the most antioxidant components and characteristics compared to the other salts. The in vitro results showed that the 9× bamboo salt could inhibit oxidative damage by hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) treatment in HaCaT keratinocytes, and its effect was better than that of the other salts. In an in vivo experiment, SHK-1 hairless mice were treated with UV (ultraviolet) radiation to induce ageing. The epidermal thickness and epidermal structures were then assessed by phenotypic and histological analyses. The 0.2% 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated mice had a thinner epidermis than the control mice, and the sebaceous glands were almost intact with a regular arrangement that was similar to those in the normal group. Compared with the UV-treated group (control group) and other salt-treated groups, the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups had higher dermal collagen and elastic fibre content. Fewer mast cells were observed in the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups than in the control group. The activities of the skin antioxidant-related enzymes superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) in the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups were higher than those in other groups and similar to those in the normal group, but lipid peroxide (LPO) activity and carbonylated protein levels showed the opposite trends. Furthermore, the 9× bamboo salt- and 1× bamboo salt-treated groups had protein contents similar to those of the normal group. In addition, the 9× bamboo salt and 1× bamboo salt effectively down-regulated the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2) and matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) and up-regulated the expression of tissue inhibitor expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1), matrix metalloproteinase-2 (TIMP-2), SOD and CAT compared to the other salts at a concentration of 0.2% (p < 0.05). These results suggest that at appropriate concentrations, bamboo salt could prevent skin ageing induced by ultraviolet radiation b (UVB) photodamage.

Antiaging effects of a novel facial serum containing L-Ascorbic acid, proteoglycans, and proteoglycan-stimulating tripeptide: ex vivo skin explant studies and in vivo clinical studies in women

BACKGROUND

With age, decreasing dermal levels of proteoglycans, collagen, and elastin lead to the appearance of aged skin. Oxidation, largely driven by environmental factors, plays a central role.

AIM

The aim of this study was to assess the antiaging efficacy of a topical serum containing L-Ascorbic acid, soluble proteoglycans, low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, and a tripeptide in ex vivo and in vivo clinical studies.

METHODS

Photoaging and photo-oxidative damage were induced in human skin explants by artificial solar radiation. Markers of oxidative stress - reactive oxygen species (ROS), total glutathione (GSH), and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) - were measured in serum-treated explants and untreated controls. Chronological aging was simulated using hydrocortisone. In both ex vivo studies, collagen, elastin, and proteoglycans were determined as measures of dermal matrix degradation. In women aged 21-67 years, hydration was measured up to 24 hours after a single application of serum, using Corneometer and hygrometer. Subjects' perceptions of efficacy and acceptability were assessed via questionnaire after once-daily serum application for 4 weeks. Studies were performed under the supervision of a dermatologist.

RESULTS

In the photoaging study, irradiation induced changes in ROS, CPD, GSH, collagen, and elastin levels; these changes were reversed by topical serum application. The serum also protected against hydrocortisone-induced reduction in collagen, elastin, and proteoglycan levels, which were significantly higher in the serum-treated group vs untreated hydrocortisone-control explants. In clinical studies, serum application significantly increased skin moisture for 6 hours. Healthy volunteers perceived the product as efficient in making the skin brighter, more hydrated, and decreasing wrinkles and wished to continue using it. The serum was well tolerated and noncomedogenic.

CONCLUSION

The serum protected against oxidative damage and dermal protein loss caused by photo- and chronological aging in human skin explants. In-vivo, the serum hydrated skin for 6 hours, and users perceived increased skin brightness, hydration, and fewer wrinkles.