The finger flexors occlusion threshold in sport-climbers: an exploratory study on its indirect approximation

Recovery markers in elite climbers after the national boulder climbing championship

This study aimed to investigate recovery markers among elite climbers following the National Boulder Championship. We assessed maximum isometric hand grip strength (HS), forearm swelling (circumference), delayed soreness in forearm muscles, tiredness, and exercise readiness at several time points: pre-competition, immediately post-competition (within 4 min after their last effort), and 12, 24, 48, and 60 h post-competition. Maximum isometric hand grip strength decreased by 6.38 ± 1.32% (p = 0.006) post-12 h, returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm circumference (FC) increased 1.78 ± 1.77% (p < 0.001) post-competition, returning to pre-competition values post-12 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm pain (FP) increased post-competition (p = 0.002) and post-12 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Tiredness increased post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), and post-24 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-48 h (all p > 0.05). Climbing readiness was reduced post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), post-24 h (p < 0.001), and post-48 h (p = 0.005), only returning to pre-competition values post-60 h (p = 0.189). Visual analysis of individual data pointed out a relatively small variability in the HS and FC markers, while FP, tiredness, and readiness exhibited larger individual variations. These findings indicate that different recovery patterns exist for the analyzed markers, suggesting that athletes may require up to 60 h after a competition to fully recover and regain their ability to face new competitive challenges.

Reliability and Validity of Functional Grip Strength Measures Across Holds and Body Positions in Climbers: Associations With Skill and Climbing Performance

Purpose: In climbing, exceptional levels of fingertip strength across different holds and body positions are considered essential for performance. There is no commonly agreed upon way to measure such "grip strength variability." Furthermore, the accurate and reliable monitoring of strength is necessary to achieve safe, progressive improvement in strength. Therefore, this study aimed to develop reliability and criterion validity for assessment of grip strength across multiple holds and body positions. Methods: Twenty-two advanced toelite climbers (age = 28.5 ± 8.6 years) performed maximal voluntary isometric contractions on two occasions (for test-retest reliability). Conditions included two hold types (edge and sloper) tested in two postures (elbow flexion [90°] and self-preferred). Climbing performance was determined on two "difficulty" routes (difficulty increases with each hold): one route composed of only edges and another only of slopers. Results: Test-retest reliability was high (ICC between 0.94-0.99). Significant positive correlations were observed for the forces produced on the sloper test and climbing distance on the sloper route (r = 0.512,p < .05), and for the forces produced on the edge test and climbing distance on the edge route (ρ = 0.579, p < .01). Conclusion: These findings support reliability and validity of the method used to measure grip strength variability with different holds and body positions and suggest that improving strength across different grasping types supports adaptive climbing performance.

Muscle oxygenation and time to task failure of submaximal holding and pulling isometric muscle actions and influence of intermittent voluntary muscle twitches

Background

Isometric muscle actions can be performed either by initiating the action, e.g., pulling on an immovable resistance (PIMA), or by reacting to an external load, e.g., holding a weight (HIMA). In the present study, it was mainly examined if these modalities could be differentiated by oxygenation variables as well as by time to task failure (TTF). Furthermore, it was analyzed if variables are changed by intermittent voluntary muscle twitches during weight holding (Twitch). It was assumed that twitches during a weight holding task change the character of the isometric muscle action from reacting (≙ HIMA) to acting (≙ PIMA).

Methods

Twelve subjects (two drop outs) randomly performed two tasks (HIMA vs. PIMA or HIMA vs. Twitch, n = 5 each) with the elbow flexors at 60% of maximal torque maintained until muscle failure with each arm. Local capillary venous oxygen saturation (SvO₂) and relative hemoglobin amount (rHb) were measured by light spectrometry.

Results

Within subjects, no significant differences were found between tasks regarding the behavior of SvO₂ and rHb, the slope and extent of deoxygenation (max. SvO₂ decrease), SvO₂ level at global rHb minimum, and time to SvO₂ steady states. The TTF was significantly longer during Twitch and PIMA (incl. Twitch) compared to HIMA (p = 0.043 and 0.047, respectively). There was no substantial correlation between TTF and maximal deoxygenation independently of the task (r = − 0.13).

Conclusions

HIMA and PIMA seem to have a similar microvascular oxygen and blood supply. The supply might be sufficient, which is expressed by homeostatic steady states of SvO₂ in all trials and increases in rHb in most of the trials. Intermittent voluntary muscle twitches might not serve as a further support but extend the TTF. A changed neuromuscular control is discussed as possible explanation.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1186/s13102-022-00447-9.