Recovery markers in elite climbers after the national boulder climbing championship

This study aimed to investigate recovery markers among elite climbers following the National Boulder Championship. We assessed maximum isometric hand grip strength (HS), forearm swelling (circumference), delayed soreness in forearm muscles, tiredness, and exercise readiness at several time points: pre-competition, immediately post-competition (within 4 min after their last effort), and 12, 24, 48, and 60 h post-competition. Maximum isometric hand grip strength decreased by 6.38 ± 1.32% (p = 0.006) post-12 h, returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm circumference (FC) increased 1.78 ± 1.77% (p < 0.001) post-competition, returning to pre-competition values post-12 h (all p > 0.05). Forearm pain (FP) increased post-competition (p = 0.002) and post-12 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-24 h (all p > 0.05). Tiredness increased post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), and post-24 h (p < 0.001), returning to pre-competition values post-48 h (all p > 0.05). Climbing readiness was reduced post-competition (p < 0.001), post-12 h (p < 0.001), post-24 h (p < 0.001), and post-48 h (p = 0.005), only returning to pre-competition values post-60 h (p = 0.189). Visual analysis of individual data pointed out a relatively small variability in the HS and FC markers, while FP, tiredness, and readiness exhibited larger individual variations. These findings indicate that different recovery patterns exist for the analyzed markers, suggesting that athletes may require up to 60 h after a competition to fully recover and regain their ability to face new competitive challenges.

Impact of Equation Choice on Resting Metabolic Rate Ratio in High-Level Men and Women Athletes

Objective: To examine the impact of the RMR ratio cutoff point selected on the categorization of prevalence/absence of low energy availability among predictive equations in high-level athletes (n = 241 [99 women]; 52% competed at the World Championship and Olympic Games), and whether this categorization is influenced by sex and the predictive equation used.Methods: We assessed RMR using indirect calorimetry, predicted the RMR using the equations proposed by Harris-Benedict, FAO/WHO/UNU, de Lorenzo, ten Haaf and Wejis, Wong, Jagim, Cunningham, and Freire, and computed the RMR ratio for each equation.Results: We observed that the cumulative percentage of RMR ratio values increased at a faster rate using Jagim, ten Haaf and Wejis, and Cunningham equations compared to the other equations. At the 0.90 value (the most used cutoff point in literature), the Jagim equation categorized ≥ 50% of the athletes into "low energy availability". No Sex × Equation × Sport interaction effect was observed (F = 0.10, p = 1.0). There was a significant main effect to Sex (F = 11.7, p < 0.001, ES = 0.05), Sport (F = 16.4, p < 0.001, ES = 0.01), and Equation (F = 64.1, p < 0.001, ES = 0.19). Wong and FAO/WHO/UNU equations yielded the largest errors (assessed vs. predicted RMR) in men and women, respectively.Conclusion: The selected RMR ratio cutoff point influences the prevalence/absence of low energy availability characterization in high-level athletes and suggests that certain equations could bias its assessment.

Effect of gas exchange data selection methods on resting metabolic rate estimation in young athletes

This cross-sectional study analysed the effect of the gas exchange data selection methods on the resting metabolic rate (RMR) estimation and proposed a protocol shortening providing a suitable RMR estimation for young athletes. Sixty-six healthy young Brazilian athletes performed a 30-minute RMR assessment. Different methods of gas exchange data selection were applied: short and long-time intervals, steady-state (SSt), and filtering. A mixed one-way ANOVA was used to analyse the mean differences in gas exchange, RMR, respiratory exchange ratio (RER), and coefficients of variation across all methods. Additionally, paired Student's t-test were used to compare the first and best SSt RMR values for each SSt method (3, 4, and 5-min). The 5-min SSt method provided the lowest RMR estimate (1454 kcal.day-1). There was a statistical difference between methods (F = 2.607, p = 0.04), but they presented a clinically irrelevant absolute difference (~36 kcal.day-1). There were no differences in RER among methods. In addition, using the SSt method, 12 minutes of assessment were enough to obtain a valid estimation of RMR. The 5-min SSt method should be employed for assessing the RMR among young athletes, considering the possibility of obtaining a shortened assessment (~12 min) with an acceptable and low coefficient of variation.

New Predictive Resting Metabolic Rate Equations for High-Level Athletes: A Cross-Validation Study

PURPOSE

The present study aims a) to assess the agreement between the measured resting metabolic rate (RMR) using indirect calorimetry and different predictive equations (predicted RMR), and b) to propose and cross-validate two new predictive equations for estimating the RMR in high-level athletes.

METHODS

The RMR of 102 athletes (44 women) was assessed using indirect calorimetry, whereas the body composition was assessed using skinfolds. Comparisons between measured and predicted RMR values were performed using one-way ANOVA. Mean difference, root mean square error (RMSE), simple linear regression, and Bland-Altman plots were used to evaluate the agreement between measured and predicted RMR. The accuracy of predictive equations was analyzed using narrower and wider accuracy limits (±5% and ±10%, respectively) of measured RMR. Multiple linear regression models were employed to develop the new predictive equations based on traditional predictors (equation 1) and the stepwise method (equation 2).

RESULTS

The new equations 1 and 2 presented good agreement based on the mean difference (3 and -15 kcal·d -1 ), RMSE (200 and 192 kcal·d -1 ), and R2 (0.71 and 0.74), respectively, and accuracy (61% of subjects between the limit of ±10% of measured RMR). Cunningham's equation provided the best performance for males and females among the existing equations, whereas Jagim's equation showed the worst performance for males (mean difference = -335 kcal·d -1 ; RMSE = 386 kcal·d -1 ). Compared with measured RMR, most predictive equations showed heteroscedastic distribution (linear regression's intercept and slope significantly different from zero; P ≤ 0.05), mainly in males.

CONCLUSIONS

The new proposed equations can estimate the RMR in high-level athletes accurately. Cunningham's equation is a good option from existing equations, and Jagim's equation should not be used in high-level male athletes.

New Predictive Resting Metabolic Rate Equations for High-Level Athletes: A Cross-validation Study

PURPOSE

The present study aims a) to assess the agreement between the measured resting metabolic rate (RMR) using indirect calorimetry and different predictive equations (predicted RMR), and b) to propose and cross-validate two new predictive equations for estimating the RMR in high-level athletes.

METHODS

The RMR of 102 athletes (44 women) was assessed using indirect calorimetry, while the body composition was assessed using skinfolds. Comparisons between measured and predicted RMR values were performed using one-way ANOVA. Mean difference, Root Mean Square Error, Simple Linear Regression, and Bland-Altman plots were used to evaluate the agreement between measured and predicted RMR. The accuracy of predictive equations was analyzed using narrower and wider accuracy limits (±5% and ± 10%, respectively) of measured RMR. Multiple linear regressions models were employed to develop the new predictive equations based on traditional predictors (Equation 1) and the stepwise method (Equation 2).

RESULTS

The new Equations 1 and 2 presented good agreement based on the mean difference (3 and -15 kcal.d-1), RMSE (200 and 192 kcal.d-1), and R2 (0.71 and 0.74), respectively, and accuracy (61% of subjects between the limit of ±10% of measured RMR). Cunningham's equation provided the best performance for males and females among the existing equations, whereas Harris & Benedict's equation showed the worst performance for males (mean difference = 406 kcal.d-1; RMSE = 473 kcal.d-1). Compared to measured RMR, most predictive equations showed heteroscedastic distribution (linear regression's intercept and slope significantly different from zero; p ≤ 0.05), mainly in males.

CONCLUSIONS

The new proposed equations can estimate the RMR in high-level athletes accurately. Cunningham's equation is a good option from existing equations, and Harris & Benedict's equation should not be used in high-level male athletes.

Maximal and Submaximal Cardiorespiratory Responses to a Novel Graded Karate Test

The present study aimed to propose and assess the physiological responses of a novel graded karate test. Ten male national-level karate athletes (age 26 ± 5 yrs; body mass 69.5 ± 11.6 kg; height 1.70 ± 0.09 m) performed two exercise tests (separated by 2-7 days): 1) a running-based cardiopulmonary exercise test; 2) a graded karate test. The cardiopulmonary exercise test was comprised of an individualized ramp protocol for treadmill running, and the graded karate test was comprised of a sequence of 'kisami-gyaku-zuki" punching at a fixed frequency of a stationary target that becomes progressively distant. Cardiorespiratory responses, blood lactate concentration, and perceived exertion were measured. A verification phase was also performed in both tests to confirm the maximal physiological outcomes. The graded karate test evoked similar maximal responses to the running protocol: V̇O₂ (57.4 ± 5.1 vs 58.3 ± 3.5 mL·kg^-1·min^-1; p = 0.53), heart rate (192 ± 6 vs 193 ± 10]beats.min^-1; p = 0.62) and blood lactate (14.6 ± 3.4 vs 13.1 ± 3.0 mmol·L^-1; p = 0.14) with a shorter duration (351 ± 71 vs 640 ± 9 s; p < 0.001). Additionally, the graded karate test evoked higher V̇O₂ (72.6 ± 6.5 vs 64.4 ± 4.3 %V̇O_2MAX; p = 0.005) and heart rate (89.4 ± 4.6 vs 77.3 ± 7.2 %HR_MAX p < 0.001) at the ventilatory threshold and a higher heart rate (97.0 ± 2.4 vs 92.9 ± 2.2 %HR_MAX; p = 0.02) at the respiratory compensation point. Incremental and verification phases evoked similar responses in V̇O₂ and minute-ventilation during both tests. This novel displacement-based sport-specific test evoked similar maximal and higher submaximal responses, indicating a superior pathway to assess karate athletes.

COVID-19 AND ITS EFFECT ON OLYMPIC SPORT: THE IMPORTANCE OF STUDYING SOCIAL ISOLATION AND THE HARM IT CAUSES, IN ORDER TO MINIMIZE IT

ABSTRACT In March 2020, the World Health Organization (WHO) declared the disease caused by the SARS-CoV2 virus, known as COVID-19, to be a pandemic. The sporting world, too, is suffering from the global effects of this disease, with the postponement or cancellation of competitions, including the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games. As a proposal for containing the disease, social isolation was declared. Despite the importance of this measure, it was harmful for Olympic athletes, as they had to stay away from their training site and trainers, as well as their interdisciplinary teams. It is therefore important to study this harm caused, in order to minimize it. In general, it is believed that regular physical activity is associated with improved immune system functioning. The lack of training can therefore have significant consequences for the performance and health of the Olympic athlete. From the athlete's point of view, the impaired immune system, due to the reduced frequency of physical exercise, leaves them more vulnerable to contracting or developing infections or other diseases. The risk of harm due to the decreased performance of preventive works is also evident in this population. The reductions in training load and intensity can cause changes in the athlete's body composition and affect various aspects of cardiorespiratory fitness, as well as reducing strength levels and muscle potency. In relation to the athlete's mental health, two aspects are particularly challenging: isolation and uncertainty. Based on the possible harm caused by social isolation, the need is seen for a specific and joint work, in an attempt to minimize it. This work addresses the following topics: (I) context: transmission, symptoms, diagnosis, treatment, discharge criteria, isolation and post-pandemic consequences; (II) harm and proposals: nutritional, physiological, biomechanical and psychological. Level of evidence II; Review Article.